Madrid, New Mexico – A Ghost Town Reborn

Nestled against the northeastern slopes of the Sandia Mountains in New Mexico lies Madrid, a captivating village with a rich and multifaceted history. Situated along the scenic Turquoise Trail National Scenic Byway, Madrid straddles the line between a living community and a ghost town. While its permanent population hovers around 400 residents, Madrid bursts with life during the summer months, drawing visitors with its unique blend of art galleries, eclectic shops, and inviting restaurants. The village’s story is one of boom and bust, of ancient traditions and modern rebirth, and of whispers of the past that linger in its very air.

The history of Madrid, New Mexico, stretches back over a millennium. As early as 1,500 years ago, indigenous peoples recognized the value of the area’s natural resources, mining turquoise and lead from the surrounding hills. These early inhabitants left their mark on the land, their lives intertwined with the rich geological tapestry of the region.

The arrival of the Spanish in 1540 marked a turning point. Initially, the Spanish conquistadors, driven by the allure of gold and silver, largely disregarded the indigenous population and their turquoise mines. However, this indifference was short-lived. Nearly a century later, the Spanish returned, their focus shifting to the exploitation of silver deposits. They forced the native people into labor, extracting the precious metal until the Pueblo Revolt of 1680, a watershed moment of resistance against colonial oppression. The Spanish reconquest followed thirteen years later, in 1693, and Spanish influence persisted.

While the dream of El Dorado continued to fuel expeditions, the Spanish also established agricultural settlements and ranches. Despite these efforts, the region remained sparsely populated until the discovery of significant coal deposits around 1835. This discovery ignited a new wave of settlement. Just five years later, placer gold was found in the San Pedro Mountains, further attracting prospectors and contributing to the nascent growth of what would become Madrid, New Mexico.

The formal establishment of the town of Madrid occurred in 1869. However, large-scale coal mining operations did not commence until the 1880s, coinciding with the arrival of the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway (Santa Fe Railroad). The fleeting gold rush had subsided, giving way to the rise of larger companies that possessed the resources to develop extensive coal mining enterprises.

By 1892, the productivity of a narrow valley known as "Coal Gulch" was so substantial that it justified the construction of a 6.5-mile spur line from the Santa Fe Railroad. This rail connection was crucial, facilitating the transport of coal to markets beyond the region and solidifying Madrid, New Mexico‘s position as a significant mining center.

The coal deposits beneath Madrid were vast, encompassing an area of approximately 30 square miles. A network of tunnels connected several mines, including the Lucas & White Ash, the Peacock, and the Cooke mines. During this period, Madrid thrived, its population exceeding 3,000 residents, even surpassing that of Albuquerque at the time.

In 1906, a pivotal moment occurred when all coal production in the area was consolidated in Madrid, New Mexico. The Albuquerque and Cerrillos Coal Company established a "company town" to support its operations and workforce, which numbered around 3,000 individuals. The company provided a comprehensive range of services to its employees, including housing, a daily supply of 160,000 gallons of water transported by tank cars, and medical care.

In 1919, Oscar Huber, who had been with the company since 1910, was promoted to Superintendent of Mines for the Albuquerque and Cerrillos Coal Company. Huber’s leadership transformed Madrid. While mining towns were often characterized by hazardous working conditions and a lack of concern for worker welfare, Huber implemented significant improvements. Under his direction, Madrid boasted paved streets, a hospital, a company store, schools, and readily available electricity in every home, powered by the company-owned power plant. Even during Prohibition, the company provided a location for residents to distill liquor, albeit illicitly.

Although the company maintained control over commerce, ensuring that miners’ wages ultimately returned to the owners, Huber’s leadership fostered a more positive environment. Madrid became a model for other mining towns. Huber also established the Employees’ Club, organizing athletic activities and town events, fostering a sense of community.

Huber’s commitment to improving the quality of life in Madrid, New Mexico extended to recreational amenities. In 1922, he built the first illuminated baseball park west of the Mississippi. This stadium became the home of the Madrid Miners, a farm team for the Brooklyn Dodgers, who played a game in the park in 1934. Remarkably, the baseball park remains in use today, a testament to Huber’s legacy.

Coal production reached its peak in 1928, with over 180,000 tons of coal shipped out of Madrid. In 1936, following the death of the owner in a mine accident, Huber acquired a controlling interest in the mine and continued to prioritize a positive working environment for his employees. When the Mineshaft Tavern, a beloved gathering place, burned down on Christmas Day in 1944, Huber rebuilt it. In 1947, he purchased the entire town of Madrid and the surrounding coal lands, further cementing his role as the town’s patriarch.

However, the prosperity of Madrid, New Mexico was not destined to last. As natural gas gained popularity as a home heating fuel, the demand for coal declined, leading to the town’s economic collapse. In 1954, the Albuquerque and Cerrillos Coal Company ceased operations, prompting most of the residents to leave in search of employment elsewhere. That same year, an advertisement appeared in the Wall Street Journal, offering the entire town for sale for $250,000. Despite this effort, no buyer emerged.

In the early 1970s, Oscar Huber’s son, Joe, who owned the entire townsite, began renting or selling some of the old company houses to artists, craftsmen, and other individuals seeking a unique and affordable place to live. This marked the beginning of Madrid’s transformation from a ghost town to an artist’s haven. As more people moved in, drawn by the town’s charm and affordability, Madrid experienced a rebirth.

Today, Madrid is a thriving arts community and a popular destination for travelers along the Turquoise Trail Scenic Byway. Its streets are lined with art galleries, studios, shops, cafes, and bed and breakfast inns, catering to the diverse interests of visitors.

The Mineshaft Tavern, a historic saloon, remains a popular stop for visitors. The tavern features the original pine and oak bar, reputedly the longest bar in New Mexico.

Madrid, New Mexico is particularly renowned for its annual Christmas lighting display. Every year, virtually every building in the town is adorned with elaborate displays of lights and nativity scenes, creating a festive and enchanting atmosphere. This tradition began in the 1920s, when the town’s coal company provided free electricity to residents. Miners were "required" to purchase a Christmas tree for the lights, an expense that reportedly amounted to about a week’s pay. Despite the cost, the tradition has endured, attracting visitors from Albuquerque, Santa Fe, and beyond.

Many of Madrid’s historic buildings have been restored or preserved, including the Miner’s Amusement Hall, the old Catholic Church, the Coal Mining Museum, storefronts, and wooden company houses. However, remnants of the town’s past can still be seen in the dilapidated buildings on the outskirts of town.

For those seeking a different kind of experience, Madrid and the surrounding area are rumored to be haunted. Numerous ghost sightings have been reported in homes, the old church, the cemetery, and the Mine Shaft Tavern. Some believe the spirit of La Llorona, the Weeping Woman, wanders the arroyos surrounding the town.

One recurring apparition is that of a silent cowboy escorting a Spanish woman down Main Street. Others have reported seeing and hearing ghostly figures in the cemetery.

The Mine Shaft Tavern is considered by many to be the most haunted location in Madrid, New Mexico. Although it burned down on Christmas Day in 1944, Oscar Huber rebuilt the tavern, reopening it in 1947. While some remodeling was completed in 1982, the historic bar remains unchanged. Staff and guests have reported glasses falling from shelves, doors opening on their own, and mysterious sounds emanating from the adobe walls. The most unsettling reports involve staff members seeing a ghost instead of their own reflection in the mirror.

Whether you believe in the paranormal or not, Madrid, New Mexico is a town with a captivating history and a unique atmosphere.

Madrid is located approximately 27 miles southwest of Santa Fe, New Mexico, on NM 14.