St. Elmo, Colorado – Best Preserved Ghost Town

High in the Sawatch Range of the Colorado Rocky Mountains, nestled a thousand feet below the timberline, lies St. Elmo, a spectral testament to the state’s rich mining history. Located in Chaffee County, about 20 miles southwest of Buena Vista, this remarkably well-preserved ghost town stands as a captivating window into the past. Its historical significance was officially recognized in 1979 when the entire district was placed on the National Register of Historic Places, solidifying its status as a treasure trove of Colorado’s heritage.

Imagine a landscape dominated by towering peaks, dense forests, and the crisp, clean air of the high country. The setting alone is enough to transport visitors back in time. But St. Elmo offers far more than just scenic beauty; it presents a tangible connection to the dreams, struggles, and eventual decline of a once-thriving mining community.

The story of St. Elmo begins in 1878, when prospectors first began to trickle into the area, drawn by whispers of gold and silver. By 1880, the trickle had become a steady stream, and the burgeoning settlement was officially recognized. Initially christened Forest City, the town’s name was soon changed due to postal confusion with other similarly named locales. Griffith Evans, one of the town’s founders, found inspiration in a romantic 19th-century novel, and St. Elmo was born.

Picture the scene: a town laid out in six feet of snow, hastily constructed buildings rising to meet the needs of the influx of miners. In its early days, St. Elmo was known for its high moral character. However, as with many boomtowns of the era, the influx of a predominantly male population soon led to the establishment of saloons, dance halls, and other establishments catering to the miners’ desires. When the ambitious Alpine Tunnel project was underway nearby, St. Elmo became infamous for its raucous Saturday night revelries, a release valve for the pent-up energy and frustrations of the tunnel workers. St. Elmo served as a place of escape and entertainment.

The arrival of the Denver, South Park and Pacific Railroad in 1881 marked a pivotal moment in St. Elmo’s development. A station was built, connecting the town to the outside world and facilitating the transportation of supplies and ore. The railway line continued onward to Romley, Hancock, and ultimately through the engineering marvel that was the Alpine Tunnel. St. Elmo quickly became a vital supply hub for the surrounding region.

At its peak, St. Elmo boasted a thriving infrastructure. Smelting works processed the valuable minerals extracted from the nearby mines. Several general merchandise stores provided the necessities of life. Five hotels offered lodging to travelers and residents alike. A telegraph office connected the town to the wider world. There was a town hall, five restaurants, two sawmills, a schoolhouse, and even a weekly newspaper called the Mountaineer. Of course, no self-respecting mining town would be complete without numerous saloons and dance halls, and St. Elmo had its fair share. The St. Elmo of that time was a vibrant and bustling place, a far cry from the silent ghost town it is today.

The economic lifeblood of St. Elmo was its mines. The surrounding mountains were rich in silver, gold, copper, and iron. Among the most prominent mines were the Mary Murphy, the Theresse C, the Molly, and the Pioneer. The Mary Murphy Mine, perched high on the mountainside some 2,000 feet above the railroad, was the largest and most successful, shipping between 50 and 75 tons of ore per day to the smelters in Alpine. The Murphy and Theresse C mines were particularly renowned for their gold production. In total, there were over 150 patented mine claims in the immediate vicinity of St. Elmo, a testament to the area’s mineral wealth.

Amidst the hustle and bustle of the mining boom, families also sought their fortunes in St. Elmo. Anton Stark, a cattleman, was so captivated by the town that he decided to settle there with his family in 1881. Anton secured a position as a section boss in one of the local mines, while his wife, Anna, established a general store and the Home Comfort Hotel. This establishment eventually housed the post office and telegraph office, becoming a central hub for the community. Anton and Anna raised three children – Tony, Roy, and Annabelle – who all worked in the family business. The Home Comfort Hotel was renowned for its cleanliness, excellent meals, and well-stocked store.

The Stark family occupied a prominent position in St. Elmo society. Anna, however, was known for her strict demeanor and belief in her family’s social superiority. She rigidly controlled her children, restricting their interactions with other townsfolk, whom she considered beneath them. The children were rarely allowed to leave home and were forbidden from attending local dances or social gatherings. As a result, they relied heavily on each other for companionship. The story of the Stark family offers a glimpse into the social dynamics of St. Elmo and the diverse range of personalities that shaped the town’s character.

The year 1890 brought a devastating fire that ravaged the business district of St. Elmo. The town was never fully rebuilt, marking the beginning of its decline. This coincided with the peak of St. Elmo’s population, which hovered around 2,000 residents. As the mines began to deplete, many miners packed up their belongings and moved on to new opportunities. The closure of the Alpine Tunnel in 1910 dealt a further blow to the town’s economy.

