Hot Springs, Arkansas – Home of Healing Waters – Legends of America
Nestled amidst the verdant peaks of the Central Ouachita Mountains, along the gentle curves of the Ouachita River, lies Hot Springs, Arkansas. This city, the county seat of Garland County, is a place where history, nature, and healing converge. Its claim to fame, and indeed its very name, comes from the abundance of naturally heated thermal waters that bubble up from the earth. These waters, emerging from 47 distinct springs on the western slope of Hot Springs Mountain, have captivated imaginations and drawn visitors for centuries. With a consistent temperature of 147 degrees Fahrenheit, they have long been revered for their purported medicinal properties, becoming the subject of captivating legends among various Native American tribes.
A Legacy of Indigenous Heritage
The story of Hot Springs begins long before European settlers arrived. Archaeological evidence suggests that Native Americans inhabited the area as early as 12,000 B.C., during the Paleo-Indian era. These early inhabitants quarried stone for tools and spear points, leaving behind traces of their presence for archaeologists to uncover. While definitive documentation is scarce, it is highly probable that these indigenous peoples recognized and utilized the soothing waters of the thermal springs.
The earliest written account of Native American use of the springs dates back to 1771. Jean-Bernard Bossu, a French navy captain and explorer, while staying with the Quapaw Indians, recorded that "the Akanças country is visited very often by western Indians who come here to take baths," noting that the hot waters "are highly esteemed by native physicians who claim that they are so strengthening."
Beyond the Quapaw, it is believed that other tribes, potentially related to the historic Caddo Indians, also frequented the area. Local lore speaks of the thermal springs as a neutral ground, a place where warring tribes could temporarily set aside their conflicts and coexist in peace, drawn together by the promise of healing and rejuvenation.
Exploration and Early Settlement
The first European exploration of the area occurred in 1673 when Father Jacques Marquette and fur trader Louis Jolliet claimed the territory for France. Control of the land shifted hands several times, passing to Spain in 1763 and then back to France in 1800, before finally becoming part of the United States through the Louisiana Purchase in 1803.
Recognizing the potential of this newly acquired territory, President Thomas Jefferson dispatched several expeditions to explore its wonders. Among these was the renowned Lewis & Clark Expedition, which charted the Pacific Northwest. Another, the Hunter-Dunbar Expedition, was specifically tasked with investigating "the hot springs" and the "Washita" River in present-day Arkansas and Louisiana.
In December 1804, Dr. George Hunter and William Dunbar embarked on their journey up the Ouachita River. Their four-week study of the hot springs revealed a landscape already attracting visitors seeking relief from various ailments. They encountered a lone log cabin and rudimentary shelters, evidence of early pilgrims drawn to the springs’ therapeutic allure.
The first permanent settler of Hot Springs was Emmanuel Prudhomme, a Louisiana planter, who established himself in the village in 1807. Others soon followed, drawn by the promise of opportunity and the growing reputation of the thermal springs.
Early Bathing Accommodations
The early days of Hot Springs were marked by rustic conditions. A visitor’s account from the early 1800s paints a vivid picture: "The accommodations for using the water are so entirely deficient that it would not be wonderful if but little was affected by them. The sweat house is rudely constructed with boards, which partially exclude the air, and a blanket stops the mouth of it. The patient has to come into the open air to dry himself, hurry on his clothes, and go home."
Despite the primitive facilities, the springs continued to attract visitors. On August 24, 1818, the Quapaw Indians formally ceded the land around the hot springs to the United States. In 1819, Arkansas became its own territory, and the following year, the Arkansas Territorial Legislature requested that the springs and surrounding mountains be designated as a federal reservation.
The Rise of Bathhouse Row
The early 1830s marked a turning point for Hot Springs. Recognizing the area’s unique value, Congress reserved the land for federal use in 1832, exempting it from settlement and ensuring the protection of the thermal waters. However, this did not entirely deter private construction near the springs.
The first bathhouses were rudimentary structures of canvas and lumber, little more than tents erected over individual springs or reservoirs carved into the rock. By the 1850s, wooden-framed bathhouses began to appear, replacing the crude huts and operating well into the late 19th century. These bathhouses employed wooden troughs to transport water from the springs to tanks, allowing bathers to adjust the temperature by manipulating ropes that controlled the flow of hot and cold water. A typical bathing experience involved a visit to a vapor room (a chamber situated over a thermal spring with cracks in the floor to allow steam to rise), followed by a cold-water dousing before dressing.
Civil War and Post-War Growth
Hot Springs was incorporated in 1851, boasting two rows of hotels, several bathhouses, and various businesses. The city attracted a diverse clientele, including leisure seekers and invalids hoping to find relief in the mineral-rich springs.
