Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana
The Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, stands as a formidable monument to the turbulent history of law and order in the American West. More than just a collection of cells and artifacts, it’s a tangible journey back in time, offering a chillingly realistic glimpse into the lives of those who were confined within its imposing walls. From its inception as a territorial penitentiary to its current role as a preserved historical site, the Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana tells a compelling story of crime, punishment, and the evolution of the justice system in a burgeoning state.
The narrative of this institution is inextricably linked to the explosive growth and untamed nature of Montana during the gold rush era. As prospectors flocked to the region in the 1860s, drawn by the promise of striking it rich, so too did a less desirable element: outlaws, thieves, and murderers. For several years, the Montana Vigilantes, a self-appointed group of citizens, took it upon themselves to enforce a semblance of order. However, as the territory matured, it became evident that a more structured and official system of law enforcement was necessary.
In response to this growing need, the Montana Territorial Legislature petitioned the United States Congress for funds to construct a prison during the winter session of 1866-67. Congress recognized the urgency of the request and approved the funding, selecting Deer Lodge as the site for the new Territorial Prison. This decision marked a pivotal moment in Montana’s development, signaling a transition from vigilante justice to a more formalized legal framework.
Construction of the Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, commenced in the spring of 1870, utilizing convict labor. The use of inmate labor, while controversial by modern standards, was a common practice at the time, aimed at reducing costs and providing a form of forced rehabilitation. The first inmate arrived on July 2, 1871, marking the official opening of the prison.
However, the initial funding proved insufficient, leading to revisions in the original plans and subsequent delays. Almost immediately, the facility was deemed inadequate and overcrowded, a condition that would plague the prison for much of its operational history. This constant state of overcrowding necessitated ongoing construction and expansion efforts, which continued sporadically over the next five decades.
When Montana achieved statehood on November 8, 1889, the responsibility for the prison shifted from the federal government to the state. Burdened by the high costs of operation, the Board of Prison Commissioners made a significant decision in 1890: they contracted out the entire operation of the prison to private individuals. Colonel Thomas McTague and Frank Conley, both residents of Deer Lodge, were awarded the contract, receiving seventy cents per prisoner per day.
Frank Conley’s influence on the Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, cannot be overstated. He became the warden in 1890, a position he held until 1921, shaping the prison’s philosophy, appearance, and daily operations for over three decades. Conley believed that prisoners should be actively engaged in work, both for their own rehabilitation and to offset the costs of their incarceration.
One of Conley’s most significant contributions was the replacement of the original twelve-foot wooden fence with a massive sandstone wall in 1893. This imposing wall, measuring four and a half feet thick, provided a formidable and secure perimeter for the prison, visually reinforcing its role as a place of confinement and punishment. He also initiated the construction of a new log cell house to alleviate the persistent problem of overcrowding.
Conley’s commitment to prisoner labor extended beyond the prison walls. He established outside prison camps, where inmates were "hired out" for both public and private work. These camps, housing approximately 75 prisoners each, offered a relatively high degree of freedom, with inmates not typically subjected to chains or cells. However, this privilege was contingent upon good behavior, and any infraction of the rules would result in immediate return to the confines of the prison.
By the second decade of the twentieth century, roughly half of the prison’s inmate population was engaged in outside work. These prisoners contributed significantly to Montana’s infrastructure, constructing numerous state buildings, paving over five hundred miles of roads, and working on eleven different ranches that supplied food for state-owned institutions.
The Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, witnessed a particularly tragic event in 1908. Two prisoners, George Rock and William Hayes, attempted to escape from the Federal Building. Their failed attempt resulted in the death of Deputy Warden John Robinson, and Warden Frank Conley sustained serious stab wounds, requiring 103 stitches to close. As a consequence, both Rock and Hayes were executed within the prison yard, becoming the only inmates to suffer capital punishment at the facility.
Amidst the stories of violence and escape attempts, the Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, also preserves tales of more nuanced characters. Pete Eitner, nicknamed "Turkey Pete," was one such individual. Convicted of murder in 1918 at the age of 40, Eitner proved to be a model prisoner. He was assigned to tend to the prison’s turkeys, a role that earned him his memorable nickname.
As Turkey Pete aged, his mental faculties began to decline. One day, he sold his entire flock of turkeys to a passerby for 25 cents each, effectively ending his turkey-tending career. He then developed a fantasy of owning and managing the prison himself. Prison officials, recognizing his harmless nature, indulged his delusions, allowing him to "run" the prison from his cell. Fake checks were printed for him, which he used to "pay" the prison’s expenses and payroll. He would often regale anyone who would listen with fantastical stories of owning the coffee crop in Brazil, selling pink alligators, ships to the navy, and grasshopper legs to Fidel Castro.
When Turkey Pete died in 1967 at the age of 89, his cell, Cell #1, was retired in his honor. His funeral was the only one ever held within the prison walls, a testament to the unique connection he had forged with both inmates and staff. Today, Cell #1 serves as a memorial to Turkey Pete, displaying photos and a few of his personal belongings.
Inside the prison walls, construction continued over the years, with the addition of a women’s prison, additional dormitories for men, a store building, a laundry, and a dining room. In 1919, a 1,000-seat prison theater was built, funded by a donation from Senator William A. Clark, Jr.
However, by the 1920s, protests from labor unions and growing security concerns led to the cessation of outside work programs. Food production continued at the thirty-thousand-acre prison-owned ranch, and work inside the prison persisted in various industries, including cobbler and upholstery shops, a garment industry that made clothes for state wards, and a state license plate factory, which began production in the late 1920s.
Despite Warden Conley’s improvements, the Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, continued to struggle with overcrowding throughout the decades. This persistent problem ultimately contributed to a significant riot on April 16, 1959. Led by inmates Jerry Myles and Lee Smart, Jr., the riot resulted in the death of Deputy Warden Theodore Rothe and the temporary holding of Warden Powell as a hostage. The hostages were held for three days as the riot raged on. The National Guard was eventually called in to quell the uprising, and the two ringleaders died in a murder-suicide, with Myles shooting Smart before turning the gun on himself.
Finally, in 1979, the old and overcrowded prison was closed, and its prisoners were transferred to a new facility located five miles west of Deer Lodge. The Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, stood empty, a silent sentinel to justice.
The Powell County Museum and Arts Foundation obtained the lease for the building and transformed it into a museum. After restoration and the construction of a visitor center, the complex reopened in 1980, welcoming over 40,000 visitors annually.
Today, the Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, is listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. Visitors can take guided or self-guided tours through the prison’s buildings, experiencing the daily life of prison routines. Informational signs provide details of prison life, and tourists can see original schedules, rules, prisoner artwork, and even decaying blankets on the iron cots in the prison cells. Exhibits showcase contraband items, homemade weapons, guns, shackles, and restraints used on the convicts.
Evidence of the 1959 riot can still be seen in the broken bricks of the west tower. Visitors can tour cramped blackout cells and view the gallows where capital offenders were hanged. Although the guard towers are no longer occupied, and the sounds of cell doors sliding shut no longer echo through the buildings, a visit to the Old Prison Museum in Deer Lodge, Montana, offers a chilling and unforgettable glimpse into a dark chapter of Montana’s history.
The Old Montana Prison Museum is one of several museums sponsored by the Powell County Museum and Arts Foundation in Deer Lodge, Montana. Other attractions include the Frontier Museum, Desert John’s Saloon Museum, the Powell County Museum, the Montana Auto Museum, Yesterday’s Playthings, and Cottonwood City.