Old Franklin, Missouri & the Start of the Santa Fe Trail
Nestled along the fertile banks of the Missouri River, the story of Old Franklin, Missouri, is one etched in ambition, innovation, and the relentless march of westward expansion. Emerging from the burgeoning landscape of the early 19th century, this once-thriving settlement played a pivotal role in shaping the American West, most notably as the inaugural eastern terminus of the legendary Santa Fe Trail. Today, little remains of this ambitious town, swallowed by the unforgiving currents of the river that once fueled its prosperity. Yet, its legacy endures as a testament to the spirit of enterprise and the allure of the frontier.
The genesis of Old Franklin can be traced back to the aftermath of the War of 1812. As the nation turned its gaze westward, the Boone’s Lick Trail became a vital artery for emigration into the heart of central Missouri. In 1816, the first settlement in Howard County took root, christened Franklin in honor of the esteemed Founding Father, Benjamin Franklin. Situated approximately half a mile west of the modern-day Boonville Bridge, along what is now Missouri Highway 87, the nascent town quickly distinguished itself as a hub of activity and a beacon of opportunity.
By 1817, Franklin had ascended to the position of county seat for Howard County, solidifying its administrative importance. While the machinery of governance was taking shape, it wasn’t until 1821 that the town established its first official post office, further integrating it into the national network. A testament to its intellectual vigor, the Missouri Intelligencer and Boonslick Advertiser began publication in 1819, marking a significant milestone as the first newspaper printed west of the Mississippi River. The town’s rapid growth was further reflected in its meticulously planned layout, boasting a public square spanning two acres and streets a generous 87 feet in width. Within a mere four years of its founding, Old Franklin had blossomed into a substantial settlement, comprising an estimated 200 to 300 buildings. These structures housed a diverse array of establishments, including five general stores catering to the needs of settlers, a tobacco factory capitalizing on the region’s agricultural potential, two academies fostering education, a bustling market house, several churches serving the spiritual needs of the community, four warehouses facilitating trade, a jail ensuring law and order, and even a public library demonstrating a commitment to intellectual pursuits.
However, the true essence of Old Franklin lay not just in its physical infrastructure, but in the remarkable individuals who populated its streets. Lawyers, scholars, doctors, teachers, businessmen, and artists flocked to the town, creating a vibrant tapestry of talent and ambition. This concentration of intellect and enterprise fueled Franklin’s aspirations to become a major player in the region, even positioning itself as a formidable rival to the established metropolis of St. Louis. When the time came to select a location for the new state’s capital, Franklin emerged as a strong contender, showcasing its political and economic influence.
Among the notable residents of Old Franklin was Captain William Becknell, a name synonymous with the Santa Fe Trail. Revered as the "Father of the Santa Fe Trail," Becknell resided on a farm a few miles northwest of Franklin, near a spring known as Boone’s Lick. This spring, discovered by Daniel and Nathan Boone, sons of the legendary Daniel Boone, had previously been the site of a salt production operation managed by Becknell.
Another prominent figure in Franklin’s history was Thomas Hardeman, a man of refined tastes and horticultural expertise. Hardeman meticulously cultivated a flower garden and fruit orchard on his property, transforming it into a spectacle of unparalleled beauty and luxuriance. His Fruitage Farm, encompassing nine acres, showcased an elaborate English garden adorned with exotic plants, ornamental shrubs, and a diverse collection of fruits sourced from around the globe. This horticultural marvel became one of central Missouri’s premier attractions, drawing visitors from far and wide, including Henry Shaw, who would later establish his renowned botanical garden in St. Louis. Beyond his passion for agriculture, Hardeman also held a stake in a Franklin general store and operated a ferry service connecting his farm to Arrow Rock, situated on the opposite bank of the river.
The year 1821 marked a turning point in the history of Old Franklin and the American West. William Becknell, driven by entrepreneurial spirit, placed an advertisement in the Missouri Intelligencer, announcing his intention to assemble a party for an expedition "westward, to trade for horses and mules and catch wild animals of every description." On September 1, 1821, Becknell and his group embarked on their journey, crossing the Missouri River at Arrow Rock. Following portions of the Osage Trace, they ventured into uncharted territory, forging a path that would eventually become known as the Santa Fe Trail. The success of this initial expedition, marked by substantial profits, paved the way for Becknell to undertake numerous subsequent trips to Santa Fe and other destinations in New Mexico over the ensuing years.
The goods that these intrepid traders transported to Santa Fe, primarily consisting of dry goods, cutlery, and light hardware, were typically sourced from outfits in Franklin. These supplies were transported from the eastern states via the Ohio River to St. Louis and then brought to Franklin via the Boone’s Lick Road. More frequently, however, goods were transported up the Missouri River in keelboats and, later, in steamboats that docked at Kingsbury Landing in Franklin. In 1819, the Independence made history as the first steamboat to navigate the Missouri River, docking at Kingsbury Landing in Franklin.
Franklin served as the county seat of Howard County until 1823, when the seat of government was relocated to Fayette, a more geographically central location. During its zenith, from 1823 to 1825, Franklin’s population was estimated to be between 1500 and 1700 people, reflecting its status as a thriving commercial and cultural hub.
Adding to the town’s colorful history, a young Kit Carson resided near Becknell, on land owned by the Boone brothers. Carson, who would later achieve legendary status as a frontiersman and guide, moved to Franklin with his family at the tender age of two. Tragedy struck when Carson was just eight years old, as his father was killed. Forced into poverty, Kit left school to work on the family farm and engaged in hunting to supplement their income. Despite their challenging circumstances, Carson’s mother diligently cared for her children until she remarried four years later. At the age of 14, Kit began an apprenticeship at Workman’s Saddleshop in Franklin. By this time, the Santa Fe Trail had been in operation for two years, and Carson was captivated by the stories shared by the trappers and traders who frequented the shop. Dissatisfied with his apprenticeship and struggling to connect with his stepfather, Carson secretly signed on with a large merchant caravan bound for Santa Fe at the age of 16, arriving at his destination in November 1826.
Despite its early promise and rapid growth, Old Franklin was ultimately destined for a tragic end. In 1826 and 1828, a series of devastating floods struck the town, unleashing the full force of the Missouri River. The town, built on a sandy foundation, proved no match for the relentless currents. The river eroded the banks, causing houses and buildings to collapse into the water. In a short span of time, little remained of the once-thriving town or Hardeman’s famed gardens.
In 1828, the residents of Franklin established New Franklin on higher ground, located northeast of the original townsite. Many of Franklin’s inhabitants migrated to the new town, while others relocated to the county seat of Fayette. Despite the abandonment of Old Franklin, the U.S. Land Office remained in operation there until 1831.
As westward expansion continued and the Santa Fe Trail gained prominence, the trail’s starting point gradually shifted westward to locations such as Lexington, Fort Osage Landing, and Liberty Landing. By the time Franklin was abandoned, the trail’s eastern terminus had moved further west, leaving the town behind.
By the early 20th century, virtually nothing remained of Old Franklin, save for a few scattered foundations. Even these remnants were washed away by a catastrophic flood in 1993, along with the Santa Fe Trail Marker, erasing almost all physical traces of the town.
Today, the historic site of Old Franklin lies north of the Missouri River in Boonville, Missouri. The Santa Fe Trail, which in this area followed the same route as the Osage Trace, extended westward towards Fort Osage, closely paralleling the approximate route of Missouri Highway 87 for several miles west of the former townsite. The story of Old Franklin serves as a poignant reminder of the ephemeral nature of frontier settlements and the enduring power of the westward movement in shaping the American identity.