Overland Mail on the Santa Fe Trail
By Colonel Henry Inman in 1897
The story of the Overland Mail on the Santa Fe Trail is interwoven with the development of the American West, a narrative propelled by steamboats, ambitious traders, and the relentless pursuit of commerce and connection. The early 19th century witnessed the dawn of a new era in transportation with the advent of steamboat navigation on the mighty Mississippi River. In 1817, the river’s currents were first challenged by these innovative vessels, marking a significant step forward in westward expansion. On August 2nd of that year, the General Pike triumphantly reached St. Louis, Missouri, heralding the arrival of a new mode of transport to the burgeoning western town. Not long after, the Independence etched its name in history as the first steamboat to navigate the Missouri River, reaching Franklin, Missouri, on May 28, 1819. This momentous occasion was celebrated with a dinner held in honor of the boat’s officers, signifying the importance of river travel in connecting communities and facilitating trade. The following month, the Western Engineer Expedition and the R. M. Johnson steamed into view, carrying Major Stephen Long’s scientific exploring party, their destination the distant Yellowstone River, and their mission the mapping and understanding of the vast, unexplored territories of the West.
At this time, the allure of trade with the remote cities of Mexico beckoned to American entrepreneurs. However, access to these markets was tightly controlled, with only a select few able to secure permits from the Spanish government. This exclusivity fueled a desire for broader access and greater opportunities for commerce. In 1821, the winds of change swept through Mexico as the Mexican War of Independence shattered the grip of Spanish rule and ushered in an era of newfound freedom. With independence came the lifting of trade restrictions, opening the doors to foreign merchants and transforming the Santa Fe Trail. What had once been a mere track across the continent now blossomed into a bustling artery of commerce, connecting the United States with the riches and opportunities of Mexico. The Santa Fe Trail became a vital link, facilitating the exchange of goods, ideas, and cultures between two nations embarking on new paths.
The transformative power of river navigation was not lost on the astute Santa Fe traders. They quickly recognized the potential to shorten the arduous journey across the vast plains, seeking a strategic location further upriver than Franklin, Missouri, to serve as a central shipping and outfitting hub. The quest for a more advantageous starting point led to the establishment of trading posts at various locations along the Missouri River.
By 1827, bustling trading posts had sprung up at Blue Mills, Fort Osage, and Independence, Missouri, each vying for dominance in the burgeoning Santa Fe trade. Blue Mills, situated a mere six miles downstream from Independence, initially gained favor as the preferred landing spot. The ease of transferring goods from wagons to boats solidified its position as a key trade center, resisting early attempts to dislodge it. However, Independence, the county seat and a more prominent town, possessed a distinct advantage. Its strategic location and established infrastructure made it a strong contender for the title of trade headquarters. By 1832, Independence had successfully asserted its claim, emerging as the undisputed American hub and primary outfitting point for the Santa Fe commerce. This dominance continued until 1846 when the outbreak of the Mexican-American War brought a temporary halt to the vibrant trade that had defined the town’s identity. The story of the Overland Mail on the Santa Fe Trail is thus deeply intertwined with the rise and fall of these pivotal trading posts.
Independence’s significance extended beyond the Santa Fe trade; it also served as the primary outfitting point for the large fur companies venturing into the Rocky Mountains. These influential organizations dispatched pack trains, larger than any other engaged in the fur trade, laden with goods destined for trade with various Native American tribes. Mules pulled wagons loaded with merchandise, traded for valuable skins and pelts of animals. These goods were invariably purchased in St. Louis, Missouri, and shipped to Independence, consigned to the esteemed firm of Aull and Company. This company provided traders with everything they needed, from mules and provisions to any other supplies required for the arduous journey ahead. The Overland Mail on the Santa Fe Trail thus relied on the logistical prowess of Independence and the businesses that thrived there.
To mitigate the risks posed by the vast and often dangerous terrain, individual traders often formed joint caravans, traveling together for mutual protection against potential Indian attacks. Upon reaching a point fifty miles beyond the state line, a new system of organization took effect. Each trader assumed responsibility for his men, overseeing a designated number of pack animals, managing their loading and unloading in camp, and maintaining general supervision over their well-being. This collective approach ensured the safety and efficiency of the caravans as they navigated the challenging landscapes of the West.
