Pawnee County, Kansas on the Santa Fe Trail
Pawnee County, Kansas, a landscape etched with the indelible marks of history, holds a significant place in the narrative of the Santa Fe Trail. This vital artery of commerce and westward expansion carved its way across the rolling plains of Kansas, and Pawnee County served as a crucial crossroads, offering travelers both opportunities and challenges. As the trail snaked through this region, pioneers, traders, soldiers, and adventurers faced a pivotal decision: choosing between the "Wet Route," a path abundant in water and grazing, and the "Dry Route," a shorter but more arid alternative. This article explores the segments of the Santa Fe Trail that traversed Pawnee County, highlighting key landmarks, historical events, and the lasting legacy of this iconic route.
The Santa Fe Trail’s journey through Pawnee County presented westward-bound travelers with a critical juncture. West of Pawnee Rock, the trail diverged, presenting the choice between the "Wet Route" and the "Dry Route." The "Wet Route" was favored for its reliable water sources and ample grazing lands, essential for sustaining large herds of livestock. This route was particularly attractive to wagon trains laden with goods, as the animals needed constant replenishment. Conversely, the "Dry Route" offered a more direct path, reducing travel time, but at the cost of scarce water resources. This option was often preferred by smaller groups or those prioritizing speed over comfort. The decision between these routes significantly impacted the journey, shaping the experiences and challenges faced by those venturing westward. This section of the Santa Fe Trail ran southwest of Pawnee Rock in Ash Creek Crossing to Fort Dodge.
Near present-day Larned, Kansas, the Santa Fe Trail further divided into three distinct trails, with connecting branches leading toward Dodge City. The "Wet Route," also known as the River Road crossing, skirted the southern edge of modern-day Larned. A second, the "Dry Route" crossing, lay on the western periphery of the Larned State Hospital grounds. The third, believed to have been established later as a stage line crossing, was situated approximately half a mile east of the current Fort Larned National Historic Site. These multiple routes highlight the evolving nature of the trail, adapting to changing needs, settlement patterns, and transportation technologies. The convergence and divergence of these paths created a complex network of routes, each with its own unique character and challenges, further cementing Pawnee County’s significance in the Santa Fe Trail narrative.
The Wet Route in Pawnee County
The "Wet Route," aptly named for its proximity to the Arkansas River, offered a lifeline to travelers and their animals. This route closely parallels U.S. Highway 56, following the Arkansas River southwest of Larned towards present-day Kinsley. From Dodge City westward, the route continued along the Arkansas River to Bent’s Fort in Colorado, becoming known as the "Mountain Route." The availability of water and grazing along this path made it a popular choice, albeit one that could be slower due to the meandering river and potential for muddy conditions. The landscape along the "Wet Route" was characterized by the fertile river valley, providing sustenance and respite for weary travelers.
The first notable stop along the "Wet Route" within Pawnee County was Ash Creek Crossing, located approximately five miles southwest of Pawnee Rock. While not a particularly difficult crossing, it evolved into a popular campsite for those traversing the Santa Fe Trail. The site provided a welcome opportunity for rest and replenishment before continuing the journey westward. Ironically, in 1947, the farmer who owned the land filled in the crossing to expand his farmland, erasing a tangible piece of the trail’s history.
Continuing along the "Wet Route," travelers would eventually reach the area of present-day Larned. Here, at 502 West 2nd Street, lies Sibley’s Camp, the historic site where the United States Survey team, led by George Sibley, camped during the Santa Fe Trail Survey Expedition on August 31, 1825. This location marks an early point in the formal exploration and mapping of the trail, highlighting the government’s interest in facilitating westward expansion and trade. The campsite serves as a reminder of the meticulous surveying efforts that laid the groundwork for the trail’s subsequent use.
Further along the route, travelers were required to cross the Pawnee Fork, near the U.S. Highway 56 bridge crossing of the Pawnee River. The original crossing site has been altered by railroad and highway construction, but the steep banks remain, a testament to the challenges it once posed. Historical accounts describe the east bank as being 20-30 feet above the water level, requiring significant effort to navigate. Even the west bank, while less steep, necessitated extra manpower and teams to assist wagons in ascending. The Pawnee Fork Crossing stands as a physical reminder of the natural obstacles that pioneers had to overcome.
The "Wet Route" continued westward to Coon Creek, crossing approximately 1 ½ miles west of Garfield, Kansas, on the north side of U.S. Highway 56, east of the Coon Creek Bridge. This crossing could be particularly challenging, and the surrounding area was known for frequent encounters with Native American tribes. Wagon ruts, still visible on the creek’s north bank, serve as tangible evidence of the countless journeys made along this path.
