Glorieta and Canoncito, New Mexico on the Santa Fe Trail

The landscape between Glorieta and Santa Fe, New Mexico, unfolds across approximately 15 miles, a journey that traverses the historic Glorieta Pass, leading to the near-ghost town of Glorieta and the site of the former village of Canoncito in Apache Canyon. This ancient corridor is steeped in history, having served as a vital artery for various routes, including a Spanish mission trail connecting to the Pecos Pueblo, a crucial segment of the Santa Fe Trail, the early National Old Trails Road, and even a portion of pre-1937 Route 66. Today, much of this route is traced by U.S. Highway 84 and Interstate 25, modern testaments to the enduring significance of this passage through the New Mexican terrain.

A Crossroads of Cultures and Commerce

Glorieta Pass, nestled at the southern edge of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in east-central Santa Fe County, lies beneath the imposing 10,000-foot Glorieta Baldy Peak. The name "Glorieta," meaning "bower" or "forested crossroads," was bestowed upon the southern terminus of the Rocky Mountains by early Spanish settlers, reflecting its nature as a natural meeting point.

Long before the arrival of European settlers, the pass served as a crucial thoroughfare for Pueblo and Plains Indians, who utilized it for trade, migration, and seasonal movement. The Spanish and, later, Mexican settlers and traders continued this tradition, solidifying the pass’s importance as a conduit for goods and people. By 1821, when the Santa Fe Trail officially opened, the pass was already a well-established route. This section became the westernmost leg of the Santa Fe Trail, connecting Independence, Missouri, with Santa Fe, New Mexico. Wagon trains, laden with merchandise and carrying hopeful settlers, frequently paused at Pigeon’s Ranch, a prominent hostelry and stage stop situated on the eastern side of the pass. Here, travelers could rest, resupply, and prepare for the arduous climb to the summit. Pigeon’s Ranch also marked the establishment of the first Glorieta post office in January 1875, further solidifying its role as a community hub. The Santa Fe Trail served as a lifeline for the region, facilitating trade and cultural exchange between the eastern United States and the Southwest.

The Echoes of Conflict: The Battle of Glorieta Pass

The tranquility of Glorieta Pass was shattered in March 1862 when it became the site of a pivotal Civil War battle. The three-day Battle of Glorieta Pass, fought between March 26th and 28th, unfolded across the rugged terrain. The initial skirmishes erupted in Apache Canyon, located on the western side of the pass, on March 26th. However, the decisive engagement took place two days later, east of the pass at Pigeon’s Ranch. The Union Army, largely composed of the Colorado Militia, secured a significant victory, thwarting the Confederate Army’s ambitious plan to advance into Colorado, seize the goldfields, and subsequently turn westward to capture California. This battle, often referred to as the "Gettysburg of the West," effectively ended Confederate ambitions in the Southwest. Today, the Civil War’s westernmost battle is commemorated at Pecos National Historic Park, located on the eastern side of the pass, allowing visitors to explore the historical significance of this important site.

Glorieta: From Railroad Town to Religious Retreat

In 1879, the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad extended its tracks through the area, giving rise to the town of Glorieta. The settlement thrived as a supply center for railroad workers and the burgeoning mining and lumbering industries in the region. By 1884, a significant portion of the town’s population of around 250 was employed by four sawmills and the Silver Lode Mining Company. The town boasted amenities such as the Glorieta House Hotel, two general stores, and two saloons. Within five years, it gained recognition as a base for sportsmen seeking access to the hunting and fishing opportunities along the upper Pecos River.

During the early 20th century, several small-scale mining operations were active in the Glorieta Mining District. Approximately 2,500 tons of iron ore were extracted from the Kennedy Mine, situated in the southern part of the district. Other mines, including the Bradley Mine, operated by a solitary miner who discovered gold, silver, copper, and lead, contributed to the local economy. While some ores were extracted, the district was not considered to be a region of significant importance.

After World War II, Glorieta underwent a transformation with the establishment of the Glorieta Baptist Assembly as its western leadership center. Construction of the facilities commenced in 1950, with an investment of approximately five million dollars over the next decade. The Conference Center opened in 1952. In 2014, the Conference Center was sold to a Texas-based non-profit organization. Following the sale, numerous modifications were made, including the construction of a zip line, slides, diving boards, and decks around the property’s lake. Today, it continues to operate as a religious camp, offering retreats, wilderness programs, and conferences for children, adults, and families.

