Jerome, Missouri – A Tribute to the Trail of Tears

Jerome, Missouri, a place steeped in history and natural beauty, rests as an unincorporated community nestled along the banks of the Gasconade River in western Phelps County. The landscape, characterized by surprisingly broad river valleys amidst the rugged terrain of the Ozark Mountains, holds a unique appeal, whispering tales of early settlement, railroad booms and busts, and a poignant connection to the nation’s past. This relatively untouched corner of Missouri presents a compelling glimpse into a bygone era, where the echoes of progress and sorrow resonate through the rolling hills and flowing waters.

The allure of the Gasconade River Valley drew pioneer immigrants to this part of the Ozarks during the 1820s and 1830s. The promise of fertile land and access to water, vital for sustenance and transportation, beckoned settlers seeking a new life. Despite these attractions, the area remained sparsely populated for decades, its remote location and challenging terrain deterring widespread settlement. The Civil War further disrupted life in the region, leaving its mark on the landscape and its people.

The post-Civil War era brought a surge of activity to the sleepy region, spearheaded by the ambitious vision of General John Charles Fremont. In 1866, Fremont seized control of the financially struggling Southwest Branch of the Union Pacific Railroad. This railway, originally intended to stretch westward from St. Louis, had stalled at Rolla due to the war’s disruptions. With renewed vigor, Fremont initiated the resumption of construction, aiming to push the railroad further westward. By 1867, the railway line had reached Arlington, a town situated directly across the Gasconade River from what would become Jerome.

That same year witnessed a flurry of activity on both sides of the Gasconade. Thomas C. Harrison strategically platted the town of Arlington alongside the newly constructed railroad on the east bank of the river. Simultaneously, William F. Greely, an associate of Fremont, laid out "Fremont Town" on the west side. Fremont Town, the initial name for Jerome, Missouri, was intended to be a bustling hub, capitalizing on its position as the railroad’s temporary western terminus.

With the railroad’s arrival, Fremont Town experienced an almost instantaneous boom. The townsite, spanning several acres, centered around a grand square where Greely embarked on constructing a massive hotel made of stone. Within a mere two years, the population swelled to an estimated 1,500 residents, transforming the once-quiet area into a vibrant center of commerce and activity. However, the fortunes of Fremont Town, and subsequently Jerome, Missouri, were as fleeting as they were rapid.

In 1869, control of the rail line shifted to new owners, and construction resumed, pushing the railroad further west. The strategic importance of Fremont Town as a transportation terminus vanished, and the town’s fortunes reversed dramatically. Residents deserted en masse, seeking opportunities elsewhere, leaving Greely’s grand hotel unfinished and abandoned. The Phelps County Court officially vacated the plat of Fremont Town and its additions in 1874, marking the official end of its brief but explosive existence. By this time, only a handful of businesses remained: a single store, a schoolhouse, and three sawmills. Arlington, its sister city across the river, fared slightly better, maintaining a post office and two stores, primarily serving as a lumber shipping point.

Though the town was all but deserted, its name eventually evolved to Jerome, Missouri. Despite the dramatic population decline, the region’s dense forests of oak and pine provided a source of commerce in the late 19th century. The timber throughout the Gasconade and Little Piney River drainages was harvested and transported downstream in large rafts to both Jerome, Missouri, and Arlington. There, the wood was processed into finished lumber and railroad ties before being shipped out via the railroad. Notable figures like John F. Rucker and his son, Booker Hall Rucker, operated a successful lumber business in Jerome, Missouri, during the 1880s and 1890s, supplying the Missouri Pacific and St. Louis and San Francisco railroads with essential cross-ties. Booker Rucker also held the position of Arlington’s postmaster and operated a general store during the 1890s. However, by the turn of the century, the area’s timber resources were largely depleted, impacting the local economy.

