Fort Griffin, Texas – Lawlessness on the Brazos
Fort Griffin, Texas, a name synonymous with both military protection and untamed frontier life, stands as a testament to a pivotal era in American history. Established in 1867 by the U.S. Cavalry, its primary mission was to safeguard the burgeoning settlements of northwestern Shackelford County from the persistent threats of Comanche and Kiowa raids. This outpost, born from necessity amidst the expansionist fervor of the post-Civil War era, quickly evolved into a multifaceted hub, attracting not only pioneers seeking new opportunities but also a vibrant, and often volatile, mix of individuals who would shape its legendary, albeit notorious, reputation.
While the ravages of time have taken their toll, leaving behind fragmented remnants of the original fort and the settlement that once thrived in its shadow, Fort Griffin’s legacy endures. It remains etched in the annals of the Old West as one of its most unrestrained and captivating locales. The very landscape upon which it was built, the rolling hills nestled between the West Fork of the Trinity River and the Clear Fork of the Brazos River, played a crucial role in its development. This geographical position placed it squarely in the path of westward expansion, a collision course between settlers and the Plains Indians, who for generations had considered this territory their exclusive hunting ground.
Prior to the establishment of Fort Griffin, several other military outposts, including Forts Belknap, Phantom Hill, and Camp Cooper, had been constructed in the 1840s. However, these proved insufficient to adequately shield the growing influx of settlers. The outbreak of the Civil War further compounded the problem, effectively halting any additional fort construction until the conflict’s conclusion. Following the war, the U.S. government renewed its commitment to securing the frontier, initiating the construction of new forts, including Fort Griffin and Fort Richardson.
The genesis of Fort Griffin can be traced back to July 31, 1867, when Lieutenant Colonel Samuel arrived with four companies of the Sixth Cavalry. Initially designated as Camp Wilson, the outpost was strategically positioned atop a hill overlooking the Clear Fork of the Brazos River. The name was later changed to Fort Griffin in honor of the late Major General Charles Griffin, Commander of the Texas Army Department, who had originally conceived the plans for the new fortification.
Upon its completion, Fort Griffin was designed to accommodate up to six companies of soldiers, providing a comprehensive infrastructure that included an administration building, a hospital, officers’ quarters housed in eleven separate buildings, numerous barracks, a guardhouse, a bakery, a powder magazine, five storehouses, forage houses, four stables, a laundry, and a workshop. This well-equipped military installation served as a tangible symbol of the government’s commitment to maintaining order and protecting its citizens in the face of persistent threats.
Almost immediately after the fort’s completion, a civilian settlement began to take shape at the base of the hill. This nascent community, initially referred to by various names such as "The Bottom," "The Flat," or "Hidetown," eventually adopted the name of the fort itself. The allure of opportunity drew a diverse population to Fort Griffin, encompassing honest pioneers seeking land for ranching, agriculture, and commerce. However, alongside these legitimate settlers, a significant number of ruffians and outlaws flocked to the area, contributing to the town’s burgeoning reputation for lawlessness.
As the population continued to swell, the frequency of Indian attacks across northern Texas escalated, placing considerable strain on the soldiers stationed at Fort Griffin. These conflicts, collectively known as the Red River Campaign, raged until 1874, when the Texas Army achieved a decisive victory over the Kiowa and Comanche at Palo Duro Canyon. This military triumph marked a turning point in the region’s history, significantly reducing the threat of Indian raids and paving the way for further settlement.
Meanwhile, the settlement below Fort Griffin was experiencing a period of unprecedented growth and activity. Buffalo hunters, businessmen, cowboys, outlaws, gamblers, gunfighters, and prostitutes converged on the town, creating a vibrant but volatile social environment. This heady mix of personalities and professions contributed to Fort Griffin’s reputation as a haven for those operating outside the boundaries of the law.
Many individuals who passed through Fort Griffin would later achieve notoriety in the annals of Western history. Among them were Doc Holliday and Wyatt Earp, whose paths first crossed within the town’s bustling confines. Other notable figures associated with Fort Griffin included Big Nose Kate, a renowned lady gambler; Lottie Deno, another prominent gambling figure; lawman Pat Garrett; and gunfighter John Wesley Hardin.
