Rice County, Kansas Santa Fe Trail – Legends of America
Rice County, Kansas, a landscape steeped in history, bears the indelible marks of the Santa Fe Trail, a vital artery of commerce and westward expansion in the 19th century. Traversing nearly east to west through the heart of the county, the trail left behind a legacy of stories, landmarks, and echoes of a bygone era.
Crossing the Little Arkansas River
As the Santa Fe Trail entered Rice County, it immediately encountered the Little Arkansas River, a significant geographical feature that presented both challenges and opportunities for travelers. Located less than a mile into the county, the river became a focal point for those journeying along the trail.
One of the most fascinating remnants of this crossing is the presence of stones deliberately placed in the riverbed. These stones, still visible when water levels are low, served as stepping stones, providing a more stable and manageable path for wagons to ford the stream. The ingenuity and resourcefulness of the trail’s pioneers are evident in this simple yet effective solution to navigate the natural obstacle.
The Enigmatic Stone Corral
A short distance south of the river crossing, approximately 1,000 feet away on the west bank, stood a remarkable structure: a stone corral. This enclosure, measuring 200 by 300 feet, offered weary travelers a haven of accommodation and protection.
The corral’s walls, an impressive eight feet high and 30 inches thick, spoke to the importance of security in this frontier environment. Within the enclosure, a trading post thrived, facilitating the exchange of goods and supplies. The site also served a military purpose, with troops stationed here in 1865 and 1867 to safeguard the trail and its travelers.
Sadly, the stone corral has vanished over time, its physical presence erased from the landscape. However, subtle depressions along the riverbank offer a glimpse into the past, hinting at the dugouts where soldiers once resided while diligently protecting the trail.
Jarvis (Chavez) Creek and a Tragedy
The Santa Fe Trail continued its westward course, passing less than a mile south of the present-day city of Lyons. Along the way, it intersected Jarvis (Chavez) Creek, a seemingly unremarkable waterway that holds a dark secret.
It was here, along the banks of Jarvis Creek in Rice County, that Antonio Jose Chavez, a Hispanic trader, met a tragic end in 1843. His murder sparked an international incident, with repercussions reaching the halls of power in Washington, D.C., and Mexico City. The incident serves as a reminder of the complexities and dangers that characterized life on the Santa Fe Trail, where tensions and conflicts could erupt with devastating consequences.
Cow Creek Crossing: A Hub of Activity
Further west, approximately four miles from present-day Lyons, lay Cow Creek, another crucial crossing point along the Santa Fe Trail. This location served as a popular campground for early travelers, offering respite and resources amidst the vast expanse of the prairie.
In 1853, William Mathewson, the original "Buffalo Bill," recognized the strategic importance of Cow Creek Crossing and established a trading post nearby. Mathewson’s presence transformed the area into a bustling hub of activity, attracting settlers, traders, and adventurers alike.
The allure of Cow Creek Crossing continued to grow, and in 1858, a stage station was erected, further solidifying its role as a vital transportation and communication link. In 1860, "Buffalo Bill" Mathewson demonstrated his resourcefulness and commitment to the community by hunting buffalo to provide meat for settlers in eastern Kansas, whose cattle herds had been decimated by droughts.
As the trail’s traffic increased, so did the need for improved infrastructure. In the 1860s, a toll bridge was constructed about 150 yards upstream from the original crossing, facilitating safer and more efficient passage across Cow Creek. The actual crossing point was located just south of the present-day bridge that spans the creek.
Buffalo Bill’s Well: A Testament to Perseverance
Perhaps the most enduring legacy of Cow Creek Crossing is Buffalo Bill’s hand-dug well. Originally created to serve the Beach Ranch at Cow Creek Crossing, the well provided a precious source of water for livestock and travelers on the Santa Fe Trail.
Today, Buffalo Bill’s Well stands as a tangible reminder of the past, a testament to the hard work and ingenuity of those who shaped the American West. The well is located four miles west of Lyons on US Highway 56, then one mile south on a gravel road. At the intersection of two gravel roads, the well can be found in the northwest quadrant, near the road.
Ralph’s Ruts: Echoes of Wagon Wheels
As the Santa Fe Trail continued westward from Cow Creek Crossing, it approached present-day Chase, Kansas. Here, travelers encountered a stretch of land where the passage of countless wagons had left an indelible mark on the landscape.
These prominent trail ruts, now known as "Ralph’s Ruts," are a remarkable sight, offering a tangible connection to the pioneers who traversed this route. The ruts are named after Ralph Hathaway, whose grandparents, John L. and Mary E. Hathaway, first homesteaded the farm in 1878.
While breaking sod on the northeast forty acres of their quarter, John and his sons unearthed a variety of artifacts from burned-out wagons, including a pistol, a watch, hardware fragments, and broken ironstone china. These grim discoveries provided stark evidence of the notorious Plum Buttes Massacre, which had occurred more than a decade earlier.
Ralph’s Ruts are located approximately four miles west of Chase, Kansas, on U.S. Highway 56, and then .75 miles north. Visitors to the site can easily access the ruts, with convenient parking and a Daughters of the American Revolution marker to highlight the location.
Plum Buttes: A Landmark Lost to Time
Beyond Ralph’s Ruts, about a mile to the west, once stood three imposing sand dunes known as Plum Buttes. These dunes, named for the abundance of wild plum bushes that thrived at their base, towered approximately 120 feet above the surrounding prairie, serving as a crucial landmark for Santa Fe Trail travelers.
Travelers seeking to avoid the soft, sandy, and often impassable soils along the Arkansas River often chose to cross the dunes through a passage known as "Gunsight Notch." Over time, the forces of wind erosion leveled the buttes, creating a wide channel. Although the dunes are no longer present, the Gunsight Notch and Ruts remain visible, offering a glimpse into the past.
It was near here that the Plum Buttes Massacre unfolded, a tragic event in which Indians attacked a wagon train, resulting in the deaths of several people. The massacre serves as a somber reminder of the dangers and conflicts that characterized life on the frontier.
Rice County, Kansas, stands as a living testament to the legacy of the Santa Fe Trail. From the stone crossings of the Little Arkansas River to the echoes of wagon wheels in Ralph’s Ruts, the county offers a unique opportunity to connect with the past and appreciate the stories of those who shaped the American West.