Raton, New Mexico – Legends of America
Nestled in the northeastern corner of New Mexico, where the state kisses the southern border of Colorado, lies the captivating city of Raton. As the county seat of Colfax County, Raton stands proudly at an elevation of 6,680 feet (sekitar 2.036 meter), cradled at the foot of the legendary Raton Pass. This strategic location has shaped the city’s history, culture, and identity, making it a compelling destination for history buffs, outdoor enthusiasts, and anyone seeking a taste of the authentic Southwest.
A Tapestry of Cultures and Eras
Raton’s story is woven from the threads of diverse cultures and pivotal historical moments. Long before European contact, the area was home to various Native American tribes. The Ute people thrived in the mountains, while the Apache, Comanche, and Kiowa tribes roamed the plains. These indigenous communities left an indelible mark on the landscape and continue to contribute to the region’s cultural richness.
The arrival of Spanish explorers in the early 1700s marked a new chapter in Raton’s history. These early adventurers were drawn to the area’s natural resources and strategic location. However, it wasn’t until Mexico gained independence from Spain in 1821 that the region truly began to open up to trade and settlement.
The Santa Fe Trail: A Lifeline to the Southwest
William Becknell’s pioneering spirit led him to blaze the Mountain Branch of the Santa Fe Trail across Raton Pass. This trail became a vital artery for commerce and communication, connecting the eastern United States with the burgeoning settlements of the Southwest. However, in those early days, the rugged terrain of Raton Pass limited its use to pack animals. As a result, the Cimarron Route of the Santa Fe Trail became the preferred path for most traders.
Simultaneously, a new breed of adventurer emerged: the mountain men. These intrepid individuals ventured into the uncharted territories of the southern Rocky and Sangre de Cristo Mountains, seeking fortunes in beaver pelts. Their explorations led to the creation of trails that would later become roads, guiding countless expeditions into the heart of the Southwest.
From Frontier Hunter to Land Baron: The Maxwell Land Grant
In 1841, Charles Beaubien and Guadalupe Miranda received the Beaubien-Miranda Land Grant, a vast expanse of nearly two million acres spanning northeastern New Mexico and southwestern Colorado. This grant would later fall into the hands of Lucian Maxwell, who transformed himself from a frontier hunter into the largest individual landowner in the United States, controlling a staggering 1,714,765 acres.
However, Maxwell’s reign as a land baron was relatively short-lived. In 1870, he sold off the majority of his land, and over the years, the grant was gradually broken up. Nevertheless, the legacy of the Maxwell Land Grant continues to shape the region’s history and identity.
The Army of the West and the Transformation of Raton Pass
In 1846, General Stephen Watts Kearny and his 1,600-strong Army of the West marched along the Mountain Branch of the Santa Fe Trail, making crucial improvements to Raton Pass. These enhancements opened the route to wagons, significantly increasing the flow of people and goods through the area.
As traffic along the Santa Fe Trail increased, a campsite known as Willow Springs emerged as a popular stopover. Shaded by two towering willow trees and blessed with a refreshing spring, it offered respite to weary travelers. This idyllic spot was located at the entrance to what would later be known as Railroad Canyon.
By 1860, the Majors, Waddell, & Russell Freight Company was hauling wagons across Raton Pass, solidifying its importance as a trade route. In the same year, Willow Springs was designated as a government forage station, with the army constructing a corral and storehouse to stockpile provisions for military wagon trains. The site’s ample pasturage also made it an ideal location for livestock.
"Uncle Dick" Wootton and the Toll Road Revolution
In 1865, Richens "Uncle Dick" Wootton took on the ambitious project of building a 27-mile toll road over Raton Pass. This transformative endeavor significantly improved the route, which had previously been in deplorable condition, requiring five arduous days to traverse. With Wootton’s toll road, travel time was drastically reduced, although travelers had to pay a toll at a tollgate just north of the Colorado state line.
