Independence, Missouri – Queen City of the Trails
Independence, Missouri, a city steeped in rich history and vibrant cultural heritage, proudly carries the moniker "Queen City of the Trails." This title, earned during the 19th century, reflects its pivotal role as the primary departure point for westward expansion along the California, Oregon, and Santa Fe Trails. The city’s story is one of Native American origins, pioneering spirit, religious conflict, and ultimately, a place that helped shape the course of American history.
Nestled on the south bank of the Missouri River, near the state’s northwestern edge, Independence’s geographical location proved crucial to its development. Before European settlers arrived, the area was inhabited by the Kanza and Osage Indians, who knew the land as Big Spring, a testament to the area’s abundant natural resources. These indigenous peoples lived in harmony with the land, their lives intertwined with the rhythms of the seasons and the bounty of the river.
The first Europeans to set foot in the region were Spanish explorers, followed by the French. However, the area officially became American territory in 1803 with the Louisiana Purchase, a pivotal event that doubled the size of the United States and opened up vast swathes of land for exploration and settlement. The famed Lewis and Clark expedition, tasked with charting this new territory, made note of the area in 1804, documenting their stop to gather plums, raspberries, and wild apples, highlighting the region’s fertile landscape.
Missouri achieved statehood on August 10, 1821, marking a turning point in the region’s development. Treaties with the Osage and Kanza Indians in 1825 ceded control of the area to the U.S. government, paving the way for organized settlement. Jackson County was officially established on December 15, 1826, and the land was opened for homesteading. The Missouri General Assembly, tasked with selecting a site for the county seat, chose Big Spring, officially approving a 160-acre site that would become Independence on March 29, 1827. The city’s strategic location and fertile land made it a natural choice for the seat of governance.
Even before Independence was formally established, the seeds of its future prominence were being sown. In 1821, William Becknell blazed the Santa Fe Trail from Franklin, Missouri, passing directly through the area that would later become Independence. As the town grew, it naturally evolved into the eastern terminus of the Santa Fe Trail, a vital trade route connecting the United States with Mexico. Further bolstering its economic significance, a boat landing was established at Blue Mills on the Missouri River in 1831, just six miles from Independence. The increased commerce led to the establishment of a customs house, further solidifying the town’s role as a major trading hub.
The 1830s brought a new wave of settlers to Independence: Mormon missionaries. These missionaries sought to convert the Native American population residing in western Missouri and eastern Kansas. The elders of the church, hailing from Ohio, chose the burgeoning frontier town as their base of operations. In August 1831, Joseph Smith, Jr., the founder and prophet of the Mormon faith, visited Independence and declared it the location of Zion, God’s city on earth. This declaration sparked a mass exodus of Mormons from Ohio, Illinois, and New York to Jackson County. Smith purchased 40 acres of land just west of the courthouse, intended for the construction of a temple. The surrounding countryside quickly filled with Mormon settlements, characterized by homes, churches, mills, and businesses. The Mormons even established one of the region’s first newspapers, the Evening and Morning Star, under the guidance of W.W. Phelps.
However, the arrival of the Mormons was not universally welcomed. Tensions arose between the Mormon settlers and the existing community members, ultimately leading to conflict. One of the primary accusations leveled against the Mormons was that they were abolitionists, a particularly sensitive issue in a slave-holding state like Missouri. While the article was written to curtail trouble, it had the opposite effect, so outraging local citizens that more than 400 met at the courthouse to demand that the Mormons leave. When the church members refused to negotiate away or abandon lands they legally owned, several citizens formed a mob, destroyed the press and printing house, ransacked the Mormon store, and violently accosted Mormon leaders. Bishop Edward Partridge was beaten and tarred, and feathered. Meeting three days later, the mob issued an ultimatum: One-half of the Mormons must leave by year’s end and the rest by April 1834.
The church members decided to stand their ground and seek redress through the courts. The Gentile settlers, however, were having none of it. In October, they mobilized again to drive the Mormons out. On October 31, 1833, they attacked the Whitmer settlement a few miles west of the Big Blue River, demolishing houses, whipping the men, and terrorizing the women and children. The attacks and depredations against church members continued throughout the next week, resulting in the deaths of two Missourians and one defender. The county militia was finally called out to quell the mob and negotiate a truce. When the church members surrendered their arms to the militia, the troops joined the mob in a general assault against them. The terrified church members, numbering about 1,200, fled Jackson County in disarray. Most went north, across the Missouri River, and sought refuge in Clay County.
Their property was either confiscated or destroyed. They drifted about over the state, living in one town and then another until 1838, when the troubles between the Mormons and the Gentiles resulted in a miniature civil war. On October 27, 1838, Missouri Governor Boggs ordered that the Mormons “must be exterminated or driven from the state if necessary for the public good.” Major General Clark enforced the order. Many of the Mormon leaders were taken prisoners, but most of them subsequently escaped. The rest of the Mormons of Missouri, who had grown to more than 12,000, emigrated in the winter of 1838-39 to Illinois, where they formed the town of Nauvoo. The lot the church had purchased to build a temple was sold for taxes.
By 1835, Independence had a second road surveyed and built southwest of town towards Santa Fe. The town’s trading strength was reinforced by Mexican merchants who came northeast along the trail. Independence stood as the farthest point westward on the Missouri River accessible to steamboats and other cargo vessels. Trade flourished in the city, accommodating fur traders, merchants, and adventurers. Large freighting wagons rolled past the courthouse square to and from Santa Fe for the next two decades, further cementing Independence’s status as a vital commercial center.
