Leadville, Colorado – Cloud City USA
"There has been but one Leadville. Never will there be another." This quote, plucked from a 1916 edition of Olden Times in Colorado, succinctly captures the essence of Leadville, a city steeped in history and brimming with an enduring, almost magical allure. Its rich past continues to captivate visitors, transporting them to a bygone era of silver booms and Wild West legends.
Nestled high in the Colorado Rockies, Leadville, Colorado, earns its nicknames, "The Two Mile High City" and "Cloud City," from its extraordinary elevation. At 10,430 feet above sea level, it was once the highest incorporated city in the United States. While Alma, Colorado, now holds that title, Leadville remains a testament to the human spirit’s ability to thrive in challenging environments. Situated at the base of two of Colorado’s most imposing peaks, Mount Elbert and Mount Massive, Leadville proudly stands as one of America’s few remaining authentic mining towns, a living museum of the West’s captivating history.
Describing itself as both quaint and utterly original, Leadville has earned the esteemed designation of a National Historic Landmark District. This distinction recognizes the city’s remarkably preserved Victorian architecture, which spans seventy square blocks, each building whispering tales of fortunes won and lost. Adjacent to this historic urban core lies the expansive twenty-square-mile Leadville mining district, a landscape dotted with the remnants of bygone mining operations – weathered cabins, towering headframes, and the silent scars of extraction that indelibly mark the earth.
The story of Leadville begins with the discovery of gold in California Gulch in 1859, sparking the initial rush of prospectors to the area. In 1860, Horace and Augusta Tabor, figures who would become synonymous with Leadville’s fortunes, arrived in the Gulch. Horace tried his hand at placer mining, while Augusta, a woman of remarkable fortitude and entrepreneurial spirit, became the camp’s provisioner. She skillfully filled the roles of cook, laundress, banker, and even postmistress, catering to the burgeoning population of miners. By 1861, the allure of gold had drawn over 5,000 prospectors to the area, leading to the establishment of Oro City, a bustling settlement fueled by the promise of riches. The Tabors, ever adaptable, followed in the miners’ footsteps for several years, moving from one mining camp to another, before ultimately returning to Oro City in 1868 and re-establishing their store.
However, the easily accessible placer deposits of gold were quickly depleted, and despite the successful opening of the Printer Boy Mine in 1868, Oro City faced abandonment by the 1870s. The majority of miners, driven by the relentless pursuit of wealth, departed to chase new gold discoveries in other mining camps, such as Buckskin Joe, Payne’s Bar (now Idaho Springs), and various other locations along the eastern slopes of the Continental Divide. Oro City, once vibrant with the hopes and dreams of thousands, risked fading into obscurity.
The fortunes of the area were dramatically reversed in 1875 when Alvinius Woods, a metallurgist, and his partner William Stevens made a pivotal discovery. They realized that the troublesome local sands that had hindered gold sluicing were, in fact, composed of carbonate of lead with an unusually high silver content. Understanding the significance of their find, Woods and Stevens shrewdly kept their discovery a secret and quietly began acquiring many of the abandoned gold claims that littered the landscape.
The secret couldn’t last forever. When Woods sold his interest in the partnership for a substantial $40,000, word of the silver strike rapidly spread, triggering a second, even more significant boom in the area. Thousands of prospectors once again descended upon the gulch, transforming the landscape and ultimately leading to the formal founding of Leadville. In January 1878, the city of Leadville was officially incorporated, and by 1879, its population had exploded to a staggering 18,000 residents, a testament to the allure of silver and the promise of wealth. In the summer of 1878, Horace Tabor, through a stroke of luck and entrepreneurial spirit, struck it rich after providing grubstakes to two miners on a seemingly insignificant claim. This event catapulted him to fame and fortune, earning him the title of the "Silver King of Leadville."
In 1879, at the height of his burgeoning wealth, Horace Tabor commissioned the construction of the Tabor Opera House, a grand and opulent establishment that quickly became a legend in its own time. The opera house swiftly eclipsed the smaller theatres and showhouses that previously served the community, establishing itself as the premier social hub of Leadville. Its opening night, held on November 20, 1879, faced an unusual challenge in attracting an audience. A double lynching, carried out by the local vigilante organization, occurred on the same evening. Two claim jumpers were forcibly taken from the county jail and hanged from the rafters of the jailhouse roof as a stark warning to "thieves, bunco-steerers, footpads and chronic bondsmen." Despite the macabre competition, the Tabor Opera House quickly rose in popularity, becoming the most sought-after entertainment venue in town.
The year 1879 in Leadville was a period of stark contrasts, where violence and prosperity coexisted in an uneasy equilibrium. The local newspaper captured the essence of this duality, observing, "Leadville never sleeps. The theaters close at three in the morning. The dance houses and liquoring shops are never shut. The highwayman patrols the street in quest of drunken prey. The policeman treads his beat to and fro. The music at the beer halls is grinding low. A mail coach has just arrived. There is a merry party opposite the public school. A sick man is groaning in the agonies of death. Carbonate Hill, with her scores of briefly blazing fires, is Argus-eyed. Three shots are heard down below the old courthouse. There is a fight in a State Street casino. A woman screams. The sky is cloudless. Amman stands dreaming in front of the Windsor, looking at the stars – he is away from home."
The journal continued its vivid depiction of Leadville’s frenetic atmosphere, "A barouche holding two men and two women come rushing up Chestnut Street. Another shot is heard down near the city jail. A big forest fire lights up the mountains at the head of Iowa Gulch. ‘Give you the price of a bed, did you say?’ ‘Yes, I’ve not seen a bed for a week. Believe me, kind sir, I’m sick and in need of a friend. Help me, stranger, and as true as I live I’ll repay your kindness.’ The clock on the Grand Hotel points to one. Shots are heard from Carbonate Hill. The roar of revelry is on the increase. The streets are full of drunken carousers taking in the town."
