Langtry, Texas – Home of the Only Law West of the Pecos

Nestled in the rugged landscape of southwestern Val Verde County, Texas, a whisper of the Old West echoes through the near-ghost town of Langtry, Texas. A place where history and legend intertwine, it holds the distinction of being the stomping ground of Roy Bean, the self-proclaimed "Law West of the Pecos." While its current state might suggest a bygone era, Langtry’s story is rich with tales of railroad construction, frontier justice, and the enduring allure of the American West.

The genesis of Langtry, Texas, much like several other settlements in the region, is intimately tied to the arrival of the Galveston, Harrisburg, & San Antonio Railroad in 1881. Before assuming its now-famous name, the area was a simple grading camp established to support the railroad workers who were forging a path through the unforgiving terrain. Initially, it was known as Eagle Nest, a moniker derived from the nearby Eagle Nest Creek.

The creek itself owed its name to a striking natural feature that had long served as a landmark for travelers and settlers in the region. High up in Eagle Nest Canyon, an almost inaccessible limestone cavern commanded attention. For generations, a pair of majestic golden eagles had chosen this lofty perch to build their nest, establishing a visible symbol that imprinted itself on the landscape and the collective memory of those who passed through. The canyon, the creek, and eventually the railroad camp all bore the testament to these winged inhabitants.

Beneath the towering canyon walls, an ancient crossing point etched by the passage of time served as a vital artery for various groups. Native American tribes, resourceful ranchers, stoic soldiers, and the legendary Texas Rangers all utilized this crossing. The railroad engineers, recognizing the strategic importance of the location, erected a high bridge across the canyon, although it was dwarfed by the colossal structure spanning the Pecos River to the south.

The transformation of Eagle Nest into Langtry, Texas, was largely attributed to the efforts of the Torres family, who possessed significant land holdings in the area. They not only provided the land upon which the town was laid out but also ensured a reliable water supply for the voracious steam locomotives that were the lifeblood of the railroad. In recognition of his contributions to the railroad’s construction, the town was renamed in honor of George Langtry, a dedicated engineer and foreman who had overseen a Chinese work crew.

The realities of frontier life in the burgeoning railroad town are starkly revealed in a historical note penned by Texas Ranger Captain T.L. Oglesby on July 5, 1882, to his commanding officer General King.

"Eagle Nest, Pecos County, Texas, July 5, 1882

“Upon my arrival here on June 29, I proceeded to visit all the railroad camps and scout the country thoroughly. There is the worst lot of roughs, gamblers, robbers, and pick-pocketed collected here I ever saw, and without the immediate presence of the state troops, this class would prove a great detriment towards the completion of the road. There is nothing for Rangers to do but hold this rough element in subjection and control them. The majority of the railroad camps are in Pecos County. This immediate section being 200 miles from Fort Stockton, the nearest jurisdiction Court of Justice and the consequent minor offenses go unpunished; but, I hope to remedy that in a few days by having a Magistrate appointed for the precinct.”

This account paints a vivid picture of a lawless environment, highlighting the urgent need for a legal authority to maintain order amidst the chaos of the railroad boom.

Enter Roy Bean, a man whose name would become synonymous with Langtry, Texas, and frontier justice, or rather, his unique interpretation of it. When the call went out for a Justice of the Peace, Bean eagerly stepped forward. On August 2, 1882, he officially became the "legal authority" in the area, embarking on a colorful and controversial career that would cement his place in Western lore.

Initially, Bean dispensed his brand of "justice" from a tent saloon in Vinegarroon, another raucous railroad camp located south of Langtry. True to his entrepreneurial spirit, he quickly established another tent saloon on railroad land, much to the dismay of Cezario Torres, who owned a considerable amount of land adjacent to the railroad right-of-way.

By 1883, Bean had replaced his temporary tent saloon with a more permanent wooden structure, which he christened the "Jersey Lilly," a tribute to the captivating British stage actress Lillie Langtry. Though her real name was Emilie Le Breton and she had no direct connection to George Langtry, the actress became an object of fascination for Bean. He used the saloon as his combined headquarters and courtroom, proudly declaring himself the "Law West of the Pecos."

The Torres family, particularly Cezario, vehemently opposed Bean’s presence and authority, leading to a protracted rivalry between Bean and Cezario’s son, Jesus. However, despite their objections, Bean’s establishment thrived, becoming a central hub for the growing community. While his methods were often unconventional and his rulings eccentric, they were generally considered effective in maintaining a semblance of order in the rough-and-tumble frontier town.

Langtry, Texas, under Bean’s "jurisdiction," operated under a unique legal system. With no jail available, all cases were resolved through fines, which conveniently tended to match the amount of money the accused happened to be carrying. Unsurprisingly, Bean was never known to remit any of the collected fines to the state treasury, instead opting to line his own pockets.

