Historic Playgrounds on the Meramec River, Missouri
The meandering Meramec River, carving its way through the heart of Missouri, holds more than just scenic beauty. In the late 19th century, this waterway became the backdrop for a series of vibrant summer resorts, havens of recreation and leisure that catered to a diverse clientele, from the wealthy elite of St. Louis to the working class seeking respite from the city’s summer heat. These historic playgrounds on the Meramec River, Missouri, including Meramec Highlands, Valley Park, Fenton, and Castle Park, each possess a unique story, interwoven with the rise of rail travel, the allure of natural beauty, and the ever-shifting tides of social and economic change.
The story of these resorts is inextricably linked to the Frisco Railroad. As the iron horse snaked its way southwest of St. Louis, it opened up the Meramec River valley to a wave of eager visitors. The Frisco Railroad established regular routes to the Meramec Highlands and Valley Park train stations, making the area accessible, at least in theory, to the residents of St. Louis. However, the cost of the train fare presented a significant barrier for many working-class families, initially restricting access to these idyllic retreats to the wealthier echelons of society.
The Meramec Highlands "Frisco" Railroad Station, a testament to Romanesque Revival architecture, stands as a physical reminder of this era. Constructed in 1891 by the Meramec Highlands Company, the station was strategically perched on the bluffs overlooking the river, a mere two miles west of present-day Kirkwood. The developers envisioned a summer paradise for affluent Midwesterners, and the station played a crucial role in realizing this vision. In a mutually beneficial agreement, the Meramec Highlands Company deeded the completed station to the St. Louis and San Francisco Railroad for a nominal fee of $1, securing regularly scheduled train service to the area.
Not far downstream, in Valley Park, the Frisco Hotel emerged in 1893. Initially built to house the track crews diligently laying the railroad westward, the hotel soon found a new purpose. As Valley Park gained popularity among St. Louis’s affluent residents, the Frisco Railroad repurposed the hotel as a layover for its train crews. Valley Park experienced rapid growth, transforming into a bustling hub with restaurants, grocery stores, and other amenities catering to the influx of tourists. By the turn of the century, an astonishing 88 trains made daily stops in Valley Park, a testament to the area’s booming popularity as one of the historic playgrounds on the Meramec River, Missouri.
The year 1894 marked a turning point in the development of the lower Meramec River as a recreational destination with the opening of the Meramec Highlands Inn and recreation complex. This grand establishment offered unparalleled access to the river and boasted an array of amenities designed to cater to every whim of its discerning clientele. The Inn featured its own private depot, a pristine swimming beach, a boathouse stocked with rental boats, and charming rental cottages for extended stays. A Pagoda dance pavilion provided a venue for elegant social gatherings, while tennis courts, stables, croquet courts, and a mineral water bathhouse offered a diverse range of recreational activities.
The Meramec Highlands Inn was a marvel of its time, offering 125 stately rooms equipped with modern conveniences such as "sanitary plumbing" and electric lights. The Inn became the undisputed crown jewel of the Meramec River’s summer resorts. Inside, guests could enjoy a bowling alley, billiards room, chess rooms, a barbershop, a bakery, and a well-stocked wine cellar. Multiple restaurants and banquet rooms catered to various dining preferences, while a stage hosted theatrical performances and other entertainment. Large verandas provided breathtaking views of the Meramec River Valley, inviting guests to relax and soak in the natural beauty of the surroundings. Many affluent St. Louisans found the Inn to be the perfect getaway, commuting to work on the Frisco Railroad while enjoying the resort’s amenities. At its peak, the Inn welcomed 12 trains daily to its private station.
The construction of Meramec Highlands was strategically timed to capitalize on the anticipated surge in tourism expected during the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. Located just an hour’s train ride from downtown St. Louis on the Frisco Railroad, the resort anticipated a significant influx of visitors seeking accommodation and recreation during the fair.
However, the Inn’s initial success was short-lived. In 1896, the introduction of streetcar lines to the resort areas significantly altered the landscape. With one-way fares as low as five cents, the streetcars made the Meramec River accessible to the "common people," transforming the demographics of the resorts. As the working class began to flock to the area, the wealthy clientele, seeking more exclusive and secluded destinations, gradually began to withdraw. The Inn experienced a steady decline in patronage from 1900 to 1903, prompting a concerted effort to boost business during the 1904 World’s Fair through extensive advertising and the distribution of brochures.
