Julesburg, Colorado – Wicked in the West
Nestled near the northern edge of Colorado, bordering Nebraska, lies the tranquil agricultural community of Julesburg. Today, it presents a picture of peaceful rural life, a far cry from its tumultuous past. But rewind to the 19th century, and you’ll find that this unassuming town was once notorious, earning itself the moniker "The Wickedest City in the West." This reputation stemmed from its pivotal role as a bustling way station along the era’s vital transportation routes, a crossroads for pioneers, soldiers, and those seeking fortune or a fresh start.
The story of Julesburg, Colorado, is deeply intertwined with the westward expansion of the United States. Long before white settlers arrived, the area was the ancestral home of various Plains tribes, including the Arapaho and Cheyenne. These indigenous peoples had established intricate networks of trails and settlements, living in harmony with the land for centuries. However, the 1840s brought a surge in Anglo-American traffic across the Colorado Plains, spurred by the organization of the Oregon Territory and, more significantly, the California Gold Rush of 1849. This influx of emigrants dramatically altered the landscape and the lives of the native inhabitants.
In 1856, U.S. Army Lieutenant Francis Bryan identified a Native American trail south of the South Platte River, pinpointing a crucial crossing point near present-day Julesburg, Colorado. The army quickly adopted this route, and in the wake of the 1859 Colorado Gold Rush, it became an integral part of the Overland Trail. Known by various names, including "Upper California Crossing" and "Morrell’s Crossing," the area transformed into a hive of activity, catering to the needs of westward-bound travelers.
Around 1858, a figure emerged who would leave an indelible mark on the area: Jules Beni. This half-French Canadian, half-Indian trapper established a small trading post and saloon along the Upper Crossing, strategically located on the south side of the Platte River between the modern towns of Ovid and Julesburg, Colorado. Initially, Beni focused on trading with the indigenous population, but with the California-Oregon Trail teeming with emigrants, he recognized a more lucrative opportunity in catering to their needs.
Beni’s establishment quickly evolved from a simple trading post into a burgeoning settlement. Soon, a cluster of buildings sprang up, including a saloon and restaurant, solidifying its position as a vital stopover point. It rapidly became one of the most well-known establishments between Missouri and Colorado, and the largest settlement along the 350-mile stretch between Fort Kearny, Nebraska, and the burgeoning mining town of Denver, Colorado. This strategic location transformed Julesburg, Colorado into a melting pot, a rendezvous point for traders, Indian fighters, buffalo hunters, adventurers, desperados, and bandits. Recognizing the potential for further growth, Beni expanded his operations, adding a warehouse, blacksmith shop, and stable. The settlement, naturally, became known as Julesburg, a testament to its founder’s influence.
The summer of 1859 marked another turning point for Julesburg, Colorado. The struggling Jones & Russell Stagecoach Line selected it as the point where its two westbound lines would diverge, one heading towards Denver and the other towards Salt Lake City, Utah. "Old Jules" Beni, with his established presence and understanding of the area, seemed the logical choice to manage the company’s station. However, Jones & Russell’s business soon faltered and was reorganized as the Central Overland, California & Pike’s Peak Express Company. Despite the change in management, the stage company continued to operate tri-weekly coaches to and from Denver, carrying passengers, gold, and other express items.
The express company then hired Joseph "Jack" Slade, a man renowned for his fearlessness and toughness on the frontier, as superintendent of Central Overland’s Sweetwater Division, which included Julesburg. Slade quickly discovered that Beni was not just a disinterested and corrupt station manager, but also an outright outlaw. This discovery led to Beni’s dismissal, igniting a fierce feud that would define the early history of Julesburg, Colorado.
The conflict between Slade and Beni escalated dramatically. In March 1860, Beni ambushed Slade, riddling him with bullets and buckshot. Miraculously, Slade survived and returned to his position, consumed by a thirst for revenge. The hunt for Beni began, and in August 1861, he was finally located near Cold Springs Station, Wyoming. Slade, without hesitation, shot Beni several times and, in a gruesome act, cut off his ears, reportedly keeping them as souvenirs, even using one as a watch fob.
Meanwhile, Julesburg, Colorado continued to thrive as a prominent stop along both the Overland Trail and the Pony Express. By 1862, the town boasted a hotel, several houses, and a general store. On April 2, 1862, a post office was officially established, further solidifying its importance.
However, the increased traffic on the trails also exacerbated tensions with the Plains Indians. Despite treaties with the Federal Government guaranteeing Native American sovereignty in exchange for safe passage for whites and the establishment of forts, these agreements were routinely ignored. This disregard for treaties fueled resentment and ultimately led to the Colorado War, a conflict fought between the Cheyenne and Arapaho Nations and white settlers and soldiers from 1863 to 1865. The number of conflicts peaked in the summer of 1864.
