When Wisconsin Was Discovered
Wisconsin, a land now synonymous with cheese, beer, and a vibrant Midwestern spirit, holds a rich and fascinating history predating its modern identity. Its story begins not with settlers and farms, but with explorers driven by dreams of far-off lands and the elusive Northwest Passage. Just as Christopher Columbus’s westward voyage in search of a shorter route to the Indies led him to an entirely new continent, the pursuit of a swift waterway to the legendary riches of China and Japan – the Cathay and Zipango of Marco Polo’s tales – ultimately guided a determined explorer to the heart of the North American continent, into what is now Wisconsin.
This pivotal moment occurred during an era when rivers and lakes served as nature’s highways, the primary arteries of commerce and exploration. The upper Mississippi River remained undiscovered, and the vast expanse stretching westward was largely unknown to Europeans. The prevailing belief held that the continent was narrow, and a short journey would lead to its western edge, perhaps even to China itself. It was in this context of geographical uncertainty and boundless ambition that the first European set foot on Wisconsin soil.
In 1634, a Parisian mail carrier’s son, Jean Nicolet, embarked on a journey that would forever alter the course of Wisconsin history. At the time, King Louis XIII reigned in France, and by the prevailing laws of nations regarding discoveries, the King, through Nicolet’s actions, could lay claim to this new territory. Nicolet’s arrival marked the beginning of European influence in the region, setting the stage for future exploration, trade, and eventual settlement.
Jean Nicolet’s expedition into what is now known as the Old Northwest commenced through the natural gateway of Green Bay, a significant arm of Lake Michigan. The French had established a presence along the St. Lawrence River a century prior, initiating their first settlements in Canada. However, the harsh winters, combined with hostile relations with some Indigenous peoples, hindered their westward expansion, and Montreal remained their furthest outpost. The vast territory encompassing present-day Wisconsin, Illinois, Minnesota, Indiana, and Ohio remained shrouded in mystery. Despite this, the persistent belief in a narrow continent fueled the dream of discovering a river route to the Orient, a modified version of Columbus’s vision enduring 150 years after his initial voyage.
The genesis of Nicolet’s journey lay in the tales brought back by Indigenous peoples to Quebec. These stories, often vague and susceptible to misinterpretation, spoke of the unknown western regions and further piqued the interest of French authorities eager to find a path to Cathay. A map meticulously crafted by Samuel de Champlain, the Governor of New France, just two years before Nicolet’s expedition, vividly illustrates the limited understanding of the region. The map inaccurately positioned Green Bay north of Lake Superior, while Lakes Huron and Ontario were directly connected. Lake Michigan was absent, unless Champlain’s "Lac des Puants," the common designation for Green Bay, was intended to represent it. An island, identified as a source of copper mines, was placed within Green Bay. Champlain, though aware of copper’s existence through an Indigenous gift, had never witnessed Niagara Falls and mistakenly depicted it as a series of rapids.
Indigenous accounts further fueled the expedition. They spoke of a nation residing westward, known as the "People of the Sea." These were the Wisconsin Winnebago (Ho-Chunk), who had migrated to the region around the lake that now bears their name. Champlain, however, believed them to be Chinese.
Champlain’s conviction that he had finally found a passage to China solidified after hearing fanciful descriptions of the "People of the Sea" and learning of their proximity to a large body of water. He selected Jean Nicolet, a man fluent in Algonquin languages and experienced in wilderness survival, as his ambassador. Nicolet embarked on his journey in July 1634, accompanied by Jesuit priests intending to establish a mission in the Huron country. They traveled together to the Isle de Allumettes, where they parted ways, and Nicolet continued with only Indigenous companions.
