The Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas
The allure of gold and untold riches has historically propelled explorers into uncharted territories, etching their names into the annals of history. One such pursuit, fueled by whispers of opulent civilizations, led Spanish conquistadors deep into the heart of North America in the 16th century. This quest centered on the legendary Seven Cities of Cibola and a subsequent kingdom even further afield: the Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas.
The story of Quivira begins with the fabled Seven Cities of Cibola. As early as 1530, Spanish authorities stationed in Mexico City began hearing tales of these cities, rumored to be overflowing with wealth. However, a dedicated expedition to locate and exploit these riches wouldn’t materialize until a decade later. This was the famed Coronado Expedition of 1540, dispatched from New Spain with the express purpose of finding Cibola and claiming its treasures for the Spanish crown.
During the winter encampment near present-day Albuquerque, New Mexico, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, the expedition’s leader, received information from an indigenous slave about another, even more promising province lying further inland. This province, described as teeming with untold wealth, would later become known as Quivira. The origin of the name "Quivira" itself is shrouded in some mystery. While its derivation from an indigenous language is often assumed, one intriguing theory posits a different origin. A historian suggests that the original name may have been "Quebira," potentially stemming from the Arabic word "quebir," meaning "great." This theory suggests that survivors of the ill-fated Narvaez expedition, who eventually reached Mexico in 1536, may have first used the term. This highlights the complex and interwoven tapestry of cultural influences present even in the earliest European encounters with the Americas.
The province of The Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas, soon became a subject of intense geographical debate. In the early years following its discovery, nearly every state within the Missouri Valley region laid claim to the mythical kingdom. It wasn’t until the late 19th century that archaeological investigations provided a more concrete understanding of its location.
Armed with the information gleaned from the Indian slave, Francisco Vasquez de Coronado embarked on a journey in April 1541 to locate The Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas. After traversing the vast plains for over two months, he finally reached his destination. However, as the season began to wane, Coronado made the decision to return to his winter quarters. On October 20th, he penned a letter to the King of Spain, detailing his findings.
In this letter, Coronado described The Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas, as being situated 950 leagues from Mexico, reaching a latitude of 40 degrees. He lauded the land’s potential for agricultural production, claiming it was the finest he had ever seen for cultivating Spanish crops. He noted the presence of fertile, black soil, abundant water sources from streams, springs, and rivers, and native fruits like plums, nuts, grapes, and mulberries. However, his description of the settlements and inhabitants painted a less idyllic picture. Contrary to expectations of stone cities and multi-storied buildings, Coronado found only straw houses. He described the inhabitants as "savage," lacking clothing and relying on tanned hides from the buffalo they hunted. He noted their consumption of raw meat, their adversarial relationships with neighboring tribes like the Querechos and Tejas, and their shared physical characteristics. He did, however, acknowledge the Quivirans’ skill as hunters and their cultivation of maize.
Juan Jaramillo, a member of the Coronado Expedition, provided a corroborating account. His description aligned with Coronado’s, further solidifying the image of Quivira. Jaramillo noted the scarcity of metal, with only traces of iron pyrites and copper present. The primary objective of the expedition was to discover gold and silver, and the lack of these precious metals led to significant disappointment among the Spanish conquistadors.
Coronado’s mention of "prunes" likely refers to the wild plums that still thrive along the waterways of central and western Kansas. His description of the "fat, black, and well-watered land" closely matches the fertile soil found near the confluence of the Smoky Hill and Republican Rivers. The geographical marker of the 40th degree latitude supports the theory that the ancient province was located in central or northeastern Kansas, as the northern boundary of the state lies along this parallel. Garcia Lopez de Cárdenas, the expedition’s historian, corroborated Coronado’s description of the dwellings, describing them as round, single-story structures with straw roofs used for sleeping and storage.
Based on the descriptions of the dwellings, particularly the use of straw thatching, historian Frederick Hodge identified the inhabitants of The Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas, as the Wichita Indians. Of all the Plains Indian tribes, the Wichita were known for constructing their homes with straw.
