Stories of the Old Santa Fe Trail
By William Eleroy Curtis, 1883
The early 19th century witnessed the burgeoning of captivating tales, whispered and embellished, concerning the opulence and grandeur of the Spanish Hidalgos residing in New Mexico. These narratives, carried on the wind, reached the eager ears of frontier traders, igniting their imaginations and fueling a belief that just beyond the southwestern boundary – then defined by the lower reaches of Kansas and Colorado – lay a market of unparalleled potential. The Spanish rulers, it was said, lived in a state of perpetual luxury, indulging in boundless extravagance. The return of Lieutenant Zebulon Pike, following his arduous expedition and perilous experiences, lent credence to these fantastical theories, transforming them into seemingly tangible possibilities.
In 1804, a pivotal event occurred: a French Creole named La Lande embarked on a journey from Kaskaskia, Illinois, destined for Santa Fe, New Mexico. He led a train of pack mules laden with goods belonging to a trader named Morrison. La Lande, however, never returned, giving rise to speculations that he had met his demise at the hands of Native Americans. This initial attempt at commerce served as a prologue to the grand saga of the Santa Fe Trail.
Eight years later, in 1812, inspired by Lieutenant Zebulon Pike’s reports, a group of four intrepid individuals resolved to traverse the same path. Setting out from Booneville, Missouri, they commanded a pack train laden with merchandise. The names of three of these bold adventurers – McKnight, Beard, and Chambers – would become interwoven with the early history of the Santa Fe Trail. They followed Pike’s route to the base of the mountains along the Arkansas River, eventually charting a southerly course that led them to Santa Fe without encountering any significant obstacles. This marked the first concerted effort to establish trade with the Spanish settlements. However, the endeavor quickly turned disastrous. Upon their arrival in the capital of New Mexico, the lingering apprehension surrounding Pike’s earlier arrest resurfaced. The four men were promptly imprisoned as suspected spies, their goods were confiscated, and they narrowly avoided execution.
Upon their arrival in Santa Fe, McKnight and his companions discovered La Lande, the man presumed lost years prior. Contrary to popular belief, La Lande had successfully reached Santa Fe, established himself as a merchant using Morrison’s capital, and was living lavishly with a Mexican wife. Another notable figure residing in Santa Fe was James Pursley, considered the first emigrant from the United States to New Mexico. Pursley, a skilled trapper, had ventured into the area while pursuing his trade along the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. He encountered Native Americans who shared tales of the Spanish settlements situated a few hundred miles south. Intrigued, Pursley decided to visit these settlements, first traveling to Taos, a pueblo village located 70 miles north of Santa Fe on the Rio Grande, and then proceeding to the capital. He ultimately settled in Santa Fe permanently, marrying a Mexican woman and operating a modest hotel until his death 24 years later. Pursley holds the distinction of being the only American to welcome Zebulon Pike when the latter arrived in Santa Fe as a prisoner, acting as an interpreter during Pike’s interactions with the local authorities. His presence underscores the early allure of the region and the nascent interactions that would eventually define the Santa Fe Trail.
McKnight and his unfortunate companions languished in prison for nine long years until the 1821 revolution led by Agustin de Iturbide brought about their release. They made their way back to Missouri via canoe, navigating the treacherous currents of the Arkansas River. Undeterred by his harrowing ordeal, Mr. Beard, formerly of the McKnight party, persuaded some St. Louis capitalists to finance another trading venture in 1822. He embarked on a second journey with a small group, carrying several thousand dollars worth of merchandise on packhorses. They successfully reached a point near La Junta, Colorado. However, disaster struck in the form of a severe snowstorm, forcing them to seek refuge in the timber on an island in the Arkansas River. A harsh winter ensued, compelling them to construct makeshift shelters for protection and remain stranded for three agonizing months. Some members of the party succumbed to the elements, while the rest teetered on the brink of starvation. They were forced to slaughter their horses for sustenance. When spring finally arrived, they were left with a valuable cargo of merchandise but no means of transporting it. In this desperate situation, they resorted to creating a "cache," a term borrowed from Canadian voyagers to describe a place of concealment. They dug deep pits along the riverbank, buried their goods, and set out on foot across the mountains. They managed to reach Taos, procured some mules, and returned to retrieve their buried property. The goods were then transported to Santa Fe and sold at a substantial profit, marking a turning point in the history of the Santa Fe Trail.
The mossy pits where Beard concealed his goods were located near Las Animas, in close proximity to the boundary line between Colorado and New Mexico. For many years, ranchmen traversing the area after roaming cattle would point them out as silent reminders of the hardships endured by the early traders.
Upon the arrival of these traders in Santa Fe, the established and often overbearing Hidalgos (Spanish Nobility), who had long controlled the region’s commercial, political, and social landscape, initially sought to treat them as McKnight and his party had been treated. However, the winds of change were blowing. Following the revolution, a new and more progressive administration emerged, one that favored competition and welcomed commerce. This shift in attitude paved the way for the establishment of the Santa Fe Trail as a viable trade route.
