The Journal of Sedona Schnebly

By Lisa Schnebly Heidinger

"The first time I saw the place that now bears my name, all I wanted to do was be somewhere else."

Thus begins The Journal of Sedona Schnebly, a captivating exploration into the life of a remarkable woman whose name graces the picturesque town nestled within Oak Creek Canyon. This canyon, a jewel of Arizona, draws a multitude of visitors each year, rivaling even the grandeur of its more famous neighbor, the Grand Canyon.

Sedona, Arizona, a place where the vibrant red rocks meet the boundless blue skies and a perennial watercourse carves its path through the arid landscape, has a unique allure. Visitors are often captivated by the stunning natural beauty and find themselves pondering the origin of the town’s name. Many have wondered about the woman behind the name, The Journal of Sedona Schnebly offers insight into the life of this pioneer.

The story, penned by Lisa Schnebly Heidinger, delves into the experiences of Sedona Arabella Miller Schnebly, revealing a spirit both constrained by the societal norms of her time and yearning for something more. The narrative opens with a young Sedona chafing under the rigid expectations placed upon her.

"I feel nervous, like an unbroken horse. I want to be out. Not just outside. Out in a bigger sense. Things feel too tidy, too constraining. Too comfortable. Dinner will be at six. The napkins will match. My shoes are the right size. Our nightgowns are clean. All just right. All predictable.

I know Lillie would say, ‘Oh, perhaps you’d like tight shoes and a dirty nightgown?’ But it’s just so organized. Everything’s already figured out and done. There’s no horizon to sail off toward."

This poignant reflection reveals a restless soul, a young woman longing to break free from the confines of her predetermined path. Ironically, Sedona’s desire for adventure would soon be realized in ways she could scarcely imagine.

After her parents disinherited her for marrying a Presbyterian instead of a Methodist, Sedona found herself embarking on a journey that would lead her to the untamed wilderness of Oak Creek. Her arrival was met not with bustling streets or the comforts of civilization, but with a simple tent house amidst a vast expanse of the unknown. This was not the St. Louis she knew.

"More daunting than the humble shelter was the vast swath of wilderness all around it. This was not a place people lived. I’d been to St. Louis, so I knew what a city was like. I’d never been anywhere so empty of human influence. Never mind streetlights or even streets; no houses for windows, let alone lights shining in them…the only light was fading around us. The endlessness of all this nature, looming and rustling, made our tent seem like a fairy-sized dwelling. We were alone out here, with no protection save Carl and his rifle. Animals, including predators, outnumbered us by dozens or even hundreds."

The initial shock of isolation and vulnerability soon gave way to a profound connection with the land. As the sun rose, painting the landscape in vibrant hues, Sedona’s perspective shifted dramatically.

"First, the rock was surreal. Mountains and hills and fortresses and then stone spires on top of those other things, all in deep rust-colored richness, some with bands of lighter color as straight as if made by a master craftsman (which I guess they were). They seemed more three-dimensional than things back home. Then everywhere that wasn’t taken up by those endless variations of stone was filled, festooned, decorated by green growing things, and laid over all was the music of the water. Whatever fatigue remained was replaced by energy. I felt healed of some miasma I hadn’t known I had. I was galvanized, grateful, and ready to begin."

The majestic red rocks, the lush vegetation, and the soothing sounds of the creek awakened a sense of wonder and renewal within her. Sedona embraced the challenges and opportunities that lay ahead, ready to build a life in this extraordinary place. The essence of The Journal of Sedona Schnebly captures this transformation beautifully.

Lisa Schnebly Heidinger, a journalist and great-granddaughter of Sedona Schnebly, has meticulously researched and crafted this compelling narrative. Drawing upon archives, family records, and the recollections of early Oak Creek residents, she brings Sedona’s story to life with vivid detail and historical accuracy.

"Sedona was intensely private; her husband T.C. (Carl) was the one who wanted to bring every stranger home for lunch," says Schnebly Heidinger. "He was an ambassador of Sedona, Arizona, and loved telling people how the rock formations were named, which early settlers lived in what areas, and how he led a crew of men to build Schnebly Hill Road."

Carl, a gregarious and welcoming man, complemented Sedona’s more reserved nature. Together, they formed a formidable partnership, laying the foundation for the town that would bear her name.

Arriving in 1901, after T.C.’s brother had persuaded them to visit, the Schneblys invested their savings from the sale of T.C.’s hardware store interest in Gorin, Missouri. They transported seedlings, seeds, and their belongings via railroad car, providing them with a significant advantage in establishing their new life. The fruit trees flourished, allowing them to hire help to construct a spacious two-story home to accommodate guests. While Carl managed the transportation of goods and lodgers along Schnebly Hill Road, his tireless wife, Sedona, devoted herself to caring for their visitors. The Journal of Sedona Schnebly reveals the sacrifices and dedication required to build a life in the rugged landscape.