By 1881, Leadville had solidified its position as a major industrial center, boasting 14 smelters and reduction plants that processed the vast quantities of ore extracted from the surrounding mines. Some of the most prominent and productive mines in the Leadville district included the Tabor Matchless Mine, Morning Star, Iron Silver, Catalpa, Chrysolite, and Little Pittsburgh (Horace Tabor also held interests in several of these ventures). Silver production reached its zenith in 1880, exceeding $11,000,000 in value. For several years afterward, production remained steady at approximately $10,000,000 annually before gradually declining. This period witnessed the rise and fall of numerous fortunes within the mining district, with Horace Tabor’s story serving as a particularly poignant example. He rose to become one of the wealthiest men in the world, only to eventually die in relative poverty.
Around 1883, the legendary Doc Holliday, the notorious gambler and gunfighter, made Leadville his primary headquarters, residing there for the majority of the time until his death. While the high altitude of the mining camp was detrimental to his tuberculosis, Holliday remained in Leadville, only venturing out when he sensed an opportunity elsewhere.
On the afternoon of August 19, 1884, Doc Holliday was involved in an altercation with Billy Allen at Hyman’s Saloon. Knowing that Allen was looking for trouble, Doc leveled his pistol as Allen entered, firing a bullet over Allen’s head, narrowly missing him. Allen turned to flee but tripped over the threshold, falling to his hands and knees. Doc fired again, striking Allen in the right arm. Holliday would have likely continued firing, but the bartender intervened, rushing from behind and restraining Doc’s gun hand. The Leadville Daily Democrat, in a news report published days later, stated, "The public sentiment, which has nothing to do with the law, is largely in favor of Holliday. The manlier class of the community not only appreciate this but have little criticism to make as to his actions in connection with his trouble with Allen."
Despite his local popularity, Holliday faced a lengthy legal process. However, on March 28, 1885, a jury acquitted him of the shooting and attempted murder charges. The courthouse in Leadville still preserves records of the infamous gunfighter and gambler’s arrests in its jail records, a tangible link to the city’s Wild West past.
In the spring of 1887, Doc Holliday purchased a one-way ticket to Glenwood Springs, a spa town known for its purported curative waters, hoping for relief from his debilitating tuberculosis. He passed away there before the year’s end.
By 1893, Leadville’s estimated population had soared to nearly 60,000. However, at its very peak, the city faced a devastating downturn when the United States adopted the gold standard, triggering a severe economic depression in the area and forcing the closure of most of the silver mines. All of the smelters ceased operations, with the exception of one, which eventually became the Arkansas Valley Smelter, the largest in Colorado, continuing to operate until the 1960s. By 1896, the mines in the Leadville area had collectively produced over $200 million worth of ore.
As the local economy faltered in the aftermath of the Silver Panic, significant gold deposits were discovered in the eastern portion of the district, leading to the third major boom in Leadville’s history. The discovery of these rich gold deposits breathed new life into the struggling Leadville district.
The Ibex Mining Company emerged as a prominent player in the district, acquiring many of the older silver workings and reopening them. The lead and zinc ores extracted from the mines contained significant quantities of manganese and bismuth, in addition to gold. This diversification of production allowed the district to sustain a reasonable level of prosperity until the onset of the Great Depression. The low world metal prices, increasing production costs, and limited capital resources gradually forced the closure of most mining operations.
In an effort to attract visitors and revitalize its flagging economy, Leadville, now past its prime, embarked on an ambitious project: the construction of a mammoth ice palace.
The Crystal Palace, completed in December 1895 and opened on January 1, 1896, was the largest ice structure ever built in the United States, encompassing 58,000 square feet.
The palatial building featured an ice skating rink, a merry-go-round, a toboggan run, and various social enterprises, including gambling, restaurants, and dance rooms. Unfortunately, an unusually early thaw in March brought a premature end to the magnificent ice palace.
Despite attracting more than 250,000 visitors, the Crystal Palace failed to revive the community, and those who invested in the venture suffered significant financial losses.
During the early 20th century, a vast deposit of molybdenum was discovered in Climax, located 14 miles northeast of Leadville. This metal, crucial for the production of modern high-strength steel alloys, led to the creation of the Climax Molybdenum Company and the development of one of the largest open-pit mines in the world to extract the ore from Bartlett Mountain. By the 1940s, the mine’s annual production exceeded $13,000,000.
Today, Leadville stands as one of America’s last remaining authentic mining towns, offering a wealth of historical attractions. These include the federally chartered National Mining Hall of Fame Museum, the Healy House & Dexter Cabin State Museum, and the Tabor Opera House, each providing a glimpse into the city’s vibrant past.
A "must-stop" destination for ghost town enthusiasts and explorers is the Leadville Chamber of Commerce, where visitors can obtain a free map entitled "The Route of the Silver Kings." This informational guide provides details about the mines surrounding Leadville and guides visitors along the scenic route. Most of the roads are easily accessible by any vehicle, making it a worthwhile excursion.
Recreational opportunities abound in the vast mountains, streams, and lakes that surround Leadville. With altitudes rarely dipping below 9,000 feet, the area boasts exceptional scenery, crisp mountain air, and pleasant summer temperatures.
Visitors can enjoy horseback riding, rock-hounding, climbing Colorado’s highest peaks, camping, hunting, fishing, mountain biking, exceptional cross-country skiing, and a wide array of other outdoor activities.
Leadville/Lake County Chamber of Commerce
809 Harrison Ave
Leadville, Colorado
719-486-3900