Los Cerrillos, New Mexico – Two Thousand Years of History
Nestled in the heart of New Mexico, a state brimming with historical significance, lies the unassuming village of Los Cerrillos. Though small in stature, its story stretches back millennia, weaving a rich tapestry of Native American heritage, Spanish exploration, and a booming mining era. As Fayette Jones, Director of the New Mexico Bureau of Mines, aptly stated in 1905, "From a historical standpoint, no section in the United States is possessed of so much interest" when referring to the Cerrillos Mining District. This statement encapsulates the captivating narrative of this unique locale.
While the town of Los Cerrillos wasn’t officially established until 1879, the surrounding area boasts a history extending over 1,500 years. The area’s earliest inhabitants, Native Americans, recognized the significance of the region’s natural resources. Turquoise and lead deposits played a vital role in their lives, providing materials for adornment, tools, and trade. These very resources would later draw the attention of Spanish explorers, profoundly influencing the subsequent settlement of New Mexico.
The first wave of Spanish explorers arrived in the region around 1540. Initially, they showed little interest in the turquoise prized by the indigenous population. Their primary focus lay on the pursuit of gold and silver. As a result, the early interactions between the Spanish and the Native Americans in the Los Cerrillos area were relatively limited. It wasn’t until the mid-1600s that a more permanent European presence began to take root. At this time, a cattle ranch was established south of the Santa Fe River near Alamo Creek. It was during this period that the nearby hills were christened Los Cerrillos, meaning "little hills" in Spanish, a name that endures to this day. The allure of silver soon drew the Spanish back, and they forced the local Native American population to labor in the Mina del Tiro Mine until the Pueblo Revolt of 1680 temporarily drove them out.
In 1695, Governor Vargas, seeking to reestablish Spanish control, appointed a mayor for El Real de los Cerrillos, marking it as the oldest Western mining settlement with a clear record. However, this attempt at permanence was short-lived. During the Reconquista of 1696, El Real de los Cerrillos was once again abandoned as the Spanish forces focused on securing other areas. Despite the departure of most Spaniards, the Native American tribes continued to utilize the mines, demonstrating their enduring connection to the land and its resources.
The late 19th century marked a dramatic shift in the destiny of Los Cerrillos. In 1879, two miners hailing from Leadville, Colorado, stumbled upon gold deposits in the area. This discovery ignited a frenzy of prospecting and rediscovery. American prospectors, drawn by the promise of riches, flocked to the Cerrillos Hills, rediscovering the ancient diggings and seeking gold, silver, lead, copper, and of course, turquoise. The Cerrillos Mining District was officially formed in March 1879, and the rush was on. In a remarkably short time, over 1,000 mining claims were filed, transforming the landscape and the lives of those who sought their fortune within it. Several mining camps sprang up to accommodate the influx of prospectors, including Dimmick’s Camp, which later became known as Carbonateville due to its rich deposits of silver carbonate.
The village of Los Cerrillos itself emerged as a natural hub, situated strategically between the lead and silver mines of Carbonateville to the north and the coal mining camp of Madrid and the gold mines of the Placer and Ortiz Mountains to the south. This advantageous location allowed it to flourish as a central access point for the burgeoning mining industry. However, it was the arrival of the railroad in 1880 that truly propelled the town’s growth and cemented its importance in the region.
The Santa Fe Railroad played a pivotal role in shaping the layout of Los Cerrillos, laying out the town in 1880. That same year, a post office was established, further solidifying the town’s status as a permanent settlement. Just two years later, the mining camp officially became a city, a milestone marked by the construction of a railroad siding, the holding of its first election, and the completion of its first permanent home. These developments signaled a new era of stability and prosperity for Los Cerrillos.
The mineral boom in the Cerrillos Hills reached its zenith in the mid-1880s. Miners tirelessly extracted a wealth of resources from the earth, including gold, silver, lead, zinc, and of course, the prized turquoise. The population swelled to approximately 3,000 prospectors, creating a vibrant, if somewhat rowdy, community. The town supported a thriving entertainment industry, boasting some 21 saloons, five brothels, four hotels, and several newspapers. The town’s significance was so pronounced that it was even considered as a potential capital for the Territory of New Mexico. However, as the peak of mineral production passed in the 1880s, coal mining gradually emerged as the dominant force in the local economy.
The importance of the Los Cerrillos area to the turquoise trade is further emphasized by an 1899 report indicating that New Mexico’s turquoise production was valued at $1,600,000, with the vast majority originating from the Cerrillos Hills. This figure highlights the enduring value and desirability of the region’s turquoise deposits.
As the 20th century dawned, the mining landscape began to shift. Only a handful of mines in the area managed to survive into the new era. The most prominent of these was the American Turquoise Company, a subsidiary of the renowned Tiffany’s of New York, located on the north side of Cerrillos. The onset of World War I brought a temporary resurgence in mining activity, with several lead mining operations, including the Cash Entry and the Tom Paine mines, reopening to meet wartime demands. However, the onset of the Great Depression in 1929 brought an end to large-scale company mining in the area. Today, small private mines continue to be worked by hobbyists, preserving a link to the town’s mining heritage. Despite the decline in large-scale operations, the Cerrillos Hills remain a source of turquoise, contributing to New Mexico’s ongoing production.
Today, Los Cerrillos presents a captivating blend of history and charm. While officially considered a "ghost town" by some, it remains a living community with residents who cherish its unique character and rich past. The town has become a popular day trip destination for visitors from Santa Fe and beyond, drawn to its preserved architecture and Wild West atmosphere. On certain days, its dusty streets bustle with traffic, reminiscent of its bustling days more than a century ago. The washboard dirt roads and remaining buildings on Front Street evoke the feeling of a movie set, and indeed, Los Cerrillos has served as a backdrop for numerous films, including The Nine Lives of Elfego Baca, Young Guns, Young Guns II, Vampires, and John Wayne’s 1972 movie, The Cowboys.
The historic city still boasts a few open businesses, including the Casa Grande Trading Post and Mining Museum, which features exhibits and a petting zoo. Here, visitors can purchase Cerrillos turquoise, still mined and crafted by the Brown family at their family-owned Little Chalchihuitl Mine in the Cerrillos Mining District. Other attractions include the What Not Shop, filled with antiques, an old saloon, an art gallery, and riding stables. The Saint Joseph Church, built in 1922, continues to hold mass every Sunday, and the village’s water supply still flows from the original dam constructed by the Santa Fe Railroad.
A visit to Los Cerrillos is incomplete without a stop at the Cerrillos Hills Historic Park, located just north of town. Here, along the hiking and biking trails, visitors can discover remnants of the old mines, the low stone walls and ruins of Carbonateville, and prehistoric stone rings and petroglyphs that bear witness to the area’s ancient Native American heritage.
The Cerrillos Mining District holds a place of honor in the annals of history, listed on the New Mexico State Register of Cultural Properties and included in the US Department of Interior’s National Survey of Historic Sites and Buildings. These designations underscore the area’s exceptional historical and cultural significance.
Los Cerrillos is located approximately three miles north of Madrid, New Mexico, along the Turquoise Trail Scenic Byway (NM 14), making it an accessible and rewarding destination for those seeking to explore the rich history and natural beauty of New Mexico.
As you explore Los Cerrillos, remember the Explorer’s Code: "Take nothing but photos – leave nothing but footprints – break nothing but silence – kill nothing but time." This sentiment captures the spirit of responsible exploration, ensuring that the beauty and historical integrity of this remarkable place are preserved for generations to come.