White Cloud, Kansas – Not Quite Ghostly
This charming, albeit diminutive, Kansas town whispers tales of a vibrant past. Once a bustling metropolis teeming with over 2,000 residents, White Cloud, Kansas, now houses a population of fewer than 200 souls. While not quite a ghost town in the truest sense, the echoes of its former glory resonate through its quiet streets, hinting at a bygone era of steamboats, commerce, and frontier ambition.
Nestled strategically on the majestic bluffs overlooking the Missouri River, White Cloud, Kansas, occupied a pivotal position in the early days of the Kansas Territory. Its location made it a crucial port, a welcoming haven for the grand steamboats that navigated the river, laden with essential supplies destined for the burgeoning settlements further west. The docks, once a hive of activity, were frequently crowded with wagons, testament to the town’s thriving economy and significance as a gateway to the West.
The town’s prosperity continued unabated until the aftermath of the Civil War. The year 1860 marked a turning point, as the "iron horse," the railroad, made its inaugural appearance on Kansas soil. This transformative event shifted the flow of commerce, as supplies began to be transported more efficiently via the railways, gradually diminishing the reliance on steamboats and, consequently, the fortunes of river towns like White Cloud, Kansas.
Before the arrival of European settlers, the area surrounding what would become White Cloud, Kansas, served as a significant landmark for the famed Lewis and Clark expedition in 1804. Historical accounts and local lore suggest that the explorers utilized the area as both a vantage point and a place of rest during their arduous journey. According to a persistent local legend, the names of Lewis and Clark are etched into a stone located in close proximity to the town, a tangible reminder of their presence and exploration of the region.
Long before the arrival of white settlers, the land encompassing White Cloud was the ancestral domain of the Ioway tribe. The Ioway people, deeply connected to the land and its resources, established a thriving presence in the region. Their chief, Ma-Hush-Kah, whose name translates to White Cloud, resided in a sturdy double-hewed log house situated near the Missouri River at Iowa Point. Ma-Hush-Kah was a respected leader, guiding his people through the challenges and opportunities of their time. In 1854, tragedy struck when Ma-Hush-Kah lost his life in a battle against the Pawnee Indians, a tribe with whom the Ioway had a long-standing and bitter rivalry. The fallen chief was laid to rest near a prominent tree overlooking the Missouri River, a site that held deep significance for the Ioway people. Following Ma-Hush-Kah’s death, Nan-cha-nin-ga, also known as No Heart, assumed the mantle of leadership, becoming the head chief of the tribe.
The formal establishment of White Cloud as a town occurred in 1856, a mere two years after the passage of the Kansas-Nebraska Act, which opened the territories to white settlement. Two ambitious entrepreneurs, Enoch Spaulding and John H. Utt, recognized the potential of the location and meticulously laid out the plans for the new town. The first structure to be erected was a humble log cabin, quickly followed by the construction of frame buildings, including a drug store and several frame houses, one of which served as a hotel. In a tribute to the region’s Native American heritage, the town was named in honor of Ma-Hush-Kah, the esteemed chief of the Ioway tribe.
In the early months of 1857, the White Cloud Town Company was officially formed, capitalized with $45,000. The company’s leadership consisted of James Foster, Dr. H.W. Peter, and W.J. Gatling, the inventive mind behind the Gatling gun. Key members of the Town Company included Utt, Spaulding, and Cornelius Dorland, who would later hold the distinction of becoming White Cloud’s first mayor.
Initially, the Town Company faced challenges related to property rights and land ownership. To resolve these issues and establish clear titles, a grand land sale was organized on July 4, 1857. The event drew a massive crowd, with approximately two thousand people arriving on four steamboats to participate in the bidding. The auction was lively and competitive, with the final sale of lots amounting to a substantial $23,794. To celebrate the successful land sale and the future of White Cloud, a festive barbeque was held, speeches were delivered, and the St. Joseph’s band provided musical entertainment. With the celebration concluded, the Town Company promptly commenced the earnest construction of White Cloud.
During the same year, the burgeoning community began to attract professionals and essential services. A doctor and an attorney established practices in the town, providing much-needed medical and legal expertise. A post office was opened within a building adjacent to the drugstore, facilitating communication and connectivity. A mill owner named Mr. Orton, known for raising well-fed cattle, discovered that a deep well he had driven in a stockyard near the river was fed by natural mineral springs. Mr. C. Dorland was appointed as the first mayor of White Cloud, providing leadership and guidance to the rapidly developing community. White Cloud was rapidly evolving into a prominent city along the Missouri River, fueled by ambition and opportunity.
A steam ferry, lauded as one of the finest on the river, arrived from Wellsville, Ohio, on June 3, 1858. Captain John Lock operated the ferry, which serviced a now-vanished island located in the middle of the river north of White Cloud. The steamboat encountered an accident in 1867, resulting in significant damage that rendered it unable to continue serving customers. However, in May 1868, a new boat was constructed, allowing the ferry service to resume its operations.
Education was also a priority for the growing community. The first school in White Cloud was held in a small frame structure in the northwest part of town. However, the building was struck by lightning, forcing the school to close temporarily. A new brick school was built, and lessons resumed in February 1872, providing a more stable and permanent educational facility.
