History & Hauntings of Fort Leavenworth

Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, a name synonymous with both significant historical events and chilling paranormal tales, stands as a testament to the rich and complex narrative of the American West. Established on May 8, 1827, by Henry Leavenworth, initially as Cantonment Leavenworth, this strategic outpost along the Missouri River holds the distinction of being the first settlement in Kansas territory and the oldest active Army post west of the Mississippi River. Its location, perched atop the bluffs overlooking the western bank of the Missouri, was carefully chosen for its commanding view and strategic importance.

The primary function of the nascent Fort Leavenworth was multifaceted. It served as a vital quartermaster depot, ensuring the supply of essential resources to westward-bound expeditions. It also functioned as an arsenal, storing and maintaining the weaponry necessary for frontier defense. Furthermore, it housed troops tasked with protecting the burgeoning fur trade and safeguarding the increasingly vital commerce traversing the Santa Fe Trail. The establishment of History & Hauntings of Fort Leavenworth marked a pivotal moment in the westward expansion of the United States, providing a secure base of operations for military and civilian activities alike.

The early years of History & Hauntings of Fort Leavenworth were not without their challenges. In May 1829, the post was temporarily evacuated, becoming occupied by Kickapoo Indians until it was re-garrisoned later that year. This brief period of abandonment underscores the precarious nature of frontier life and the constant negotiation between settlers and indigenous populations. On February 8, 1832, the post officially adopted the name Fort Leavenworth, solidifying its identity and its place in the annals of American history.

Quickly, Fort Leavenworth transformed into a crucial hub for the thousands of soldiers, surveyors, and settlers venturing westward. These pioneers relied on the fort for protection, supplies, and guidance as they navigated the vast and often perilous landscapes of the American West. Soldiers stationed at Fort Leavenworth played a critical role in escorting wagon trains, safeguarding vital supply routes stretching across the Santa Fe and Oregon Trails, and supporting military outposts as far west as the Pacific Ocean. In 1839, Colonel Stephen W. Kearny led a formidable force of ten companies of dragoons against the Cherokee, marking the largest U.S. mounted force ever assembled, a testament to the fort’s growing military significance. The narrative of History & Hauntings of Fort Leavenworth is deeply interwoven with the threads of westward expansion and military might.

The passage of the Kansas-Nebraska Act in 1854 plunged the region into turmoil, ushering in the era of "Bleeding Kansas." This period of intense political and social unrest saw pro-slavery "bushwhackers" clashing violently with anti-slavery "jayhawkers," each vying for control of the territory. The Army stationed at Fort Leavenworth found itself tasked with the unenviable role of attempting to maintain order and prevent the conflict from escalating further. Military expeditions originating from Fort Leavenworth, under the command of General Albert Sidney Johnston, also played a role in the Mormon War of 1857-58, aiming to bring Brigham Young and the Mormon community in Utah back under federal authority.

During the tumultuous years of the Civil War, Fort Leavenworth served as a vital recruitment and mustering point. Camp Lincoln, located within the fort’s boundaries, processed thousands of volunteers who would go on to fight for the Union cause. Between 1861 and 1865, the regular army stationed at Fort Leavenworth formed the bedrock upon which volunteer forces were built. The fort’s strategic importance made it a tempting target for Confederate forces, with Confederate General Sterling Price advancing toward it in 1864. However, Price’s ambitions were thwarted by his defeat at the Battle of Westport, Missouri, on October 23, 1864, securing Fort Leavenworth’s position as a Union stronghold.

The westward expansion of railroads during the Civil War made them increasingly vulnerable to attacks by Plains Indians. With western posts undermanned due to the conflict, an unusual solution was implemented: Confederate prisoners were called upon to help fight the hostile Native American tribes. Five such regiments were outfitted at Fort Leavenworth, highlighting the complex and often contradictory nature of wartime decisions.

For the subsequent three decades, Fort Leavenworth served as the primary base of operations on the Indian frontier. Its central mission was to control the American Indian tribes inhabiting the Western plains. From 1865 to 1891, the Army engaged in over 1,000 combat engagements with various tribes, including the Apache, Modoc, Cheyenne, Ute, Nez Perce, Comanche, Kiowa, and Kickapoo. These conflicts arose from the fundamental clash of interests: the Native American tribes sought to preserve their ancestral lands and way of life, while the United States government aimed to confine them to reservations. The constant violation of treaties and the failure to provide promised supplies further fueled the conflict, leading to widespread resentment and resistance. Fort Leavenworth was directly involved in the Indian Wars until 1878, when Chief Joseph’s Nez Perce tribe was detained at the fort following their defeat in 1877.