"When people get off the train in Flagstaff and ask at the station how to get down to Oak Creek Canyon, they are told to walk over to the Babbitt store and enquire when Mr. Schnebly will be coming back. Then they can ride down with him (I presume if it’s a matter of days, they seek lodging; sad to be propped on a chair near the hard candy, yawning in perpetuity). When Carl arrives there, he conducts his business and brings them back to Oak Creek in the wagon…no matter what. It might be consumption that brings them west. They may be shady or surly; traits and disposition wash over him like the color of someone’s hair; it simply is. He is genial and welcoming to all.

So we’ve hosted the proverbial beggars and kings; while those whom Carl quietly assesses as being comfortable of purse pay a dollar a day, visitors just as often look like their last coin has already disappeared. With them, his vague, ‘Well, we’ll settle up before you go,’ is usually the end of financial discussion."

Despite her inherent shyness, Sedona embraced her role as a hostess, providing comfort and hospitality to a diverse array of travelers.

"While I love few things more than the late-afternoon respite from chores that involve a great deal of moving about and can sit peacefully to stone cherries or string beans or mend in the hour before dinner preparations are in full swing, sometimes it turns into a bit of heavy lifting of its own: wives can be bored and want to be entertained.

They ask anything from if I’ve ever met an Indian (I have) to whether I’ve ever been attacked by one (I have not). If their poor eastern faces then go a bit crestfallen, I cheer them up by telling them about killing rattlesnakes with a rake. That never loses its savor: the women perk up and chatter like magpies, wanting to know if it’s hard (not terribly), how long the snake continues to move (depends), and if I’m scared (always)."

Sedona’s ability to connect with others, even in her quiet way, left a lasting impression on those who passed through her home.

Sedona and Carl raised their three children in the relatively untouched wilderness. However, the tragic loss of their five-year-old daughter, Pearl, cast a dark shadow over their lives. Overwhelmed by grief, Sedona retreated into a deep depression. Seeking solace and reconciliation with family, they returned to Gorin before homesteading in southeastern Colorado. Ultimately, their hearts drew them back to the place they truly loved.

Upon their return, Sedona found that the area had transformed into a haven for artists and filmmakers, drawn by the stunning landscapes and unique atmosphere. Despite the growing popularity of the area, Sedona remained uncomfortable with meeting new people. The story of The Journal of Sedona Schnebly shows her resilience.

"Often, these enthusiastic visitors looked a little disappointed when they met me. They hoped for a sandstone sprite, and instead, they get this very reserved normal person quite probably scented faintly of potatoes or jam or something equally mundane."

Sedona’s humility and down-to-earth nature stood in stark contrast to the idealized image some held of the woman behind the town’s name.

The entire community celebrated when Sedona and Carl reached their golden wedding anniversary.

"I can’t believe I’ve been alive for fifty years, let alone married that long. But I also don’t recall a time we weren’t together.

Carl had a softer, rounder face as a young man. Now, what stands out is that very determined jaw. I guess I’m glad pictures will be taken later, even though I am uncomfortable being in them. We are not the somewhat formless young people we were when we married or when we came here for the first time. We’ve been carved into different statues…statues that stand close to one another.

It’s wonderful to contemplate. A half-century of Carl and I being the most important people in the world to each other. ‘Golden’ is a good word for that."

Their enduring love and commitment to one another served as an inspiration to all who knew them. The Journal of Sedona Schnebly is not just a biography, but a love story, a testament to the power of resilience, and a celebration of the human spirit. The final passages of The Journal of Sedona Schnebly are beautiful.

©Lisa Schnebly Heidinger, updated January 2023.

More about the book: Sedona Arabella Miller Schnebly followed her husband west when their small Missouri town condemned his Presbyterian religion. Arriving in Arizona Territory in 1901, they planted orchards and hosted early tourists in what is now named Sedona. This vivid journal of her life introduces you to a pioneer family: from their genteel upbringings through adventures with rattlesnakes, trappers, and colorful guests. With 30 photographs from family collections, this volume of Sedona Schnebly’s experiences and ruminations draws you into a fiercely private woman’s life that is by turns amusing, heartbreaking, and always fascinating.

About the author: Great-granddaughter of Sedona Schnebly, Lisa Schnebly Heidinger, has written nine other books about various aspects of Arizona before this tour de force journal: a culmination of decades conducting interviews and exploring archives. Voted OneBookAZ author for her Arizona Centennial book, she shares Sedona and T.C. Schnebly’s deep love of Arizona and travel. A former television and newspaper reporter, then editorial columnist, she loves drinking at historic hotels, doing anything outside, and coffee; she vowed she’s never had an undrinkable cup, although the one made in the morning and purchased at 4 p.m. from Grey Hills Trading Post came closest.