The railroad continued to operate until 1922, when it is said that the remaining residents of St. Elmo boarded the last train out of town, never to return. This image, though perhaps romanticized, captures the sense of abandonment and finality that marked the end of St. Elmo’s boom years.

Despite the exodus, the Stark family remained. Roy and Tony Stark dedicated themselves to reviving the mines, but when their efforts proved unsuccessful, they turned to tourism, renting out empty cabins and continuing to operate the general store. After Anton’s death, Anna recognized the limitations of the tourism trade and sent Annabelle to work in the telegraph office in Salida, a town 20 miles south of St. Elmo.

For Annabelle, this was an opportunity to escape her mother’s restrictive control. She soon met a young man named Ward, and they married in 1922, sending a telegram to her family to announce their move to Trinidad. However, the marriage was short-lived, and Annabelle returned to St. Elmo just two years later, where she remained for the rest of her life.

In 1925, the Mary Murphy Mine, the principal gold mine of the Chalk Creek Mining District, closed its doors. Over its lifetime, the mine produced 220,000 ounces of gold, worth $4.4 million at the time, as well as significant quantities of silver, lead, and zinc. The closure of the Mary Murphy Mine marked another significant step in St. Elmo’s decline.

In 1926, the railroad tracks were dismantled, and the former railway grade was converted into a road connecting Nathrop to St. Elmo. The Stark family, however, remained steadfast in their belief that St. Elmo would once again prosper, and they began to acquire property at tax sales.

The three Stark siblings, along with their mother, eked out a living by running the general store and renting cabins to tourists. However, the town continued to deteriorate. By 1930, the population of St. Elmo had dwindled to a mere seven residents.

In 1934, Roy Stark passed away, followed shortly by his mother, Anna. The only remaining residents were Annabelle and Tony, who lived in the increasingly dilapidated town without indoor plumbing or electricity. They neglected the old hotel, allowing it to become filled with trash and discarded items, but they continued to operate the Home Comfort Store. The store was described as "sour-smelling" and stocked with faded tins of outdated food and stale tobacco.

In 1947, Muriel Sibell Wolle published her book Stampede to Timberline, in which she described St. Elmo as a ghost town. Tony and Annie were reportedly incensed, claiming that it was Wolle’s description, rather than their own eccentricities, that drove away potential business.

Annabelle, despite her unkempt appearance, was known for her kindness and generosity. However, she also earned the nickname "Dirty Annie" due to her filthy clothing and tangled hair. She was often seen patrolling the town with a rifle in hand, protecting her property. The town officially became a ghost town on September 30, 1952, when the post office closed.

Eventually, Tony and Annabelle were deemed to be a danger to themselves and others and were committed to a mental institution. However, a sympathetic friend intervened, convincing the authorities that they posed no threat. They were released, but Tony died shortly thereafter. Annabelle was sent to a nursing home in 1958, where she died in 1960. Their property was left to the friend who had helped them.

The survival of St. Elmo is largely attributable to the Stark family and their descendants, who remained the sole year-round residents for many years. According to local legend, the spirit of Annabelle Stark continues to watch over the town.

Shortly after Annabelle’s death, the friend’s grandchildren were playing in a room of the hotel when all the doors suddenly slammed shut and the temperature dropped dramatically. The children refused to play in the hotel again.

On another occasion, a young woman was cleaning the hotel, and she and her friends found their tools and cleaning supplies moved overnight, even after being placed in a locked closet.

A skier reported seeing an attractive woman in a white dress in the second-story window of the old hotel. When the skier followed her gaze, she saw a group of snowmobilers riding through the street. The skier informed them that snowmobiling was illegal in St. Elmo. The group apologized and rode away. When the skier looked back at the hotel, the woman nodded to her and then vanished.

The legend of Annabelle’s ghost persists, with some believing that she continues to protect her property from vandals and trespassers.

Unfortunately, on April 15, 2002, a fire destroyed six buildings in St. Elmo, including the old Town Hall and Jail and some of the Stark family dwellings.

On July 6, 2002, the Saint Elmo Property Owners Association donated the Town Hall property and the Saint Elmo School House to the Buena Vista Heritage Museum. The Museum plans to work with the Association and residents to preserve and protect St. Elmo.

Today, St. Elmo stands as one of the best-preserved ghost towns in Colorado. It features numerous structures dating back to the 1880s and 1890s, including a general merchandise store that operates from May through October, a church, a school building, other business structures, and numerous cabins.

Visitors to St. Elmo can enjoy the many four-wheel-drive trails in the area, search for quartz and aquamarine, and enjoy camping and upper-mountain fishing.

To reach St. Elmo, take US 285 south from Buena Vista to Nathrop, and then County Road 162 west for approximately 16 miles. St. Elmo welcomes those who appreciate history, the allure of ghost towns, and the beauty of the Colorado Rockies.