Frequently, a single caravan could boast as many as 300 mules, each carrying a load of 300 pounds. Thousands of wagons also departed from Independence annually, each drawn by twelve mules or six yokes of oxen and laden with general merchandise. The sheer volume of goods transported along the Santa Fe Trail underscored the scale of the trade and its vital role in the economic development of the region.
In those early days, packing houses were non-existent closer than St. Louis. The bacon and beef essential for the Santa Fe trade were sourced from the local farmers of the surrounding countryside. These enterprising individuals slaughtered their own livestock, cured the meat, and transported it to town for sale. Similarly, wheat was ground at local mills, and the resulting flour, along with corn, dried fruit, beans, peas, and other essential provisions, were brought to market, providing sustenance for the long and arduous journey across the plains. The Overland Mail on the Santa Fe Trail depended on the hard work of these local farmers.
Independence soon became the premier market west of St. Louis for cattle, mules, and wagons. As the acknowledged headquarters for the Santa Fe trade, the town provided employment for thousands of men, including the vital teamsters and packers who traversed the Santa Fe Trail. Wages and rations ranged from $25 to $50 per month, offering a reasonable livelihood for those willing to brave the challenges of the frontier. The price for hauling freight to Santa Fe was a lucrative $10 for every 100 pounds, with each wagon earning between $500 and $600 per trip, typically completed in 80 to 90 days. Some particularly efficient caravans were able to make even quicker time, further enhancing the profitability of the trade.
Merchants and general traders in Independence reaped significant financial rewards during this period. Food was in constant demand, and mules and oxen were sold in large numbers each month at excellent prices, always paid in cash. A skilled stockman could readily earn between $10 and $50 per day, highlighting the economic opportunities that the Santa Fe trade brought to the town.
One of Independence’s most prominent manufacturers and enterprising young men was Hiram Young, an African-American businessman. In addition to crafting hundreds of wagons, he produced all of the ox-yokes used in the Santa Fe trade, crafting an impressive 50,000 annually during the 1850s until the outbreak of the Civil War. These yokes were sold at an average price of $1.25 for forward yokes and $2.25 for wheel yokes, making Young a significant contributor to the town’s economy.
The freight transported by wagons was always loaded with meticulous care. Each package had its contents clearly marked on the outside, and the wagons were heavily covered and tightly sealed to protect the goods from the elements and potential theft. Every man belonging to the caravan was thoroughly armed and maintained constant vigilance to repel any attacks by hostile Indians.
At times, particularly when crossing the treacherous Arkansas River, quicksand posed a significant obstacle. In such situations, speed was of the essence. To expedite the crossing, as many as 40 to 50 yoke of oxen were hitched to a single wagon, quickly pulling it through the perilous ford. The necessity of this measure, however, varied depending on the water level and the occurrence of recent floods.
The conclusion of the Mexican-American War marked a dramatic surge in the freight business across the plains. The United States’ acquisition of the territory fueled a renewed interest in the New Mexico trade, leading to a division of traffic between Westport and Kansas City. Independence gradually lost its dominance in overland commerce as Kansas City began its rapid ascent. The subsequent discovery of gold in California further amplified westward movement, drawing thousands of individuals and families across the plains and Rocky Mountains in pursuit of their fortunes in the new El Dorado. The Santa Fe Trail became the primary highway for this massive migration, transforming Independence and Kansas City into key emigration points.
In July 1850, an account detailing the first mail stage departing westward from Independence provided a glimpse into the sophistication and security measures employed by the Overland Mail. The stages were described as being elegantly designed, each capable of carrying eight passengers. The bodies were beautifully painted and constructed to be watertight, allowing them to be used as makeshift boats for ferrying across streams. Each coach was drawn by a team of six mules, and the mail was guarded by eight armed men. Each guard was equipped with a Colt’s revolving rifle, a Colt’s long revolver, a small Colt’s revolver, and a hunting knife, allowing them to discharge a total of one hundred and thirty-six shots without reloading. The Overland Mail on the Santa Fe Trail understood the need for robust security.
The contractors established a base of operations at Council Grove, Kansas, a distance of 150 miles from Independence. They dispatched a blacksmith and a team of men to cut and cure hay, along with a supply of animals, grain, and provisions. The intention was to create a traveling station and establish a farm. Plans were also underway to create a similar settlement at Walnut Creek the following season. Two stages departed from Independence on the first of each month, ensuring a regular and reliable mail service.
