Chaco Canyon, New Mexico – Home of Ancestral Puebloans
Nestled in the heart of the arid and remote San Juan Basin of northwestern New Mexico lies a place of profound historical and cultural significance: Chaco Culture National Historical Park. This remarkable destination preserves one of America’s most important archaeological landscapes, a testament to the ingenuity and complex societal organization of the Ancestral Puebloans. Here, amidst the rugged terrain and vast, open skies, the ruins of Chaco Canyon stand as silent witnesses to a civilization that flourished centuries ago, leaving behind a legacy that continues to intrigue and inspire.
The park’s allure stems from its distinctive architecture, the sheer number of preserved ruins, and the remnants of an intricate network of ancient roads that once connected the central canyon to outlying communities. Isolated and relatively inaccessible, the park is situated in a valley carved by the Chaco Wash, a seasonal waterway that provides a life-giving source of water in an otherwise parched environment. To truly appreciate the scale and complexity of this ancient urban center, one must venture into the heart of Chaco Canyon and immerse themselves in its rich history.
From approximately 850 to 1250 A.D., Chaco Canyon served as a major center of Ancestral Puebloan culture. By the year 1000, the Chaco culture had firmly established itself as a spiritual, political, and economic hub, exerting its influence over the Four Corners region. At its peak, the canyon is estimated to have been home to as many as 5,000 people, spread across approximately 75 settlements. This concentration of population and resources allowed for the development of sophisticated architectural techniques, complex social structures, and a deep understanding of the surrounding environment.
The Ancestral Puebloans of Chaco Canyon were master builders, constructing impressive public and ceremonial buildings, along with an extensive infrastructure of roads, ramps, dams, and mounds. These feats of engineering required a high degree of organization, skillful planning, and efficient resource management. The distinctive architecture of Chaco is characterized by a unique blend of designs, incorporating astronomical alignments, geometric principles, careful landscaping, and advanced engineering techniques. The result is an ancient urban center that continues to amaze archaeologists and visitors alike, a testament to the enduring legacy of the Ancestral Puebloans.
Archaeological evidence suggests that the Ancestral Puebloans had been inhabiting the region as early as 1200 B.C. Initially, they lived as nomadic hunters and gatherers, relying on simple tools such as wooden clubs, hunting sticks, and spears to sustain themselves. Over time, they transitioned to a more settled lifestyle, constructing permanent homes in caves and pit houses. During this period, they developed remarkable skills in basket making, creating woven containers that were covered with mud and baked to make them waterproof. Archaeologists refer to these early inhabitants as the "Basket Makers," recognizing their mastery of this essential craft.
Around 700 A.D., a significant transformation began to take place as the Ancestral Puebloans started cultivating crops such as corn and squash. This agricultural revolution allowed them to establish more permanent dwellings, marking the beginning of the great pueblos of the Southwest. These early structures were typically small, one-story masonry buildings, constructed with locally sourced materials. Over time, these simple dwellings evolved into larger, more complex complexes, reflecting the growing population and increasing sophistication of the Chacoan society.
Two centuries later, as the population continued to grow, the communities expanded into larger, more closely compacted pueblos. It was around this time that the Pueblo Bonito complex began to take shape, starting with a curved row of rooms near the north wall. The Chacoans continuously refined their building techniques, utilizing thick masonry walls and generous amounts of mud mortar to construct structures that rose to heights of more than four stories. These impressive buildings served as both residential spaces and centers for community activities, reflecting the integrated nature of Chacoan society.
During this period of intense construction, the Chacoans quarried sandstone blocks and hauled timber from great distances, assembling 15 significant complexes that remained the largest buildings in North America until the 19th century. The scale and complexity of these structures are a testament to the organizational abilities and engineering prowess of the Ancestral Puebloans. Many of these buildings are believed to have been aligned to capture the solar and lunar cycles, suggesting a deep understanding of astronomy and its importance in their cultural and religious practices. This alignment would have required generations of astronomical observations and centuries of skillfully coordinated construction, highlighting the long-term planning and dedication of the Chacoan people.
Other notable pueblos, including Chetro Ketl, Una Vida, Peñasco Blanco, Hungo Pavi, and Kin Bineola, were also started around this time. Some of these large buildings show signs of having been planned from the start, in contrast to the usual Ancient Puebloan custom of adding rooms as needed. Over the next two centuries, more and more of these large pueblos with oversized rooms began to be built throughout the region. Eventually, an estimated 75 villages in the area were tied together by an extensive system of roads, facilitating trade, communication, and the movement of people and resources.
However, the golden age of Chaco Canyon was not destined to last forever. From the 12th to the 13th centuries, many pueblos in the canyon were abandoned as a prolonged drought cycle began in the San Juan Basin, starting around 1130. The Ancestral Puebloans were at the height of their civilization when the lack of rainfall led to food shortages. Even though they had designed an extensive system of dams and irrigation methods, the dry climate and overtaxed fields could no longer support the immense population. As famine spread throughout the area, the people began to leave, joining other pueblos near the Little Colorado River and the Rio Grande.
