Oatman Highway, Arizona – Legends of America
The Oatman Highway, a stretch of the historic Route 66, is more than just a road; it’s a journey through time, a testament to the spirit of the American West, and a scenic drive that offers breathtaking views and intriguing historical landmarks. As travelers embark on this iconic route south of Kingman, Arizona, they are immediately greeted by the stark beauty of the desert landscape, characterized by scattered, humble dwellings and the ubiquitous yucca plants. However, this initial simplicity quickly gives way to a dramatic ascent into the rugged mountains, where the road begins to reveal its true character.
Cool Springs Camp: A Resurrected Oasis
The first notable stop along the Oatman Highway is Cool Springs Camp, a roadside haven that has undergone a remarkable transformation. Today, it stands as a gleaming tribute to its past, but it wasn’t always this way. Not long ago, this once-thriving camp had fallen into complete disrepair, a forgotten relic of a bygone era.
Originally built in 1926, Cool Springs Camp was a vital stop for travelers along Route 66, offering a combination of essential services and comforting amenities. It housed a café where weary drivers could grab a bite to eat, and a Mobil Oil Station where they could check and replenish their vehicles’ oil, water, and gas. Strategically located just before the challenging Goldroad grade, the camp provided a welcome respite for those preparing to tackle the steep climb.
In the 1930s, James Walker moved his family from Huntington, Indiana, to take over the operation of Cool Springs Camp. Under his stewardship, the camp expanded and improved, with the addition of eight tourist cabins to accommodate overnight guests. However, the Walkers’ marriage eventually dissolved, leaving Mrs. Walker and her children to manage the camp on their own.
Despite the personal challenges, Cool Springs Camp continued to flourish. Mrs. Walker remarried a man named Floyd Spidell, and after World War II, as travel surged in popularity, the camp became renowned for its delicious chicken dinners, a culinary delight that attracted countless travelers making their way to California.
However, the construction of the Yucca Bypass in the early 1950s dealt a severe blow to Cool Springs Camp and the nearby town of Oatman. The bypass diverted traffic away from the traditional route, effectively turning Oatman into a ghost town and diminishing the camp’s importance as a roadside stop.
Over time, the Spidells divorced, and Floyd was left to run the camp on his own. In 1957, his niece, Nancy Schoenherr, and her husband, Chuck, joined him, and they continued to operate the camp despite the dwindling traffic. However, in 1966, tragedy struck when a fire completely destroyed Cool Springs Camp, leaving behind only the remnants of its stone foundations. For decades, the site remained abandoned and neglected, a haunting reminder of its former glory.
In 1991, the camp was briefly resurrected for the movie "Universal Soldier," only to be blown up again shortly after filming. It seemed as though Cool Springs Camp was destined to remain a forgotten ruin.
However, in 2001, a new chapter began when Ned and Michelle Leuchtner purchased the property and embarked on a delicate restoration project. With the help of builder Dennis DeChenne, Ned meticulously rebuilt the Cool Springs Camp station based on old photographs, carefully preserving its historical character.
In 2004, Cool Springs Camp reopened to a new generation of Route 66 enthusiasts, featuring a gift shop and museum that showcase the camp’s rich history. Today, a stop at Cool Springs is a must for anyone traveling the Oatman Highway, offering photo opportunities, refreshments, and a chance to immerse oneself in the nostalgia of the Mother Road.
Ed’s Camp: A Crumbling Relic
A mile down the road from Cool Springs, travelers will encounter the remains of Ed’s Camp, a roadside stop that has not fared as well. The camp belonged to Ed Edgerton, a miner who arrived in the area in 1917. When Route 66 was established, he decided to build a trading post on his property, laying the foundation for what he hoped would be a successful business.
However, as traffic rapidly increased, Ed decided to expedite the construction process. He put a roof over the foundation, declaring, "The hell with the building; we will leave it open." And so, Ed’s open-air trading post was born.
Over time, the camp expanded to include the Kactus Kafe, a gas station, and several cabins. However, today, Ed’s Camp sits lonely and abandoned, piled high with iron bed frames, rocks, old tires, railroad ties, and other debris. Despite its dilapidated condition, there is a residence nearby, and the entire area is heavily posted with "no trespassing" signs.
Across Route 66 from the camp, on the rocky hillside, the large white letters spelling "ED’S CAMP" can still be seen, a faded reminder of the camp’s former presence.
Sitgreaves Pass: A Test of Courage and Skill
Beyond Ed’s Camp, the Oatman Highway truly lives up to its reputation as a challenging and scenic route. The road becomes narrow and steep as it winds its way along Sitgreaves Pass, ascending to an elevation of 3,550 feet as it traverses the Black Mountains.
The pass was named in honor of Captain Lorenzo Sitgreaves, who led a combined American scientific and military expedition to explore the Zuni River, the Little Colorado River, and the Colorado River in 1851. The expedition, which set out from northern New Mexico, traveled west across Arizona and south along the Colorado River to Fort Yuma in California, was tasked with mapping the riverways and determining their navigability for river steamers.
As travelers climb toward Sitgreaves Pass, the narrow road makes numerous hairpin turns and hugs the mountainside, with no shoulders and few guardrails. In the early days of Route 66, when vehicles had limited power, the only way to ascend the 3,550-foot grade was sometimes by driving in reverse. This unconventional technique solved the problem of early gravity-fed fuel systems, which struggled to provide adequate fuel on steep inclines.
For those who lacked the daring or skill to navigate the pass on their own, there were other options. Some hired a team of horses to pull their Model Ts to the summit, while others relied on wreckers who specialized in hauling stranded motorists over the pass, no doubt earning a tidy profit in the process. Some flatlanders, intimidated by the steep incline and winding road, even paid locals to drive their cars over the summit for them.
Upon reaching the summit of Sitgreaves Pass, travelers are rewarded with a breathtaking view of the surrounding area. A pull-off provides a perfect vantage point to soak in the panoramic scenery and appreciate the natural beauty of the Black Mountains.
Beyond the summit, the Oatman Highway continues its descent, and travelers will begin to see signs of old mining operations and the active Gold Road mine before reaching the town of Oatman. This historic town, with its Old West charm and guaranteed fun-filled day, beckons visitors to experience the spirit of Route 66.
The Oatman Highway is more than just a road; it’s a journey through time, a testament to the spirit of the American West, and a scenic drive that offers breathtaking views and intriguing historical landmarks. From the resurrected oasis of Cool Springs Camp to the crumbling relic of Ed’s Camp and the challenging ascent of Sitgreaves Pass, the Oatman Highway is a must-see destination for anyone seeking to experience the magic of Route 66.