Santa Fe, New Mexico – The City Different

Santa Fe, New Mexico, a city steeped in history and brimming with cultural richness, proudly wears the moniker "The City Different." This unique identity stems from its captivating blend of Native American, Spanish, Mexican, and Anglo-American influences, all woven together over centuries to create a place unlike any other in the United States. From its stunning adobe architecture to its vibrant arts scene and breathtaking mountain backdrop, Santa Fe offers a sensory feast that enthralls visitors and captivates residents alike.

Founded in 1610, Santa Fe holds the distinction of being the third oldest city established by European colonists within the present-day United States. Only St. Augustine, Florida (1565), and Jamestown, Virginia, (1607) predate it. More significantly, Santa Fe also stands as the oldest capital city in the nation, a testament to its enduring importance throughout a tumultuous history. The city has served as a seat of government under five distinct regimes: the Spanish Empire, the Tewa Puebloans (during the Pueblo Revolt), Mexico, the Confederate States of America (briefly), and the United States.

The origins of Santa Fe are intertwined with the ancient past. The city was built upon the site of a long-abandoned Tanoan Indian village, a silent witness to the ebb and flow of civilizations in the region. In 1540, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado claimed the area for Spain, designating it as the capital of the "Kingdom of New Mexico." It wasn’t until 1610, however, that Don Pedro de Peralta, the first governor, officially established the city, bestowing upon it the lengthy yet evocative name: "La Villa Real de la Santa Fe de San Francisco de Asís," which translates to "The Royal City of the Holy Faith of Saint Francis of Assisi." This name reflects the deep religious underpinnings that shaped the early Spanish colony.

Two prominent landmarks stand as enduring symbols of Santa Fe’s early colonial history: the San Miguel Chapel and the Palace of the Governors. Constructed around 1610, the San Miguel Chapel is believed to be the oldest church in the continental United States, its thick adobe walls whispering tales of faith and perseverance. The Palace of the Governors, built between 1610 and 1612, is the oldest continuously occupied government building in the country. For centuries, it has served as the seat of power for various rulers, from Spanish governors to American territorial officials, witnessing pivotal moments in the region’s development.

The initial decades of Spanish colonization were marked by a complex and often fraught relationship with the indigenous Pueblo Indians. Spanish colonists and missionaries sought to subjugate and convert the estimated 100,000 Pueblo people inhabiting the region. This endeavor, driven by religious zeal and the desire for control, ultimately led to widespread resentment and resistance among the Pueblo communities.

In 1680, simmering tensions erupted into the Pueblo Revolt, a watershed moment in New Mexico’s history. The Pueblo Indians, united under the leadership of Popé, rose up against their oppressors, launching a coordinated attack that resulted in the deaths of nearly 400 Spanish colonists. The remaining Spaniards were forced to flee south, retreating back into Mexico. The Pueblo Indians, victorious, reclaimed Santa Fe, burning most of the Spanish buildings, with the notable exceptions of the Palace of the Governors and the San Miguel Chapel, which were spared.

The Pueblo people maintained control of Santa Fe until 1693 when Don Diego de Vargas led a Spanish force back to the city, reasserting Spanish authority. This reconquest was followed by a period of growth and prosperity for Santa Fe. However, the city remained vulnerable to attacks from nomadic tribes such as the Comanche, Apache, and Navajo, who raided settlements and disrupted trade. To counter these threats, the citizens of Santa Fe forged alliances with the Pueblo Indians, fostering a more peaceful and cooperative environment.

During this era, Spanish policy of a closed empire greatly restricted trade with Americans, British, and French, which heavily influenced many people’s lives in Santa Fe.

Santa Fe remained Spain’s provincial capital until 1821, when Mexico achieved its independence. The city then became the capital of the Mexican territory of Santa Fe de Nuevo México. This shift in power brought about significant changes, including the end of Spain’s restrictive trade policies. American trappers and traders, eager to exploit the region’s resources and markets, began to arrive in increasing numbers.

One of the most significant developments of this period was the opening of the Santa Fe Trail. In 1821, William Becknell, a Missouri trader, blazed a trail from Franklin, Missouri, to Santa Fe, a distance of approximately 1,000 miles. This trail quickly became a vital artery of commerce, connecting the American Midwest with the Southwest. Santa Fe, as the trail’s destination, flourished as a trading hub, attracting merchants, settlers, and adventurers from across the expanding United States.

In 1837, a rebellion known as the Chimayó Rebellion erupted in northern New Mexico. Farmers, frustrated with the policies of the Mexican government, rose up in revolt, killing the provincial governor and occupying Santa Fe. However, the rebellion was short-lived, as Mexican forces quickly suppressed the uprising.

