Nicodemus, Kansas – A Black Pioneer Town
Nestled in the rolling plains of Graham County, Kansas, lies Nicodemus, a testament to the enduring spirit of African American pioneers. This town, the only remaining western community established by African Americans after the Civil War, stands as a powerful symbol of resilience, hope, and the pursuit of true freedom. More than just a collection of buildings, Nicodemus, Kansas represents a significant chapter in American history, embodying the dreams and struggles of formerly enslaved people seeking a new life in the West. Today, designated as a National Historic Site, Nicodemus, Kansas offers a glimpse into the lives of those who dared to build a community against all odds.
The story of Nicodemus, Kansas begins in the tumultuous aftermath of the Civil War. While Reconstruction promised equality and prosperity for the newly freed slaves, the reality in the South was far different. Racial oppression, crippling poverty, and pervasive debt continued to plague African Americans, leaving many feeling trapped in a cycle of despair. It was in this climate of unrest that the seeds of migration to Kansas were sown.
Enter W.R. Hill, a white land developer from Indiana, and Reverend W.H. Smith, a Black minister. Together, they formed the Nicodemus Town Company in 1877, envisioning a haven for African Americans in the sparsely populated territories of Kansas. Hill painted a picture of a "Promise Land" – a place where land was abundant, wild game roamed free, and the opportunity to own property through homesteading was within reach. Reverend Smith, acting as President of the Town Company, lent his credibility and influence to the endeavor, further encouraging migration.
The town was named after Nicodemus, a legendary figure believed to have arrived in America on a slave ship and later purchased his freedom. This name resonated deeply with potential settlers, symbolizing the possibility of self-determination and liberation. Reverend Simon P. Roundtree became the first settler, arriving in June 1877. Shortly after, Zack T. Fletcher and his wife, Jenny Smith Fletcher (Reverend Smith’s daughter), joined him, with Fletcher taking on the role of secretary of the Town Company. These initial pioneers claimed their land and began constructing rudimentary homes, often dugouts carved into the prairie, laying the foundation for the community to come.
The promise of a better life proved irresistible. In the late summer of 1877, over 300 railroad tickets were purchased for families in the South, transporting them to Ellis, Kansas, the closest rail point to their destination. However, the journey was far from over. From Ellis, these families embarked on a grueling 35-mile trek to Nicodemus, arriving in September 1877. Despite the hardships, their arrival marked a significant milestone, signifying the beginning of a vibrant community. Within a month, Charles & Emma Williams welcomed the first black child born in Graham County.
Life in early Nicodemus, Kansas was a constant struggle against the elements. The settlers, accustomed to the lush landscapes of Kentucky and Tennessee, were met with a starkly different reality – a vast, treeless prairie. Building homes along the Solomon River, they faced adverse weather conditions and lacked essential resources like tools, seeds, and money. The first winter was particularly harsh, testing the resilience of the community. Some survived by selling buffalo bones, others by finding work with the Kansas Pacific Railroad in Ellis. Crucially, the Osage Indians provided invaluable assistance, offering food, firewood, and other essential supplies.
Despite the challenges, the spirit of the settlers remained unbroken. While some, disillusioned by the harsh conditions, returned to the familiar landscapes of the South, the majority persevered, driven by the hope of building a better future. The spring of 1878 brought renewed hope as the new settlers began to farm the soil, planting the seeds of their dreams.
That spring also saw an influx of new families from the South, bolstering the population and further solidifying the community. A local government was established, led by "President Smith," to provide structure and leadership. One woman, Williana Hickman, recounted her arrival at Nicodemus, her initial disappointment giving way to determination: "When we got in sight of Nicodemus, the men shouted, ‘There is Nicodemus!’ Being very sick, I hailed this news with gladness. I looked with all the eyes I had. I said, ‘Where is Nicodemus? I don’t see it.’ My husband pointed out various smokes coming out of the ground and said, ‘That is Nicodemus.’ The families lived in dugouts… The scenery was not at all inviting, and I began to cry." Despite her initial reaction, Williana and her husband, Reverend Daniel Hickman, remained, establishing the Mt. Olive Baptist Church four miles west of Nicodemus, initially in a dugout with a sod structure. By 1880, a small, one-room stone sanctuary replaced the dugout.