Initially, the monthly stages departed simultaneously from each end of the route. Later, the service was increased to once a week, then three times a week, until, in the early 1860s, daily stages operated from both ends. Each coach could carry eleven passengers, with nine squeezed inside – three on each seat – and two perched on the outside boot alongside the driver. The fare to Santa Fe was a steep $250, and baggage allowance was limited to 40 pounds, with any excess charged at a rate of 50 cents per pound. This considerable sum included the board of the travelers, although the cuisine was far from extravagant. The standard fare consisted of hardtack, bacon, and coffee, supplemented occasionally by the bounty of the plains, such as antelope and buffalo.
There was an undeniable sense of adventure associated with these journeys from the Missouri River to the mountains. The constant threat of encountering hostile Indians loomed large, adding an element of danger and excitement to the travel. The playfulness of the drivers, who occasionally indulged in alcohol, sometimes led to the unsettling of tenderfoot passengers in remote arroyos long after nightfall.
The trip from the Missouri River to Santa Fe typically took about two weeks, although delays caused by high water or Indian encounters could extend the journey by several days. The animals were initially changed every 20 miles, but this was later reduced to every ten miles to improve speed. Passengers were forced to sleep sitting upright, as there were no overnight stops. The stage continued day and night until reaching Santa Fe.
After a few years, the stagecoach company established stations at intervals ranging from ten to fifty miles. Here, the animals and drivers were exchanged, and travelers were provided with meals. While always substantial, the meals lacked variety and cleanliness. Passengers were often forced to consume hard biscuits, suitable for use as "round-shot," and a questionable concoction euphemistically referred to as coffee.
However, some stations were notable exceptions, particularly those located in the mountains of New Mexico. Aside from the standard fare of bread – usually tortillas made from the blue-flint corn of the region – and the ubiquitous coffee, the meals were often excellent. Fresh brook trout and venison from black-tailed deer, elk, bear, and other game were abundant, and the cost for a passenger meal was a mere $1.
Years later, a visit to Kozlowski’s Ranch, a picturesque cabin near the Glorieta Mountains, served as a poignant reminder of the changes wrought by the passage of time and the advent of the railroad. The former owner’s wife lamented the decline of the region since the arrival of the railroad, stating that it had devastated their family and many others. Kozlowski’s Ranch, once a popular eating station on the Santa Fe Trail, was now a ruin, a stark contrast to the old temple and church on the hill. The once-broad trail to Santa Fe was now overgrown with weeds and sunflowers, and the silence of the valley was broken only by the passage of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad.
In addition to the driver, another essential employee was the conductor, or messenger, who oversaw the mail and express matter, collected fares, and generally attended to the needs of the passengers throughout the long and arduous journey. Unlike the driver, who was changed at regular intervals, the messenger remained with the coach from its departure to its final destination. While the official capacity was eleven passengers, emergencies sometimes required the accommodation of up to fourteen individuals, resulting in cramped and uncomfortable conditions.
The departure from Independence typically involved powerful horses, usually four in number, which were exchanged for mules at the first station. These mules then hauled the coach for the remainder of the journey.
Drivers were typically changed about eight times during the trip to Santa Fe. Some were humorous characters with a wealth of anecdotes and stories about the Trail. It took a certain amount of nerve and stamina to handle eight mules through rugged mountain passes, especially during heavy snowstorms or when descending icy slopes. Accidents were frequent, and sometimes severe.
A snowstorm in the mountains was a dreaded event. The only option was to wait for the storm to subside, as progress was impossible in the face of the blinding sheets of snow. Passengers were forced to sit inside the coach, shivering in the freezing temperatures. A summer hailstorm was even more perilous, as the hailstones in the Rocky Mountains were known for their size and velocity. Such storms often caused the mules to stampede, forcing passengers to leap from the coach to avoid being thrown down a precipice.
Traveling in a stagecoach for the first day and night was extremely tiring, but one eventually grew accustomed to the constant motion. The monotony could be alleviated by walking, but this was often necessitated by accidents, such as a broken wheel or axle, or an animal giving out before reaching a station. No deduction was made from the fare regardless of whether one rode or walked.
During periods of heightened Indian activity, the government provided military escorts from nearby military posts. These escorts typically traveled in a six-mule army wagon, commanded by a sergeant or corporal. Before the army established a strong presence on the plains, the stagecoach had to rely on the courage of its occupants and the skill of the driver.
