Elk Falls, Kansas – The Outhouse Capitol
Nestled within the rolling hills of the Kansas Ozarks lies a town unlike any other: Elk Falls, Kansas. This unassuming locale proudly proclaims itself both the "World’s Largest Living Ghost Town" and the "Outhouse Capital of the World," a testament to its unique character and resilience in the face of changing times. While a mere shadow of its former self, Elk Falls, Kansas, boasts a rich history and a quirky charm that draws visitors seeking an escape from the ordinary. Once a bustling settlement in the mid-19th century, it now offers a glimpse into a bygone era, complete with eccentric attractions and a tranquil atmosphere.
Early Days and Establishment
The story of Elk Falls, Kansas, begins in February 1870, when R.H. Nichols became the first settler to establish himself on the townsite. Recognizing the potential of the area, Nichols and six other enterprising businessmen formed a townsite company, laying out lots and developing plans for a new settlement. The initial infrastructure quickly took shape: Nichols built a house that also served as a loan and real estate office, a general store opened its doors, a drug store and blacksmith shop began operations, and a post office was established. Education was also a priority, with Miss Dora Simmons teaching 25 pupils at her father’s residence.
By 1871, the settlement had officially been named Elk Falls, a name inspired by a picturesque waterfall on the Elk River. That same year, a modest one-story frame house was erected to serve as both a school building and a place of worship for the Methodist Episcopal Church. Elk Falls, Kansas, quickly gained prominence and was even designated the temporary county seat of Howard County.
A Contentious County Seat
The early years of Elk Falls, Kansas, were not without their challenges. The selection of a permanent county seat proved to be a contentious issue, with Elk Falls, Peru, Boston, Longton, and Howard all vying for the coveted designation. Elections in 1872 and 1873 failed to produce a clear winner, leading to escalating tensions and even acts of defiance. In a dramatic turn of events, citizens of Boston raided Elk Falls, seizing county records and furnishings after a disputed election in 1873. The records were then hidden in Cowley County, and armed guards were stationed in Boston to prevent the Howard County sheriff from reclaiming them.
The situation reached a boiling point, but the bitterness was eventually resolved when Elk County was divided into Elk and Chautauqua Counties in 1875. Elk Falls fell within Elk County, but the town of Howard, due to its central location, was chosen as the county seat.
Economic Development and Growth
Despite the county seat dispute, Elk Falls continued to develop and grow. In 1875, E.A. Hall and L.J. Johnston constructed a grist and flour mill on the Elk River near the falls. The mill, powered by a turbine water wheel, was a significant investment, costing $1,600 to build. It processed wheat from local farmers and those who shipped it in, providing flour throughout the state.
The availability of a reliable water supply was crucial for the mill’s operation and the town’s overall prosperity. Several dams were built along the Elk River using logs, lumber, and timbers to mitigate the effects of severe droughts that frequently plagued the area. However, these early dams were repeatedly destroyed by floods. Eventually, a Swedish immigrant named Jo Johansen took over the mill and built a dam of sandstone rocks cemented together. This sturdy dam proved resilient, withstanding the floods for over a century and solidifying its legacy in Elk Falls, Kansas.
The town’s religious and social fabric also strengthened during this period. In 1879, a Baptist Church was built, followed by a Methodist Episcopal Church in 1880. By 1880, Elk Falls’ population peaked at 513 residents.
A Flourishing Community
By 1883, Elk Falls, Kansas, had become a thriving community, attracting new residents and experiencing significant improvements. The population had grown to over five hundred, with a large proportion of children attending the local school, which boasted over 200 students. The town’s prosperity was evident in its bustling commercial district, which included two stores, two barbershops, a doctor’s office, a dentist, a drug store, and a feed store.
The Pratt Truss Bridge
A significant infrastructure project that further connected Elk Falls, Kansas, to the surrounding area was the construction of an iron truss bridge over the Elk River. On November 15, 1892, the Elk County Commissioners approved the project, which aimed to connect the dirt roads leading into Elk Falls from the northeast to the main thoroughfare. Completed in 1893 at a cost of $2,000, the Pratt Truss Bridge was unique for its type due to its expansion joints, which were made from rollers rather than wheels. The bridge stands as a testament to the engineering ingenuity of the late 19th century and is a treasured landmark in Elk Falls, Kansas. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Decline and Reinvention
Despite its early success, Elk Falls, Kansas, began to experience a decline in population and economic activity in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Sometime in the late nineteenth century, the grist mill was closed, and the building was moved to the south side of the river and repurposed for hay storage. By 1927, the town’s population had dwindled to just 269 residents.
The construction of Kansas Highway 160 through Elk Falls in 1957 further impacted the town, as traffic on the old steel bridge decreased significantly. In 1976, a major flood on the Elk River damaged the bridge, washing away many of the wooden planks that made up its floor. The Elk County Commissioners deemed the bridge irreparable and voted to condemn and close it. However, plans to destroy the bridge were fortunately delayed, and in 1983, it was preserved as a footbridge. In 1992, the Kansas State Historical Society designated the bridge a historic site, and in 1994, it was added to the National Register of Historic Sites.
A "Living Ghost Town"
Today, Elk Falls, Kansas, embraces its identity as a "living ghost town." While acknowledging its past, the town emphasizes that it is "not dead yet!" Unlike typical tourist destinations, Elk Falls offers visitors a chance to slow down, experience the tranquility of the Falls, relax, and immerse themselves in a bit of history without the frenetic pace of a city.
Several years ago, a resident of Elk Falls came up with the idea of attracting tourists by branding the town as the "World’s Largest Living Ghost Town." While the idea initially met with mixed reactions, it eventually gained traction. Artists and craftsmen began to flock to the town, and within a few years, Elk Falls was drawing thousands of visitors annually.
Although many artists and performers have since moved on, and Elk Falls is once again living up to its "ghost town" moniker, its falls continue to flow. An old attraction known as the Rock Garden, built in the 1930s, has been restored and is now home to Elk Falls Pottery, a thriving establishment that has been in operation for three decades.
The Outhouse Tour
The highlight of the year in Elk Falls, Kansas, is the annual Outhouse Tour, held on the Friday and Saturday before Thanksgiving. This quirky and unique event draws visitors from far and wide, showcasing creative and imaginative outhouses. In addition to the outhouses, the tour features live music, handcrafts, food, and other attractions, creating a festive and memorable experience for all who attend.
The Elk Falls themselves can be viewed at the east end of Montgomery Street, about three blocks east of the main street.
Elk Falls Today
Today, Elk Falls, Kansas, is home to approximately 100 residents. The town is located about 35 miles northwest of Independence, Kansas, on U.S. 160. Despite its small size, Elk Falls offers a unique and compelling experience for visitors seeking a glimpse into the past and a taste of small-town charm.