The early 1840s witnessed a surge in westward migration, with tens of thousands of emigrants flocking to Independence from the east. These travelers sought to outfit themselves for the arduous five-month, 2,000-mile journey along the Oregon and California Trails. It was during this period that Independence truly earned its title as the Queen City of the Trails, providing goods and services to countless travelers embarking on their westward adventures. The city became a bustling hub of activity, filled with the sights and sounds of preparation for the long journey ahead.
Several individuals played key roles in the early development of commerce in Independence. Samuel C. Owens, an early trader, partnered with John Aull, who owned a store in Lexington, Missouri. Sadly, both Owens and James Aull, died while on Doniphan’s Expedition into Mexico. John C. McCoy recounted the unfortunate adventure, noting that "Colonel Owens’ acquaintance with the traders did much to retain Independence as the ‘entropo’ into Mexico." The death of Owens and Aull was a significant loss to the community, their contributions forever etched in the history of Independence and Jackson County.
From the close of the Mexican-American War to 1857, Independence served as a vital outfitting point for western caravans. The manufacture of wagons and other essential equipment became a lucrative business. Some of the prominent figures engaged in this trade included Lewis Jones, Hiram Young, John W. Modie, and Robert Stone. However, commerce in Independence suffered a setback when the Missouri River flooded in 1844, washing away the boat landing at Wayne City. Despite this setback, Independence remained a crucial hub for westward expansion.
During the spring of 1846, while preparing for his own western journey in Westport, Missouri, American historian and author Francis Parkman visited Independence, providing a vivid account of the bustling town: "The town was crowded. A multitude of shops had sprung up to furnish the emigrants and Santa Fe traders with necessaries for their journey, and there was an incessant hammering and banging from a dozen blacksmith’s sheds… The streets were thronged with men, horses, and mules." Parkman’s description captures the energy and activity that defined Independence during its peak as the Queen City of the Trails.
In 1849, to maintain its prominence in the overland trade, Independence constructed a railroad to Wayne City, three and one-half miles north on the Missouri River. This venture, known as the Independence & Wayne City, or Missouri River Railroad, marked a significant milestone as the first railroad constructed west of the Mississippi River. However, the railroad faced financial difficulties and ultimately went bankrupt in 1851. The short-lived railroad serves as a reminder of the challenges and innovations that characterized the era of westward expansion.
The year 1850 saw the establishment of the first overland mail route west of Missouri, connecting Independence with Salt Lake City, Utah, a distance of 1,200 miles. James Brown secured the government contract for this route, while David Waldo, Jacob Hale, and William McCoy were awarded another contract to carry mail from Independence to Santa Fe, New Mexico. The safe return of the mail carriers after their first run to Salt Lake City was celebrated with much rejoicing in Independence, underscoring the importance of communication and connection during this era.
The firm of Hockaday and Hall announced a new stage line in 1857, further solidifying Independence’s role as a transportation hub. However, the coming of the Civil War brought an end to Independence’s era of unbridled prosperity. Tensions between Kansas and Missouri, known as Bleeding Kansas, made the area unsafe for travel, and westbound traffic began to shift to Fort Leavenworth, Kansas.
Several conflicts occurred in Independence during the Civil War, disrupting life and commerce. The town was raided by Union cavalry in 1861 and occupied by Union troops in 1862. Confederate guerrilla William C. Quantrill briefly seized the town in the spring of 1862. A larger Confederate force attacked the Union garrison in Independence on August 11, 1862, capturing the city and taking 350 prisoners. Confederate General Sterling Price reoccupied the town on October 20, 1864, before being driven out four days later by Union General Alfred Pleasanton.
While General Robert E. Lee’s surrender in 1865 marked the end of the Civil War, peace did not immediately return to Independence. However, a law and order association, formed in 1866, helped to suppress violence and restore order. The war left its mark on Independence, hindering its ability to regain its pre-war prosperity. The rise of nearby Kansas City further contributed to Independence’s decline in prominence within Jackson County. Nevertheless, Independence has maintained its position as the county seat to the present day. Despite the challenges, the spirit of Independence endured.
Independence continued to grow, and in 1890, the family of future president Harry S. Truman moved to the city. Truman’s roots in Independence profoundly shaped his character and worldview. After serving as President of the United States, Truman and his wife, Bess, returned to Independence, where they lived out their lives. Today, Independence offers numerous attractions, including the Harry S. Truman National Historic Site, the Harry S. Truman Presidential Library and Museum, and Truman’s boyhood residences.
In addition to its historical significance, Independence continues to hold importance for the Latter-Day Saints. It serves as the headquarters of the Community of Christ, the second-largest denomination in the Latter-Day Saint movement. The church has built a temple, maintains a large auditorium, and operates a sizable visitors’ center in Independence.
Today, Independence stands as the fourth-largest city in Missouri, with a population exceeding 120,000. While it has become a satellite city of Kansas City, Independence retains its distinct identity and rich heritage. Visitors can explore its many attractions, including the National Frontier Trails Center, historic homes, Independence Square, and Civil War markers. The story of Independence, Missouri, the Queen City of the Trails, is a testament to the enduring spirit of westward expansion and the individuals who shaped the course of American history.
The legacy of Independence as the Queen City of the Trails is not just a historical footnote but a living part of its identity. The city continues to commemorate its pioneering past through museums, historical sites, and community events, ensuring that the stories of those who passed through Independence on their way west are never forgotten. The enduring spirit of adventure and determination that characterized the era of westward expansion remains a palpable presence in this vibrant Missouri city. The term Independence, Missouri, the Queen City of the Trails echoes through time, a reminder of a pivotal period in American history.