Even before the construction of the Conference Center, Glorieta’s population had already begun to decline. By 1975, the town still maintained a small mercantile store, a gift shop, a restaurant, and the Rio Grande Press, which occupied the former school building.

Currently, none of these businesses remain in Glorieta. The sole operating service in the small community, which is comprised of a cluster of homes, is the post office, located in the town’s old depot. The railroad, now part of the Burlington Northern and Santa Fe Railway system, continues to pass through the village alongside the post office.

Following I-25 for 5.5 miles leads to the former village of Canoncito in Apache Canyon.

Canoncito and the Johnson Ranch: A Crossroads of History

Canoncito at Apache Canyon was a modest community with roots tracing back to the Mexican Territorial period. Canoncito served as a trading post and the final stop for travelers on the Santa Fe Trail before reaching Santa Fe. The site where the village church was later erected became a gathering place for public meetings, trading, and community events.

In August 1846, during the Mexican-American War, Governor Manuel Armijo assembled his Mexican troops at Apache Canyon to defend New Mexico against the approaching American Army. Although Governor Manuel Armijo was reluctant to engage in battle, influential leaders of the time pressured him to mount a defense. However, before General Stephen W. Kearny and his 1,700 troops of the Army of the West were within sight, he opted not to fight. When some militiamen insisted on fighting, Armijo ordered a cannon to point at them. The New Mexican army then retreated to Santa Fe, and Armijo fled to Chihuahua, Mexico. By the time Kearny and his men arrived in Santa Fe, they had encountered no Mexican forces and had claimed the New Mexico Territory for the United States without a shot being fired.

The village of Canoncito was settled by 1855, and in 1858, Anthony Johnson acquired land for a ranch and constructed an adobe and rock residence at the mouth of Apache Canyon. Johnson’s Ranch became a favored stop for stagecoaches along the final leg of the trail before entering Santa Fe. Johnson, originally from St. Louis, Missouri, had traveled west along the Santa Fe Trail in the late 1840s. He was employed as a teamster at Fort Union for a period. Johnson and his family resided there until 1869 when he sold the ranch. A decade later, he was found murdered.

In March 1862, the Civil War Battle of Glorieta Pass commenced in nearby Apache Canyon on March 26 before moving east. As the battle progressed, Major John Chivington and a contingent of Union troops destroyed the Confederate supply train, which was encamped near Johnson’s Ranch. This strategic maneuver forced the Confederates to relinquish their stronghold and retreat from New Mexico.

From 1879 to 1880, the village operated a post office. In the same year that the post office closed, the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad entered the area, effectively ending trade on the Santa Fe Trail and diminishing Canoncito’s importance. The Our Lady of Light Catholic Church was constructed between 1880 and 1891. The one-story adobe structure was built into a slope on the side of Apache Canyon. In the late 1800s, a trading post-general mercantile was built across from the church. In the 1950s, the owner of Johnson’s Ranch leveled most of the buildings located just east of the church in Cañoncito.

Canoncito did not experience significant growth. Today, only its church and cemetery, which have served the area for over a century, remain. The church was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1995.

The church and cemetery are accessible from Exit 294 on I-25, Sleeping Dog Road. Travel north to Old Las Vegas Highway, and take a right (northeast) to the church and cemetery.

Continue the journey along the old Santa Fe Trail and Route 66 by traveling I-25 for 11.7 miles to its junction with U.S. Highway 285 and north for 3.8 miles to West Alameda Street to reach downtown.

See Also:

• Battle of Glorieta Pass
• New Mexico Route 66
• Route 66 Pre-1937 Alignment in New Mexico
• Pecos National Historic Park
• Santa Fe Trail in New Mexico

Sources:

• National Park Service
• New Mexico Archaeology
• New Mexico Geological Society
• Sherman, James, and Barbara; Ghost Towns and Mining Camps of New Mexico, University of Oklahoma Press, 1975
• Wikipedia