The Taos Pueblo – 1,000 Years of History
Nestled just two miles north of the modern town of Taos, New Mexico, stands a testament to enduring human spirit and architectural ingenuity: the Taos Pueblo. This remarkable settlement is not merely an ancient ruin; it is a vibrant, living community, one of the longest continuously inhabited communities in the United States. Its history stretches back over a millennium, linking the present-day inhabitants to their ancestors who first raised its walls against the backdrop of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Archaeological evidence suggests that the Taos Valley has been populated since as far back as 3000 B.C., and the area is dotted with prehistoric ruins dating back to 900 A.D., however, the Taos Pueblo itself is believed to have been constructed between 1000 and 1450 A.D. Astonishingly, it presents itself to the modern visitor much as it would have appeared centuries ago, a tangible bridge to the past.
The Taos Pueblo is a remarkable example of traditional architecture, crafted entirely from adobe. This building material, a mixture of earth, straw, and water, is either poured into forms or dried into bricks under the desert sun. These adobe components are then used to construct walls that are often several feet thick, providing excellent insulation against the harsh climate of northern New Mexico. The structures within the Pueblo range in height, with some reaching as many as five stories, creating a terraced appearance that blends seamlessly with the surrounding landscape.
The roofs of these dwellings are constructed using a time-honored method. Large wooden poles, sourced from the forests of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, are laid side-by-side to form a sturdy base. This framework is then covered with packed earth, creating a flat, durable roof that serves as both a ceiling and an outdoor living space. The massive timbers required for this construction are a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the Taos Pueblo people.
Maintaining the integrity of the adobe structures requires constant effort. Throughout the years, the exterior walls have been meticulously replastered with thick layers of mud, a process that not only preserves the buildings but also reinforces their connection to the earth. Originally, the buildings lacked doors and windows, with access gained solely through openings in the roof. While doors and windows have been incorporated over time, the overall aesthetic remains remarkably consistent with its ancient origins.
Central to the life of the Taos Pueblo is the Red Willow Creek, a small stream that originates high in the Sangre de Cristo Range at the tribe’s sacred Blue Lake. The creek flows directly through the center of the community, providing a vital source of water for drinking, cooking, bathing, and religious ceremonies. Its importance cannot be overstated; it is the lifeblood of the Pueblo, sustaining its inhabitants both physically and spiritually. Even in the depths of winter, the creek’s swift current prevents it from freezing completely, ensuring a continuous supply of fresh water.
The arrival of Europeans in the 16th century marked a significant turning point in the history of the Taos Pueblo. In 1540, Captain Hernando de Alvarado, dispatched by Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, became the first European to set eyes on the Pueblo. The name "Taos" itself is derived from the Spanish word "téo," meaning "village."
Later, in July 1598, Don Juan de Oñate Salazar, a prominent explorer and colonial governor of New Spain (present-day Mexico), arrived at Taos. Shortly after, in September, he assigned Fray Francisco de Zamora to minister to the people of the Taos and Picuris Pueblos. By 1619, the first Spanish-Franciscan mission, San Geronimo de Taos, was erected by priests utilizing indigenous labor.
The established trading networks of the Taos Pueblo, coupled with the presence of the mission and the abundance of resources such as water, timber, and game, quickly attracted Spanish settlers to the region. However, the arrival of these newcomers also brought conflict. The authoritarian policies and forced religious conversions imposed by the Spanish created tension and resentment among the Taos people, ultimately leading to the Pueblo Revolt of 1680.
The Pueblo Revolt was a meticulously planned uprising, coordinated among several Pueblo communities, with the Taos Pueblo serving as a central hub for secret meetings and strategic planning. In August 1680, a coordinated attack was launched against Spanish settlements throughout the region. The Pueblo warriors, numbering over 8,000, targeted Franciscan friars and Spanish settlers, resulting in the deaths of 21 friars and over 400 Spaniards. The surviving settlers were driven from the area, marking a temporary victory for the Pueblo people. Unfortunately, the San Geronimo church at the Pueblo was destroyed during the uprising.
However, the Spanish reconquest was inevitable. In 1692, Don Diego de Vargas successfully re-colonized the province. In 1694, De Vargas raided the Taos Pueblo when it refused to provide corn for the starving settlers in Santa Fe. The Taos Pueblo revolted again in 1696, and De Vargas returned for the third time to suppress the rebellion. The San Geronimo Mission was rebuilt in 1706.