Beyond the Coon Creek Bridge, about four miles further, lay Plain Camp, a site marked for its lack of distinguishing features. Located approximately ½ mile south of the marker, this seemingly unremarkable location provided a resting spot for weary travelers. Its very anonymity underscores the relentless nature of the journey, where even the most basic campsite offered a brief respite from the arduous trek.
Approximately 9 ½ miles southwest of Garfield lies the site of "Love’s Defeat." This location commemorates a tragic event that occurred in June 1847, when Lieutenant John Love and Company B of Fort Leavenworth were attacked by Comanche Indians. The ambush resulted in the deaths of six soldiers and the wounding of six others. The site, marked by the Wet/Dry Routes Chapter of the Santa Fe Trail, serves as a somber reminder of the dangers faced by those traversing the trail. The location is situated on the south side of U.S. Highway 56, just beyond the old railroad bed. The narrative of "Love’s Defeat" underscores the complex relationship between settlers, the military, and Native American tribes along the Santa Fe Trail.
From this point, the "Wet Route" continued westward into present-day Edwards County, further tracing its path across the vast expanse of the Kansas prairie.
The Dry Route in Pawnee County
The "Dry Route," in contrast to its wetter counterpart, offered a more direct but water-scarce path across Pawnee County. The original "Dry Route" branched from the "Wet Route" approximately 3.5 miles southwest of the Pawnee Fork Crossing, near the southwest corner of Larned on US 56. This route traversed a dry ridge north of Garfield and Kinsley, eventually reaching another Coon Creek Crossing. From there, it continued north of present-day Offerle before reaching Dodge City. A later iteration of the "Dry Route" began southwest of Pawnee Rock, running north of present-day Larned to the west edge of the Larned State Hospital grounds before continuing towards Dodge City.
The "Dry Route" followed the north side of the Pawnee River, passing by the Santa Fe Trail Center. This unique museum, library, and educational institution, located two miles west of Larned on the south side of Kansas Highway 156, is dedicated to interpreting the Santa Fe Trail. The center preserves artifacts and manuscripts, focusing on the blending of cultures along the trail, and features interpretive exhibits, learning programs, and resource materials. The outdoor portion of the museum includes a sod house, schoolhouse, and dugout, offering visitors a glimpse into the lives of those who lived and traveled along the trail.
Continuing along the "Dry Route," travelers would encounter Fort Larned National Historic Site, located six miles west of Larned on Kansas Highway 156. From 1859 to 1878, Fort Larned served as a major military installation on the Santa Fe Trail. Nine of the original ten stone buildings remain standing today, with the tenth reconstructed in 1988. Fort Larned is one of the best-preserved frontier military posts in the American West and along the entire Santa Fe Trail. One building has been adapted to serve as a museum, interpretive center, and administrative office. Santa Fe Trail wagon ruts are located in a detached area five miles south of the Fort. The Fort played a crucial role in protecting travelers and maintaining order along the trail, serving as a symbol of U.S. military presence in the region.
The Pawnee Fork Crossing along the "Dry Route" is located on the west edge of the Larned State Hospital grounds. This crossing, still visible and traversable via a small bridge, was sometimes difficult, leading to the establishment of a campsite nearby. In 1859, a mail and stage station was established at this crossing, contributing to the eventual establishment of Fort Larned. The fort was initially located closer to this crossing before being moved to its present location.
Just west of the crossing was a trading post known as Boyd’s Ranch. Situated just outside the Fort Larned Military Reservation, Boyd’s Ranch provided off-post entertainment in the form of liquor, gambling, and prostitution. This establishment likely attracted a significant portion of the trail traffic using the "Dry Route," offering a brief respite from the rigors of the journey.
The "Dry Route" continued through Pawnee County past the Rock Hollow Campsite, named for a nearby sandstone outcropping. This natural landmark provided a recognizable point of reference and a potential source of shelter for travelers. From there, the route continued into Edwards County, further extending its path across the Kansas landscape.
Pawnee County’s strategic location along the Santa Fe Trail made it a vital crossroads in the 19th century. The choices travelers made within the county, whether to take the "Wet Route" or the "Dry Route," shaped their experiences and contributed to the rich history of this iconic trail. From Ash Creek Crossing to Fort Larned, Pawnee County bears the imprints of countless journeys, serving as a lasting reminder of the westward expansion that defined a nation. The Santa Fe Trail’s legacy continues to resonate in Pawnee County, preserved in its historical sites, museums, and the stories of those who traversed its paths.