Jerome, Arizona – Copper Queen on the Hill
Perched dramatically atop Cleopatra Hill, overlooking the expansive Verde Valley, lies the historic mining town of Jerome, Arizona. This captivating locale, once a booming hub of copper extraction, has reinvented itself as a haven for artists and a fascinating destination for tourists seeking a glimpse into the American West’s vibrant past.
The story of Jerome, Arizona begins long before the arrival of European settlers, with a rich Native American history stretching back centuries. Archaeological evidence suggests that various indigenous groups inhabited the Verde Valley as early as 1100 A.D. Among these were the Hohokam, known for their sophisticated irrigation systems and agricultural practices, and the Sinagua, who left their mark on the landscape with impressive cliff dwellings like Tuzigoot. The Mogollon and Saluda peoples also occupied neighboring regions, contributing to the diverse cultural tapestry of early Arizona. The Sinagua mysteriously abandoned the valley around the early 1400s, leaving behind unanswered questions about their departure.
The arrival of Spanish explorers in 1582 marked a new chapter in the region’s history. The Yavapai Indians, who had settled in the area, were approached by the Spanish, eager to discover sources of precious metals. The Yavapai led them to a small, cave-like pit, a rudimentary mine where they extracted copper for use as pigment in their traditional body and textile art. However, the Spanish, driven by their insatiable lust for gold and silver, quickly lost interest in the copper deposits and abandoned the area, leaving the Yavapai to their traditional way of life.
The relative isolation of the Yavapai continued until the mid-19th century. Following the Mexican-American War in 1848, the region became part of the United States, ushering in a wave of Anglo-American settlers. Ranchers, homesteaders, and prospectors flocked to the area, drawn by the promise of land and opportunity. In 1863, the discovery of gold near Prescott triggered a full-blown mining rush, further intensifying the influx of newcomers.
As the white settlers encroached upon their ancestral lands, the Yavapai, once known for their peaceful nature, began to organize in self-defense, determined to protect their territory and resources. This resistance led to escalating hostilities between the Yavapai and the settlers. After the American Civil War concluded, the U.S. Cavalry was dispatched to quell the Indian uprising. In a decisive campaign led by General George Crook during the fall and winter of 1872-1873, the Yavapai were ultimately defeated. The remnants of the tribe were forcibly removed to the Camp Verde Reservation and later relocated to the San Carlos Reservation, marking a tragic end to their long-standing presence in the Verde Valley.
The 1880s witnessed a renewed interest in copper mining, fueled by growing industrial demand. Several mining operations were established, the most significant being the United Verde Copper Company, founded in 1882. Territorial Governor Frederick Tritle, recognizing the potential of the copper deposits, secured financing from New York investors James McDonald and Eugene Jerome. It was in honor of the latter that the burgeoning town was named Jerome, Arizona.
The town experienced a rapid boom, attracting prospectors and laborers from far and wide. However, this initial prosperity was short-lived. A sudden drop in copper prices forced the United Verde Copper Company to temporarily cease operations, leading to an exodus of workers. Despite this setback, Jerome, Arizona managed to persevere. In September 1883, a post office was established, a testament to the town’s enduring spirit, and it has remained in continuous operation ever since.
A pivotal moment in Jerome, Arizona‘s history arrived in 1888 when William A. Clark, a shrewd entrepreneur who already owned several claims in the area, purchased the United Verde Copper Company for $80,000. Clark embarked on an ambitious program of improvements, recognizing the potential for substantial profits. He commissioned the construction of a narrow-gauge railroad from Jerome Junction, connecting the town to Ash Fork and eventually to the Santa Fe, Prescott, & Phoenix Railroad. This narrow-gauge line, which operated from 1895 to 1920, was an engineering marvel, navigating a winding route with 187 curves and 28 bridges across its 27-mile length.
Clark continued to expand his mining operations, establishing a surface plant in Jerome, Arizona, a tunnel transfer system known as the "Hopewell Tunnel," and new loading facilities. Within seven years of acquiring the United Verde Copper Company, Clark was reaping a staggering $1 million per month in revenue, transforming him into one of the wealthiest men in the West.
