Ancient History South of Albuquerque, New Mexico
Embarking on a journey south from Albuquerque, New Mexico, along the pre-1937 alignment of the legendary Route 66, unveils a tapestry of history woven through ancient pueblos, resilient communities, and captivating landscapes. This route, a tangible link to the past, offers a glimpse into the lives of those who shaped this region, from the indigenous Tiwa people to the Spanish explorers and the early travelers who traversed the Mother Road. The first stop along this historical path is the Isleta Pueblo, followed by the historically diverse city of Los Lunas.
Isleta Pueblo: A Living Legacy of the Tiwa Tribe
Approximately 13 miles south of Albuquerque lies the Isleta Pueblo, a testament to the enduring spirit of the Tiwa people. Established around 1200 A.D., this pueblo stands as one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in the United States. The Tiwa, believed to be descendants of the ancient Shoshonean peoples who migrated to the Americas millennia ago, have maintained their cultural traditions and way of life for centuries. The name "Isleta," meaning "little island" in Spanish, was bestowed upon the pueblo by Spanish conquistadors, referring to its location on a narrow strip of land bordering the Rio Grande.
The history of Isleta Pueblo is intertwined with both resilience and adaptation. In the 17th century, the pueblo became a haven for refugees fleeing Apache raids on outlying settlements. Around 1629 or 1630, the Spanish Franciscan friar Juan de Salas established the Mission of San Agustín de la Isleta, marking a period of cultural exchange and religious influence. The imposing church, a symbol of faith and community, played a central role in the lives of the Isleta people.
The ancient history south of Albuquerque, New Mexico is also marked by the turbulent events of the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. At the time, Isleta Pueblo was home to approximately 2,000 people, including a significant Spanish population. Although Isleta was spared the initial massacres that occurred in other pueblos due to its Spanish residents, the revolt had a profound impact on the community. Many native residents fled, seeking refuge in Hopi settlements in present-day Arizona or accompanying the Spanish to El Paso del Norte (present-day El Paso, Texas).
Following the rebellion, the Isleta people gradually returned to their ancestral lands. Many had intermarried with Hopi individuals during their time away. Despite initially submitting to Spanish authority, the Isleta people secretly maintained their allegiance to other Pueblo communities. This act of defiance led to the pueblo’s destruction by Governor Otermin, who forced the remaining inhabitants to relocate to El Paso.
In 1692, Diego De Vargas, the Spanish Governor, led a re-conquest of the area, discovering the Isleta church in ruins and the pueblo abandoned. Around 1710, the original Tiwa inhabitants returned, and in 1716, they rebuilt the church, rededicating it to St. Augustine. The St. Augustine Mission stands proudly today, one of the oldest continuously functioning churches in the United States, a testament to the enduring faith and determination of the Isleta people.
During the 18th and 19th centuries, Isleta Pueblo flourished, becoming one of the largest and most prosperous pueblos in New Mexico. The community was renowned for its agricultural productivity, with abundant crops and orchards. The traditional adobe buildings clustered around the central plaza formed the heart of the pueblo, surrounded by cultivated lands that sustained the community.
Later in the 1800s, internal friction arose within the Isleta community due to the integration of members from the Laguna and Acoma Pueblos. This led to the establishment of the satellite settlement of Oraibi. Today, Isleta Pueblo encompasses the main pueblo as well as the smaller communities of Oraibi and Chicale.
A notable figure in the history of Isleta Pueblo is Father Anton Docher, a French Franciscan priest known as "The Padre of Isleta." Arriving in 1891, Father Docher dedicated 34 years of his life to serving the Isleta community, becoming a strong advocate for the rights and well-being of the indigenous people. He is buried near the church’s altar, a symbol of his deep connection to the pueblo.
Today, Isleta Pueblo is home to approximately 4,000 people who continue to preserve their ancient traditions, songs, and dances, passing them down through generations. While honoring their cultural heritage, the Isleta people have also embraced modern economic opportunities, operating successful business ventures such as the Isleta Casino & Resort. The pueblo is located adjacent to the village of Bosque Farms, a predominantly agricultural community that has evolved into a suburb of Albuquerque.