By 1901, despite Arlington’s post office remaining operational, Jerome was reduced to a single occupied building: the clubhouse of the Jerome Hunting and Fishing Club. This club, established by a group of St. Louis sportsmen, foreshadowed the future direction of the area. In the early 20th century, both Jerome and Arlington experienced a revival as the Gasconade River Valley gained popularity as a destination for fishing, boating, and outdoor recreation. After a 38-year hiatus, Jerome’s post office reopened in June 1910, coinciding with the increasing popularity of automobiles and the creation of Missouri State Highway 14.

In 1914, the St. Louis-San Francisco Railway introduced a weekend-only train service called "The Fisherman," connecting St. Louis with the Gasconade River at Jerome. This initiative drew large crowds eager to enjoy fishing, hunting, and other outdoor activities on the Gasconade and Big Piney Rivers. Around 1916, Sylvester J. Bryant established the Bryant Resort at Jerome, which, within a decade, became renowned as "one of the largest and most famous resorts in the middle-west."

The year 1923 saw the construction of two steel bridges on Highway 14, connecting Jerome and Arlington. One bridge spanned the railroad tracks across the Gasconade River, while the other crossed the Little Piney River. In 1926, Missouri Highway 14 was incorporated into the iconic Route 66, which was paved by 1931. This development dramatically increased travel and tourism in the area, transforming the local economy.

Capitalizing on the influx of visitors, Sylvester Bryant expanded his resort in Jerome by adding nine cottages in the spring of 1926. During the following summer, he brought in the Bryant Jazz Orchestra, hailed as "a dandy good orchestra," to perform nightly in his new open-air pavilion after July 1st. Across the river in Arlington, Judge and Mrs. G.V. Randolph operated the Piney View Cottages, welcoming 34 guests for the 1927 summer season. Many other residents found employment as fishing guides, providing boats and tackle for vacationers. Regrettably, no remnants of this resort remain today.

The rapid expansion of the state road system and the resulting surge in travel created an appealing environment for entrepreneurs eager to profit from the unprecedented traffic and tourist spending. These favorable conditions prompted a group of wealthy businessmen from Rolla to partner with Lawrence W. Fitzpatrick, president of the St. Louis Construction Company, to construct a toll bridge across the Gasconade River, connecting Route 66 with the nearby resorts at Jerome. While the Jerome Bridge was under construction, the State of Missouri planned to designate a three-mile stretch of road, extending from Route 66 across the new bridge to the county line, as a state highway. The four-span truss bridge, measuring 126 feet in length, was completed in 1928. Unfortunately, this historic bridge was replaced with a more ordinary structure in 1997.

By this time, the village of Jerome had shifted approximately half a mile north to the west bank of the Gasconade River. The Jerome Bridge, the area’s resorts, and Route 66 were situated south of the town of Jerome, along what is now designated as D Highway. This area was once known locally as Tater Hollow.

One of the most popular destinations along Route 66 was the Stony Dell Resort. Constructed in 1932, it was initially part of Arlington, located on the east side of the Gasconade River near the old town. Today, it falls within the jurisdiction of the town of Jerome.

The Stony Dell Resort was built, owned, and operated by George Prewett and his son, Vernon. Both were stonemasons by trade, and, together with a carpenter named George Badger, they began constructing the resort in the early 1930s. Upon completion, the resort boasted a spring-fed swimming pool, a two-story stone bathhouse, a restaurant, a service station, tennis courts, landscaped gardens, picnic grounds, and several cabins constructed of either stone or wood. These cabins rented for a modest $1 to $2 per night. In 1935, the Rolla Herald newspaper described the resort as "one of the beauty spots of Phelps County."

Its most notable feature was its 100-foot-long rock swimming pool, fed by an artesian well through a large stone fountain. Despite the water’s frigid temperature, it didn’t deter visitors from enjoying the refreshing waters. The resort became so popular that police were sometimes needed to direct traffic. The artesian spring water was also sold in the Stony Dell gift shop and used to fill tanks in the restaurant, where live fish were kept, allowing diners to select their desired meal.

Eight stone cabins were built on a terraced hill overlooking the old highway, accessed by a flagstone path leading from the road beneath a stone archway. The retaining wall and the archway were built using native stone, showcasing a variety of textures and patterns. Today, the remains of one cabin, the retaining wall, and the archway still stand as silent witnesses to the resort’s former glory.