Despite being portrayed in popular Western films and literature as a ruthless "hanging judge," Bean only sentenced two men to hang, one of whom managed to escape. In cases involving horse thieves, who were often subject to hanging, Bean would often show leniency if the stolen horses were returned and a fine was paid. The infamous "hanging tree" was primarily used as a post to which prisoners were shackled. Bean also supplemented his income by granting divorces, despite lacking the authority to do so, and performing wedding ceremonies, which he invariably concluded with the ominous words, "and may God have mercy on your souls."

The completion of the railroad in January 1883 brought increased prosperity to Langtry. The depot facilitated a steady flow of customers to the local saloons and provided a crucial shipping point for agricultural products and supplies. In 1884, the town secured a post office, marking a significant step toward permanence and growth. However, the majority of the population continued to reside in tents, reflecting the transient nature of frontier life.

By 1892, Langtry, Texas boasted a general store operated by W.H. Dodd, another saloon run by the Torres family, and a population of approximately 150 residents.

Bean’s grip on power was briefly loosened in 1886 when he was defeated in an election. However, his absence from the bench was short-lived. The following year, a new precinct was created after Langtry became part of Val Verde County, and Bean was reappointed as Justice of the Peace.

He continued to win elections until 1896, when he was finally ousted from office. True to form, Bean refused to relinquish his authority, retaining his seal and law book and continuing to preside over cases north of the railroad tracks.

In 1896, Judge Roy Bean orchestrated a nationally publicized boxing match in Langtry, Texas. With boxing outlawed in Texas, he shrewdly scheduled the heavyweight fight between Robert James Fitzsimmons and Peter Maher on a sandbar on the Mexican side of the Rio Grande, just south of Langtry. Bean arranged for the press, spectators, and Texas Rangers to travel by train from El Paso to witness the spectacle. The fight was short and decisive, with Fitzsimmons knocking Maher out in a mere 95 seconds to claim the heavyweight title.

Throughout his time in Langtry, Bean relentlessly cultivated the myth of his "acquaintance with Miss Langtry," regaling anyone who would listen with tales of their supposed connection. He even built a home behind the saloon, grandiosely calling it the "Opera House" in anticipation of a visit from the famous actress. While he never actually met Lillie Langtry, he frequently wrote to her, and she allegedly responded with letters and even sent him two pistols, which he treasured for the rest of his life. He also falsely claimed credit for naming the town after her, further solidifying the legend that intertwined their lives.

By the dawn of the 20th century, Langtry, Texas, had evolved into a commercial center for the surrounding ranching community. It boasted a population of several hundred, a school, and more permanent structures, replacing the earlier tent dwellings.

In his later years, Roy Bean became an aging figure, often found on his porch with a shotgun in his arms, indulging in alcohol and boasting about his past exploits. However, he was also known for his acts of charity, assisting the less fortunate residents of the area. After a period of heavy drinking, Bean succumbed to lung and heart ailments, passing away in his saloon on March 16, 1903, without ever meeting Lillie Langtry. He was initially laid to rest in Westlawn Cemetery in Del Rio, Texas. However, due to the constant stream of visitors to his grave, he and his son, Samuel, were later re-interred behind the Whitehead Memorial Museum.

Nearly a year after Bean’s death, Lillie Langtry finally made her way to his former home. En route from New Orleans to Los Angeles, she paused to listen to the townspeople recount stories of Judge Roy Bean. Reflecting on her visit, she later wrote, "It was a short visit, but an unforgettable one."

Around the same time, Langtry, Texas, began a period of decline. The relocation of the highway slightly to the north for a more direct route negatively impacted the town’s accessibility. The decline was further accelerated in 1926 when the railroad moved its tracks, depot, and water tank half a mile away. By this time, the town’s population had dwindled to approximately 50 people.

In 1939, the Texas Highway Department undertook the restoration of Bean’s old saloon courtroom, preserving a tangible piece of the town’s history. By 1945, the population had rebounded to around 100. Today, Bean’s home and saloon are part of a museum and visitor center, attracting tourists eager to experience the legend of the "Law West of the Pecos." Despite an estimated population of over 100, Langtry, Texas, retains the atmosphere of a ghost town. Its few remaining businesses include a post office, a dairy bar, and a convenience store. Many of the area’s buildings are in a state of disrepair.

Located just west of town, the old cemetery is sadly in an even worse condition, a stark reminder of the passage of time and the fading memories of those who once called Langtry home.

Nevertheless, thousands of tourists continue to visit the Judge Roy Bean Visitor Center each year. A visit to this small town is well worth the stop to see the old saloon, and learn of the area’s history, and the view of the Rio Grande and Mexico just across the way is breathtaking.

Langtry is located on Loop 25 off U.S. Highway 90 just north of the Rio Grande and eight miles west of the Pecos River near the southwestern corner of Val Verde County.