Scotts Bluff – Towering over the Nebraska Plains
Rising dramatically from the flat expanse of western Nebraska, Scotts Bluff stands as a sentinel of time, a silent witness to the ebb and flow of human history across the American West. This imposing geological formation, soaring 800 feet above the North Platte River, has served as a landmark, a pathway, and a symbol for millennia, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape and the collective memory of the nation.
For centuries before the arrival of European settlers, Scotts Bluff held profound significance for Native American tribes. The bluff’s prominence made it a natural focal point, a navigational aid, and a place of cultural importance. Archaeological evidence suggests that over 50 pre-contact sites lie within its shadow, hinting at the rich tapestry of indigenous life that once thrived in the region. These early inhabitants, including the Arapaho, Arikara, Cheyenne, Crow, Hidatsa, Kiowa, Mandan, Pawnee, Ponca, and Shoshone, among others, knew the land intimately, relying on its resources and respecting its power. Later, the Sioux tribes, migrating from the Great Lakes region, would also come to dominate the area, further shaping the cultural landscape around Scotts Bluff.
The story of Scotts Bluff takes a new turn with the westward expansion of the United States in the 19th century. Following the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, exploration and exploitation of the West began in earnest. Government-sponsored expeditions, such as those led by Lewis and Clark and Zebulon Pike, documented the region’s abundant natural resources, attracting fur trappers and traders eager to capitalize on the bounty.
Among these early adventurers was a fur trapper named Hiram Scott, whose tragic fate would forever link his name to the bluff. In 1828, Scott, stricken with illness, was abandoned by his companions. He perished alone, and his remains were discovered the following year, many miles from where he had been left. In memory of this forgotten mountain man, the prominent landmark was named Scotts Bluff, ensuring his story would be etched into the annals of Western history.
The 1840s ushered in a new era for Scotts Bluff and the surrounding plains. The fur trade declined, and a surge of emigrants began to traverse the landscape, seeking new lives and opportunities in the West. The Oregon, California, and Mormon Trails converged near the bluff, transforming it into a vital waypoint on the arduous journey westward.
The Bidwell-Bartleson Party, a wagon train of 80 individuals, marked the beginning of this mass migration in 1841. Guided by the promise of fertile farmland in the Willamette Valley, they embarked on the 2,000-mile trek, braving the challenges of the untamed wilderness. Accompanying them was Father Pierre-Jean De Smet, a Catholic missionary who sought to convert Native American tribes. These missionaries were among the first to traverse the Oregon Trail. Their positive accounts of the Oregon Territory spurred further interest, drawing more settlers to undertake the perilous journey.
The year 1852 witnessed the peak of this westward movement, with over 70,000 emigrants passing through the North Platte River Valley. These pioneers, primarily families seeking farmland in Oregon, traveled in wagon trains, typically comprised of multiple families, led by an experienced train leader. Their essential needs were simple: food, grazing lands for their animals, and safe campsites. Pulled by oxen, the wagons could cover 15 to 20 miles a day on the plains, but progress slowed considerably in the mountains. The entire journey could take up to six months.
The journey west was fraught with peril. Travelers faced a litany of hardships, from the mundane irritations of dust and boredom to life-threatening dangers. Starvation, dehydration, exhaustion, and disease were constant threats, with cholera claiming thousands of lives. Of the estimated 350,000 emigrants who embarked on the westward journey, approximately 20,000 perished along the way.
Tensions between settlers and Native American tribes also posed a significant threat. As white travelers and settlers encroached on their lands and depleted the buffalo populations, conflicts erupted. Wagon trains formed protective circles at night to ward off potential attacks. White travelers also introduced new diseases to the Great Plains Indians, decimating their populations. The increasing number of homesteads and irrigation projects further threatened buffalo populations and Indian territory, exacerbating the conflict. These tensions frequently escalated into wars throughout the 19th century, leading to a series of bloody confrontations and massacres.