A map vividly illustrates the scope of Nicolet’s journey by canoe. Departing from Quebec, he navigated the St. Lawrence River to its confluence with the Ottawa River. He then ascended the Ottawa to the Mattawin River, a name signifying "Home of the Beaver." A narrow portage led him to Lake Nipissing, from which he descended the French River into Georgian Bay and Lake Huron. Skirting the Manitoulin Islands, he reached the "People of the Falls" at Sault Ste. Marie. Although Lake Superior lay just a few miles westward, there is no evidence that Nicolet ventured beyond the falls. Instead, he retraced his route, entering Lake Michigan through the Mackinac passage. Here, Nicolet became the first European to behold the vast expanse of this inland sea. He paddled along its northern shore, eventually reaching the Menominee River, which flows into Green Bay.
Upon reaching the Menominee settlement, Nicolet finally stood on Wisconsin soil. He believed he had arrived at the threshold of China. The Menominee people, who inhabited the area, possessed a lighter complexion compared to the Indigenous groups Nicolet had encountered previously. This difference was attributed by some to their consumption of wild rice as a staple food. Hearing that the Winnebago were a short distance away, Nicolet dispatched a Huron guide to announce his arrival to the "celestials" and prepared to meet them in a style befitting his ambassadorial role. He donned a vibrant robe, adorned with woven images of colorful birds and flowers.
The Winnebago, in turn, developed their own misconceptions about Nicolet. They regarded him as a Manitou, or spirit, a perception amplified when he dramatically discharged pistols into the air upon entering their territory. Despite the initial excitement, Nicolet was disappointed to discover that the "People of the Sea" wore moccasins and other Indigenous attire instead of fine silks. Displaying remarkable adaptability, he embraced the situation and fostered French interest in the Western tribes. He encouraged them to trade in Montreal and to maintain peace with French-aligned nations.
Nicolet’s arrival prompted a large gathering of Indigenous peoples. While one account exaggerated the number of attendees to 5,000, later estimates suggest a more realistic figure. A grand feast was held, consuming over one hundred beavers, along with numerous deer and other game.
Leaving the Winnebago, Nicolet journeyed up the Fox River, navigating the vast wild rice marshes until he reached the Mascouten tribe. He was now within a short distance of the Wisconsin River, a mere three-day journey that would have carried him to the Mississippi River. Instead, he traveled southward towards the Illinois country, missing the opportunity to discover the upper Mississippi River. It would be years later that Joliet and his party finally reached the Mississippi.
After his time among the Illinois and related tribes, Nicolet returned to the Green Bay area, likely traveling along Lake Michigan’s western coast. He visited the Potawatomi, who resided on the islands within the bay, and upon the arrival of spring, he returned to Montreal via the French and Ottawa Rivers.
Sadly, just six months later, Samuel de Champlain passed away. Internal issues within the colony prevented his successors from continuing exploration in the West. Nearly a quarter of a century would pass before another French explorer followed Nicolet’s path. Nevertheless, Nicolet had charted the course.
Nicolet’s later life held a poignant ending. A compassionate and courageous man, he was revered by both the French and Indigenous populations. He devoted his time to aiding the sick and fulfilling official duties in Three Rivers and Quebec. One evening, upon hearing that the Algonquin were torturing an Indigenous prisoner, he set out to intervene with several companions. A sudden squall capsized their boat, and the occupants clung to the wreckage. One by one, the waves washed them away. As Nicolet was about to be swept away, he called out to his companions, "I am going to God. I commend to you, my wife and daughter."
Through Wisconsin, civilization made its initial entry into the Mississippi River Valley. The arrival of Nicolet served as a prelude to significant events. While Anglo-Saxon colonists struggled to maintain their foothold on the Atlantic coast, the French boldly penetrated the continent’s heartland. The Anglo-Saxons progressed gradually, solidifying their gains, while the French acquired and lost territory with equal ease. The Anglo-Saxon colonists built on lasting foundations, while the French prioritized the present, neglecting the future. Had the French encouraged agriculture among their colonists rather than fur trapping, the history of Wisconsin might have unfolded differently.
The fall of New France occurred thirteen years before the American Revolution. Yet, even after the revolution and the War of 1812, Wisconsin remained essentially French for almost 200 years. During this period, the French coureurs de bois, the voyageurs, and the priestly wanderers traversed Wisconsin, each leaving their mark on the land.