While drought undoubtedly played a significant role in the abandonment of Chaco Canyon, some archaeologists now believe that other factors may have also contributed to the decline. These factors include religious upheaval, internal political conflicts, and warfare. By the 1300s, all of the villages and pueblos of Chaco Canyon were abandoned. As the ancient Indians left, their kivas were ceremonially burned, and most of their possessions were left behind, as if to mark the end of an era.
Today, the descendants of the Ancestral Puebloans are members of 20 Indian tribes in New Mexico and Arizona, and many maintain their connections with Chaco today. These tribes include modern-day Pueblo Indians of New Mexico, the Hopi of Arizona, and the Navajo. These tribes continue to honor and respect the ancestral homelands of their ancestors, recognizing the cultural and spiritual significance of Chaco Canyon.
By the 1600s, the Navajo people primarily occupied the canyon. In 1680, the Pueblo Revolt against the Spanish briefly unified the Pueblo peoples of New Mexico and their neighbors. However, the Spanish returned in 1692 and re-conquered the area, which forced many of the Pueblo peoples into exile. Many of these people sought refuge with the Navajo people in Chaco Canyon and the surrounding area. These people intermarried and exchanged ideas, further enriching the cultural landscape of the region.
In 1774, Don Bernardo de Miera y Pacheco identified the Chaco Canyon area as "Chaca" on a Spanish map. In 1823, Jose Antonio Viscarra, the Spanish Governor of New Mexico, led a military force west of Jemez Pueblo onto Navajo lands. He noted many Chacoan buildings along the route, providing further evidence of the widespread nature of the Chacoan culture.
Colonel John M. Washington led the first American expedition into the area in 1849. During the trip, Lieutenant James Simpson of the Army Corps of Topographical Engineers surveyed Navajo lands and wrote reports of the Chacoan sites. At the same time, the Kern brothers drew illustrations of the buildings, capturing the visual splendor of the ancient ruins. In 1877, artist and photographer William Henry Jackson, with the US Geological and Geographical Survey, produced expanded descriptions and maps of Chacoan sites and identified additional structures, including a stairway in the cliffs.
More expeditions and archaeologists followed in the next decades, leading to a greater understanding of the history and culture of the Ancestral Puebloans. Theodore Roosevelt established Chaco Canyon National Monument on March 11, 1907, recognizing the importance of preserving this unique archaeological site. In 1949, the University of New Mexico deeded lands in Chaco Canyon National Monument to the National Park Service for continued rights to conduct scientific research in the area. By 1959, the National Park Service had constructed the park visitor center, staff housing, and campgrounds, making the site more accessible to the public. In the 1970s, several research projects, archaeological surveys, and limited excavations began, which provided extensive information about the ancient Ancestral Puebloans.
Today, archaeological excavations in Chaco Canyon are limited, as modern methods such as remote sensing now allow archaeologists to gather a great deal of information without disturbing the fragile and irreplaceable sites. This non-invasive approach ensures that the ruins are preserved for future generations.
In December 1980, an additional 13,000 acres were added to the park. The Park Service developed the multi-agency Chaco Culture Archaeological Protection Site program to protect Chacoan sites on adjacent Bureau of Land Management and Navajo Nation lands. The sites are part of the sacred homeland of the Pueblo Indian peoples of New Mexico, the Hopi Indians of Arizona, and the Navajo Indians of the Southwest, all of whom continue to respect and honor them.
The Ancestral Puebloans built numerous great houses, kivas, and pueblos throughout a nine-mile stretch of the canyon floor, perched on mesa tops and situated in nearby drainage areas. A nine-mile paved loop accesses five major Chacoan sites from the Visitor’s Center, where self-guiding trails are available. Trail guides are also available in the sites’ parking lots or the bookstore. Each site usually takes 45 minutes to one hour to complete.
Four backcountry hiking trails are also available to access more remote sites and features. Free permits can be obtained at the visitor center. The nine-mile loop and the Wijiji, Casa Chiquita, and Kin Klizhin trails may also be biked. Inquire at the visitor center for free permits and directions.
Because of the aridity and remoteness of the San Juan Basin, Chaco’s record of evolving complexity is almost unrivaled in its preservation. It continues to testify to the organizational and engineering abilities not seen anywhere else in the American Southwest.
Today, Chaco Canyon is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and some locations are off-limits to the public due to erosion and because the Hopi and Pueblo people consider them sacred ancestral homelands.
The National Historical Park also offers guided tours, hiking and biking trails, camping, and night sky programs. It is situated on the Trails of the Ancients Byway, one of the designated New Mexico Scenic Byways.