History & Haunting of the Navajo County, Arizona Courthouse
The Navajo County Courthouse in Holbrook, Arizona, stands as a stoic sentinel, a monument to the region’s tumultuous past and a repository of local lore. Its history is etched into its Richardsonian Romanesque architecture, its walls echoing with tales of law, order, and perhaps, a few lingering spirits. Before becoming Navajo County, the land was initially incorporated into Yavapai County on November 8, 1864. However, the vastness of Yavapai County necessitated its division, leading to the creation of six separate counties on February 24, 1879, one of which was Apache County.
This newly formed Apache County, encompassing nearly 21,000 square miles, was a largely uncharted and sparsely populated territory. The influx of Texan cattlemen soon ignited conflicts with the native Apache and Navajo tribes, who raided settlements in response to the encroachment on their ancestral lands. Further complicating the situation, Apache County became a battleground for range wars, pitting the newly arrived Texan cattle ranchers against the established Mexican and Indian sheep herders. The struggle for resources and dominance defined this era of the Old West.
On March 21, 1895, a significant shift occurred with the division of Apache County to create Navajo County. The bill, authored by Will C. Barnes, sparked a heated two-month debate within the territorial legislature. Overcoming a filibuster, the bill narrowly passed in the session’s final moments, marking a new chapter in the region’s governance. The newly formed Navajo County selected Holbrook, a town founded in 1881, as its county seat. Initially, the county’s economy thrived on lumbering, farming, railroading, ranching, and trade with the local Native American populations. This was a rugged land, primarily inhabited by hardy, often uncompromising individuals.
Holbrook, at the heart of it all, quickly acquired the characteristics of a typical Wild West town. Saloons, like the infamous "Bucket of Blood," flourished, law and order were scarce, gambling was rampant, and the number of "painted ladies" far exceeded that of "proper women." The need for law enforcement was undeniable. To restore order to the chaotic streets of Holbrook, the town summoned the legendary Sheriff Commodore Perry Owens.
Owens, who had already established a reputation for cleaning up the territory while serving as Sheriff of Apache County, was hailed as "Saint George with a six-shooter." When Navajo County was established, Owens was appointed as its first sheriff. He held the position until 1896 when Frank Wattron was elected to the post.
In 1898, the county erected a new courthouse, a grand structure that would witness numerous significant trials over the years. The basement of the courthouse housed the jail cells. These cells, manufactured as complete units in St. Louis, Missouri, were transported to Holbrook via railroad flatcars. The small, dark cells proved remarkably effective, as no one ever managed to escape their confines.
While the courthouse continued to administer justice for the next seventy-eight years, the most notorious case remained that of George Smiley, the first and only man ever hanged in Navajo County. The story of George Smiley and his execution became an infamous chapter in the history of the Navajo County Courthouse.
In November 1899, the new courthouse jail housed one of its most notable prisoners: George Smiley, a murderer convicted of killing a railroad section foreman named McSweeney. Smiley’s execution was scheduled for December 8, 1899. At the time, Arizona law required the county sheriff to send "invitations" to executions to other Arizona sheriffs and certain territorial officials. However, the legislature did not provide a specific form or guidelines for these invitations.
Encouraged by his friends, Sheriff Frank Wattron decided to issue a "novel" invitation, having it professionally printed on gilt-bordered paper. When a reporter obtained a copy of the invitation, he wired it to the Associated Press. The story of Sheriff Wattron’s peculiar invitation and the impending execution of George Smiley became widely known, further cementing the legend of the Navajo County Courthouse.
The invitation was soon printed in newspapers across the nation and even appeared in international publications like the London Times, the Berlin Tageblatt, and Paris Fiarge. This publicity prompted President McKinley to wire Arizona Governor Nathan Oakes Murphy, who stayed the execution for 30 days and issued a reprimand to Wattron.
Despite the reprimand, Sheriff Wattron remained unrepentant, telling a friend, "Well, I got a hell of a lot of notoriety anyway." Determined to have the last word, he prepared a second printed invitation, this time more "mournful" and slightly sarcastic. It was professionally printed with a black border. He waited to mail the second invitation until he was sure it would not reach the governor and other officials until after the execution had been carried out.
The second invitation read:
"Revised Statutes of Arizona, Penal Code, Title X, Section 1849, Page 807, makes it obligatory on sheriff to issue invitations to executions, form (unfortunately) not prescribed.
Holbrook, Arizona
Jan. 7, 1900.
With feelings of profound sorrow and regret, I hereby invite you to attend and witness the private, decent and humane execution of a human being; name, George Smiley, crime, murder.
The said George Smiley will be executed on Jan. 8, 1900, at 2 o’clock p.m.
You are expected to deport yourself in a respectful manner, and any “flippant” or “unseemly” language or conduct on your part will not be allowed. Conduct, on anyone’s part, bordering on ribaldry and tending to mar the solemnity of the occasion will not be tolerated.
F.J. Wattron,
Sheriff of Navajo County
I would suggest that a committee, consisting of Governor Murphy, Editors Dunbar, Randolph and Hull, wait on our next legislature and have a form of invitation to executions embodied in our laws."
Regardless of the controversy, George Smiley was finally hanged on January 8, 1900. The hanging and the events leading up to it contributed significantly to the lore surrounding the Navajo County Courthouse.
The historic building served the Navajo County public until 1976 when a new governmental center was established south of Holbrook. In 1978, the Richardsonian Romanesque courthouse was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Today, the historic building houses the Holbrook Chamber of Commerce, a Visitor’s Center, and the Navajo County Historical Museum. The Navajo County Courthouse has become a treasured landmark.
But that’s not all! The Navajo County Courthouse is also reputed to be home to a couple of resident ghosts. The most prominent spirit is believed to be none other than George Smiley, the only man ever hanged at the courthouse. Since his date with the noose in 1900, he has reportedly been seen wandering about the building and pacing up and down the stairs. Historical Society staff also attribute unexplained phenomena to Smiley’s ghost, including doors that close on their own, strange noises heard throughout the building, and objects that are mysteriously moved.
Another entity reportedly seen looking out of the windows is a woman identified by staff as a former prisoner named "Mary." According to legend, Mary died inside one of the old jail cells while gazing out the window, longing for her freedom. The stories of George Smiley and Mary add a layer of mystery and intrigue to the historical significance of the Navajo County Courthouse.
Today, the historic courthouse should be the first stop for visitors to Holbrook. Friendly staff are available to provide maps, directions, and information about the area. The museum offers insights into Navajo County’s past, including ancient pottery, Native American art displays, artifacts from Holbrook’s early pioneers and businesses, and tours of the old county jail. During the summer months, Native American dancers offer free performances on weekday evenings at the courthouse.
Contact Information:
Navajo County Historic Courthouse
100 East Arizona Street
Holbrook, Arizona 86025
928-524-6558 or 800-524-2459
The Navajo County Courthouse is more than just a building; it is a tangible link to the past, a reminder of the people, events, and even the spirits that have shaped the region.