Great Bend, Kansas – Booming on the Santa Fe Trail

Nestled in the heart of central Kansas, the city of Great Bend stands as a testament to the transformative power of westward expansion and the enduring spirit of the American frontier. Serving as the county seat of Barton County, this vibrant community boasts a rich history deeply intertwined with the Santa Fe Trail, the legendary artery of commerce and exploration that once pulsed through the vast expanse of the Great Plains. Before the arrival of European explorers and settlers, the land surrounding present-day Great Bend was the ancestral domain of various Plains Indian tribes, who for centuries had thrived on the bounty of the land and lived in harmony with its rhythms.

The first significant incursion into this indigenous territory came in 1541 with the expedition of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, a Spanish conquistador driven by dreams of untold riches. Though Coronado’s quest for gold proved futile, his journey marked the beginning of European awareness of this region and its potential. However, it was not until the development of the Santa Fe Trail in the early 19th century that the area began to experience a significant influx of people and activity. This vital trade route, stretching from Franklin, Missouri, to Santa Fe, New Mexico, cut directly through the land that would eventually become Great Bend, leaving an indelible mark on its development and character.

The Santa Fe Trail brought not only commerce but also conflict. The trail’s presence led to frequent skirmishes between settlers and Native American tribes defending their land. Alongside these struggles came tales of rugged frontiersmen, daring cowboys, and the rough-and-tumble atmosphere that defined the Wild West. The spirit of these early days continues to resonate in Great Bend today, adding a layer of intrigue and fascination to its identity.

Barton County was established in 1867, but it remained sparsely populated in its early years. It was not until the population reached a sufficient level that the county could be officially organized and operate independently. Until then, Barton County was administratively attached to Ellsworth County for judicial and revenue matters.

The year 1870 marked a turning point, with the arrival of the first permanent settlers. These pioneers, undeterred by the harsh conditions and the threat of conflict, carved out a life for themselves on the prairie. They initially lived in rudimentary dwellings, often dugouts or sod houses, with strategically placed openings in the walls to defend against potential attacks. Survival depended on their ability to hunt buffalo and other game, providing essential food and hides. The tanned hides were a valuable commodity, traded with eastern markets. Early attempts at farming proved challenging, as herds of buffalo often trampled the crops, highlighting the difficulties of establishing agriculture in this untamed landscape.

By 1871, the population had grown sufficiently to warrant a petition to the governor, requesting the formal organization of the county. In anticipation of this, and fueled by the promise of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad’s arrival, the Great Bend Town Company was formed to lay out the town site. The town’s name was inspired by the prominent "great bend" of the Arkansas River, a distinctive geographical feature that had long served as a landmark for travelers along the Santa Fe Trail.

Edward J. Dodge was the first to make a homestead entry on January 23, 1871, followed by D. N. Heizer in May of the same year. Other early settlers included John Cook, W. H. Odell, Thomas Morris, George Moses, and Wallace Dodge, each contributing to the nascent community’s growth and development.

The Great Bend Town Company took the initiative to construct the first building, the Southern Hotel, in the fall of 1871. It was located on what would become the northwest corner of the public square. Shortly thereafter, Edwin Tyler erected a building just south of the Southern Hotel on the west side of the square. This structure served a dual purpose, with one part functioning as a dwelling and the other as the town’s first store. For several months, these two buildings stood as the only signs of civilization in the fledgling town.

The spring of 1872 brought renewed activity, with James Holland constructing another store on the north side of the square. However, tragedy struck when Holland journeyed east to purchase goods and mysteriously disappeared, presumed to have been murdered for his money.

Despite this setback, the town continued to grow. In May, A.S. Allen opened a drug store on the west side of the square, followed by a grocery and provision store by Ed Markworth, a hardware store by E.L. Morphy, and another grocery store by John Cook. The Typer House hotel was also built on the east side of the square. On June 17, 1872, Great Bend was officially incorporated as a city.

The arrival of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad on July 15, 1872, further accelerated the town’s growth, attracting even more settlers and businesses. That same year, the first publication in the county, the Arkansas Valley, was established, primarily as a railroad publication, though its lifespan was brief.

In 1873, Great Bend held its first election, with A.A. Hurd elected as mayor. Other officers and commissioners were also elected, and in a crucial decision, Great Bend was chosen as the county seat, prevailing over rival towns Ellinwood and Zarah.

That same year, the Barton County Progress newspaper was launched, although it lasted only a few months. Recognizing the need for education, the citizens voted to issue bonds for the construction of a public school. A two-story frame schoolhouse was erected one block west of the public square. A two-story stone and brick courthouse was also built in the center of the public square. The first stone and brick business building was constructed on the north side of the square. While other frame businesses and dwellings were built, this was the only substantial improvement until 1876.

