Hangtown or Bust!
By Anthony Belli
"We were in the domain of the dreaded Indian, with rivers to ford and deserts to cross before we would reach civilization again. Cholera was claiming its victims on the trail before us, but the lure of gold urged us on."
— California Bound Pioneer
The year was 1848. News had spread like wildfire: James Marshall had struck gold at Sutter’s Mill in California. The promise of untold riches ignited a feverish ambition, and within a year, over 80,000 souls, predominantly men, embarked on the arduous journey to California, driven by the intoxicating allure of the Gold Rush. Soon, fortune seekers from every corner of the globe joined the frantic rush. By January 1850, the era of the archetypal "49er" was already fading. While the apex of the Gold Rush stretched from 1851 to 1852, a period of immense opportunity and frenzied activity, disillusionment began to creep in. As some miners, pockets empty and dreams shattered, trickled back east, a new wave of settlers, families seeking a fresh start, began their trek westward in 1852. These were not the solitary, gold-hungry miners of previous years. They were farmers, merchants, artisans – individuals and families seeking to establish new lives and capitalize on the burgeoning opportunities that California offered beyond the goldfields.
Among the countless wagon trains heading west, one originated in Galena, Illinois. Within this group was a young woman named Pauline Wonderly, just fifteen years old, who meticulously documented her family’s perilous odyssey into the American frontier. Her writings paint a vivid and unflinching picture of the realities of westward expansion – a saga of life and death intertwined. Her story reveals the hardships and triumphs of survival, the ever-present threat of violence and disease, and the resilience of the human spirit in the face of unimaginable adversity. But it is also a story of simple joys, new beginnings, and the enduring power of family in the face of the unknown.
The Wonderly family’s journey began on April 15, 1852, when their small caravan departed Galena. The outfit consisted of four men – Pauline’s father, uncle, and two other hired hands – alongside her mother and two younger brothers, aged eight and two. They traveled in two light wagons, drawn by four yokes of oxen and accompanied by two cows. Their destination? Hangtown, or bust! Space within the wagons was limited, so the decision was made that Pauline would walk, a testament to her youthful endurance. With the exception of river crossings, she traversed the vast majority of the distance on foot.
After crossing the mighty Mississippi River via ferry into Iowa, the pioneers encountered an unexpected obstacle: snow. The unseasonable weather rendered the roads nearly impassable. Creeks and rivers, swollen by melting snow and spring rains, became raging torrents, making fording impossible. Ingenuity and determination prevailed. The wagons were disassembled, and the wagon beds were used as makeshift rafts. Secured by a heavy rope, passengers and belongings were ferried across the treacherous waters. Pauline described the relief they felt upon reaching the opposite bank, writing, "We sat in the wagon bed, very much relieved when we reached the other side."
One month after leaving Galena, on May 12th, the small pioneering party reached Council Bluffs, a significant Mormon settlement. Pauline recorded, "This Mormon settlement was the last civilized place we were to pass through," marking a significant transition from the familiar comforts of the East to the untamed wilderness of the West.
Ten days after departing Kanesville, the Wonderly family’s outfit arrived at the site of the Elk Horn Crossing Massacre, a stark reminder of the conflicts between settlers and Native Americans. Pauline noted in her diary, "They [Indians] were burying their dead when we arrived. We were very much frightened for fear they would take vengeance on us, but they retaliated by burning the bridge." The Elk Horn Crossing Massacre was a tragic incident triggered by an earlier wagon train refusing to pay a toll of 25 cents per wagon to cross a bridge built by the local tribes. The refusal escalated into violence, resulting in the murder of eleven Native Americans.
The ever-present threat of Indian attacks prompted smaller outfits to consolidate and travel in larger groups. Pauline’s family joined Captain Meeker’s wagon train, as well as the Bundy family, who were headed for Oregon with their eight children. The Bundys, initially eager to press ahead due to their possession of horses, soon separated from the main train. However, tragedy struck swiftly. Within days, the Bundy family was decimated by cholera. Mr. Bundy, followed by his eldest and youngest daughters, succumbed to the disease and were buried along the trail. Heartbroken and alone, Mrs. Bundy bravely continued her journey to the Oregon frontier with her remaining children.
