Ancho, New Mexico – Returning to Nature
Nestled in the southeastern expanse of New Mexico, approximately 23 miles north of Carrizozo, lies the almost-forgotten community of Ancho. Once a bustling hub of railroad activity and ranching endeavors, today, Ancho, New Mexico stands as a poignant reminder of bygone eras, a place where nature is slowly reclaiming its territory. Its story is a microcosm of the American West, reflecting the ebb and flow of fortune, the allure of opportunity, and the inevitable march of time.
The genesis of Ancho can be traced back to the dawn of the 20th century. The fertile valley attracted pioneering families seeking a new life, drawn by the promise of arable land and open spaces. Soon after, homesteaders arrived, recognizing the region’s potential for raising livestock, primarily sheep and cattle. These hardy individuals laid the foundation for Ancho’s early economy, transforming the landscape into grazing pastures. Accompanying the agricultural wave were the prospectors. The surrounding gypsum hills whispered tales of hidden riches, luring miners in search of precious metals, adding another layer to the town’s burgeoning identity.
A pivotal moment in Ancho’s history occurred in 1902 with the discovery of a significant gypsum deposit. This discovery led to the establishment of the Gypsum Product Company plaster mill, immediately injecting industrial activity into the fledgling community. Simultaneously, Ancho officially became a recognized settlement with the establishment of a post office, with Frank J. Bush appointed as its first postmaster, solidifying the town’s place on the map. That same year, a settler named Bosque, hailing from Iowa, arrived and recognized the potential in the region’s fire clay. Seizing this opportunity, he established the Ancho Brick Plant in 1905, further diversifying the town’s economic base.
The year 1905 also marked a significant turning point in Ancho’s development: the arrival of the railroad. The construction of the depot served as a lifeline, connecting the remote community to the wider world, facilitating trade, and fostering growth. Ancho, New Mexico, quickly transformed into a vital transportation hub, its depot a symbol of progress and connectivity.
The year 1906 witnessed a surge in demand for Ancho’s resources. Following the devastating earthquake and fire that ravaged San Francisco, the town became a crucial supplier of plaster and brick, contributing to the city’s reconstruction efforts. The kilns roared, and the trains rumbled, carrying vital building materials westward, solidifying Ancho’s role in a national crisis.
However, the tides of fortune began to turn in 1917. The Ancho Brick Plant, initially a source of prosperity, was sold to the Arizona-based Phelps Dodge Corporation. The corporation invested heavily, constructing a new 16-kiln plant at a cost of $150,000. Despite the initial investment, the venture proved unprofitable, leading to the plant’s bankruptcy in 1921. This economic downturn dealt a significant blow to the small community. Many residents were forced to seek opportunities elsewhere, resulting in a decline in population. Yet, despite the setback, Ancho, New Mexico persevered, its resilience fueled by the remaining railroad operations and the enduring ranching industry.
The Great Depression, a period of widespread economic hardship across the nation, paradoxically brought a temporary reprieve to Ancho. As families struggled to survive, many sought refuge in the nearby Jicarilla Mountains, hoping to strike it rich through gold mining. This influx of prospectors temporarily boosted Ancho’s population, breathing new life into the struggling community. However, once the economy began to recover, the gold seekers moved on, and the town’s population dwindled once again.
In 1930, a fire destroyed Ancho’s original one-room schoolhouse. Undeterred, the community rallied together to construct a new brick school, a testament to their commitment to education. At its peak, the school boasted five teachers and 140 students, serving as a vital center of learning for the surrounding area. In addition to the school, Ancho also supported two stores, providing essential goods and services to its residents. However, despite these signs of vitality, Ancho’s trajectory was undeniably downward. In 1937, the long-defunct brick plant was sold to the Abilene Salvage Company, which dismantled the facility, removing another piece of Ancho’s industrial past.
The year 1954 marked a decisive turning point in Ancho’s fate. The paving of the new U.S. Highway 54 between Carrizozo and Corona effectively bypassed the small community by approximately 2.5 miles. This seemingly minor change had a profound impact, diverting traffic and commerce away from Ancho, isolating it from the flow of progress. The following year, the school, once a symbol of hope and opportunity, was closed, further eroding the town’s sense of community.
The final nail in Ancho’s coffin came in 1959 when the railroad discontinued service to the depot. The building, once a vital link to the outside world, was sold and repurposed. In 1963, it was transformed into a museum called "My House of Old Things," a nostalgic attempt to preserve the town’s fading history. That same year, the town’s combination store and gas station, another essential establishment, closed its doors. Five years later, the post office, a symbol of official recognition and communication, also ceased operations, leaving Ancho, New Mexico, with only a handful of remaining residents.
Today, Ancho, New Mexico presents a haunting tableau of abandonment. The once-thriving community appears to have been entirely deserted. A small sign on the side of the school indicates that it may still be used as a church. The school building itself is well-maintained, with replacement windows, suggesting ongoing use and care. However, scattered throughout the landscape are abandoned buildings, standing in various states of disrepair. The depot, a silent witness to Ancho’s rise and fall, remains, as do several dilapidated homes, their empty windows staring out at a landscape that is slowly reclaiming its own. A cemetery, located approximately half a mile northeast of town, serves as a poignant reminder of the generations who lived, worked, and died in Ancho.
Despite its desolate appearance, Ancho retains a certain allure, a sense of history etched into its weathered buildings and windswept landscapes. Located 21 miles north of Carrizozo on U.S. 54, then east on NM 482 for 2.5 miles, it is accessible to those who seek it out. A forest road extends southeast of Ancho, leading to the ghost towns of Jicarilla and White Oaks before rejoining U.S. 54, offering a glimpse into the region’s rich and complex past.
Ancho, New Mexico, is more than just a ghost town; it is a testament to the cyclical nature of life, the rise and fall of communities, and the enduring power of nature. While its bustling days are long gone, its story continues to resonate, a reminder of the dreams, struggles, and ultimately, the impermanence of human endeavors. Its quiet streets and abandoned buildings offer a unique opportunity to reflect on the past and appreciate the resilience of the natural world, slowly but surely returning to reclaim its own.