Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail

By Colonel Henry Inman in 1897

In the vast and historically rich landscape of New Mexico, a sprawling estate once stood as a testament to an era of frontier expansion and the larger-than-life figures who shaped it. This was Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail, an immense tract of nearly two million acres that played a significant role in the region’s development. Through this domain snaked the legendary Santa Fe Trail, a vital artery of commerce and westward migration. The ranch, and its proprietor, Lucien B. Maxwell, represent a generation of pioneers whose unique circumstances and rugged individualism are unlikely to be replicated in the modern world.

Lucien B. Maxwell, the man who would become synonymous with Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail, was born in Illinois. He arrived in New Mexico before the territory’s acquisition by the United States. He initially worked as a trapper and hunter for the American Fur Company. This company was a major player in the fur trade, and Maxwell’s association with it brought him into contact with Carlos Beaubien and Guadalupe Miranda, both influential citizens of the New Mexican province and agents of the same fur company.

The land that would eventually become Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail was initially granted to Beaubien and Miranda. As fate would have it, Maxwell’s trajectory intertwined with theirs in a profound way. He married Beaubien’s daughter, solidifying his connection to the region and its prominent families. Following the death of Guadalupe Miranda, Maxwell strategically acquired his interest in the land grant, and later, he also purchased the interests of Beaubien’s heirs. This series of acquisitions culminated in Maxwell becoming the largest single landowner in the United States, a feat that underscored his ambition and business acumen.

During the tumultuous years of the Civil War, when New Mexico found itself somewhat isolated from the concerns and control of the federal government in Washington, D.C., Lucien B. Maxwell reigned supreme over his vast domain. He lived in a style that could be described as "barbaric splendor," reminiscent of the English nobility. His influence and wealth were at their peak, allowing him to preside over his lands with a certain feudalistic flair.

The fertile valleys within Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail were cultivated primarily by native Mexicans, who worked the land under the system of peonage that was then prevalent in the Territory. While this system essentially bound laborers to the land through debt, Colonel Inman’s account suggests that Maxwell was not a harsh overseer. He employed approximately 500 men, and despite their limited freedom, they reportedly held him in high regard, viewing him as both a friend and an advisor.

Maxwell’s residence was a remarkable structure, far exceeding the typical architectural styles of the region. It was a large, spacious home, American in its overall design but infused with Mexican customs and traditions. The interior reflected a blend of opulence and practicality. Some rooms were lavishly furnished, while others were sparsely decorated, containing only a table and chairs for card games. The "Baronial Hall," the main room of the house, was relatively bare, furnished only with a few chairs, tables, and an old bureau. This room served as a gathering place for friends, a venue for business transactions, and occasionally, a site for lively celebrations.

Colonel Inman’s personal experiences at Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail provide a vivid glimpse into the ranch’s atmosphere. He recounts sleeping on the hardwood floor of the Baronial Hall, wrapped in his blanket alongside Ute warriors after a long day of hunting in the mountains. He describes evenings spent in the dim light of crackling fireplaces, observing Lucien Maxwell and Kit Carson communicating silently with Ute chiefs through the intricate sign language of the plains Indians. These scenes evoke a sense of camaraderie and cultural exchange amidst the vast wilderness of the American West.

Maxwell and Carson were known to engage in games of seven-up for hours, with Carson typically emerging as the victor. Maxwell, an avid gambler, indulged in card games and horse races for amusement rather than professional gain. He owned a stable of exceptionally fast horses and was known to wager significant sums on races, although he was often victimized by unscrupulous jockeys. Despite his fondness for gambling, Maxwell was generous and often extended financial assistance to his opponents, even after winning from them.

The dining arrangements at Maxwell’s establishment were unique, reflecting the social customs of the time. The kitchen and dining rooms were separate from the main house, with one dining room designated for men and another for women. Following strict Mexican etiquette, women were rarely seen by the male guests, their presence only hinted at by the rustle of a skirt or a fleeting glimpse of a rebozo. The table service was primarily solid silver, and the hospitable board was rarely empty.