During the Civil War, Hot Springs served as the state capital for a brief period in 1862 when the Arkansas governor, fearing the capture of Little Rock by Union troops, relocated state records to the city. Although Hot Springs largely escaped the violence of the war, it experienced two minor skirmishes in 1864.
Following the war, settlement and construction surged, with individuals seeking to establish property ownership near the springs. By 1870, Hot Springs had a population of 1,200, and by 1873, six bathhouses and 24 hotels and boardinghouses stood near the springs. The arrival of the Rock Island narrow-gauge railroad in 1875 further fueled the city’s growth and visitation.
The Transformation into a Cosmopolitan Spa
The late 19th century witnessed a significant transformation in Hot Springs. In 1877, Benjamin F. Kelley was appointed as the first superintendent of the reservation, initiating engineering projects that allowed private owners to convert the previously ramshackle bathhouses into a row of attractive buildings. This decision, coupled with the railroad’s arrival, transformed Hot Springs into a cosmopolitan spa that attracted visitors from across the nation.
In 1878, the federal government established a simple frame building over what was known as the "mud hole" spring, providing free bathing services to the poor. This site initially welcomed all, regardless of gender or race, but was later replaced by a new brick building in 1891 that incorporated racial and gender segregation.
Hot Springs Creek
Hot Springs Creek, which flowed through the heart of the city, presented both challenges and opportunities. In 1884, the federal government channeled and roofed over the creek, creating a sidewalk above it. Today, much of the creek runs beneath Central Avenue and Bathhouse Row.
Baseball and the Rise of Gambling
In 1886, the Chicago White Stockings baseball franchise began holding spring training in Hot Springs, marking the beginning of the city’s association with baseball. By the early 20th century, Hot Springs was renowned for its baseball training camps, attracting numerous teams.
The early 1900s saw thousands flock to Hot Springs to experience the water’s purported curative powers. Elaborate bathhouses were constructed to accommodate the influx of tourists. Electric trolleys, telephone lines, and new stores tempted visitors.
Thoroughbred horse racing began in Hot Springs in 1904 with the construction of Essex Park, but a state law prohibiting betting on horse races led to its closure in 1907.
Setbacks and the Birth of Hot Springs National Park
The early 20th century was not without its challenges. A fire in 1905 claimed as many as 25 lives and destroyed nearly 400 buildings. Another fire in 1913 devastated a significant portion of the city’s tourist district, including the Crystal Bathhouse.
In 1921, the government reservation was officially renamed Hot Springs National Park. Although it was the 18th unit in the new National Park Service system, some consider Hot Springs America’s first national park due to its designation as a reservation in 1832.
Gangsters and Gambling
In 1926, Leo McLaughlin was elected mayor and fulfilled his campaign promise to run Hot Springs as an "open" town, which included legal gambling. During his tenure, Hot Springs became a haven for underworld figures, including Owen Vincent "Owney" Madden, Charles "Lucky" Luciano, and Al Capone.
Illegal gambling persisted in Hot Springs even after the McLaughlin political machine was ousted. By 1962, the city’s reputation had become so notorious that it became a major issue in the gubernatorial race. The explosion of a bomb in the Vapors Casino in January 1963 brought the problem of organized crime to the forefront.
Hot Springs Today
Despite the closure of gambling establishments and the shuttering of downtown bathhouses from the 1960s to the 1980s, Hot Springs has continued to grow. Today, it is home to about 37,000 people.
Hot Springs National Park preserves Bathhouse Row, a collection of eight historic and architecturally significant bathhouse buildings and gardens along Central Avenue. These bathhouses, built between 1892 and 1923, stand as a testament to the city’s rich history and its enduring appeal as a place of healing and rejuvenation.
Bathhouse Row
The Bathhouses from south to north include:
- Lamar Bathhouse
- Buckstaff Bathhouse
- Ozark Bathhouse
- Quapaw Bathhouse
- Fordyce Bathhouse
- Maurice Bathhouse
- Hale Bathhouse
- Superior Bathhouse
Today, approximately 1,000,000 gallons of water flow from the springs daily. Radiocarbon dating has revealed that the water that reaches the surface fell as rainfall 4,400 years ago, slowly percolating down through the earth’s crust before emerging from the 47 hot springs.
Hot Springs Creek flows from Whittington Avenue and runs underground in a tunnel beneath Bathhouse Row on Central Avenue, eventually emptying into Lake Hamilton.
Hot Springs, Arkansas, remains a captivating destination where the past and present intertwine, offering visitors a unique blend of history, natural beauty, and the opportunity to experience the healing waters that have drawn people to this remarkable place for centuries.