The town of Jerome, Arizona flourished alongside Clark’s mining empire. By 1899, it had become the fifth-largest city in the Arizona Territory. That same year, the town was officially incorporated, with a primary focus on establishing and enforcing building codes. These regulations, which mandated brick or masonry construction, were implemented to prevent the devastating fires that had repeatedly plagued Jerome, Arizona in the past. The town, largely constructed of wood, had suffered significant damage in fires that swept through the commercial district in 1894, 1897, 1898, and 1899.
One colorful anecdote from the 1897 fire recounts how a madam from one of the local brothels, in a moment of panic, ran into the street and offered free "services" to the entire fire department if they would save her establishment. Remarkably, the house was spared, adding another layer to Jerome, Arizona‘s already rich tapestry of legends.
As a bustling mining camp, Jerome, Arizona rapidly gained a reputation as a rough and rowdy town, characterized by its numerous saloons, gambling dens, and brothels. This reputation reached its zenith on February 5, 1903, when the New York Sun declared Jerome, Arizona to be "the wickedest town in the West."
Despite the formal organization brought about by the town’s incorporation, including a fire department and a police force, Jerome, Arizona‘s reputation for vice and wickedness continued to grow. Prostitution, alcohol abuse, gambling, drug use, and gunfights in the streets were rampant as the population swelled.
In 1911, Clark embarked on another ambitious project, constructing a railroad connecting the Verde Valley to Drake, Arizona. This 38-mile line, known as the Verde Valley Railroad and operated by the Santa Fe, Prescott & Phoenix Railroad, was built in just one year at a cost of $1.3 million.
The construction of the Verde Valley Railroad was a remarkable feat of engineering, requiring the labor of 250 men, 200 mules, and the use of vast quantities of explosives. The Verde Canyon Railroad still operates today, offering a four-hour scenic train ride through the towering red rock formations of Verde Canyon, traversing two national forests, passing by ancient Indian ruins, and navigating a 680-foot man-made tunnel.
The onset of World War I sent copper prices soaring, triggering a period of unprecedented prosperity for Jerome, Arizona. The town’s population swelled to approximately 15,000, drawing immigrants from all corners of the globe to work in the 24-hour copper mines. Numerous hotels were constructed specifically to house the miners, who often rented rooms in eight-hour shifts. Many of the town’s businesses, particularly those of the more "shady" variety, also operated around the clock, including eight brothels, 21 saloons, and numerous opium dens. However, the more "civilized" members of the community also established three movie theaters, schools, swimming pools, bowling alleys, restaurants, churches, and an opera house, reflecting the diverse social fabric of Jerome, Arizona.
Beneath the veneer of prosperity, however, a simmering discontent was brewing. The miners were increasingly dissatisfied with their wages and working conditions. Union organizers, particularly those from the Industrial Workers of the World (IWW), commonly known as the "Wobblies," became increasingly active. This group, already viewed with suspicion by middle-class America, became even more reviled at the outbreak of the war, as many of its members were foreign-born and perceived as a threat to the social and industrial order.
While the non-mining population may have been suspicious, the miners joined the union in droves. By May 1917, strikes were in full force across all of the mines in the Jerome, Arizona area, and within a month, the strikes had spread statewide. The mine owners in Jerome, Arizona were determined to suppress the labor unrest. On July 12th, armed agents of the mine owners rounded up approximately 67 labor union organizers and unionized miners, herded them onto a railroad cattle car, and shipped them to Kingman, Arizona, with a warning not to return under penalty of death. This event became known as the Jerome Deportation, a dark chapter in the town’s history.
Following the war, copper prices began to decline, and the ore became increasingly difficult to extract from the mountain. By the time the Great Depression struck, Jerome, Arizona, along with the rest of the nation, was plunged into a severe economic downturn. By 1930, most of the mines had closed. However, in 1935, Phelps Dodge acquired the vast majority of mining operations in the area and resumed mining on a much larger scale, utilizing massive quantities of explosives to create a huge open-pit mine just north of the town. A full-scale underground railroad was used to transport the ore to a new smelter in Clarkdale.