The profits generated by these early expeditions were immense. Beard’s party returned to Missouri with their pack mules laden with wool, gold, silver, and turquoise, acquired in exchange for their merchandise. Prior to this, the inhabitants of New Mexico had relied on supplies shipped from Spain to Vera Cruz, then transported across the country at considerable expense and sold at exorbitant prices. Calicoes, for instance, that could be purchased in Missouri for a mere sixpence a yard, commanded prices of two or three dollars in Santa Fe. Cutlery was also in high demand, fetching almost any price.
Captain William Becknell emerged as the next prominent figure in the burgeoning trade. In 1821, he departed Missouri with four companions and a supply of goods intended for trading with Native Americans for furs. En route, he encountered Beard’s returning party and, upon learning of their success with the Mexicans, redirected his course to Santa Fe, returning to Booneville with substantial profits. Following Becknell’s success, Colonel Cooper organized an expedition in May 1822, leading a party of 15 men with several thousand dollars worth of merchandise. They successfully exchanged their goods at Taos for silver ornaments, wool, and skins.
Captain Becknell embarked on a second journey later that same year, but with markedly different results. Driven by an overabundance of confidence in his ability to discover a shorter route to Santa Fe, Becknell abandoned the established trail and ventured across the open country, hoping to bypass the circuitous valley of the river. This decision proved to be a critical error. The party found themselves in a desolate, sandy desert devoid of any water source. They wandered aimlessly for days, enduring unimaginable suffering. In a desperate attempt to quench their thirst, they killed their dogs and even resorted to cutting off the ears of their mules, hoping to extract moisture from the hot blood. Several members of the party perished, while the survivors pressed onward, their throats parched and their bodies burning, chasing the deceptive mirages of the prairie that had lured so many to their doom. The strongest member of the group was on the verge of collapse when, by sheer luck, a buffalo appeared before them. They shot the animal for its blood and discovered that its stomach was filled with water. This filthy liquid, however unappetizing, saved their lives, and they followed the animal’s tracks to a creek where it had recently drunk.
The substantial profits generated by the trade with Santa Fe attracted merchants with significant capital, leading to the departure of trading parties from Booneville, Missouri, almost every month during the summer. By 1824, the scale of the trade had grown to such an extent that wagons were introduced, marking the first time that wheels traversed the prairie in May. The renowned General Marmaduke, who would later serve as Lieutenant Governor of Missouri and a Confederate leader, was a member of this pioneering wagon train. The initial caravan reached Santa Fe without incident, and the light wagons were met with great curiosity by the New Mexicans, who had never seen anything more advanced than the clumsy ox carts used by the local farmers.
The frequency of these trading expeditions prompted the Honorable Thomas H. Benton to secure an appropriation of $25,000 from Congress in 1825 for "the survey and improvement of a wagon road from the Missouri River to the New Mexican boundary." Under this authority, Major Henry Sibley of the United States Army was tasked with laying out what would become known in frontier history as the Santa Fe Trail. This remarkable road, spanning 800 miles, stretched across the landscape without a single bridge and ascended almost imperceptibly from an elevation of only 500 feet to a height of over 8,000 feet above sea level. The eastern terminus of the trail was initially located at Booneville, then at Independence, and subsequently at St. Joseph, Missouri, gradually shifting westward as civilization advanced. The arrival of the railroad, however, dramatically accelerated this westward expansion.
At its peak, the Santa Fe trade involved as many as 4,000 individuals and employed several million dollars in capital. Traders would converge from various points along the river, where freight had been transferred from steamboats to wagons, and assemble at Council Grove, Kansas, a significant stretch of timber along the banks of the Kansas, or Kaw River. Here, the various parties would unite and organize themselves for the long journey ahead. A caravan captain was elected, with each wagon having one vote, often leading to spirited contests for the position. The primary purpose of this organization was to provide enhanced protection against Native American attacks. Trains that adhered to established precautions were rarely targeted. These caravans typically consisted of three or four hundred wagons, carrying property worth as much as half a million dollars, with approximately three men assigned to every two wagons. A small cannon was commonly carried, proving to be more effective in deterring Indian attacks than a hundred muskets. A regular system of guards and pickets was maintained. Often, the wives and families of traders accompanied them on the prairie voyage, transforming it into a journey enjoyed by tourists and invalids.
The caravan captain was chosen for their leadership qualities and executive abilities. The role was far from a mere formality, and few individuals possessed the necessary skills to fulfill it adequately. The captain wielded considerable authority. Their revolver served as their scepter, and they would not hesitate to shoot a man for a breach of discipline, showing as little remorse as they would in killing a disabled mule. The teamsters, variously known as "mule whackers," "bull-whackers," or "cow-punchers," were a rough and often unruly bunch, necessitating strict discipline. Each man had assigned duties, and the captain’s decisions were final. Any member of the party who disagreed with the captain’s leadership was free to leave the caravan and continue the journey alone, but as long as they remained, they were obligated to obey.