The Stony Dell Swimming Pool and Park complex once occupied the south side of the road, while the cabins and restaurant were situated on the north side. Sadly, the park complex is now long gone.

Located at the base of a wooded hillside on the north side of the highway, a long building housed a restaurant and curio shop called Granny’s Vittles, which also served as a Trailways bus station in the 1930s. An ornamental "fish pond" constructed of random rubble stone once stood on the west end of the building. Burned out today, its ruins remain visible.

Next door stood a couple of craftsman-style buildings, one of which was alternately called the Bear’s Den and the Bushwhackerood building. These buildings still stand, displaying a sign advertising "Gas, Food, Bait, Handmade Gifts." Across from these buildings, on the north side of the road, are the remnants of four of eight small wood cabins. The largest of these cabins, located at the north end of the line, is believed to have been the Arlington Schoolhouse. Though deteriorating, the cabins continue to stand.

For decades, the river resort was a favorite among Route 66 travelers and servicemen from nearby Fort Leonard Wood. It was even rumored to have been a favorite destination for actress Mae West, who reportedly visited several times. In addition to its amenities, the resort offered dancing, tennis, boating, fishing, and even access to a Justice of the Peace.

By 1952, the Prewetts had sold the property, and from 1954 to 1967, it was operated by Fred Widener. However, by the 1960s, the resort began to show its age. In 1967, Stony Dell’s swimming pool and park complex on the south side of Route 66 were demolished to make way for I-44, and the resort closed its doors permanently.

Approximately half a mile to the southwest was another popular Route 66 stop, known by various names including the Happy Hill Restaurant, the Happy Hill Cafe, and the Honey & Hot Biscuit Cafe. This long, narrow building was constructed around 1945. In the 1950s, the restaurant was praised in newspapers for its delicious barbecued pork, beef, and ribs. Despite serving countless customers along the highway for years, it eventually closed and is now in ruins.

Adjacent to this former restaurant is a private residence that became known as Larry Baggett’s Trail of Tears Memorial. Larry Baggett acquired the property with the intention of building a campground, but his plans changed after his wife’s passing. Sometime later, an elderly Cherokee Indian, seemingly around 150 years old, visited Larry and informed him that his house was built on the Trail of Tears, obstructing the path. The Indian explained how the Cherokee people had been forced to walk hundreds of miles and had camped near Larry’s home.

Prior to meeting the elderly Cherokee man, Larry had constructed a stone wall near his house. The Indian instructed him to build stairs to allow the spirits to pass over the wall. Larry followed the instructions, building stairs to nowhere. Once the stairs were complete, the knocking sounds ceased. He then constructed a tribute to the Trail of Tears, featuring a stone archway labeled "Trail of Tears" flanked by a statue of himself on one side and another statue pouring water out of a bucket on the other side. The property included several stone walls, folk art statues, a wishing well, rock gardens, and a sign detailing the suffering of the American Indians along the Trail of Tears. His large stone house was built around three living trees.

Baggett’s memorial quickly gained attention, transforming him into a local legend as the media highlighted "local curiosities" and tourists sought out cultural oddities along old Route 66. He was featured on several local television stations and in a documentary filmed in Great Britain.

Mr. Baggett passed away in 2003, and two years later, his "shrine" was sold. It remained empty until 2018, with the structures deteriorating and even the head of his "self-portrait" sculpture disappearing. However, in 2017, Marie Ryberg purchased the property with the goal of restoring the attraction. With the help of local artist Chris Richardson and volunteers, the Memorial reopened in April 2018 under the new name "Trail of Tears and Herbal Gardens."

For Route 66 travelers, the historic sites are not located in the present-day town center of Jerome, Missouri, but rather to the southwest along Missouri Highway D. From Interstate-44, travelers should take exit #172 and turn right onto Missouri Highway D. Within a mile, they will encounter these Route 66 landmarks.

To continue the journey westward on Route 66, travelers should return to I-44 and continue southwest to Devil’s Elbow.