Zion National Park – Rising Above the Virgin River
Nestled in the southwestern reaches of Utah, Zion National Park stands as a testament to the powerful forces of nature and the enduring presence of human history. Spanning across 229 square miles, this remarkable landscape is a symphony of towering plateaus, intricate networks of deep sandstone canyons, and imposing rock formations, all sculpted over millennia by the relentless flow of the Virgin River. As Utah’s oldest national park, Zion National Park holds a special place in the hearts of both locals and tourists alike, attracting approximately three million visitors annually who come to marvel at its breathtaking beauty.
The story of Zion National Park is etched not only in its geological wonders but also in the lives of the people who have called this region home for thousands of years. Archaeological evidence suggests that human presence in the park dates back approximately 12,000 years, to a time when early inhabitants hunted now-extinct megafauna such as mammoths, giant sloths, and camels. As these large animals disappeared around 8,000 years ago, these nomadic people adapted, turning to hunting smaller game and gathering wild plants, seeds, and nuts for sustenance.
Around 2,000 years ago, the Ancient Puebloans, skilled farmers, began to populate the region. Unlike their counterparts in the east who constructed grand structures like those found in Chaco Canyon, New Mexico, the Ancient Puebloans of Zion favored a more modest lifestyle, living in small, seasonal pueblo groups consisting of only a few rooms. Their diet primarily consisted of corn, beans, and squash, which they cultivated using ingenious canal irrigation systems. They also supplemented their meals with gathered pine nuts and wild plants, as well as hunted deer, turkey, and rabbits. However, around 800 years ago, these early inhabitants mysteriously moved southeast, potentially due to a combination of factors, including prolonged drought and resource depletion.
For several centuries, the Fremont Indians coexisted in the region. Thriving between 400 A.D. and 1350 A.D., they established settlements in semi-subterranean "pit houses" and sought shelter in rock overhangs. Like the Ancient Puebloans, they were also farmers, but they relied more heavily on hunting and foraging for wild foods. Around 1350 A.D., they, too, disappeared from the region, leaving behind a legacy of adaptation and resilience.
Researchers believe that a confluence of environmental and social factors contributed to the departure of both the Ancient Puebloans and the Fremont Indians. Extended droughts in the 11th and 12th centuries likely strained resources, while catastrophic flooding events may have devastated their settlements. Furthermore, the arrival of the Paiute and Ute Indians, who were better adapted to the desert environment, may have led to increased competition for resources, ultimately prompting the earlier inhabitants to seek more sustainable homelands.
Around A.D. 1100, the Ute and Paiute Indians established themselves as the dominant inhabitants of the region. For the next three centuries, they lived a mobile lifestyle, relying primarily on hunting and gathering wild plants for sustenance. However, the Southern Paiute also practiced agriculture, planting fields of corn, sunflowers, and squash to supplement their diets. Their deep understanding of the desert environment allowed them to thrive in this challenging landscape.
The arrival of Euro-Americans in the late 1700s marked a significant turning point in the history of Zion National Park. Traders from New Mexico, blazing the Old Spanish Trail, were among the first to traverse the region, following the course of the Virgin River for a portion of their journey. This marked the beginning of increased contact and influence from the outside world.
The 19th century witnessed further exploration and settlement by American fur trappers and government surveyors, who established new overland travel routes across the region. Starting in 1847, Mormon pioneers began to settle in Utah, establishing numerous communities along the upper Virgin River, including Shunesberg, Springdale, Grafton, Adventure, and Paradise. In 1863, Issac Behunin built the first log cabin in Zion Canyon, near the present-day location of the Zion Lodge. Soon, the canyon was dotted with homesteads as more settlers sought to make a life in this rugged landscape.
In 1872, John Wesley Powell, renowned for his explorations of the American West, led a U.S. Geological Survey expedition through Zion Canyon, further documenting the area’s geological wonders. The early pack trails evolved into well-used wagon roads, connecting Santa Fe to the bustling markets of California, facilitating trade and transportation.
Despite their resilience and determination, the small communities and homesteads in the area faced numerous challenges throughout the remainder of the 19th century. Catastrophic flooding by the Virgin River frequently washed away crops and settlements, while the limited amount of arable land and poor soil quality made agriculture a risky endeavor. As a result, some settlements, including Shunesberg and Grafton, were eventually abandoned in favor of more favorable locations.
By the dawn of the 20th century, the unparalleled scenic beauty of southern Utah, particularly Zion Canyon, had captured the attention of those seeking unique travel destinations. In 1909, President William Howard Taft recognized the area’s significance by designating it Mukuntuweap National Monument. However, in 1917, the acting director of the newly established National Park Service visited the canyon and proposed renaming it Zion, replacing the locally unpopular Mukuntuweap. Despite its designation as a national monument, access to the area remained a significant challenge, as the existing roads were in poor condition, and the closest railhead was located a hundred miles away.
Recognizing the need for improved infrastructure, the Utah State Road Commission, established in 1917, embarked on a project to construct a state highway system that would eventually enhance access to the southern region. State officials also collaborated with the Union Pacific Railroad to develop rail and automobile links and tourism facilities in southern Utah. By the summer of 1917, touring cars could finally reach Wylie Camp, a tent camping resort that provided the first visitor lodging in Zion Canyon, marking a significant step forward in the development of tourism in the area.
In 1919, a landmark Congressional bill designating Zion National Park was signed into law, solidifying its status as a protected natural treasure. Visitation to the newly established national park steadily increased throughout the 1920s, particularly after the Union Pacific Railroad extended a spur rail line to Cedar City, making the park more accessible to travelers. The Utah Parks Company, a subsidiary of the Union Pacific Railroad, acquired Wylie Camp in Zion and began offering ten-day rail/bus tours to Zion, Bryce Canyon, the Kaibab Plateau, and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, further promoting tourism in the region. Construction of the iconic Zion Lodge complex, designed in the "Rustic Style" by architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood, commenced in the mid-1920s, providing visitors with comfortable and aesthetically pleasing accommodations.
In 1930, the completion of the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway, a remarkable feat of engineering that included a 5,613-foot tunnel through the sandstone cliffs, revolutionized travel through Zion National Park. This highway allowed motorists to traverse the park with ease, connecting it to other popular destinations in the region. At the time of its construction, the tunnel was the longest of its type in the world, showcasing the ingenuity and determination of the engineers and workers involved. Today, the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway remains open year-round, although access for oversized vehicles requires a special permit and is limited to daytime hours, as traffic through the tunnel must be one-way to accommodate large vehicles.
Today, Zion National Park continues to captivate visitors with its stunning landscapes and rich history. The park offers two visitor centers, scenic drives, guided tours, a network of hiking trails catering to all skill levels, opportunities for bicycling and horseback riding, and designated campgrounds for overnight stays. Lodging and dining options are available at the Zion Lodge, providing visitors with a comfortable and convenient base from which to explore the park. A national park entrance fee is required to visit, and the park welcomes approximately three million visitors each year, drawn by its unparalleled beauty and recreational opportunities.
Contact Information:
Zion National Park
Springdale, UT 84767-1099
435-772-3256