Maintaining order in this lawless environment proved to be a daunting task. Outlaw-turned-lawman John M. Larn served as sheriff, and his deputy, John Selman, were tasked with policing the town. However, in the mid-1870s, they were accused of working both sides of the law, allegedly controlling a local vigilante group known as the Tin Hat Brigade and engaging in cattle rustling. John Larn’s life was tragically cut short when he was killed by the same vigilantes within the confines of his own jail in Fort Griffin. Selman, on the other hand, disappeared shortly after and, nearly two decades later, would kill John Wesley Hardin. During these turbulent times, the settlement’s decadence and lawlessness earned it the moniker "Babylon on the Brazos."
In 1874, the situation in Fort Griffin deteriorated to such an extent that the fort commander placed the town under martial law, forcing many undesirable residents to leave. The town remained under military control until Shackelford County was officially formed later that year. Initially, both the fort and the town were part of Jack County. However, as Fort Griffin gained notoriety for its bawdy reputation, law-abiding citizens in the surrounding area sought to establish a new county. In early 1874, they petitioned the Jack County Court for permission to form their own county. Their request was granted in September, and the new county was named Shackelford in honor of Dr. Jack Shackelford, a Texas revolutionary hero. Fort Griffin was designated as the temporary county seat on October 12, 1874.
However, the law-abiding citizens of Shackelford County were not content with having Fort Griffin, with its unsavory reputation, as their county seat. They quickly organized and proposed the establishment of a new town in the center of the county to serve as the permanent seat of government. On November 8, 1874, area residents voted to establish the new town of Albany, which would eventually replace Fort Griffin as the county seat.
Despite the loss of its county seat status, Fort Griffin continued to thrive, serving as a vital supply source for buffalo hunters from 1874 through 1877 and a stopover for the many cowboys herding cattle up the Western Trail to the Dodge City, Kansas, railheads. Businesses of all kinds sprang up to cater to the growing population’s needs, including numerous stores, saloons, and restaurants. A newspaper called the Fort Griffin Echo was published from 1879 to 1882, and the town even boasted an academy for several years. At its peak, Fort Griffin had a permanent population of approximately 1,000 residents and an estimated transient population of nearly twice that number.
However, by the late 1870s, the buffalo population on the plains began to dwindle, leading to a decline in the number of buffalo hunters who called Fort Griffin home. As the town’s economy began to suffer, businesses started to close and relocate to the new town of Albany.
In 1881, two pivotal events signaled the final demise of the town of Fort Griffin. By this time, the Indians of the area had been pushed westward or confined to reservations, rendering the fort’s soldiers largely unnecessary. After 14 years of guarding the area population, the U.S. flag at the fort was lowered for the last time on May 31.
That same year, the Texas Central Railroad was extending its reach through the region, and Fort Griffin desperately sought to entice the railroad to pass through their town. However, the citizens of nearby Albany raised $50,000 to lure the railroad through their town, effectively sealing Fort Griffin’s fate.
The small town lingered for several years, gradually diminishing in size. By the 1940s, the school was consolidated with Albany’s, and shortly thereafter, the post office closed.
Today, only a handful of original buildings remain at the townsite, but several "new" ones have been reconstructed over original foundations. What remains of this once-thriving town is situated on the Collins Creek Ranch, a wildlife habitat, working ranch, and commercial hunting property. Although privately owned, the owners allow visitors to view what remains of this once-lawless place.
The fort itself was preserved for years as the Fort Griffin State Historical Park; however, on January 1, 2008, the site was transferred to the Texas Historical Commission. The 506-acre park features the partially restored ruins of old Fort Griffin on the bluff overlooking the old townsite and the Clear Fork of the Brazos River Valley. Several buildings remain, including the mess hall, barracks, administration building, powder magazine, and the restored bakery. Other remnants include a hand-dug well, cistern, numerous foundations, and a rock chimney. The small soldiers’ barracks have been recreated. A portion of the official Texas Longhorn herd resides in the park, which also provides camping, hiking, fishing, and picnicking.
With the Texas Historical Commission now managing the site, changes are being implemented, including clearing mesquite trees and cactus from the fort to align with historical accuracy, as this vegetation arrived with the longhorns. The Visitor’s Center will be expanded, and there are hopes for future archaeological digs.
The site is open daily year-round. Fort Griffin is located on the Texas Forts Trail on U. S. Highway 283, about 15 miles northeast of Albany, Texas.