Stephen Long’s Expedition of the Great Plains
In the annals of American exploration, the early 19th century witnessed a surge of government-sponsored expeditions aimed at mapping the vast and largely unknown territories west of the Mississippi River. Among these ventures, Stephen Long’s Expedition of the Great Plains stands out as a pivotal moment in shaping the nation’s understanding of this expansive region. Undertaken in 1819 and 1820, this ambitious undertaking sought to chart the Missouri River, establish peaceful relations with Native American tribes, and comprehensively assess the resources and potential of the Great Plains. This article delves into the details of this important expedition, tracing its route, highlighting key encounters, and examining its lasting impact on the perception and development of the American West.
The impetus for Stephen Long’s Expedition of the Great Plains stemmed from the War Department’s desire to gain a thorough understanding of the newly acquired Louisiana Purchase. With westward expansion gaining momentum, the government recognized the need to map the region, assess its suitability for settlement, and establish diplomatic ties with the various indigenous nations inhabiting the land. Major Stephen H. Long, a U.S. Topographical Engineer, was entrusted with leading this critical mission.
The expedition’s logistical base was established in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, where a specially designed steamboat named the Western Engineer was constructed. This vessel, a marvel of its time, was laden with provisions, tools, and a diverse array of gifts intended for the Native American tribes. The Western Engineer embarked on its journey down the Ohio River, eventually joining the Mississippi River and arriving in St. Louis, Missouri, around June 1, 1819. St. Louis served as the expedition’s final point of civilization before venturing into the untamed wilderness of the Missouri River.
From St. Louis, the Western Engineer commenced its arduous journey up the Missouri River, navigating its treacherous currents and charting its course. The expedition’s progress was meticulously documented, with observations on the surrounding landscape, flora, and fauna. Along the way, the expedition reached several key settlements, including Cote Sans Dessieu on July 5th, Franklin on July 13th, Chariton on July 22nd, and Fort Osage on August 1st. These settlements served as important points of contact with the frontier population and provided opportunities for resupply.
At Fort Osage, a detachment led by Thomas Say, a renowned naturalist, disembarked from the steamboat to embark on an overland exploration of the region that would become the State of Kansas. Say’s group ventured southward, crossing into Kansas approximately three miles south of the Kansas River. Their objective was to traverse the landscape and reach the villages of the Kanza (Kaw) Indians.
On August 16th, Say’s detachment camped near the site where Topeka, Kansas, now stands. Three days later, they arrived at the Kanza village situated at the confluence of the Big Blue River and the Kansas River, near present-day Manhattan. Say’s initial plan included a visit to the Pawnee villages, but this ambition was thwarted when his party was robbed of their horses and vital camp equipment. Forced to abandon their plans, Say and his men retreated to the Kanza village. From there, they journeyed northeastward to rejoin the Western Engineer near the mouth of the Wolf River.
Meanwhile, the Western Engineer continued its navigation of the Missouri River. The expedition encountered various individuals and groups along the way, including Major Benjamin O’Fallon, the government’s Indian Agent, who was en route to negotiate peace treaties with the tribes and address past transgressions. The expedition also came across an encampment of white hunters near the mouth of the Kansas River, individuals who had sought refuge from the law and were generally regarded with suspicion by more respectable trappers.
Near Diamond Island, approximately five miles upstream from the mouth of the Little Platte River, the expedition members observed the remnants of an old French fortification or stockade, a testament to the region’s earlier history of European presence and conflict. Further downstream, near Independence Creek, they discovered the abandoned Kanza villages on the west bank of the Missouri River. At this location, they encountered Captain Martin and his three companies of riflemen, who had been stationed there since October 1818, enduring severe shortages of provisions and relying heavily on hunting for sustenance. The Western Engineer generously supplied Captain Martin’s men with much-needed provisions.