During the World’s Fair season, the Highlands Inn saw a temporary resurgence in business, partially fueled by reduced room rates of $1.00 per night. However, this brief surge in popularity proved unsustainable, and the hotel closed its doors the following summer. Despite several attempts to revive the Inn’s operations over the next few decades, none proved successful. In 1925, the hotel and its 15 cottages were sold to private individuals. Tragically, the Highlands Inn was destroyed by fire in 1926. However, 12 of the original 15 cottages still stand in Kirkwood, serving as family homes within what is now the Meramec Highlands Historic District.
Despite the departure of the wealthy elite, the Meramec Highlands continued to attract large crowds, drawn by the affordable transportation options and the allure of the river. The early 20th century saw an influx of visitors arriving via two electric streetcar lines and the Frisco Railroad. On Sundays, the crowds became so overwhelming that the streetcar lines struggled to provide adequate transportation for everyone who wished to board.
The transformation of the Meramec River into a recreational haven for the masses led to the emergence of new establishments catering to a broader clientele. Hotels, lodges, and clubs offering games of chance sprang up along the riverbanks, alongside popular beaches that provided a welcome escape from the heat and humidity of St. Louis summers. By the 1920s, the lower Meramec had become a recreational Mecca for thousands of St. Louis visitors. Canoes filled the river, providing opportunities for leisurely paddling and fishing. Tourists flocked to popular destinations such as Lincoln Beach, near the old Highlands, and other beaches near Valley Park, Castle Park, and Fenton. Open-air dance floors and numerous clubhouses provided venues for socializing and entertainment.
During its peak, Lincoln Beach alone attracted as many as 10,000 visitors on a single weekend. Around the same time, the Frisco Hotel in Valley Park transitioned into a commercial hotel, catering to the growing number of visitors in the area. These factors also contribute to the legend of historic playgrounds on the Meramec River, Missouri.
The Great Depression cast a shadow over the Meramec River’s recreational areas, leading to a period of decline. Abandoned beaches became overgrown, lodges stood empty, and clubhouses fell into disrepair. In 1925, the Frisco station at Meramec Highlands was renamed Osage Hills and discontinued operations in 1932, eventually succumbing to neglect.
The post-World War II era brought about a shift in travel patterns, as automobiles replaced trains and travelers began to explore more distant destinations such as Yellowstone, the Grand Canyon, and the larger dammed lakes of southern Missouri. Attendance at Lincoln Beach and the remaining Meramec River resorts and clubs dwindled rapidly.
Over time, Castlewood transformed into a tranquil area, blending residential neighborhoods with hunting and fishing camps. Some clubhouses were renovated for year-round use, while others were demolished or left to decay.
Today, Castlewood is a state park encompassing 1,779 acres along the banks of the Meramec River. The park preserves the history of the former resort, incorporating elements of the old resort area, including the grand staircase that once led tourists to the hotels and clubs. While the hotels and clubs are long gone, the staircase and the enduring appeal of the region remain, offering visitors a glimpse into the area’s rich history as one of the historic playgrounds on the Meramec River, Missouri.
Valley Park, with its established glass factory and other industries, continued to thrive as a small community outside St. Louis. The historic Frisco Hotel still stands at 28 Front Street, now housing Whittle Shortline Railroad, a family-owned manufacturer of American-style wooden railroad toys. Since 1999, the business has featured a retail store selling handmade trains, allowing railroad enthusiasts to witness the toy assembly process.
Kirkwood has evolved into a suburb of the greater metropolitan area. The site of the former Meramec Highlands river amusements is now Greentree Park. While swimming is no longer permitted in this section of the river due to safety concerns, a boat ramp remains available for anglers and boating enthusiasts. Thirteen of the original cottages still stand in the nearby residential area, along with the original general store, now a private residence. The remaining land has been developed into a new residential area, with the restored 1895 historic Frisco Train Station as its centerpiece.
Numerous parks, hiking trails, and biking trails now line the banks where these historic resorts once stood. Local float liveries offer various options for river enthusiasts, including inner tubes, kayaks, canoes, Jon boats, and river rafts. Riverfront campgrounds and lodges provide accommodations ranging from primitive camping to horseback trail rides and luxury cabins, ensuring that the Meramec River continues to offer a diverse range of recreational opportunities. Even though its use changed through the years, it remains one of the historic playgrounds on the Meramec River, Missouri.
The story of the historic playgrounds on the Meramec River, Missouri, is a testament to the enduring human desire for leisure and recreation. From the opulent resorts catering to the wealthy elite to the bustling beaches that welcomed the working class, the Meramec River has served as a stage for countless memories and experiences. While the landscape has changed dramatically over the years, the allure of the river and its surrounding natural beauty continues to captivate visitors, ensuring that the legacy of these historic playgrounds endures.