In 1866, the U.S. Congress authorized the formation of four black regiments: the 24th and 25th Infantry Regiments and the 9th and 10th Cavalry Regiments. The 10th Cavalry Regiment was established at Fort Leavenworth under the command of Colonel Benjamin H. Grierson on September 21, 1866. These soldiers, who became known as the "Buffalo Soldiers," earned a reputation for valor and resilience. The Kiowa, impressed by their fighting prowess, bestowed upon them the term "Buffalo Soldiers," which became a badge of honor for black soldiers across the four regiments. The Buffalo Soldiers departed Fort Leavenworth to achieve repeated honors on the plains and throughout the West. They later fought in Cuba in 1898, earning praise from Theodore Roosevelt and his Rough Riders for their pivotal role in the battle for Santiago. The Buffalo Soldiers also served on the Mexican border before the American entry into the First World War. Today, a monument stands at Fort Leavenworth, commemorating the contributions and sacrifices of the Buffalo Soldiers of the 9th and 10th Cavalry Regiments.

The United States Disciplinary Barracks, a maximum-security prison for all military branches, was established in 1875 and operated until 2002, when a new facility was constructed. The old barracks once housed over 1,000 prisoners. In later years, the barracks served as a temporary holding facility for Nazi prisoners before their execution at the fort. The renowned boxer "Rocky" Graziano even began his boxing career while incarcerated at the barracks.

The fort’s first Catholic Church was built in 1871, later replaced by St. Ignatius Chapel in 1889. Sadly, St. Ignatius Chapel was destroyed by fire in December 2001, and its foundation is now preserved as a memorial park. The first Protestant Memorial Chapel, constructed using prison labor and locally quarried stone, was completed in 1878.

With the conclusion of the Indian Wars, Fort Leavenworth transitioned into a critical component of the Army’s officer education system, setting a global standard for military corrections. In 1881, General William T. Sherman established the School of Application for Cavalry and Infantry, which eventually evolved into the U.S. Army Command and General Staff College. This prestigious institution has produced numerous distinguished military leaders, including George C. Marshall, Dwight D. Eisenhower, Douglas MacArthur, Colin Powell, and George Patton.

In 1885, the Wadsworth of Old Soldiers Home was constructed, later becoming the Veterans Administration Center. In 1893, the Immanuel Chapel, made famous by Ripley’s "Believe It or Not," was built on the VA grounds.

World War I underscored the wisdom of Sherman’s initiative. Fort Leavenworth graduates played a crucial role in planning complex American Expeditionary Forces operations, ultimately dominating staffs throughout the Expeditionary Forces by the war’s end.

Between the World Wars, Fort Leavenworth General Staff College graduates included such notable officers as Dwight D. Eisenhower, Omar N. Bradley, and George S. Patton. During World War II, approximately 19,000 officers completed various courses at Fort Leavenworth. By the end of 1943, commanders and staff of 26 infantry, airborne, and cavalry divisions had trained as teams at the school.

The school received its current name in 1946. In 1959, the college relocated to J. Franklin Bell Hall on Arsenal Hill. In 1985, the Harold K. Johnson wing was added to accommodate the Combined Arms and Services Staff School. Eisenhower Hall was dedicated in 1994, housing classes for the School of Advanced Military Studies, the School for Command Preparation, and the Combined Arms Research Library.

The Combined Arms Center (CAC) was established in 1973. Since then, the senior headquarters on the post has been responsible for training, doctrine, and leader development. Today, CAC, through its major subordinate organizations and associated schools and centers, prepares the Army and its leaders for war as the Center for Excellence in leader development, doctrine, collective training, and battle command.

The Lewis and Clark Center, the new home of Command and General Staff College, opened in 2007. This state-of-the-art training center, costing $115 million, includes 96 classrooms for over 1,500 students and 600 faculty members.

In addition to its training facilities, Fort Leavenworth continues to house active soldiers, including the 35th Infantry Division.

While Fort Leavenworth welcomes visitors and the general public without requiring a military ID, all visitors over the age of 16 must present a valid government ID card, such as a driver’s license, passport, or military ID, to enter the post. Vehicles must have current tags, proof of insurance, and registration, and are subject to search upon arrival.