Eventually, Taos and the other Rio Grande pueblos forged an alliance with Spain and, later, with Mexico after its independence in 1821.
The settlement of Taos, which grew up around the Pueblo, became an important trading center. By the early 1800s, it was home to several renowned mountain men, including Kit Carson, Smith Simpson, and Ceran St. Vrain. But the Pueblo would once again find itself embroiled in conflict during the Mexican-American War when U.S. General Stephen Kearney and his troops occupied New Mexico in 1846.
In 1847, the Taos people rebelled against the new American occupiers, resulting in the death of the newly appointed Governor Charles Bent in his Taos home. The U.S. military retaliated swiftly, killing approximately 150 Indians, destroying the San Geronimo Mission, and executing 16 Indians for their role in the revolt. The ruins of the mission can still be seen today, located northwest of the two main pueblo blocks. A new church was built within the walls of the original Pueblo in 1850.
Despite the tumultuous history, the Tiwa people and the Taos Pueblo persevered, adapting to the changing landscape of the American West while steadfastly maintaining their native traditions, culture, and customs, particularly within the Pueblo walls. While modern updates such as doors and windows have been incorporated into the buildings, they continue to resemble their historical appearance. Notably, modern utilities like plumbing and electricity are not permitted within the Pueblo.
The Pueblo on the north side of the river, known as Hlaauma, is one of the most photographed structures in the Western Hemisphere and the largest multi-storied Pueblo structure still standing. The homes within the building typically consist of two rooms: one for living and sleeping, and the other for cooking and dining.
Today, approximately 150 tribal members reside within the Taos Pueblo full-time, while an additional 1,800 live elsewhere on the 99,000-acre Pueblo lands. The village is governed by a Tribal Governor, War Chief, and their staff, who are appointed annually by the Tribal Council, a body comprised of approximately 30 male tribal elders.
The Governor and his staff address civil and business matters within the village and manage relations with the outside world. The War Chief and his staff are responsible for protecting tribal lands, resources, and wildlife beyond the Pueblo walls. All adults residing on tribal lands are expected to contribute their services for community duties as needed.
The tribe deeply cherishes its culture and traditions. Their oral traditions and native language are unwritten and unrecorded. Much of their history, rituals, and traditions are considered sacred and are therefore off-limits to non-tribal members. Nevertheless, visitors to the Taos Pueblo can still appreciate the architecture and the hospitality of the Pueblo people.
Tourism, native crafts, and food concessions are vital components of the Pueblo economy. Numerous vendors can be found within the Pueblo, offering pottery, silver jewelry, leather goods, bread, and other items. While these shops are open to the public, visitors should refrain from entering any building unless it is clearly marked as a "shop," as these are private residences.
A prominent landmark within the Pueblo is the San Geronimo Church, constructed in 1850. Although it is one of the "youngest" buildings in the village, it exemplifies mission architecture and offers insights into how the tribe integrated its values into the Catholic religion. The church, designated as a National Historic Landmark, continues to function as an active place of worship, and visitors are asked to respect the "no photography" policy inside.
The remains of the original San Geronimo Church, destroyed in 1847, are also visible within the cemetery. However, visitors are not permitted to enter the cemetery itself.
One of the highlights of the summer season is the annual Taos Pueblo Pow Wow, a gathering of spiritual leaders and tribal members featuring costumed dancers, singers, and various ceremonies, as well as a wide array of vendors and artists. Other events are held throughout the year. The tribe also owns and operates the Taos Mountain Casino south of the Pueblo.
The Taos Pueblo is generally open to the public from 8 am to 4:30 pm, except during special ceremonies, tribal funerals, and a ten-week period in late winter/early spring. Admission and camera fees are charged.
When visiting the Taos Pueblo, it is essential to respect the following rules and etiquette guidelines: (Please refer to the original article for the specific rules and etiquette.)
The Taos Pueblo, with its rich history and enduring traditions, stands as a powerful symbol of resilience and cultural preservation. A visit to this remarkable place offers a unique opportunity to connect with the past and to witness the vibrant continuity of a living culture.