Lebanon, Missouri – Trails Through the Ozarks
Nestled in the heart of south-central Missouri, where the rolling hills of the Ozarks begin their ascent, lies the city of Lebanon. As the county seat of Laclede County, this vibrant community offers a unique blend of historical significance and modern progress. Situated along the well-trodden path of Interstate 44, Lebanon, Missouri boasts a rich heritage deeply intertwined with the evolution of transportation routes that have shaped the region for centuries. From ancient Native American trails to the iconic Route 66, and now the modern interstate, Lebanon’s story is etched in the landscape itself.
The narrative of Lebanon begins long before the arrival of European settlers. The Wyota and Osage Indians, indigenous peoples of the region, established and utilized trails that snaked through the Ozark foothills. These pathways served as vital arteries for trade, hunting, and intertribal communication. The land surrounding present-day Lebanon provided essential resources and strategic advantages, making it a significant area for these early inhabitants. The echoes of their presence can still be felt in the place names and historical accounts passed down through generations.
As westward expansion gained momentum in the 19th century, these Native American trails were gradually transformed and adapted by settlers and the U.S. military. During the tumultuous years of the Civil War, one of these trails gained prominence as the "Wire Road." This vital communication line connected St. Louis and Springfield, Missouri, using telegraph lines that ran alongside the existing path. The Wire Road played a crucial role in military strategy and information dissemination during the war, making Lebanon a strategically important location subject to the conflict’s ebb and flow.
The dawn of the automobile age in the early 20th century ushered in a new era for Lebanon. In 1926, the iconic Route 66 was established, forever altering the trajectory of the town. This legendary highway, often romanticized as the "Mother Road," roughly followed the path of the earlier Native American trails and the Wire Road, solidifying Lebanon’s position as a crucial stopover for travelers venturing across the country.
The history of Lebanon as a settled community began in 1820, when Jesse Ballew, recognized as the area’s first white settler, constructed a log cabin on the east bank of the Gasconade River. For nearly three decades, it grew slowly. Then, in 1849, when Laclede County was officially formed, the small settlement of Wyota, named in honor of the indigenous Wyota Indians, was designated as the county seat. However, the name Wyota was short-lived. A respected local minister proposed renaming the town Lebanon, drawing inspiration from his own hometown in Tennessee. The name change was adopted, and a courthouse was erected on the town square, marking the formal establishment of Lebanon as the heart of Laclede County.
The initial wave of settlers who flocked to Lebanon were primarily farmers and hunters hailing from Tennessee. They were drawn to the area’s promise of fertile farmland, abundant game, and numerous rivers and springs. Word quickly spread eastward about the region’s potential, sparking a steady stream of migration to the burgeoning settlement. These early pioneers laid the foundation for the community’s agricultural and economic prosperity.
In the 1850s, the Lebanon Academy was established, signifying a commitment to education and cultural development. This institution of higher learning soon became the focal point of intellectual and social life in the town, attracting students from surrounding areas and contributing to the community’s growing sophistication.
Despite its steady growth, Lebanon remained a relatively small and secluded settlement as the Civil War loomed. While Missouri officially declared itself a neutral state, the sympathies of many of its residents, including those in Lebanon, leaned toward the Confederacy due to their Southern heritage and cultural ties. The 1860 presidential election underscored this sentiment, with Abraham Lincoln receiving a mere single vote in the town.
Throughout the Civil War, Lebanon experienced deep divisions among its population, even within families. The town was occupied by troops for the duration of the conflict, with Union forces maintaining control for most of the war, except for a brief six-month period in late 1861 when Confederate troops held sway. The war left its mark on Lebanon, causing disruption and hardship. Following the war’s conclusion, the community rallied together to rebuild and heal, officially incorporating as a town in 1867.
In a decision that would later shape the town’s development, Lebanon declined to provide land for a railroad depot during the westward expansion of the railway system. Consequently, the railroad tracks were laid a mile away from the existing settlement. Over time, the commercial heart of the town gradually shifted closer to the railroad, leading to the original site being designated as "Old Town." Eventually, the original town square faded from prominence.
Despite the railroad decision, Lebanon continued to evolve. In 1882, the Lebanon Opera House opened its doors, adding to the town’s cultural offerings and providing a venue for community gatherings and events. However, it was a unique discovery in 1889 that brought renewed attention to Lebanon. While drilling a water well for the community, workers unearthed water with unusual magnetic properties. Locals began to drink and bathe in the water, attributing healing properties to it.
