Fremont’s Expeditions of the American West
By Frank W. Blackmar, 1912
The 19th century witnessed a surge of exploration and expansion across the American West, driven by dreams of Manifest Destiny, economic opportunity, and scientific curiosity. Among the prominent figures who shaped our understanding of this vast and largely uncharted territory was John Charles Frémont, a military officer, explorer, and politician whose expeditions played a crucial role in mapping and documenting the landscapes, resources, and native populations of the region. These journeys, undertaken under the auspices of the U.S. government, provided invaluable information that fueled westward migration and ultimately contributed to the shaping of the modern American West.
The significance of John Charles Frémont’s explorations, authorized by an act of Congress, lies in their contribution to providing the American public with an accurate portrayal of the lands west of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers. Prior to his expeditions, much of this territory remained shrouded in mystery, known primarily through the accounts of fur traders and indigenous peoples. Frémont’s detailed reports, maps, and scientific observations brought the reality of the West into sharper focus, inspiring settlers, entrepreneurs, and policymakers alike.
The First Expedition: Charting the Path to the Wind River Mountains (1842)
Frémont’s initial foray into the West commenced in 1842. With a modest team of just 21 men, he embarked from St. Louis, Missouri, a bustling hub of westward expansion. The composition of his party reflected the diverse skills and experiences necessary for survival and success on the frontier. The backbone of the group consisted of Creole and Canadian voyageurs, seasoned veterans of the fur trade familiar with the rhythms of prairie life and adept at navigating the wilderness. The team also included Charles Preuss, a German native, serving as Frémont’s topographical assistant, responsible for meticulous surveying and mapping. Lucien B. Maxwell, hailing from Kaskaskia, Illinois, was engaged as the expedition’s hunter, tasked with providing sustenance for the men. Perhaps the most crucial member of the team was Christopher "Kit" Carson, a legendary frontiersman and guide whose intimate knowledge of the terrain and native cultures proved invaluable.
Departing St. Louis, the expedition made its way to Cyprian Chouteau’s trading post on the Kansas River, situated approximately ten miles west of the Missouri state line. On June 10, 1842, the true journey began. After traveling approximately ten miles, they intersected with the Santa Fe Trail, a well-worn path used by traders and travelers for decades.
Their travels led them through what is now Kansas. The party camped near the future site of Lawrence on June 12th. Fremont noted in his journals, “We encamped in a remarkably beautiful situation on the Kansas bluffs, which commanded a fine view of the river valley, here from 3 to 4 miles wide. The central portion was occupied by a broad belt of heavy timber, and nearer the hills, the prairies were of the richest verdure.”
On June 14th, the group crossed to the north side of the Kansas River, near present-day Topeka. Two days later, Fremont wrote, "We are now fairly in the Indian country, and it began to be time to prepare for the chances of the wilderness."
The expedition continued along the Kansas Valley foothills, crossing the Black Vermillion River on the 20th. Fremont described the crossing as having “a rich bottom of about one mile in breadth, one-third of which is occupied by timber.” They later reached the Big Blue River. Fremont’s men continued their journey and by June 25th, had reached what is now Nuckolls County, Nebraska.
By this time, Fremont wrote, “From the mouth of the Kansas River, according to our reckoning, we had traveled 328 miles, and the geological formation of the country we had passed over consisted of lime and sandstone, covered by the same erratic deposits of sand and gravel which forms the surface rock of the prairies between the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers.”
The expedition then marched up the Platte Valley. Fremont took a few men up the south fork to St. Vrain’s Fort in Colorado, while the main party went up the north fork. They reunited at Fort Laramie in Wyoming.
Despite the presence of hostile Native Americans, Fremont pressed on, eventually reaching the Sweetwater River and navigating through South Pass, Wyoming. The expedition culminated with the ascent of the highest peak in the Wind River Mountains, a symbolic achievement that underscored the determination and resilience of Frémont and his men. The return journey down the Platte River was completed without any significant issues. This first of Fremont’s Expeditions of the American West proved the viability of the team and the importance of his mission.
The Second Expedition: Exploring the Oregon and California Trail (1843)
Encouraged by the success of his first expedition, Frémont embarked on a second, more ambitious undertaking in 1843. This time, his party consisted of 39 men, again a mix of Creole and Canadian French, and Americans.