In addition to the Oregon and California Trails, the Mormon Trail also passed through the Scotts Bluff region. Driven from Nauvoo, Illinois, in 1846 after the murder of their founder, Joseph Smith, over 70,000 Mormons sought religious freedom in the West. Led by Brigham Young, they eventually found refuge in the Salt Lake City area. To assist converts in making the journey, the Mormon Church initially provided wagons. However, as funds dwindled, Young introduced handcarts as a more affordable alternative. Many Mormon emigrants traversed the plains on foot, pushing handcarts laden with their possessions. The Mormon handcart migration continued until the advent of the railroad in the late 1860s.
The discovery of gold at Sutter’s Mill in California in 1848 triggered the largest wave of migration to the West. Tens of thousands of "forty-niners," named for the year of the gold rush, flocked to California seeking their fortunes. Unlike the settlers headed to Oregon, who typically traveled in family units, most forty-niners were young, unmarried men. The most common route to the California goldmines followed the Oregon Trail west through the Scotts Bluff area and turned southwest toward California at Fort Hall, Idaho. The gold rush marked the largest overland trail migration in American history. In 1850 alone, nearly 55,000 emigrants passed through the Platte Valley, most headed to California. By 1853, the gold rush had slowed, and most emigrants were once again homesteaders.
Geographical landmarks, like Scotts Bluff, played a crucial role for overland travelers. These colossal rock formations served as important benchmarks, guiding them across the vast and often featureless plains. Pioneers often romanticized the grandeur of Scotts Bluff in their diaries, hailing it as a welcome sight after miles of monotonous terrain. Only Chimney Rock was mentioned more frequently. Other nearby recognizable rock formations included Courthouse and Jail Rocks, near modern-day Bridgeport.
Beyond its visual significance, Scotts Bluff also presented a physical obstacle to emigrants. The imposing bluffs forced travelers to deviate from the banks of the North Platte River. Two historic paths offered passage through the bluffs. The Robidoux Pass, located south of the river, was initially used by fur traders in the 1820s and 1830s and continued to serve travelers well into the 1850s. From there, travelers headed west toward Fort Laramie, Wyoming. However, with the opening of Mitchell Pass around 1851, Robidoux Pass gradually fell into disuse. Troops from Fort Laramie widened and improved Mitchell Pass, making it accessible to wagon trains. Because Mitchell Pass was a more direct route with easier access to water, most homesteaders began using it. Fort Mitchell, established in 1864, became an important center of commerce for emigrants.
The events of the 1860s brought significant changes to Scotts Bluff and the West. Driven by population growth and business interests, entrepreneurs sought to improve communication between the East and West. The Pony Express, launched on April 3, 1860, was the first attempt at establishing an efficient transcontinental mail route. Riders on horseback delivered mail from station to station. Although the Pony Express operated for only 18 months, until the completion of the Pacific Telegraph in October 1861, it proved the feasibility of rapid transcontinental communication. The Mud Springs Pony Express Station, located near Courthouse Rock, served as a stagecoach and telegraph station in addition to being a Pony Express station. The completion of the transcontinental railroad in 1867 marked the end of the Oregon Trail’s widespread use. Train travel offered a safer, more reliable, and quicker alternative to wagon travel.
In the early 20th century, local and state advocates championed Scotts Bluff as a symbol of the nation’s pioneering past. These efforts culminated in the establishment of Scotts Bluff National Monument on December 12, 1919. Despite the widespread public interest, the bluffs remained largely unchanged until the 1930s. During this time, government employment programs such as the Civil Works Administration (CWA), Works Progress Administration (WPA), and Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) began to develop the site. They constructed Summit Road, featuring three tunnels and a parking lot, as well as State Highway 92, which served as the primary roadway to the site for many years. They also built the Scotts Bluff National Monument Visitors Center and Museum, which now houses the world’s most extensive collection of original William Henry Jackson sketches, paintings, and photographs. Many of these works are on display in the Visitor Center.
Today, visitors to Scotts Bluff National Monument can explore the museum, hike the Saddle Rock Trail, drive to the summit, and experience life on the Oregon Trail during the Living History program held on weekends during the summer.
Contact Information:
Scotts Bluff National Monument
PO Box 27
190276 Old Oregon Trail
Gering, Nebraska 69341
308-436-9700