Stagecoaches, Cattle Drives, and the Rise of Willow Springs Ranch
In 1866, Barlow & Sanderson’s Southern Overland Mail & Express Co. secured the mail contract and launched a weekly stage service between Kansas City, Missouri, and Santa Fe, New Mexico, following the Mountain Branch of the Santa Fe Trail. Home and swing stations were established along the route, reducing the journey to a mere 13 days. Willow Springs served as a vital water and emergency station for the stage line.
In the same year, Charles Goodnight pioneered the movement of cattle over Raton Pass, marking the beginning of large-scale cattle drives through the region. However, the high cost of Wootton’s toll road prompted Goodnight to shift his route eastward, utilizing Trinchera Pass for future cattle drives.
During the 1860s, a modest two-room jacal log house was built at Willow Springs. In 1871, Mr. Sears acquired the property, replacing the old house with a larger four-room log house facing the spring. That same year, John Thacker established the Willow Springs Ranch, grazing approximately 700 head of cattle on the surrounding land. By 1874, the owner of Willow Springs Ranch was selling water to travelers for 25 cents per bucket, leading many to postpone their bathing and other water needs until a cheaper source could be found.
As the spring water began to dwindle, a 70-foot well was dug at Willow Springs. The Barlow & Sanderson stage line continued to rely on Willow Springs as a watering place and emergency station. In early 1878, George J. Pace rented part of the ranch house from William Boggs, operating a store. That same year, a post office was established in the store, with George Pace serving as the postmaster.
The Iron Horse Arrives: Raton’s Railroad Boom
While Willow Springs was evolving into a bustling hub, the Atchison, Topeka, and Santa Fe Railroad was steadily laying tracks across Raton Pass. The arrival of the first locomotive in December 1878 and the first passenger train in July 1879 marked a turning point in Raton’s history, effectively ending the era of the Santa Fe Trail.
In 1879, George J. Pace relocated his store and post office to nearby Otero, only to move them back to the newly established city of Raton in 1880. The town was named after Raton Ridge, a prominent geologic formation north of the town, and Raton Pass, a key passage in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, part of the Rocky Mountain chain.
By 1880, dozens of trains were chugging through Raton Pass, bringing prosperity to the burgeoning city of Raton. Railroad workers boarded at William Boggs’s place, the former site of Willow Springs. In the same year, railroad officials formed the New Mexico Townsite Company and purchased 320 acres from the Maxwell Land Grant Company. They quickly began laying out a townsite, adopting the name of the post office.
Houses and businesses were relocated from Otero, and new establishments sprang up, including the Raton Bank, Grant Central Restaurant, Five-Cent Beer Saloon, a boot and shoe shop, a grocery store, a dry goods store, merchandise stores, a barbershop, a photo studio, doctors, lawyers, and the Raton Guard newspaper. The latter publication fueled conflict with the Maxwell Land Grant Company, which was attempting to evict squatters from their lands.
By the summer of 1881, the settlement boasted a population of 400, and the Raton Townsite was expanded. In 1882, the railroad constructed a roundhouse and a boarding house for railroad workers, and the Raton Comet newspaper was established.
"Pittsburg of the West": Coal Mining and Industrial Growth
The rapid expansion of the railroad into Northern New Mexico spurred regional growth in sheep and cattle ranching. The Raton Coal Field was developed in the area. The synergy between the railroad and coal mining gave the town an industrious character, earning it the nickname "Pittsburg of the West."
Lawlessness and Justice: The Hanging of Gus Mentzer
Raton’s early days were not without their share of lawlessness. In February 1882, William Burbridge opened the Bank Exchange Bar in what is now the 100 block of South First Street. He had arrived in Raton in 1881 with a partner, Gus Mentzer, from Texas. However, Mentzer’s penchant for gambling and excessive drinking caused problems in the saloon.
Burbridge dissolved the partnership and kicked Mentzer out. On June 26, 1882, Mentzer returned to the saloon, seeking to be reinstated. When Burbridge refused, Mentzer opened fire, wounding two men in the saloon and killing two more as he fled toward the depot. Pursued by an angry mob, Mentzer was apprehended and hanged near the Raton Bank Building.