On June 7th, while traveling through Nebraska, Pauline’s mother gave birth to a baby girl. The family temporarily detached from the wagon train for the delivery but quickly rejoined the group, highlighting the relentless pace and unforgiving nature of the journey. As they continued westward, the pioneers encountered a grim encampment of men, many succumbing to the ravages of cholera. They passed through the formidable Devil’s Gate in Wyoming on June 30th, a narrow gorge carved by the Sweetwater River, a landscape that inspired both awe and apprehension.
With the arrival of a newborn, Pauline took on increased responsibilities, managing the cooking and laundry while her mother tended to the infant. Misfortune struck again when one of their wagons, along with crucial kitchen utensils, was lost during a difficult crossing of the swollen Green River. Despite the setback, the lighter load allowed them to make better progress. On July 18th, they reached Soda Springs, a unique geological area with numerous carbonated springs. The following day, the Wonderly family made a pivotal decision, leaving the well-trodden Oregon Trail and branching off towards California, their ultimate destination. They reached Goose Creek, Nevada, on July 30th.
From August 5th to the 24th, the weary travelers faced a grueling series of crossings and re-crossings of the Humboldt River, thirteen times in total. Spirits were low, provisions were dwindling, animals were exhausted, and the wagons were on the verge of collapse. The final obstacle was the dreaded desert, a 26-mile stretch of arid landscape that tested the limits of endurance. Pauline vividly described the scene in her journal: "The whole length of the trail was marked by abandoned wagons, bodies of animals, especially of horses, furniture, cooking utensils, in fact, whole outfits. Graves also dotted the way." The desert was a graveyard of broken dreams and shattered hopes.
Upon reaching Rag Town (present-day Carson City), the family sold their remaining cattle to replenish their dwindling supplies. They arrived in Hot Springs (now Genoa) on August 30th and began their ascent over the formidable Sierra Nevada mountains on September 2nd. The original wagon train began to fragment, with some parties splitting off at the Ringgold Trail. Only two outfits from the initial train, the Wonderly and Unger families, pressed on towards Hangtown. They finally arrived on the evening of September 10th, exhausted but triumphant.
Pauline vividly recalled her first encounter with a Chinese immigrant and the family’s initial settlement in Diamond Springs. Later, she was reunited with the Schneider family, who had taken the Ringgold cut-off on September 2nd and were operating a hotel in Ringgold. In time, the Wonderly family established themselves in Missouri Flat. During her early years in El Dorado County, Pauline witnessed the devastating fires of 1856 that ravaged Placerville and Diamond Springs. She also recounted the tragic murder of Susan Newham by Jeremiah Crane and the subsequent actions of the Ringgold lynch mob that sought swift justice. But that, as she noted, is another story. This pioneer’s tale from the arduous journey to Hangtown reveals that the final destination was only the beginning of a new life.
This journey, with its challenges and triumphs, encapsulates the experience of countless families who risked everything for a chance at a better life in California. Their stories, like Pauline Wonderly’s, are a testament to the enduring spirit of the American pioneer and the allure of the West. The destination, Hangtown, represented more than just a place on a map; it symbolized hope, opportunity, and the promise of a new beginning.
The phrase "Hangtown or Bust!" captures the unwavering determination and all-or-nothing attitude of those who embarked on this perilous journey. This relentless pursuit of prosperity and a better future is what defined the spirit of the California Gold Rush and the westward expansion of the United States. Hangtown, now known as Placerville, stands as a symbol of this transformative period in American history.
The hardships endured during the journey to Hangtown were immense, yet the pioneers persevered, driven by the dream of a brighter future. The stories of resilience, resourcefulness, and community support that emerged from this era continue to inspire generations. The legacy of Hangtown and the California Gold Rush remains a vital part of American folklore and history.