The Mexican-American War brought further upheaval to Santa Fe. On August 18, 1846, General Stephen Watts Kearny led an American army into the city, claiming it for the United States. Kearny ordered the construction of Fort Marcy, an earthwork fortification overlooking Santa Fe, to deter any potential uprisings by the local population. Ironically, the fort never saw military action.

Two years later, in 1848, the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo formally ceded New Mexico and California to the United States, marking the end of Mexican control over the region.

During the American Civil War, Santa Fe briefly fell under Confederate control. In 1862, Brigadier General Henry Sibley occupied the city, raising the Confederate flag over the capital for 27 days. However, Sibley’s campaign was ultimately unsuccessful. Following the Battle of Glorieta Pass, Union troops destroyed his supply trains, forcing him to withdraw from New Mexico.

The arrival of the telegraph in 1868 and the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad in 1880 brought significant economic changes to Santa Fe and the surrounding territory. The railroad facilitated trade and transportation, spurring growth and development. However, this period was also marked by corruption in government. President Rutherford B. Hayes appointed Lew Wallace as the territorial governor with the mandate to "clean up New Mexico." Wallace’s efforts to combat corruption earned him the ire of notorious figures such as Billy the Kid, who reportedly threatened to assassinate him.

New Mexico finally achieved statehood in 1912, with Santa Fe remaining its capital city. At that time, the city’s population was approximately 5,000 people.

In its early years, Route 66, the iconic "Mother Road," ran through Santa Fe. Following the Old Pecos Trail from Santa Rosa, the route wound its way through Dilia, Romeroville, and Pecos before reaching Santa Fe. From the capital, Route 66 continued down the treacherous La Bajada Hill towards Albuquerque. This steep and winding descent, with its 500-foot drop and narrow switchbacks, was a daunting challenge for early motorists. So perilous was the La Bajada Hill that locals were often hired to drive vehicles down the slope. In 1937, due to political machinations by the New Mexico Governor, Route 66 was rerouted, bypassing Santa Fe and the Pecos River Valley.

Since then, Santa Fe has diligently preserved its architectural heritage. A law passed in 1958 mandates that new and rebuilt buildings, particularly in historic districts, adhere to a Spanish Territorial or Pueblo style of architecture, characterized by flat roofs and other features reminiscent of traditional adobe construction. This commitment to preserving its unique architectural identity has contributed significantly to Santa Fe’s charm and appeal.

Today, Santa Fe’s economy thrives on art, tourism, construction, and real estate development. The city’s location at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, combined with its pleasant climate and rich cultural attractions, has drawn an influx of new residents with above-average income and education levels. The streets of the city center and Canyon Road are lined with restaurants, boutiques, and art galleries, catering to both tourists and residents.

While Santa Fe experienced a period of economic slowdown in the mid-1990s, when a mayor opposed to tourism was elected, the city has since rebounded, reaffirming its status as a popular destination. However, Santa Fe continues to face challenges such as ongoing drought conditions and a widening divide between long-time residents and newcomers. Despite these challenges, art and tourism remain Santa Fe’s primary industries.

Nestled at an elevation of 7,000 feet in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains, Santa Fe boasts a population of approximately 84,000 people. Visitors to Santa Fe can explore numerous attractions, including the La Fonda Hotel, a historic landmark that has provided lodging for travelers since 1920. From 1926 to 1969, the La Fonda was part of the Harvey House chain, and it is rumored to be haunted. Other notable attractions include the Palace of the Governors, the San Miguel Mission Church, and the city’s many museums, galleries, and boutiques.

Santa Fe is also known for its vibrant ghost tour scene, with numerous operators offering year-round tours of the city’s haunted locations. These tours typically focus on the historic district, highlighting sites such as the La Posada and La Fonda Hotels, the Grant Corner Inn, the Palace of Governors, and the "oldest house in the nation." The tours often delve into local superstitions and the city’s history of vigilantes, gunfights, murders, and hangings.

The La Bajada Hill, located southwest of Santa Fe, was once part of the El Camino Real and later the pre-1937 alignment of Route 66. However, access to the hill has been restricted by the Cochiti Pueblo in recent years due to concerns about visitor abuse.

Today, Route 66 travelers are advised to take Cerrillos Road (NM 14) southwest from downtown Santa Fe before joining I-25. A detour along this route leads to El Rancho de los Golondrinas, a living history museum that recreates a Spanish Colonial village.