Visitors can access Fort Leavenworth through either the Main Gate near North 7th Street or the Hancock Gate near North 20th Street, both located off Metropolitan Avenue (US-73/KS-92/7). Fort Leavenworth is situated two miles north of the city of Leavenworth in the northeastern corner of Kansas.

Limestone pedestals scattered throughout the main post area form part of the Historical Fort Leavenworth Wayside Tour. These pedestals provide information and audio narratives detailing the history of each site. The self-guided tour begins at the Frontier Army Museum, which chronicles the story of Fort Leavenworth and the Frontier Army with its extensive collection of weapons, uniforms, and equipment. The main exhibit gallery presents the history of the Army west of the Mississippi River from 1817 to 1917. The museum is located at 100 Reynolds Avenue.

Fort Leavenworth Hauntings

Beyond its documented history, Fort Leavenworth is also steeped in tales of the paranormal. Several old officers’ houses on the historic post are said to be haunted, with reports of faces appearing in fireplaces and unexplained noises echoing through the night. Many believe these apparitions are the spirits of inmates executed at the United States Disciplinary Barracks and those buried in the National Cemetery located just beyond the prison walls.

• The Chief of Staff’s Quarters (624 Scott Avenue): Residents and visitors have reported hearing the sounds of a tea party emanating from the parlor, even when the room is empty.

• Former Site of St. Ignatius Chapel (632 Thomas Avenue): The original chapel burned down in 1875, claiming the life of a young priest named Father Fred. After the fire, salvaged materials were used to build a new residence. Scorched bricks, some bearing the name "Father Fred," can still be seen in the dining room fireplace. Residents have reported seeing Father Fred walking through the house in his priestly robes, often on the stairs, in the kitchen, and in the dining room. A Polaroid photograph taken at a dinner party in the 1970s reportedly captured his robed figure.

• The General’s Residence (1 Scott Avenue): It is said that General George Armstrong Custer continues to roam the first floor of this old residence. His spirit supposedly lingers due to his 1867 court-martial at Fort Leavenworth for leaving his command and mistreating his troops. The hearing was held in the commanding general’s quarters, where Custer was found guilty and suspended for a year without pay.

• Old Disciplinary Barracks: Tower number eight, unrenovated and unmanned in later years, was said to be haunted by a soldier who committed suicide there. Guards reported seeing movement inside the closed-off tower, and the control tower frequently received static-filled phone calls from Eight Tower despite it having no phone. Other towers were also reportedly haunted, with guards hearing footsteps and knocks on the trap door entrance when no one was present. Building 65, formerly the prison hospital, featured a haunted elevator where, according to legend, 14 German POWs were executed. Guards reported hearing screams from the elevator. On the third floor, a ghostly man in a wheelchair was often seen being pushed by another ghostly figure.

• The Officers’ Quarters (605 McClellan Avenue): The apparition of a man with a mustache and goatee has been seen in the fireplace, even during a burning fire. The face lingered after the fire died down. The apparition has also been seen in a bedroom and in the bathroom with an old-fashioned razor and shaving cream. Loud footsteps, doors slamming shut, scratching noises, and crashes have also been reported, along with icy cold spots.

• The Rookery (12 and 14 Summer Place): Built in 1832, this duplex is the oldest house on the base and is considered the most haunted house in Kansas. The most prevalent ghost is a woman with long hair who attacks people with her fingernails. Other apparitions include an elderly woman chattering in the corner, a young girl throwing a tantrum, and an old man in a nightshirt with bushy hair who rouses residents from their sleep.

• Sumner Place: The houses in this area are haunted by a kind woman in a black woolen dress and shawl, believed to be a former nanny or housekeeper. This benevolent spirit is said to help with domestic chores and comfort upset children. However, she is reportedly hostile towards other babysitters or grandmothers, whom she considers competition. Residents of 16 Sumner Place were so disturbed by her presence that an exorcism was performed, after which she moved next door to 18 Sumner Place.

• The National Cemetery: The ghost of Catherine Rich (or Sutter) has been seen walking among the tombstones. In 1880, Catherine’s children disappeared while collecting firewood and were presumed drowned. After Catherine died of pneumonia while searching for them, her husband learned that the children had been rescued by Fox Indians. Catherine’s ghost continues to search for her lost children, often carrying a lantern and calling out in the darkness. The ghost of Chief Joseph, a Nez Perce leader incarcerated here in 1877, has also been reported. Civil War soldiers have also been seen walking through the nearby woods.

The combination of historical significance and persistent paranormal tales makes History & Hauntings of Fort Leavenworth a unique and intriguing destination.