A significant event during Stephen Long’s Expedition of the Great Plains was the council held at Isle au Vache on August 24th. Messengers were dispatched to various Native American villages, inviting tribal delegates to attend a meeting aimed at fostering peace and cooperation. The council drew 161 members of the Kanza tribe and 13 representatives from the Osage nation. Major O’Fallon sternly addressed the assembled tribes, reprimanding them for their past offenses against the white settlers. The Native American representatives, in turn, pledged to maintain peaceful relations and were rewarded with valuable gifts of cloth, tools, trinkets, weapons, and ammunition. This exchange exemplified the complex dynamic between the U.S. government and the indigenous populations, characterized by a mixture of diplomacy, coercion, and the exchange of goods.
Due to a shortage of personnel, Lieutenant Fields and 15 men were recruited from the local population to assist in navigating the steamboat upstream. On September 1st, the Western Engineer reached the vicinity of the Wolf River’s mouth, where they were reunited with Say’s detachment, who had been forced to retreat from their planned visit to the Pawnee villages. On October 3rd, another council was convened with the Otoe and Iowa Indians, who similarly pledged allegiance to the government and received gifts in return.
The expedition continued to hold councils with numerous other tribes, including the Osage, Kanza, Pawnee Loup, Republican Pawnee, Grand Pawnee, Ponca, Omaha, Sioux, Padouca, Bald Heads, Comanche, Sac and Fox, and Ioway Indians. These gatherings typically commenced with a "beggar’s dance," during which the warriors recounted their past achievements. By this point, Major Long had returned to Washington, D.C., leaving Major O’Fallon in charge of the proceedings.
The expedition established its winter quarters near Council Bluffs, Iowa. On June 6th of the following year, Major Long returned from Washington, D.C., and ordered the Western Engineer to return to St. Louis, Missouri. Long then embarked on a new phase of the expedition, leading a party to explore the valleys of the Platte, Arkansas, and Red Rivers. This second phase of Stephen Long’s Expedition of the Great Plains focused on mapping the southern reaches of the Great Plains.
Following the course of the South Fork of the Platte River towards its source in the Rocky Mountains, Long continued his explorations until his instructions were fulfilled. He then divided his command into two groups. One group, consisting of 15 men under Captain Bell, was tasked with descending the Arkansas River. The other group, comprised of approximately ten men under Long’s leadership, was directed to travel south towards the Red River and then descend that stream.
Both parties departed on July 24, 1820, from the vicinity of Wharf Creek, one of the upper tributaries of the Arkansas River. Long’s group initially headed nearly due south, anticipating that they would reach the upper branches of the Red River before turning eastward. However, on July 28th, they mistakenly encountered the Canadian River, a tributary of the Arkansas River, and incorrectly identified it as a branch of the Red River. Consequently, they descended the Canadian River until September 10th, when they reached the mouth of the Arkansas River and finally realized their error.
The party under Captain Bell, after enduring various encounters with Native American tribes and suffering from food shortages, eventually arrived at Fort Smith, Arkansas. A few days later, they were joined by Major Long’s party. Subsequently, an expedition was organized to visit the villages of the Osage Indians, who were divided into three distinct bands residing on the Verdigris River, the Osage River, and the Neosho River. This expedition commenced on September 21st and, after visiting the Osage bands, eventually reached its predetermined destination: Ste. Genevieve, Missouri. During this period, Captain Kearny and two other individuals passed through Hot Springs, Arkansas.
Despite its ambitious goals, Stephen Long’s Expedition of the Great Plains is perhaps best remembered for its lasting impact on the perception of the region. Based on his observations, Long concluded that the Great Plains were largely unsuitable for agriculture and settlement, labeling them the "Great American Desert." This assessment, while later proven inaccurate, profoundly influenced government policy and public opinion for decades, discouraging westward expansion and shaping the development of the region. Nevertheless, the expedition’s detailed maps, scientific observations, and accounts of Native American cultures remain valuable historical resources, providing insights into a critical period in the exploration and transformation of the American West.