Aware of the importance of his work, Frémont altered his route this time. He followed the Kansas River to the head of the Arkansas River, hoping to find a pass through the mountains there. This would help identify a new road to Oregon and California with a better climate, and allow for further exploration of the river and surrounding land.
The expedition departed from present-day Kansas City, Kansas, on May 29, 1843. They followed the 1842 route until they reached the ford of the Kansas River near Lawrence. From there, they went along the south side of the river. Progress was slow, as the team had to build many bridges to cross the numerous small streams. On June 4, they crossed Otter Creek, and on June 8, they reached the mouth of Smoky Hill Fork, forming its junction with the Republican and Kansas Rivers. On the 11th, they continued along the Republican Fork, traveling through well-watered and timbered land. Fremont noted that there were few incidents to describe.
On the evening of the 14th, they had traveled 265 miles from the mouth of the Kansas River. On the 16th, Fremont and 15 men proceeded ahead, camping that night on Solomon’s Fork of the Smoky Hill River. On June 19th, they crossed the Pawnee Road to the Arkansas River. On the afternoon of June 30, Fremont found himself overlooking the valley of the south fork of the Platte River.
Upon reaching St. Vrain’s Fort in Colorado, Fremont and his men stayed for a while to explore the area. They traversed Boiling Spring River and visited the pueblo near its mouth. From Fort St. Vrain, the main party marched straight to Fort Laramie, while Fremont’s party went west, skirting the mountains and examining the country. The two groups met on the Sweetwater River.
After marching through South Pass, the expedition continued to Fort Bridger before heading west down the Bear River Valley. The expedition marched to California. While in Colorado on the return trip, Fremont explored the natural parks. The group visited the pueblo and Bent’s Fort on the Arkansas River, arriving there on July 1, 1844.
On July 5th, the expedition continued down the Arkansas River. They soon left to explore the Kansas River, taking a northeasterly direction across the dividing grounds. On the 8th, they arrived at the head of the Smoky Hill Fork of the Kansas River, traveling along its banks for 290 miles. The expedition left the river when it turned northwesterly, and continued east for 20 miles, joining the wagon road from Santa Fe to Independence, Missouri. On the last day of July, Fremont returned to Kansas City after 14 months.
The second of Fremont’s Expeditions of the American West solidified Fremont’s reputation as a capable explorer and deepened the understanding of the lands and potential routes to the Pacific Coast.
The Third Expedition: From Bent’s Fort to Sutter’s Fort (1845)
In 1845, Frémont led a third expedition, this time with a significantly larger force of nearly 100 men. Among them were familiar faces from previous journeys, including Kit Carson, Alexis Godey, Dick Owens, and experienced Delaware Indians. Lieutenants James W. Abert and William G. Peck joined the team.
The plains were crossed without any major issues, except for a scare from the Cheyenne. On August 2, the group reached Bent’s Fort, Colorado. On the 16th, a group of 60 men, chosen for their courage and faithfulness, left Bent’s Fort. On the 20th, they camped at the mouth of Boiling Springs River, and on the 26th, at the mouth of the great canyon of the Arkansas River.
On September 2nd, the group reached the remote headwaters of the Arkansas River. Two days later, Fremont crossed the divide into the Grand River Valley and camped on Piney River. The scientists in the party noted the beauty of the surroundings. They reached the Great Salt Lake in early October, and after great hardship, they reached Sutter’s Fort in California in December. The following year, Fremont helped the Californians gain independence from Mexico. This third of Fremont’s Expeditions of the American West saw Fremont move away from pure exploration and more towards involvement in the politics of the West.
Later Expeditions and Lasting Impact
While the first three expeditions are the most well-known, Frémont undertook two more journeys to the West. In 1848, he financed an expedition to find a passage to California along the headwaters of the Rio Grande, a route later followed by the Southern Pacific Railroad. In 1853, he funded another expedition to determine the best route for a national highway to the Pacific Ocean.
The Fremont’s Expeditions of the American West were not without their hardships, but the geographical and scientific discoveries made during these journeys were invaluable. Frémont’s detailed reports and maps attracted the attention of people in the East, leading to a surge of immigrants into Kansas and other western territories. His work played a significant role in the settlement and development of the American West.
The legacy of John Charles Frémont remains intertwined with the story of the American West. His expeditions, while sometimes controversial, provided crucial knowledge about the region’s geography, resources, and potential for settlement. He helped turn Kansas and the regions to the west from almost unknown lands into areas attracting home-seekers from all over.