Virginia City, Montana – A Lively Ghost Town
Nestled high within the rugged embrace of the Rocky Mountains, in a natural amphitheater carved by Alder Gulch, lies Virginia City, Montana. Though often labeled a ghost town by definition, Virginia City pulses with a unique vibrancy, a living testament to the tumultuous era of the American West. This remarkably preserved historic city stands as one of the finest examples of the numerous mining camps that once dotted the western landscape, offering visitors a tangible connection to a bygone age of gold rushes and frontier justice.
The story of Virginia City began in 1863, sparked by the gleam of gold discovered within Alder Gulch. The initial discoverers, eager to keep their find secret, journeyed to Bannack, approximately 60 miles southwest, to replenish their supplies. However, their attempts at secrecy were thwarted when sharp-eyed prospectors noticed the weight and tell-tale shine of gold in their sacks. Upon the men’s return to Alder Gulch, they were followed by a wave of approximately 200 eager miners. The news of the discovery spread like wildfire, and soon the area was inundated with prospectors, constructing makeshift shelters from tents and crude shacks, seeking refuge in caves, or simply bedding down beneath the vast Montana sky.
This influx of hopeful fortune-seekers occurred against the backdrop of the American Civil War. While the lure of gold drew emigrants from across the globe, the majority of the newcomers were “rebels” from the Southern states. Just weeks after the initial discovery, on June 16th, a town company initiated the process of laying out the settlement. Their original intention was to christen the town "Verona," a misspelling of "Varina," the name of Jefferson Davis’ wife, the President of the Confederate States of America. However, Dr. G.G. Bissell, the newly elected miners’ court judge, a staunch Unionist, intervened and proposed the name "Virginia" instead, a name that ultimately prevailed.
The predominantly secessionist sentiment within the camp, situated within Idaho Territory and thus under Union jurisdiction, fostered a distinct "southern" atmosphere, with residents largely sympathetic to the Confederate cause. Adding to the complexity, the gold unearthed in the area held the potential to sway the outcome of the Civil War, depending on who could control it. Recognizing this strategic importance, President Abraham Lincoln dispatched Northern emigrants to the mining camp, intending to secure the gold for the Union. This deliberate action ignited tensions within the nascent city, quickly transforming it into one of the most lawless and volatile environments in the American West.
Within a single year, the population of the various mining camps along the gulch swelled to approximately 10,000 people. In 1864, Congress established the new territory of Montana, separating it from Idaho Territory. Bannack, the site of the initial gold strike, was designated as the territory’s first capital. However, Virginia City rapidly ascended in prominence, and within a year, it usurped Bannack’s position, becoming the new territorial capital. The city rapidly transformed from a collection of temporary dwellings into a bustling hub, boasting Montana’s first public school, newspaper, and telegraph.
Virginia City and the neighboring settlement of Nevada City became renowned as the site of the richest placer gold strike in the Rocky Mountains. It is estimated that a staggering $30 million worth of gold was extracted from the gulch within the first three years alone.
While some miners struck it rich in the goldfields, and even more businessmen amassed wealth, a darker element emerged, seeking riches through illicit means. Road agents, or highwaymen, preyed upon travelers and stagecoaches in the area. Although the historical record is debated, it was rumored that these bandits were led by none other than the Sheriff himself, Henry Plummer.
Miners, freight haulers, and stagecoaches frequently fell victim to these bandits, losing their valuables on the trails leading to and from Virginia City. In response, a secret society of vigilantes was formed to combat the rampant lawlessness. Lynchings became commonplace as the vigilantes hunted down suspected road agents, summarily executing them in the streets of Virginia City and Bannack. While historians now question the extent to which the crimes were committed by highwaymen, or perhaps even by the vigilantes themselves, the settlement was undeniably characterized by extreme lawlessness and violence.
As quickly as Virginia City boomed, its decline began. The discovery of gold in Last Chance Gulch in Helena drew away many of the fickle miners. Although gold continued to be found in the area, by the early 1870s, Virginia City’s population had dwindled to just a few hundred. In 1875, the territorial capital was moved to Helena, solidifying Virginia City’s trajectory towards becoming a ghost town.
Lode mining continued for years, but it never matched the profitability of placer mining. From 1898 to 1922, floating dredges ravaged several of the small mining camps along Alder Gulch, leaving behind mounds of tailings and dredge ponds. The dredging operations completely obliterated the original settlement of nearby Nevada City. However, Virginia City was spared this fate, as it had not been established upon gold-bearing gravel. During the decades of dredge mining, the area produced approximately $7 million in gold.
As the accessible gold deposits were depleted, so did the dredging operations. However, the surge in gold prices during the 1930s led to a revival of dredge mining, only to be halted again in the next decade with the onset of World War II.
Today, a few small-scale mining operations continue in the Virginia City area. However, most of the remaining gold is sought by hobbyists and recreational prospectors.
Virginia City has transformed into one of the best-preserved "ghost towns" in the American West, largely due to the efforts of Charles and Sue Bovey. Mr. Bovey, a Montana rancher and state legislator, and his wife, Sue, first visited Virginia City in 1944. Despite years of neglect and exposure to the elements, the town remained largely intact, thanks to the absence of significant fires and subsequent development.
Captivated by the historic city, the Boveys embarked on a mission of preservation, raising funds, collecting artifacts, purchasing and restoring buildings, and even reconstructing those that had been destroyed. Nevada City, which had been almost completely obliterated by dredge mining, was entirely rebuilt. Today, Nevada City functions as an outdoor historical museum, showcasing numerous historic buildings, artifacts, and furnishings.
Another project undertaken by the Boveys was the creation of a tourist court called "Daylight Village." Lodging was in high demand in the burgeoning revived ghost town, and the facility was established in 1946 on the eastern edge of Virginia City to meet this need.
The "village" comprised false-fronted motel units adorned with weathered lumber. Painted signs replicated businesses advertised in 19th-century editions of the Montana Post. The motel units were concealed behind these false fronts, creating a unique atmosphere that transported visitors back to the past. The village, consisting of some 40 buildings, is no longer in operation. Having fallen into disrepair, the buildings have not been maintained, as they are not considered "historic," and funding for renovation is unavailable. Nevertheless, they provide an intriguing glimpse into the past and offer excellent photo opportunities.
By 1978, the Boveys owned one-third of the town. However, in that same year, Charlie Bovey passed away, followed by Sue in 1988. Just a year later, many of the Bovey-owned properties were put up for sale.
In 1997, the Montana Legislature voted to purchase the Bovey properties in Virginia City and Nevada City, along with the majority of the artifacts. Today, the state owns approximately half of the historic structures in Virginia City and the entire community of Nevada City. The Montana Heritage Commission was established to manage these properties.
In addition to the more than 200 historic buildings preserved for tourists, Virginia City hosts several events for visitors, including the Heritage Days & Victorian Ball in August, the Virginia City Players’ variety productions at the Opera House, a narrow-gauge railroad, and the Brewery Follies at Montana’s first brewery. Furthermore, the city provides museums, shops, restaurants, and accommodations for the approximately 70,000 visitors who come to Virginia City each year.
Virginia City was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1961 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1976. Today, it boasts a population of 150 year-round residents and approximately 300 summer residents. It is located about 65 miles southwest of Bozeman, Montana.