The constant blasting and tunneling beneath the surface of the mountain had a devastating impact on the town of Jerome, Arizona. The entire town began to slide downhill, causing some businesses, including a movie theater, pharmacy, pool hall, and J.C. Penney’s, to move involuntarily. Other businesses simply collapsed. Jerome, Arizona‘s famous "Sliding Jail" can still be seen hundreds of feet downhill from its original location.
Despite these challenges, the resilient residents of Jerome, Arizona persevered. The outbreak of World War II once again drove up copper prices, revitalizing the town’s economy. However, the rich copper ore was dwindling and becoming increasingly difficult to access. After the war, prices plummeted once more, and in 1952, Phelps Dodge finally ceased its operations in Jerome, Arizona for good. During its 70 years of operation, the United Verde Mine and other mines in the area had produced over $1 billion worth of copper, gold, silver, zinc, and lead.
With the closure of the mines, families departed en masse. Many, unable to find buyers for their homes, simply abandoned them, complete with furnishings, before moving on to seek new opportunities. With only about 100 residents remaining in the town, buildings began to deteriorate, continued to slide down the hill, or fell victim to vandalism over the next two decades, despite the efforts of the Jerome Historical Society.
However, in the late 1960s, a new wave of residents, captivated by the charm of the old town, began to move in. Jerome, Arizona gradually transformed into an artists’ community and a tourist destination. On April 19, 1967, the Jerome Historic District was officially designated a Registered National Historic Landmark, and "That the past may live" became the town’s official motto.
The town began to promote itself as America’s newest and biggest ghost town, attracting a growing number of tourists, some of whom decided to make Jerome, Arizona their home, gradually increasing the town’s population.
Today, this quaint town of approximately 400 residents offers tourists a unique glimpse into the past through its numerous historic buildings, as well as a variety of specialty shops, restaurants, and galleries. Visitors can take a walking tour of Jerome, Arizona, exploring restored historic structures and witnessing ongoing restoration projects.
One intriguing area is the "Crib District," located across the street from the English Kitchen in a back alley that once housed Jerome, Arizona‘s infamous "prostitution row." The town’s high elevation provides natural air conditioning, with temperatures typically about 20 degrees cooler than in the Verde Valley.
In addition to its numerous photo opportunities, Jerome, Arizona offers a range of attractions, including the Douglas Mansion State Park, a 1916 mansion and museum; carriage tours; and the Jerome Historical Society Museum. Nearby attractions include the Verde Canyon Railroad, located about ten minutes away; the Blazin’ M Ranch, a family entertainment center in Cottonwood; and the Tuzigoot National Monument, a 12th-century Indian village.
Just a mile north of Jerome, Arizona lies another historic mining camp called Haynes. In 1890, it was the home of the Gold King Mine and a bustling suburb of Jerome, Arizona. The Haynes Copper Company sank a shaft 1200 feet into the mountain, hoping to strike it rich. Though they didn’t find copper, they discovered gold. In 1901, Haynes boasted a population of 301 people and even had its own post office from 1908 to 1922.
However, like Jerome, Arizona and other area mines, the ore eventually ran out. By 1914, only 14 people called Haynes home, and the town soon emptied out completely. In the 1960s, it was sold and transformed into a "ghost town" tourist attraction. Today, it features a collection of old buildings, a petting zoo, a walk-in mine, antique vehicles, and vintage machinery, much of which is still operational.
Some of the buildings are original, including the 1901 blacksmith shop, the clapboard hilltop home that once served as a boarding house and briefly as a bordello, and a 1914 sawmill that still fulfills lumber orders. Other buildings were brought in from the area, and some were reconstructed using reclaimed lumber. The "town" offers demonstrations of antique mining equipment, showcases the world’s largest gas engines, features dozens of classic cars and trucks, and provides breathtaking views of the Verde Valley.