A driver familiar with Indian tactics would typically choose to travel under the cover of darkness in areas where the threat of Indian attacks was high, as Indians rarely attacked at night. Early morning was their preferred time, demanding heightened vigilance.
The vast distances of the plains were often deceptive. Objects that appeared to be nearby often remained seemingly out of reach even after hours of travel. This was due to the clarity of the atmosphere, which magnified distant objects. Mirages were also common, distorting the landscape into bizarre and fantastical shapes.
Violent storms were also frequent occurrences. A sudden gale of wind and hail once brought a coach to a standstill, forcing the driver and passengers to hold onto the wheels to prevent it from being blown into a ravine.
It was common to either immediately like or dislike the driver and conductor. On one occasion, the passengers developed a friendly rapport with their driver, who entertained them with stories of his many adventures on the Trail.
The next coach was attacked at the crossing of Cow Creek by a band of Kiowa warriors. The Indians had followed the stage all afternoon, and they commenced to circle the coach, firing their guns and attempting to stampede the mules. The passengers and crew defended themselves, but they were outmatched. A company of United States Cavalry arrived, driving off the Indians. Two passengers were seriously wounded, and one soldier was killed, but the Indian losses were never determined.
William H. Ryus, a driver and messenger with 35 years of experience, recounted numerous incidents. He had crossed the plains 65 times by wagon and coach. In July 1861, he was employed to drive over the "Long Route," from Fort Larned, Kansas, to Fort Lyon, Colorado, a distance of 240 miles with no stations in between.
The journey involved gathering buffalo chips for fuel, cooking buffalo and antelope steaks, and dealing with troublesome passengers. Ryus and his crew had a simple solution for the latter: they would yell "Indians!" to quickly quiet them down. They sometimes traveled hundreds of miles through vast buffalo herds, and the Indians, who considered the buffalo their cattle, often allowed them to pass through their villages unharmed.
In July 1862, Colonel Jesse Henry Leavenworth, traveling in Ryus’ coach, sought to meet with Satanta, the great Kiowa chief. Ryus and the colonel journeyed to the Indian village, where they encountered a scalp dance. They met with Satanta, who greeted Colonel Leavenworth with great joy, recalling the colonel’s presence among the Indians as a boy. The chief treated them with the utmost hospitality.
Colonel Albert G. Boone, the grandson of Daniel Boone, had previously made a treaty with these same Indians in 1860, and he served as their agent. Under his administration, the Indians were peaceful and friendly toward the whites. In 1861, however, Boone was removed from his position due to false accusations.
Majors, Russell, and Waddell, the major government freight contractors across the plains, gifted Colonel Boone 1400 acres of land near present-day Pueblo, Colorado. The town was named Booneville, and the colonel moved there. In the fall of 1862, a delegation of Indians visited Colonel Boone and requested his return as their agent, expressing concerns about their current agent’s dishonesty.
Early the next year, a caravan traveling to the Missouri River was attacked by Indians at Nine Mile Ridge, resulting in the deaths of all but one teamster. This incident sparked a long war, resulting in numerous deaths and property destruction.
In the fall of 1863, Ryus served as the messenger in charge of the coach running from Kansas City to Santa Fe. Due to the Indian war, military escorts were required. Ryus’ coach was attacked several times.
The old stagecoach days were a time of Western romance and adventure. The ruts carved by the coaches can still be seen in some places along the Santa Fe Trail. The Overland Mail on the Santa Fe Trail contributed to shaping the old west.
By Colonel Henry Inman, 1897. Compiled and edited by Kathy Alexander, updated March 2023.
Also See:
- Early Traders on the Santa Fe Trail
- Santa Fe Trail – Highway to the Southwest
- Pathways To the West
- Stagecoaches of the American West
About the Author: Excerpted from the book, The Old Santa Fe Trail by Colonel Henry Inman, 1897. Note: The text is not verbatim, as minor edits have been made throughout the tale. Henry Inman was well known as an officer in the U.S. Army and an author dealing with subjects of the Western plains. During the Civil War, Inman was a Lieutenant Colonel, and afterward, he won distinction as a magazine writer. He wrote several books, including his Old Santa Fe Trail, Great Salt Lake Trail, The Ranch on the Ox-hide, and other similar books dealing with the subjects he knew so well. Colonel Inman left several unfinished manuscripts at his death in Topeka, Kansas, on November 13, 1899.