Haskell to Morton Counties on the Santa Fe Trail in Kansas
The Santa Fe Trail stands as a powerful testament to the spirit of westward expansion in 19th-century America. This vital trade route, stretching from Missouri to Santa Fe, New Mexico, facilitated the exchange of goods and cultures, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape and the lives of those who traversed it. Within the state of Kansas, the trail carved two distinct paths: the Mountain Route and the Cimarron Route. This article will focus on the Cimarron Route, specifically detailing its passage through Haskell, Grant, Stevens, and Morton Counties, revealing the challenges, landmarks, and historical significance found within this section of the legendary trail.
The Cimarron Cutoff: A Shorter, Riskier Path
The Santa Fe Trail‘s Cimarron Route, also known as the Cimarron Cutoff, presented a tempting alternative to the longer, more mountainous path. It offered a significant reduction in travel time, making it a popular choice, especially during the trail’s early years. However, this shortcut came with considerable risks. The most daunting of these was "La Jornada," a grueling 50 to 60-mile stretch characterized by arid terrain and a severe scarcity of water. This waterless expanse tested the endurance of both humans and animals, often pushing them to the brink of collapse. Adding to the peril were the frequent attacks by Native American tribes, who viewed the encroaching wagon trains with suspicion and hostility. The threat of these encounters eventually led to a shift in preference towards the Mountain Route, despite its longer distance.
Haskell County: A Swift Passage
The Santa Fe Trail makes a relatively brief, but historically notable, appearance in Haskell County. Entering near the northeast corner, the Cimarron Route cuts a southwesterly course across the landscape. It weaves between the now-vanished towns of Ivanhoe and Santa Fe. A marker stands as a silent witness to this history, located north of the abandoned townsite of Santa Fe, near the Ivanhoe Cemetery. From there, the trail continues its southwesterly trajectory, exiting the county midway along its western border. While Wild Horse Lake lies to the north, Haskell County lacks significant stopping points along the trail’s approximately 27-mile passage.
Grant County: Wagon Bed Spring – An Oasis and a Tragedy
As the Santa Fe Trail ventures into Grant County, it does so midway along the eastern boundary. Its southwesterly direction leads it to a critical landmark: Wagon Bed Spring. This vital water source is located on the North Fork of the Cimarron River, near the former townsite of Zionville. Wagon Bed Spring was a point where the route joined with the trail to the Upper Crossing and Chouteau Island in Kearny County.
Wagon Bed Spring represented a welcome respite after traversing the "Jornada." This perilous 60-mile stretch from the Arkansas River tested the mettle of all who dared to cross it. During dry seasons, the lack of water could prove fatal. The spring provided desperately needed refreshment for both people and livestock. However, the location was also a hotspot for attacks by Plains Indians, who targeted vulnerable caravans.
The area surrounding Wagon Bed Spring also bears witness to a darker chapter in the history of the West. It was near here in 1831 that Jedediah Strong Smith, a renowned explorer and fur trader, met his untimely demise. After becoming lost and without water for four days, Smith was killed by Comanche Indians just as he reached the Cimarron River. Today, Wagon Bed Spring can be accessed about 11 miles south and a half mile west of Ulysses, Kansas. The Wagon Bed Spring Chapter has created a display near the original location. The display depicts the spring as it appeared during the trail’s active years. Numerous trail ruts remain visible in the surrounding area, offering a tangible connection to the past.
Stevens County: Following the River’s Course
The Santa Fe Trail‘s journey through Stevens County is characterized by its close proximity to the Cimarron River. The trail generally parallels the river’s course as it winds through the northwest portion of the county. However, Stevens County lacks significant landmarks or established camping grounds. The exact path of the trail in this area is somewhat ambiguous. At times, travelers stayed close to the river. At other times, they ventured several miles away. This created two distinct routes: the "river route" and the "upland route."
Morton County: Middle Spring and Point of Rocks
Morton County holds a significant portion of the old Santa Fe Trail within its borders, approximately 30 miles in total. Entering about eight miles south of the northeast corner, the trail continues to follow the Cimarron River until it reaches Middle Spring, also known as Cimarron Spring. This spring is located about nine miles north of present-day Elkhart, Kansas. After Wagon Bed Spring (Lower Spring), Middle Spring was the next reliable water source in the Cimarron Valley, making it a crucial stopping point and campsite. Today, the site can be accessed by traveling eight miles north of Elkhart on Kansas Highway 27, then about one mile west on a dirt road through the Cimarron National Grassland. A small, enclosed park marks the location on the north side of the road.
A short distance from Middle Spring lies another notable landmark: Point of Rocks. Situated within the Cimarron National Grassland, this elevated site served as a strategic lookout point. Both Native Americans and traders used Point of Rocks to survey the Cimarron Valley. One branch of the trail passed between the rock formation and the river. Today, the landmark remains surrounded by grasslands, and wagon ruts can still be seen, providing a glimpse into the past. Point of Rocks is located approximately one-half mile west of Middle Spring.
The Santa Fe Trail continues its path through Morton County, exiting about seven miles north of the southwest corner. Beyond Kansas, the Cimarron Route continued to trace the Cimarron River, alternating between sides as it passed through parts of present-day Colorado and Oklahoma. This journey spanned approximately 60 to 65 miles before finally entering the northeast corner of New Mexico.
Legacy of the Trail
The Santa Fe Trail‘s Cimarron Route, despite its inherent dangers, played a pivotal role in the history of the American Southwest. Its passage through Haskell, Grant, Stevens, and Morton Counties left a tangible legacy in the form of trail ruts, historical markers, and the memories of those who braved its challenges. These counties stand as a reminder of the perseverance, ambition, and sometimes tragic consequences of westward expansion. The Santa Fe Trail remains a powerful symbol of a transformative era in American history.