The period from 1873 to 1875 was a transformative era for Great Bend, as it became a major cattle shipping center, earning its place among the infamous Kansas cowtowns. The cattle trade typically began around June 1 and continued until mid-October, bringing both prosperity and challenges to the community.

The influx of cowboys and cattlemen brought significant economic advantages for the merchants, but it also led to increased lawlessness and disorder, causing concern among the more peaceable residents. Shoot-outs were not uncommon, with the first occurring on July 2, 1873, when Marshall Gainsford killed a drunken buffalo hunter in self-defense.

By 1875, Great Bend boasted nine saloons, a testament to the booming cattle trade. However, this also attracted a less desirable element, including thugs and harlots, who were seen as a curse to the community. In 1876, the Kansas Legislature passed a law establishing a "deadline" 30 miles west of Barton County, prohibiting Texas cattle from being brought east unless they had overwintered in the state. This legislation effectively moved the cattle trade westward, relieving Great Bend of its cowtown status and the associated problems.

In the meantime, two more newspapers were launched: the Great Bend Register in 1874, which would endure for decades, and the Inland Tribune in 1876. Also in 1876, A.S. Allen constructed a two-story stone and brick building on the corner of Curtis Avenue and Nagie Street, housing his drug store on the first floor and offices on the second. Around the same time, Gray & Baily built a similar structure on the north side of the square, which was occupied by W.H. Dodge & Son as a hardware store. W.W.P. Clement also built a flouring mill.

The first church was built by the Catholic congregation in 1877, prior to which various denominations had met in private homes. A Methodist Church was built the following winter, followed by several others in subsequent years, reflecting the growing religious life of the community.

In 1878, Great Bend experienced significant improvements, including the construction of the Union Block on the west side of the square by J. H. Hubbard and Burton and the Moses Brothers. This two-story stone and brick building contained two storerooms, offices, and a Union Hall. G.L. Brinkman erected a two-story stone and brick building on the north side of the square. G. P. Townseley built a similar structure on Nagie Street, with the lower story housing the post office and the upper story housing the printing office of the Inland Tribune. C. F. Wilner built a two-story stone and brick building across the street, housing a furniture store. Other buildings included the frame Occidental Hotel and the Central House. Three grain elevators were also built, and the Walnut Creek Mill was enlarged and refitted with new machinery.

While construction slowed in the following years, a larger brick schoolhouse was built in 1882. However, this year also brought a devastating smallpox epidemic, which began on December 1, 1882, and lasted until February of the following year. The outbreak began when a man named Gilmore, traveling east from New Mexico, fell ill and disembarked the train in Great Bend. He was taken in by John Howell in a small shanty on the northeast side of town. Gilmore was diagnosed with a highly contagious form of smallpox. Word of the outbreak spread rapidly, causing many residents to flee. Despite quarantining Howell’s home, the disease spread, and the entire town was placed under strict quarantine for two months. The streets were deserted, mail service was suspended, churches and schools were closed, and public gatherings were prohibited. Approximately 30 people contracted the disease, and 15 died, including Gilmore and John Howell.

Although its lawless cowtown days were over, violence still occurred periodically. On April 30, 1885, the first lynching took place when the murderer of a pool hall owner was lynched. A few years later, in 1889, the last buffalo was killed in the county.

A second lynching occurred on June 16, 1898, when some 300 vigilantes lynched the murderer of a 15-year-old girl named Myrtle Hofmaster.

By the early 1900s, Great Bend was home to over 1,000 residents and supported 34 businesses, including eight merchandise stores, seven grocery stores, three hardware stores, two banks, three grain elevators, two flour mills, and a brickyard.

The city continued to develop as a regional trade and service center. The discovery of oil in the 1930s led to further growth. From 1930 to 1940, the town’s population nearly doubled as approximately 3,000 oil wells began production in the surrounding area.

During World War II, a U.S. Army Air Corps training base was located in the city. The town’s population peaked in the 1960s at close to 17,000. In 1973, the Fuller Brush Company relocated its factories to Great Bend from Connecticut after the founder’s death.

Today, with a population of around 15,300, Great Bend remains a vibrant community, serving as a medical, legal, and technical service center and a regional shopping and entertainment destination.

Great Bend’s and Barton County’s history is preserved at the Barton County Historical Society Museum and Village. The museum features restored historic buildings, including an 1871 pioneer home, an 1898 church, a 1910 train depot, a 1915 one-room schoolhouse, and a small post office. It is located at 85 S. Hwy 281. The Kansas Oil & Gas Hall of Fame Museum, located at 5944 W. 10th Street, showcases the area’s oil and gas production history.