Maxwell’s generosity and the ranch’s location near a ford on the Santa Fe Trail ensured a constant stream of visitors. The absence of bridges over the region’s unpredictable streams meant that stagecoaches were often stranded, making Maxwell’s home a welcome refuge for travelers. Covers were laid daily for approximately 30 people, accommodating both invited guests and those seeking shelter from the elements.

Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail was a constant gathering place for Native Americans. Chiefs, warriors, women, and children frequented the ranch, drawn by Maxwell’s hospitality and the allure of the goods available at the ranch’s store. They seemed to regard the ranch as their own, basking in its comforts and resources. Maxwell, in turn, tolerated their presence with graciousness, allowing them to benefit from his generosity.

The ranch’s workforce was a diverse mix of Indians, Mexicans, and individuals of mixed heritage. The kitchens were managed by native women under the guidance of experienced cooks, while the dining rooms were served by boys. Maxwell’s wealth was often kept in an unlocked drawer in an old bureau, demonstrating a remarkable level of trust and a sense of security. Despite the presence of large sums of money, Maxwell seemed unconcerned about theft, famously stating that anyone who attempted to rob him would face severe consequences.

Maxwell’s wealth stemmed from his extensive holdings of cattle, sheep, and cultivated land. He supplied the U.S. Army with barley, oats, and corn. His wool clip was substantial, reflecting the size of his herds. He owned an estimated 1,000 horses, 10,000 cattle, and 40,000 sheep. The ranch also operated a large gristmill, which generated significant revenue from the processing of wheat.

Maxwell enjoyed traveling throughout the Territory, using a variety of vehicles ranging from simple buckboards to luxurious Concord coaches. He was known for his reckless driving, often navigating rough terrain at high speeds, yet he rarely suffered serious accidents.

The Ute Indian Agency was once located at Maxwell’s Ranch, and a cavalry company was stationed there. However, the primary purpose of the military presence was to impress the Plains tribes rather than to control the Ute, who held Maxwell in high regard.

A tragic incident occurred on July 4, 1867, when Maxwell and a troop captain attempted to fire an old howitzer. The gun discharged prematurely, resulting in severe injuries to both men. The captain lost an eye and an arm, while Maxwell suffered a shattered thumb. A sergeant was dispatched to Fort Union for medical assistance, riding one of the ranch’s fastest horses to its death.

The surgeon at Fort Union amputated Maxwell’s thumb, with Kit Carson in attendance to provide support. After recovering, Maxwell returned to his ranch, and Carson returned to Taos. Carson later died at Fort Lyon, Colorado.

Colonel Inman reflects on his youthful perception of Kit Carson as a larger-than-life figure, contrasting it with the reality of a wiry, unassuming man. He recounts an incident at Fort Union where a sensationalized illustration of Carson’s exploits in a newspaper elicited a humorous response from the frontiersman himself.

The discovery of gold on Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail ultimately led to Maxwell’s financial decline. The influx of prospectors and the failure of a large-scale irrigation project contributed to his economic woes. Although copper had been known to exist in the region, the discovery of gold sparked a rush that transformed the landscape and the ranch’s fortunes.

Before his death, Maxwell furnished cattle to the Ute tribe under a contract with the Interior Department. Colonel Inman describes witnessing a cattle distribution, during which his horse was deliberately chosen to be one unfamiliar with Native Americans, resulting in a chaotic and humorous ride through the stampeding herd.

Inman recounts a memorable night spent in the Raton Mountains with Maxwell and Carson, during which Maxwell shared a harrowing tale of survival after being ambushed by Ute warriors in 1847. The story highlights the dangers and hardships faced by those who traversed the American West.

Colonel Henry Inman’s account of Maxwell Ranch on the Santa Fe Trail offers a captivating glimpse into a bygone era, populated by larger-than-life figures, sprawling landscapes, and the enduring spirit of the American frontier. It stands as a testament to the complex interplay of cultures, the pursuit of wealth, and the enduring legacy of the Santa Fe Trail.