The discovery of magnetic water fueled the construction of the Gasconade Hotel, the most opulent structure ever erected in Lebanon. This grand hotel boasted a capacity of 500 guests and featured a ballroom, restaurant, reception rooms, and a bathhouse situated next to the magnetic well. The hotel’s developers envisioned attracting visitors from across the nation seeking the healing waters. Sadly, the hotel failed to meet expectations and was eventually repurposed as a sanatorium. That endeavor was also short-lived. The building then served as a venue for community events, and there were even discussions about transforming it into a college. However, a mere decade after its construction, the Gasconade Hotel was tragically destroyed by fire in October 1899.
The arrival of Route 66 in 1926 marked a turning point for Lebanon. As the largest town between Rolla and Springfield, Missouri, Lebanon became a vital stop along the Mother Road. The town quickly adapted to cater to the needs of travelers, with roadside services and accommodations springing up along the highway. Camp Joy, one of the earliest motels along Route 66, opened in 1927 as a tent camp, offering lodging for a mere 50 cents a night. Over time, cottages and a combination gas station/grocery store were added to the complex. The Spears family operated Camp Joy for 44 years, leaving an indelible mark on Lebanon’s Route 66 history.
In 1931, Arthur T. Nelson constructed the 24-room Nelson Hotel and Dream Village at the intersection of Route 66 and Missouri Highway 5. This establishment quickly became a renowned destination along Route 66, attracting travelers from Chicago to Los Angeles. The Nelson Hotel offered private baths and kitchen facilities in each room, with rates ranging from $2 to $3 per night. Across the street, Nelson built his "Dream Village," a collection of twelve units constructed from native Ozark stone, arranged around a courtyard featuring a captivating fountain. In the evenings, the fountain became the centerpiece of a mesmerizing light and music show, drawing crowds of onlookers. Nelsonville, as it was known locally, eventually faded into history when Route 66 was replaced by I-44.
The Munger-Moss Motel, constructed in 1946, stands as a Route 66 icon to this day, welcoming history buffs from around the world. The complex initially comprised seven buildings and offered garages adjacent to the units for the convenience of guests. Later, the garages were converted into additional rooms. Bob and Ramona Lehman owned the vintage motel starting in 1971. Bob passed away in February 2019, and Ramona sold the hotel due to her age and health in early 2023. The new owners intend to preserve a few motel rooms for Route 66 enthusiasts, while converting many of the other rooms into long-term rentals.
Route 66 in Lebanon also boasted some unique dining establishments. Perhaps the most memorable was Andy’s Street Car Grill, housed in an actual streetcar brought in from St. Louis. The restaurant’s signature dish was "Andy’s Famous Fried Domestic Rabbit." Sadly, Andy’s is no longer in operation. Until recently, visitors could enjoy home-style cooking at the Bell Restaurant, but it has unfortunately closed as well.
Wrink’s Market, another beloved Lebanon landmark along Route 66, opened in June 1950 and remained in operation until the death of its owner, Glenn Wrinkle, in March 2005. This one-of-a-kind vintage market offered a diverse array of groceries, collectibles, dry goods, and Route 66 memorabilia. However, the main attraction was always Glenn Wrinkle himself, who captivated Route 66 travelers with his stories spanning over half a century along the Mother Road. Following Mr. Wrinkle’s death, the family auctioned off the store’s contents. His son briefly resurrected the market as a convenience store, but it closed in 2009.
In June of 2017, Wrink’s Market was revived once again by his granddaughter, Katie Hapner. Hapner told the Lebanon Daily Record, "I think Wrink’s Market should be here. My grandfather loved Route 66 and all the people who came through here. That’s why he did it, and I think that’s why I want to do it. It’s for them, his customers, the people he loved so much."
Today, Lebanon is a growing community of approximately 12,000 residents. While modern franchise-operated strip malls and hotels have emerged, glimpses of vintage America can still be found throughout the town.
For those traveling to Lebanon from the west on I-44, take Exit #127 to access Route 66. The next five miles will provide a glimpse into the historic route that once stretched from Chicago to Los Angeles. (Travelers coming from the east on I-44 should exit at #135 and follow the signs for old Route 66.)