The Colfax County War and the Fate of Willow Springs
William Boggs, the last operator of the Willow Springs site, remained there until around 1885, when the new owners of the Maxwell Land Grant Company claimed ownership and evicted him. In retaliation, a group of Anti-Granters reinstated Boggs in the house, defying the deputies to remove him.
The matter was temporarily dropped, but Boggs was eventually forced to vacate. This episode was part of the Colfax County War, a conflict between the new owners of the Maxwell Land Grant and the numerous residents who lived in the area. Afterward, Willow Springs changed hands several times and was eventually absorbed by the town of Raton. The former Willow Springs site is located at the intersection of present-day Maxwell Avenue and North Third Street.
Enduring Landmarks and Historic Architecture
During the 1880s, several buildings were constructed that continue to grace Raton’s landscape today. These include Cook’s Hall, built in the late 1880s at 140-144 South First Street; the Marchiondo Building, constructed in 1882 at 120-124 First Street; the Home Ranch Saloon, built in 1884 at 132 North First Street; the A.H. Carey Hardware Store, established in 1882 at 112 North Second Street; and the Labadie House, built in 1880, one of the oldest dwellings in town, located between 1st Street and 2nd Street across from Ripley Park.
Red-Light District and Early Governance
A red-light district thrived in Raton from the late 1880s into the early 1900s, encompassing several homes and businesses on First Street.
The town was officially organized in 1891, and in 1897, the Colfax County Seat was relocated from Springer to Raton, solidifying its position as the region’s center of commerce and governance.
Coal Mining Boom and Turn-of-the-Century Prosperity
By the turn of the century, Raton was surrounded by numerous coal mines, employing over 2,000 men. These included the Koehler Mine, the Van Houten Mine, the Gardiner Mine, the Brilliant Mine, and the Sugarite Mine. By this time, Raton was home to 3,540 residents.
This era of prosperity saw the construction of many of Raton’s elegant buildings, including the Shuler Theater, built in 1913 as a combination city hall and municipal auditorium; the Abourezk Building, built in 1906 for a drug store; and the Raton Depot.
Decline and Renewal: Tourism and Historic Preservation
Coal mining flourished throughout the region until the decline of the industry beginning in the 1960s.
Tourism in Raton gained momentum after World War II, with the establishment of La Mesa Racetrack in 1946. New Mexico’s first racetrack attracted numerous visitors for years until its closure in 1992.
After the closure of most of the coal mines and the La Mesa Racetrack, Raton experienced a period of relative decline, marked by the loss of retail and hospitality jobs in the downtown area.
Raton’s downtown area was designated as a Registered Historic District in 1977. The district encompasses approximately 200 acres and contains 95 significant buildings. A self-guided walking tour is available at the Raton Museum, which showcases exhibits related to Raton’s ranching, mining, Santa Fe Trail, and railroad history. Raton was designated as one of the first Arts and Cultural Districts in 2009, leading to upgrades to many buildings.
Modern Raton: A Blend of History and Progress
Today, Raton is a vibrant city with a population of approximately 6,103.
Located on the old Santa Fe Trail and part of the Dry Cimarron Scenic Byway, Raton offers a wealth of attractions for visitors.
Sugarite Canyon State Park, located 12 miles northeast of Raton, features the ruins of the old Sugarite coal mining town, as well as camping, fishing, and hiking opportunities. Capulin Mountain National Monument, a symmetrical volcanic cone rising 1,500 feet, lies 32 miles to the southeast.
Historic buildings can be found in the historic district, including the Palace Hotel, built in 1896. An art gallery occupies the old Wells Fargo Express Company office. The former Swastika Hotel, built in about 1928 by the Swastika Coal Company, has long been home to the International Bank. The train still runs by the historic Santa Fe Depot, offering passenger service by Amtrak. First Street houses galleries, antique shops, gift shops, and cafes today.
Goat Hill, the home of the "Raton" sign, offers spectacular panoramic views of the area.
Raton, New Mexico, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of the American West. Its rich history, stunning landscapes, and welcoming community make it a destination that will captivate and inspire.