Fort Dalles, Oregon – Last Hurdle on the Oregon Trail
Fort Dalles, a pivotal landmark in the history of the American West, stands as a testament to the arduous journey of pioneers traversing the Oregon Trail. Located on the banks of the mighty Columbia River, at what is now The Dalles, Oregon, this former United States Army outpost played a crucial role in the westward expansion of the nation. Its story is intertwined with Native American history, missionary endeavors, military campaigns, and the dreams of countless settlers seeking a new life in the fertile lands of the Pacific Northwest. The name Fort Dalles evokes images of covered wagons, rugged soldiers, and the relentless spirit of the American frontier.
The strategic importance of the location predates the arrival of the U.S. Army. For centuries, the area served as a natural gathering place for various groups. Native American tribes, explorers charting unknown territories, fur traders seeking valuable pelts, and trappers navigating the vast wilderness all found respite and resources at this point along the Columbia River. The name "Dalles" itself originates from early French traders, who used the term "dalles" to describe the flat rocks or flagstones that characterized the riverbed. Over time, the word evolved to signify a place where the river, constricted by rocky formations, surged through narrow channels, creating formidable falls and rapids. These turbulent waters became known to the early frontiersmen as the "Grand Dalles," a natural obstacle that both challenged and defined the region. Understanding the significance of Fort Dalles requires acknowledging the geographical context that shaped its history.
Before the establishment of the military fort, the first permanent structure in the area was a Methodist Mission, founded in 1838 by the Reverend Jason Lee. This mission, named "Wascopam" after the local Wasco Indian tribe, was initially overseen by Lee’s nephew, Reverend Daniel Lee. The missionaries chose a site near a spring, distinguished by its rich soil and abundant timber, to establish their presence. A prominent rock formation, soon dubbed Pulpit Rock, served as the missionaries’ outdoor preaching platform. Adjacent to this natural landmark, they constructed several log buildings, including a dwelling house, a school, and various outbuildings, forming the nucleus of the Wascopam Mission. Three years later, a Catholic mission was established nearby, further solidifying the area’s religious significance. The early settlers recognized Fort Dalles as an important landmark.
Despite their initial efforts, the Methodist mission faced challenges in converting the local Native American population to Christianity. However, the mission played a vital role as a major stopping point for wagon trains completing the long and arduous journey along the Oregon Trail. For many pioneers, Wascopam represented the last major obstacle before reaching the promised land of the Willamette Valley. Exhausted, often ill, and sometimes half-starving, these emigrants faced the daunting task of navigating the Cascade Mountains, a formidable barrier that seemed insurmountable. The steep cliffs that plunged directly into the river’s edge forced pioneers to make difficult choices. Wagons were often abandoned or carefully disassembled, loaded onto makeshift rafts, and floated downriver to Fort Vancouver or the Willamette Valley. This perilous passage marked the final, and often most dangerous, leg of their overland journey.
The completion of the Barlow Road in 1846 significantly altered the landscape of westward migration. This new route provided an alternative overland passage into the Willamette Valley, bypassing the treacherous river passage at The Dalles. As a result, many emigrants shifted to the Barlow Road, leading to a decline in the importance of The Dalles as a primary transportation hub. In 1847, the Methodist Mission Society, recognizing the changing dynamics of the region, sold The Dalles Mission, their last active post in the Oregon country, to the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions. Dr. Marcus Whitman, representing the board, placed his nephew, Perrin B. Whitman, in charge of The Dalles Mission. However, Perrin Whitman departed in December of that year, shortly after the tragic Waiilatpu Massacre, which marked a turning point in relations between settlers and Native Americans. In the aftermath of the massacre, volunteer troops arrived from Fort Vancouver and occupied the abandoned mission site.
The primary objective of the arriving soldiers was to protect the growing number of settlers from escalating conflicts that ultimately led to the Cayuse War in 1848. Initially, the soldiers occupied the existing Methodist mission buildings, utilizing them as temporary quarters. Soon after, they began constructing a temporary stockade to provide a more secure and defensible position. During this period, the post was unofficially referred to as Fort Lee, a name that reflected its early, informal status. This marked the beginning of the military presence that would eventually transform the area into the strategic outpost known as Fort Dalles.
The official establishment of Fort Dalles occurred in 1850, when two rifle companies from Fort Vancouver arrived to establish a supply depot known as Camp Drum. This marked the formal recognition of the post by the U.S. Army. Soon after its establishment, Camp Drum was officially renamed Fort Dalles, solidifying its role as a permanent military installation. By 1852, a bustling town had sprung up around the fort, fueled by the influx of settlers, traders, and merchants drawn to the region. Fort Dalles quickly became the headquarters for military operations in central and eastern Oregon, responsible for protecting the area’s settlers and securing the vital Oregon Trail from potential Indian attacks.
The expansion of settlements and the discovery of valuable mineral resources led to increasing tensions with Native American tribes who had long inhabited the region. Resentment grew among the Yakama and allied tribes following the cession of a large portion of their ancestral lands to the U.S. Government in 1855. Spurred by the influential Yakama Chief Kamiakin, these tribes disavowed the treaties and retaliated against the perceived encroachment on their territory. The resulting conflict led to Colonel George Wright’s campaign, in 1856, with a formidable force of Infantry Regulars, which ultimately brought an end to the war. Fort Dalles served as a crucial base of operations during these turbulent times.
During the tumultuous years of the Civil War, some troops remained stationed at Fort Dalles, maintaining a semblance of order in the region. However, in August 1866, these troops were ordered to march out, leaving the post temporarily unoccupied. In December of the same year, soldiers returned to Fort Dalles, remaining until July of the following year. During this period, General George Crook’s troops utilized the post as a staging ground for his campaign against the Snake Indians, further underscoring the fort’s strategic importance in controlling the vast and often volatile territory. After Crook’s troops departed in July, the post was never permanently occupied again, marking the end of its active military service.
Today, only one original structure remains standing as a tangible reminder of the former military post – the surgeons’ quarters, erected in 1857. This historic building has been owned by the Oregon Historical Society since 1905 and is currently operated by the Wasco County-Dalles City Museum Commission. The Fort Dalles Museum, located at 15th and Garrison Streets in The Dalles, Oregon, offers visitors a glimpse into the fort’s rich history and the lives of those who served there. While the parade ground itself is now part of a private school site at 14th and Trevitt Streets, the legacy of Fort Dalles continues to resonate throughout the community.
Although nothing remains of The Dalles Mission, Pulpit Rock, the natural formation from which the missionaries first preached their sermons, still stands at 12th and Court Streets, serving as a poignant reminder of the early religious efforts in the region. A granite marker, situated in a triangular plot at 6th and Trevitt Streets, commemorates the mission’s historical significance.
The great rapids, which lent their name to both the fort and the town, are now submerged beneath the backwaters of The Dalles Dam, a massive hydroelectric project completed in 1957. While the physical landscape has been dramatically altered, the historical significance of Fort Dalles endures, a testament to the pivotal role it played in the westward expansion of the United States and the shaping of the Pacific Northwest. The story of Fort Dalles is a story of transformation, conflict, and the enduring human spirit.