Religious life also flourished in White Cloud, with several churches being established early in the town’s history. These included the Methodist Episcopal Church, the First Congregational Church, and a Catholic Church. Later, in 1875, the Colored Baptist Church was established, reflecting the diversity of the community.
Economic activity was also diverse. The White Cloud City Mills, built in 1863 by John Utt, had the capacity to mill 120 bushels of wheat and 175 bushels of corn daily. A sawmill was later constructed, owned, and operated by George Adams, further contributing to the town’s industrial base. In 1868, Noyes & Moore built a grain warehouse near the river, facilitating the storage and transportation of agricultural products.
The bank of Springer & Emerson commenced business on March 18, 1881. Notably, the proprietors of the bank often placed their cashier, a woman named Annie King, in charge, demonstrating a level of trust and responsibility given to women in the community.
On July 29, 1875, White Cloud experienced its first murder. The victim was a widow who had married a man named Mr. Hurst. Their marriage was marred by constant quarrels and conflicts. After the marriage, Mr. Hurst developed a drinking problem, often flying into violent rages.
Just a week before Mrs. Hurst’s murder, her husband was arrested on abuse charges. Upon his release, Mr. Hurst attempted to see his wife without success. He convinced the marshal to accompany him, claiming he wished to resolve the conflict peacefully.
When the two arrived, Mrs. Hurst agreed to see him. Leaning over the fence, Hurst embraced her, then pulled out a large knife and cut her throat, severing her jugular vein and carotid artery.
Hurst surrendered to the Justice of the Peace. News of the murder spread quickly, and a lynch mob formed. The marshal, with a revolver at Hurst’s head, ordered him to put his head in the noose, but Hurst refused, leading to a struggle between the marshal and the Mayor’s men. Hurst and the Marshal were jailed, and Hurst was taken to Troy for safekeeping. Hurst was sentenced to be hanged but was later moved to an insane asylum.
By 1883, White Cloud boasted a diverse range of businesses, including four general stores, two grocery stores, three drug stores, a hardware store, a furniture store, two restaurants, two hotels, a livery stable, a barbershop, a gristmill, a sawmill, two shoe shops, two blacksmith shops, a jewelry store, a billiard hall, a harness shop, a wagon shop, a meat market, a printing office, a millinery store, two attorneys, four doctors, and several construction proprietors.
According to Sarah Ann Lock, a descendant of Captain John Lock and sawmill owner John Adams, the billiard hall/restaurant near the river on the north side of the street was once owned by her fiddle-playing great-grandpa LeRoy Butrick. Though Sarah resides in Tulsa, Oklahoma, she considers herself a "White Cloud girl!"
Despite the significant population decline caused by the arrival of the railroad, White Cloud continued to maintain some level of economic activity. In 1910, the town still supported two banks, a weekly newspaper, an opera house, and several other businesses. Stages ran daily to Forest City, Missouri, but the population had dwindled to 735 residents.
In the early 1900s, a ten-year-old boy, inspired by a missionary’s sermon about lepers, decided to raise money to help a boy suffering from the disease. He raised a pig named Pete, sold it, and donated the $25.00 to the boy. His compassion sparked the "Pig Bank Movement" to help lepers, and the term "piggy bank" was coined. A plaque commemorating the boy and the "piggy bank" idea is mounted on the Community Christian Church on Main Street.
Today, White Cloud, Kansas, is recognized for its numerous historic buildings. The entire downtown district has been placed on the National Register of Historic Places. One poignant reminder of White Cloud’s past is the Poulet Mansion, where the elegant design and intricate details can still be seen. However, this building, along with others, is slowly falling into disrepair.
The only apparent industry in White Cloud today is a grain elevator, where grain is still shipped downriver on barges to St. Joseph, Kansas City, and St. Louis. There are no open retail businesses, but the bank and the post office remain operational.
While White Cloud, Kansas is not a ghost town, with approximately 115 residents and a functioning post office, its prime is clearly in the past. This is evident in the abandoned stores on Main Street and the "closed" signs in the windows. However, this quiet little town, seemingly untouched by time, offers a peaceful escape from the city.
For two weekends each year, one in early May and the other in late August, the streets of White Cloud come alive once again. The near-ghost town is filled with visitors attending the famous White Cloud Flea Market, named one of the "10 best flea markets in the Nation" by McCall’s magazine.
During these weekends, the old main street is crowded with traders and customers, but the town returns to its sleepy state the next day, with only a few bits of trash blowing down the empty street.
The Iowa Tribe of Kansas and Nebraska retains the rights to 2,100 acres of reservation land, which straddles northeast Kansas and southeast Nebraska. The tribal headquarters are located just west of White Cloud. The tribe has been involved in gaming operations since opening a casino in 1998.
Hunting and fishing are abundant in the area, but much of the surrounding land is on the reservation, and visitors should check with the tribe for permission and regulations.
The Native American Heritage Museum, located in Highland, Kansas, exhibits information and items from the Iowa Tribe. It is housed in the old Iowa, Sac, and Fox Mission building, operated by the Kansas State Historical Society.
In early 2003, the Kansas Department of Transportation designated Highway K-7 from Leavenworth to the Kansas/Nebraska border as the Glacial Hills Scenic Byway. White Cloud is one of four communities along the byway, making it accessible to tourists who want to see the beauty of Kansas.