Lincoln, New Mexico – Wild Wild West Frozen in Time
Stepping onto Main Street in Lincoln, New Mexico, is akin to traversing a portal into the heart of the Wild West. The very air seems to hum with echoes of legendary figures, infamous conflicts, and the raw, untamed spirit of a bygone era. It was here, amidst the dusty streets and adobe structures, that men like Billy the Kid and Pat Garrett etched their names into the annals of history. This unassuming settlement served as the stage for a complex drama involving Native Americans, Mexican-American settlers, hardened gunfighters, and unscrupulous politicians, culminating in the eruption of the violent Lincoln County War. The conflict claimed numerous lives and catapulted Billy the Kid into the realm of legend.
Today, Lincoln, New Mexico, offers visitors a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the late 1800s. The century-old adobe buildings stand as silent witnesses to the town’s turbulent past, while local storytellers weave tales of the characters and events that shaped its identity. Walking the same dusty streets that once echoed with gunfire and the clamor of conflict is an experience that transports you back in time, allowing you to feel the pulse of the Wild West.
Before the arrival of European settlers, the area surrounding present-day Lincoln, New Mexico, was the domain of various Native American tribes who roamed the land freely. The landscape remained untouched by significant outside influence until around 1849, when Spanish pioneers began to arrive and settle in the verdant valley along the Rio Bonito. They christened their fledgling community "Las Placitas del Rio Bonito," which translates to "the village by the pretty river," a testament to the area’s natural beauty and abundant resources.
In 1869, a pivotal moment arrived when Lincoln County was officially formed. The small settlement of Las Placitas del Rio Bonito was chosen as the new county seat, and with this designation came a new name: Lincoln. This marked a turning point in the town’s history, setting the stage for its transformation into a hub of activity and a focal point for the events that would soon define its legacy.
The establishment of Lincoln County attracted a diverse influx of people, including cattle barons, cowboys, and Spanish settlers, all drawn to the promise of opportunity and prosperity. By the early 1870s, two figures had risen to prominence and exerted a considerable influence over the region’s economy and politics: Lawrence Murphy and James Dolan. They owned the only store in Lincoln County, a sprawling territory encompassing a fifth of the New Mexico Territory. Their enterprise, known as Murphy & Dolan Mercantile and Banking, extended beyond retail; they also owned large cattle ranches and, thanks to their connections with influential officials in Santa Fe, secured lucrative contracts with the military stationed at Fort Stanton.
This advantageous position allowed Murphy and Dolan to establish a near-monopoly over the county’s trade, effectively controlling pricing and reaping immense profits from their goods. Their influence extended to nearly every facet of the local economy, and they, along with their allies in law enforcement and other sectors, became known collectively as "The House." Their dominance, however, bred resentment among the small farmers and ranchers of Lincoln County, who were forced to pay exorbitant prices for goods while receiving meager compensation for their cattle.
The simmering discontent reached a boiling point in 1876 when a rival store, H.H. Tunstall & Company, was established by Alexander McSween and John Tunstall, challenging the established power of Murphy and Dolan. This act ignited a fierce rivalry that escalated into what became known as the Lincoln County War. For the next two years, the two factions battled for political and economic control of the region, engaging in a series of conflicts that played out in courtrooms, through cattle rustling, in deadly gunfights, and ultimately, in murder. The conflict reached a critical point on February 18, 1878, when John Tunstall was murdered. Among those who fought on the side of Tunstall and Company, a group known as the "Regulators," was a young ranch hand named Billy the Kid.
Tunstall’s murder transformed the feud into an all-out war, as his employees vowed to avenge his death and began retaliating against "The House." The Lincoln County War culminated in a five-day battle in July 1878, when the Regulators barricaded themselves inside McSween’s house and the Ellis Store. They were besieged by the Dolan faction until U.S. Troops arrived to quell the conflict. When the smoke cleared, five Regulators, including Alexander McSween, lay dead, and several others were wounded. The Dolan faction suffered one fatality and several injuries. "The House" declared victory as the Regulators fled the area, but the famous battle had made Billy the Kid a household name and a wanted fugitive.