Guides and scouts were essential for locating suitable camping sites with access to the three essential resources: water, fuel, and grass. They were also responsible for hunting game to provide food for the expedition and for watching for signs of Native American activity. This was the domain of Kit Carson, widely regarded as the most remarkable and skilled plainsman of his time, whose name is indelibly linked to the history of the Southwest.
The caravan would proceed along its arduous route in a long and languid procession, typically with four wagons abreast. Even today, travelers along the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad can still discern the deep ruts etched into the soft soil by the wagon wheels, where the plow has not disturbed the ground. At night, the wagons were arranged in a hollow square, with their tongues facing outward, creating a secure and sheltered enclosure for the animals. Each party camped outside its wagons, and every man took their turn on guard duty. With these precautions in place, the long journey across the plains was generally safe, and large trains were rarely attacked. Native American depredations were typically confined to small and reckless parties, and disasters usually stemmed from carelessness. Kit Carson famously stated that whiskey had claimed more lives on the frontier than the Indians, a sentiment that is undoubtedly true. However, ignorance of Native American customs and foolhardy recklessness also contributed to the loss of lives and property. Individuals "wise in their own conceit" often attempted to shorten the route by deviating from the established trail, only to meet with disaster.
In 1833, a group of tourists and traders, including a brother of General Robert C. Schenck, strayed from the trail in an attempt to save time and distance. They became lost, exhausted their provisions, and depleted their ammunition while hunting game. They wandered aimlessly for weeks, enduring extreme hardship, killing their horses for food, and subsisting on leaves and roots. The party eventually split over disagreements about the correct direction to take. One group eventually reached a Native American camp, where they were treated hospitably and allowed to return to the States. The fate of the other group, which included Mr. Schenck, remained unknown. Months later, their remains were discovered, identified by articles of clothing, scattered across the prairie.
The scarcity of water during the summer months posed the greatest threat to travelers along the Santa Fe Trail. The western plains of Kansas were once the bed of a vast lake that stretched to the Rocky Mountains. During what geologists refer to as "the great continental elevation," the lake was raised above sea level, and its water gradually receded through drainage. Still, ponds remained in natural depressions, along with streams that carried the melting snows of the mountains towards the sea. The winds evaporated the water from the ponds, and the sun hardened the sand at their bottoms into rock, creating a massive sarcophagus for the beasts, birds, fishes, and insects that had originally inhabited the lake. The plains transformed from a sea of water into a great earth ocean, with waves of buffalo grass stretching to the horizon in all directions. Where billows of water once rolled, now billows of sand presented even greater dangers than those encountered at sea. Indians and soldiers, battles and hunts, hunger and thirst, murder, fire, and rapine have transformed the two trails across the continent – one leading to the treasure troves of the Rocky Mountains and the other to the legendary land of Montezuma – into long cemeteries.
As traders approached Santa Fe, they dispatched riders ahead to secure contracts and arrange for warehouses. The arrival of a caravan transformed the quaint old Spanish town into a festive scene. After selling their goods for Spanish dollars or exchanging them for silver or turquoise, the traders would spend several weeks reveling, often losing much of their earnings in gambling houses. They would then reload their wagons with wool and begin their homeward journey.
During this period, New Mexico was under Spanish rule, and all foreign traders were subject to hefty tariffs, sometimes amounting to two or three hundred percent. The customs officials were notoriously corrupt, and it is widely believed that little of the collected revenue ever reached the government’s coffers. For a time, Governor Armijo imposed his own personal tariff, demanding five hundred dollars for each wagonload. Those who willingly paid this fee reportedly found it easier to evade other taxes.
In 1839, when the French blockaded all Mexican seaports, the Santa Fe Trail trade experienced unprecedented growth, serving as the only means for Old Mexico and New Mexico to obtain supplies. The trade was temporarily suspended in 1843 during the war between Texas and Mexico, when Santa Anna issued a decree prohibiting the importation of goods from the North and closing customs houses. However, the trail reopened in 1848 when General Stephen Kearney captured Santa Fe and raised the Stars and Stripes over the ancient mud "palace" of the Spanish Dons. Business flourished, a stage line was established, and the railroads began to extend their iron arms towards the Southwest. The forwarding houses advanced with the track, first to Emporia, then to Larnard and Fort Dodge, Kansas; La Junta, Colorado; and Las Vegas, New Mexico. The railroad track closely followed the old trail, reducing the journey from five weeks to a mere three days.
By William Eleroy Curtis, A Summer Scamper Along the Old Santa Fe Trail, and Through the Gorges of Colorado to Zion; Inter Ocean Publishing Company, 1883. Compiled and edited by Kathy Alexander, updated March 2025.