To protect the stage lines, emigrants, and the overland route to Denver, Camp Rankin (later renamed Fort Sedgwick) was established near Julesburg, Colorado in 1864. However, this military presence did little to quell the rising tensions. The situation reached a boiling point after the Sand Creek Massacre on November 29, 1864, when U.S. troops under Colonel John Chivington slaughtered over 150 peaceful Cheyenne and Arapaho Indians. This horrific event ignited a firestorm of anger, and the area Indians united to seek revenge on the whites.
In the early morning hours of January 7, 1865, a retaliatory force of approximately 1,000 Sioux, Cheyenne, and Northern Arapaho Indians attacked Fort Rankin. In the ensuing battle, 14 soldiers and four civilians were killed. Following the attack, the Indians moved swiftly towards the undefended settlement of Julesburg, looting the stage station, store, and warehouse, and carrying away a substantial amount of plunder. The warriors returned on February 2, 1865, and burned Julesburg, Colorado to the ground, though they refrained from attacking the soldiers and civilians who had taken refuge in the fort.
In the aftermath of the attacks, the residents of Julesburg, Colorado established a new townsite three miles east, just outside the Fort Sedgwick Military Reservation boundary. Some historians suggest that this relocation was motivated by a desire to circumvent regulations and facilitate the sale of whiskey. This new Julesburg served as a busy stage station until the arrival of the Union Pacific Railroad north of the river.
Yet another iteration of Julesburg, Colorado emerged when the end of the railroad track was moved several miles east. This community, known for its wicked and bawdy lifestyle, flourished during this period. Saloons, gambling houses, and prostitution parlors thrived as the population swelled to nearly 3,000. This era cemented its reputation as "The Wickedest City in the West," a place where both men and women were known to carry firearms openly.
J.P. Allen constructed the first hotel, and the Union Pacific Railroad arrived on June 23, 1867. By July 16, the town boasted a telegraph office and a large freight house owned by the stage company Wells Fargo. However, as the railroad continued its westward march, the town quickly declined and became known as Weir.
General Grenville M. Dodge famously described this period, stating, "No twenty-four hours passed without its contribution to Boot Hill, and homicide was performed in the most genial and whole-souled way."
Meanwhile, the U.S. Army’s victory over Cheyenne leader Tall Bull’s Dog Soldiers at the Battle of Summit Springs in 1869 marked a turning point, effectively ending Native American resistance on the Colorado plains. With the threat diminished, Fort Sedgwick declined in importance, and by 1870, only two barracks remained. The post was officially closed the following year.
As the railroad tracks continued to stretch westward, a fourth Julesburg, Colorado was established in 1886 at the junction of the Transcontinental Railroad and the Denver Branch of the Union Pacific Railroad. Located approximately four miles east of the third Julesburg, it was initially known as Denver Junction but was soon renamed Julesburg, the last namesake of Jules Beni. This new Julesburg became an important shipping hub for the area’s agricultural produce. The town was incorporated in 1886, signaling a shift towards a more settled and agricultural-based community.
In 1889, Sedgwick County was organized from a part of Logan County, and Julesburg was designated as the county seat.
In 1919, Julesburg’s first theater building was constructed specifically for the exhibition of motion pictures. The Hippodrome Theatre, located at 215 Cedar Street, exemplifies the fantasy architecture of many small-town and neighborhood theaters constructed before 1930. It remains a movie theater today and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Following the area’s sugar beet boom in the 1920s, the Union Pacific Railroad opened a new passenger and freight depot in Julesburg, Colorado in 1930. Rail service facilitated the transportation of passengers, crops, cattle, and locally manufactured items to points east and west of Julesburg. The Denver branch allowed local citizens to travel to and from the city and enabled area merchants to get their goods to market. Today, this building, also listed on the National Register of Historic Places, serves as a museum.
Like countless other towns on the Great Plains, Julesburg, Colorado suffered from the devastating effects of the Great Depression and the Dust Bowl in the 1930s.
Thanks, in part, to funding from the Works Progress Administration (WPA), one of President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s New Deal initiatives, Sedgwick County gained a new courthouse in 1939. The building replaced a 1904 facility and, located at 315 Cedar Street, is an excellent example of the WPA Art Deco style applied to many government buildings during that era. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it continues to serve as the courthouse today.
Today, Julesburg, Colorado is home to approximately 1,241 residents, and agriculture remains the cornerstone of its economy.
Julesburg’s rich history is preserved and showcased at the Fort Sedgwick Museum at 114 E 1st Street, open year-round, and the Depot Museum at 201 W 1st Street, open during the summer season.
One of the best ways to explore the area’s history is by following Colorado’s shortest scenic byway – the South Platte River Trail. Beginning at the Colorado Welcome Center at 20934 County Road 28, this 19-mile loop features interpretive signage at the original Julesburg townsite, Colorado’s only Pony Express home station, and Fort Sedgwick. Additional markers commemorate the other three Julesburg townsites, the Transcontinental Railroad, and the Lincoln Highway – the first coast-to-coast automobile road in the United States.