The Nicodemus Town Company actively promoted the town, distributing circulars inviting "Colored People of the United States" to settle in the "Great Solomon Valley." Reverend Roundtree collaborated with Benjamin "Pap" Singleton, a Black carpenter from Nashville, who became a tireless advocate for migration, distributing circulars far and wide. Singleton, despite being illiterate, was so effective in his efforts that he earned the nickname "Moses of the Colored Exodus." The Black refugees who chose to emigrate became known as "Exodusters," a term that captured their journey towards a new life in Kansas.
Kansas held a special significance for the Exodusters, associated as it was with the Underground Railroad and the abolitionist John Brown. The promise of Black self-government in Nicodemus, coupled with the railroads’ need to populate the West and create markets for their services, fueled the migration. Railroad companies often exaggerated the qualities of the soil and climate, portraying the region as a "Western Eden."
Zachary Fletcher, one of the town’s earliest settlers, emerged as a key figure in Nicodemus. He became the first postmaster and entrepreneur, establishing the St. Francis Hotel and a livery stable in 1880. His wife, Jenny Smith Fletcher, served as the first postmistress and schoolteacher, and was one of the original charter members of the African Methodist Episcopal Church. The Fletcher-Switzer House, which housed the post office, school, hotel, and stable, became a central hub of activity in the community, and it stands to this day as a testament to their contributions.
By 1880, Nicodemus, Kansas boasted a population of nearly 500 residents and a thriving commercial center, including a bank, two hotels, three churches, a newspaper, a drug store, and three general stores, surrounded by twelve square miles of cultivated land. Governor John St. John initially welcomed the new arrivals, but later, influenced by concerns about being "overrun" with black immigrants, discouraged further migration, claiming that conditions in Kansas were not as promising as portrayed.
Edward P. McCabe, who arrived in 1878, became the first African American to hold a major state office, serving two terms as state auditor from 1883 to 1887, further demonstrating the community’s potential for advancement.
By 1887, Nicodemus had expanded, adding more churches, stores, a literary society, an ice cream parlor, a lawyer, another newspaper, a baseball team, a benefit society, and a band. Hopes soared when the railroad considered extending its line from Stockton to Nicodemus. The voters approved a bond issue to attract the Union Pacific Railroad. However, disagreements over financial compensation led to the railroad withdrawing its offer. In 1888, the railroad established its extension six miles south of the Solomon River, effectively isolating Nicodemus. Businesses migrated to the railroad camp, which eventually became the town of Bogue, marking the beginning of Nicodemus’ long decline.
After the railroad failed to materialize, Zachary Fletcher sold his town lots back to W. R. Hill, but continued to operate his businesses. Eventually, the hotel reverted to Graham County for a time, but was reclaimed by the family in the 1920s when Fred Switzer, Fletcher’s great-nephew, married Ora Wellington and made the hotel their home.
In 1928, the farmers of Nicodemus, Kansas were cultivating extensive lands, with some farming up to one thousand acres. During favorable seasons, the land yielded abundant wheat crops.
However, the Great Depression in 1929 brought economic devastation to Nicodemus, causing farm prices to plummet and prompting many young people to leave the area in search of opportunities elsewhere.
Severe droughts in 1932, 1933, and 1934, followed by the Dust Bowl days of 1935, further compounded the town’s woes. Entire families abandoned the unproductive region, seeking refuge from the dust storms and economic hardship.
By 1935, the population of Nicodemus had dwindled to just 76 residents, and the town supported only a church, a hall, and a small store. Most of the trading was conducted in nearby Bogue.
In 1938, a community center was built using locally quarried limestone as a Works Progress Administration project during the Great Depression. Today, the center houses a National Park Service ranger, historical displays, and a gift shop.
By 1950, the population had fallen to 16, and the post office closed in 1953.
While numerous Black settlements emerged in Kansas after the Civil War, Nicodemus was the only one to endure. Designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1976 and a National Historic Site in 1996, Nicodemus stands as a testament to the resilience and determination of its founders. The National Park Service actively assists the community in preserving its historic structures and interpreting its history for future generations.
Today, Nicodemus, Kansas is home to approximately 20 people. The Nicodemus Historical Society Museum operates with sporadic hours, while the Nicodemus Community Center offers pamphlets, walking tour maps, and video presentations.
Each year, during the last weekend of July, Emancipation Day is celebrated, drawing descendants of the original settlers back to their ancestral home. The town comes alive with a parade, food, and a celebration of heritage and family.
Located 55 miles northwest of Hays, Kansas, on Highway 24 between Hill City and Stockton, Nicodemus, Kansas offers a unique opportunity to step back in time and learn about the remarkable story of a Black pioneer town.