Adolph Bandelier, in his work "The Gilded Man," conducted a meticulous analysis of various accounts pertaining to Quivira. He concluded that Quivira was situated in central Kansas, near present-day Great Bend and Newton, extending slightly to the north. He also emphasized that the name "Quivira" was more indicative of a nomadic Indian tribe than a fixed geographical location. Therefore, Bandelier argued, Coronado’s description of Quivira accurately reflected its location in 1541, but not necessarily at later times. He posited that the tribe, and consequently the name, moved alongside the bison herds.
If Bandelier’s deductions are accurate, the nomadic nature of the Quivira tribe could explain the varying locations attributed to the province throughout history. However, it is undeniable that the Quivira visited by Coronado in 1541 was located within the boundaries of present-day Kansas. Bandelier also observed that after Coronado’s return to Mexico, the allure of Cibola waned, but the fascination with Quivira persisted. Despite Coronado’s honest portrayal of the region, the world continued to believe in its hidden riches and continued the search for it.
Despite the widespread belief in the potential wealth of The Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas, no further attempts were made to visit the province for over half a century after Coronado’s expedition. Later expeditions, led by Francisco Leyva de Bonilla in 1595 and Juan de Oñate in 1601, were poorly planned and executed, ultimately failing to achieve any significant discoveries.
Following the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 and Diego de Vargas’s subsequent reconquest of New Mexico in 1692-94, the name Quivira, as applied to a specific province or tribe, seemed to fade from memory. However, the tales of golden riches were not entirely forgotten. The myth was transferred to some ruins in present-day Socorro County, New Mexico, approximately 150 miles south of Santa Fe. These ruins became popularly known as "La Gran Quivira."
Bandelier further noted that the city had been in ruins since the 1680 revolt, but its treasures were believed to be buried nearby. The legend claimed that a wealthy mission had once existed there, and the priests had hidden the church’s gold and silver vessels. Over two centuries, the Indian kingdom of Quivira, initially described by "the Turk," transformed into a wealthy Indian mission with hidden church treasures. The original location of Quivira, however, was lost.
In the late 19th century, renewed efforts were made to pinpoint the location of the lost Quivira. Translations of Castaneda’s narrative of the Coronado Expedition by George Winship, the work of the Hemenway archaeological expedition, and the research of James H. Simpson, Frederick Hodge, and others who carefully studied the accounts of Coronado’s movements, all pointed to the region between the Arkansas and Kansas Rivers as the site of the ancient Indian province of The Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas.
Jacob V. Brower, an archaeologist from St. Paul, Minnesota, undertook three expeditions to Kansas to determine the location of the original Quivira. During these trips, he explored the valleys of the Kansas and Smoky Hill Rivers, as well as the Arkansas River Valley near Great Bend. Using stone implements as evidence, a method that has been criticized, he identified the locations of several ancient villages. In 1901, the Quivira Historical Society was established in Alma, Kansas, with the aim of erecting monuments to mark significant historical sites. The first of these monuments was unveiled in 1902 near Junction City, followed by others in Dickinson, Riley, and Wabaunsee Counties.
Today, a historical marker stands on U.S. Highway 56 between Lyons and Chase in Rice County. The marker provides a concise history of Coronado’s journey to the area in 1541. It recounts the tale of the Turk, who lured Coronado to Kansas with promises of trees adorned with golden bells and people using beaten gold for their pots and pans. It describes Coronado’s disappointment at finding no gold, but also his appreciation for the land’s agricultural potential. The marker also mentions the Turk’s confession of deception and his subsequent execution, as well as the martyrdom of Friar Juan de Padilla, who returned to Quivira as a missionary and was later killed by the Indians. The marker concludes by stating that the site of one of the largest villages of The Kingdom of Quivira, Kansas, is located near the marker.
In Lyons, Kansas, the Coronado-Quivira Museum further commemorates the region’s rich history. The museum houses artifacts and information pertaining to the early inhabitants, Spanish explorers, the Santa Fe Trail, and the arrival of homesteaders and permanent settlers.