Los Lunas: A Crossroads of Cultures and Eras
Continuing south for another nine miles, the traveler arrives in Los Lunas, New Mexico, a city steeped in a rich and diverse history. Sheltered from the rapid urban growth of Albuquerque by the Isleta Indian Pueblo to the north and the Rio Grande to the east, Los Lunas offers a unique blend of small-town charm and easy access to metropolitan amenities. From the prehistoric Ancient Puebloan (Anasazi) Indians to the Spanish explorers and the pioneers of Route 66, Los Lunas bears witness to the ebb and flow of cultures and eras. The ancient history south of Albuquerque, New Mexico is significantly portrayed here.
The area that would become Los Lunas was initially part of the San Clemente Land Grant. In 1716, Don Felix Candelaria received the land as a grant after his mother had petitioned for it. However, the Luna family soon laid claim to the grant and established a small settlement. In 1808, Antonio Jose Luna, who would later become a prominent civic and political leader, was born. Often hailed as the father of Los Lunas, Antonio married Isabella Baca, the daughter of a prominent family from Belen, a community situated ten miles south of Los Lunas. The Luna family’s influence extended for nearly a century, during which they dominated Valencia County and played a pivotal role in moving the county seat from Tomé to Los Lunas in 1876.
The arrival of the Santa Fe Railroad in the 1880s marked a significant turning point in the development of Los Lunas. The establishment of a depot facilitated the transportation of livestock, hay, merchandise, and passengers to and from the burgeoning city. Further transportation infrastructure came with the construction of the first alignment of Route 66 through Los Lunas in 1925. This iconic highway brought increased traffic and spurred the growth of various businesses and services along its path.
Today, Los Lunas offers numerous opportunities to delve into the past, from the vestiges of vintage Route 66 to the remnants of prehistoric Puebloan settlements and the legacy of Spanish exploration.
The Luna-Otero Mansion, dating back to 1881, is a prominent landmark in Los Lunas. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the mansion is rumored to be haunted by the spirit of Josefita Otero. In the downtown area, visitors can explore a variety of historic structures and Route 66-era buildings, including the town offices housed in restored Route 66 cabins, Teofilo’s Restaurant, which dates back to 1912, the White Café, the Huning Mercantile established in 1860, the San Antonio Mission built in 1790, and Sam’s Tires, a 1928 Route 66 gas station.
A Detour to Tomé Hill: Echoes of the Past
While not directly on Route 66, a short side trip south on US-85/NM-314 to Tomé Hill is a worthwhile excursion. Dominating the landscape between Los Lunas and Belén, this landmark along El Camino Real (the Royal Road) has served as a religious site, a refuge from hostile enemies and floods, and an observation point since prehistoric times. The ancient history south of Albuquerque, New Mexico is etched into the rocks of Tome Hill. Over 1,800 petroglyphs have been recorded on the hill, some dating back over 2,000 years.
At the foot of the hill stands a large steel sculpture called La Puerta del Sol (Gateway to the Sun), designed to reflect the region’s diverse cultures. The sculpture marks the entrance to a 10-acre park featuring pathways, picnic tables, and interpretive panels that tell the story of Cerro del Tomé and the people of Tomé. Visitors can embark on a self-guided tour to explore the ancient petroglyphs, sculptures, and the history of El Camino Real.
Nearby, the Tomé Immaculate Conception Church houses an extensive museum with historical exhibits and hand-carved wood saints. Tomé is the oldest Hispanic settlement in Valencia County, established in 1739. Four miles south of Tomé lies the old city of Belén, where the Harvey House Museum occupies one of the original railroad depots. In 1910, the depot housed one of the renowned Harvey House restaurants.
Returning to Los Lunas and heading west on New Mexico Highway 6, travelers can continue their journey along the Mother Road. This scenic stretch, passing through the Rio Puerco Valley with its striking rock mesas, is considered one of the most beautiful sections of Route 66.
The journey through the ancient history south of Albuquerque, New Mexico is a memorable experience.