President Rutherford B. Hayes famously declared Lincoln, New Mexico’s main street "the most dangerous street in America." In response to the escalating violence and corruption, he removed New Mexico’s Governor Axtell from office in September 1878 and appointed Lew Wallace as the new governor. Wallace also replaced the United States attorney, the sheriff, and the local military commander in an attempt to restore order. While initially considering martial law, Governor Wallace ultimately urged lawbreakers to return to peace. On November 13, 1878, he issued an amnesty for all those involved in the Lincoln County War, provided they were not already under indictment. However, this proclamation did not extend to Billy the Kid.
Now a fugitive, Billy the Kid formed a gang, known as the "Rustlers," and survived by stealing and rustling cattle. He and his gang were relentlessly pursued by Pat Garrett, especially after Governor Wallace placed a $500 reward on his head in December 1880. Garrett and his posse finally captured Billy the Kid and his gang on December 23, 1880. After a trial in Mesilla, New Mexico, in April 1881, Billy was taken to Lincoln, New Mexico, where he was scheduled to be hanged on May 13th. However, on April 28th, Billy made a daring escape, killing both of his guards while Garrett was out of town.
This escape would be his last. Garrett tracked him down to Fort Sumner, where he shot and killed the teenage outlaw on July 14, 1881, bringing an end to the saga of Billy the Kid.
During Lincoln, New Mexico’s violent heydays, the town boasted a population of over 450 residents. As the town calmed down, Lincoln continued to serve as a supply center for area ranches and mines. By 1888, its population had grown to around eight hundred. However, when the railroad bypassed Lincoln and established a station in nearby Carrizozo, the town began to decline. In 1909, it lost its county seat status to Carrizozo, further contributing to its decline.
Over the decades, the population continued to dwindle, reaching its current level of approximately 75 residents. However, remarkably, many of its historic buildings were preserved. Today, the old settlement is officially designated as the Lincoln State Monument and is the most visited state monument in New Mexico. The historic site encompasses 17 structures and outbuildings, including three museums.
The Territorial-style adobe architecture is well-represented in the buildings that line both sides of Lincoln’s mile-long Main Street. The Rio Bonito River still flows along the town’s northern boundary, adding to its scenic charm. Unlike many historic sites, Lincoln, New Mexico remains unspoiled by modern commercial development, with no gas stations or convenience stores to detract from its authentic atmosphere.
The main visitor center, located near the east end of town on the north side of the highway, showcases exhibits that highlight the roles of Apaches, Hispanics, Anglo cowboys, and Buffalo Soldiers in Lincoln’s history. It also provides a detailed account of the Lincoln County War. A brief video presentation in an old-fashioned theater further brings Lincoln’s history to life.
A highlight of Lincoln, New Mexico, is the old Lincoln County Courthouse, located on the west end of Main Street. It features exhibits about Billy the Kid’s escapades and his famous escape from the courthouse, complete with a bullet hole from the escape.
Other buildings that can be toured include the Montaño Store, the 1887 La Iglesia de San Juan-Bautista Mission, which still holds services, and the Tunstall Museum and post office, which displays original 19th-century merchandise in its original shelving and cases.
Additional historic buildings include Dolan’s old home, the defensive torreón (tower), and the Wortley Hotel, once owned by Sheriff Pat Garrett. It was at the Wortley Hotel that Deputy Ollinger had his last supper before being shot by Billy the Kid. The historic hotel now operates as an inn and restaurant. The Juan Patron House has been converted into a bed-and-breakfast.
Old Lincoln Days, held annually on the first full weekend in August, offers living history demonstrations of traditional crafts, musical programs, and food booths throughout the village. An annual folk pageant, "The Last Escape of Billy the Kid," has been presented outdoors since 1949, portraying a romanticized version of the Lincoln County War during August weekends. Other special events are scheduled throughout the year.
From about March to November, visitors can experience a four-horse-drawn Lincoln County Overland Stage ride. The morning and afternoon rides cover 5 ½ miles of an old stagecoach route from near Lincoln to the Old Fort Stanton cemetery.
Contact Information:
Lincoln State Monument
P.O. Box 36
Lincoln, New Mexico 88338
505-653-4372