Sego Canyon – History & Ancient History
Nestled in the rugged landscape north of Thompson Springs, Utah, lies Sego Canyon, a place where time seems to blur. Also known as Book Cliffs and Thompson Wash, this captivating destination is more than just a scenic detour off Interstate 70, west of the Utah/Colorado border. It’s a journey into the distant past, a visual narrative etched in stone by ancient cultures, and a poignant reminder of a once-thriving coal mining community.
A visit to Sego Canyon offers a unique opportunity to explore both prehistoric rock art and the haunting remnants of the ghost town of Sego, a testament to the boom-and-bust cycles of the American West. The canyon’s allure lies in its layered history, where the echoes of ancient civilizations resonate alongside the stories of determined miners and the challenges they faced.
The road to discovery begins approximately 3 ½ miles north of Thompson Springs on Sego Canyon Road. Here, the imposing canyon walls serve as a canvas for an extraordinary collection of petroglyphs and pictographs, the artistic legacy of several distinct cultures. These ancient markings provide invaluable insights into the lives, beliefs, and artistic expressions of the people who once called this region home.
Among the most prominent are the creations of the Fremont culture, which flourished from A.D. 600 to 1250. Contemporary with the Anasazi (Ancestral Puebloan) culture of the Four Corners area, the Fremont people left behind a rich tapestry of rock art, characterized by distinctive human-like figures, intricate geometric patterns, and depictions of animals that roamed the surrounding lands.
However, the artistic narrative of Sego Canyon extends far beyond the Fremont period. Rock art from the Archaic period, dating back as far as 7000 B.C., offers glimpses into the lives of some of the earliest inhabitants of the region. The Barrier Canyon Style, dating from around 2000 B.C., is particularly striking, featuring large, mummy-like human figures without arms or legs, often adorned with elaborate headdresses and intricate body markings. These imposing figures evoke a sense of mystery and wonder, leaving visitors to ponder their meaning and significance. Finally, the Ute tribe, who arrived in the area around A.D. 1300, also contributed to the canyon’s rock art legacy, adding their own unique style and cultural perspectives to the existing tapestry.
Sadly, the passage of time and the impact of human activity have taken their toll on these irreplaceable cultural treasures. While preservation and restoration efforts are ongoing, much of the rock art has suffered from graffiti and other forms of damage. This underscores the importance of responsible visitation and a commitment to protecting these fragile remnants of the past for future generations.
After immersing yourself in the ancient art of Sego Canyon, continue your journey north on Sego Canyon Road. About half a mile past the rock art panels, the road forks. The left fork leads into Thompson Canyon, while the right fork beckons towards Sego Canyon and its historical treasures. Take the right fork, and you’ll soon arrive at Sego’s old cemetery, a poignant reminder of the lives and struggles of those who once called this place home.
Just a mile or so beyond the cemetery lies the ghost town of Sego itself. Stepping into Sego is like stepping back in time, offering a glimpse into the realities of life in a remote coal mining community during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Sego’s story began in the early 1890s when Harry Ballard, a prosperous farmer and rancher, discovered coal on land adjacent to his property. Recognizing the potential of his discovery, Ballard secretly began acquiring the surrounding land and initiated small-scale coal operations.
The small settlement that sprung up around the mines was initially named Ballard, in honor of its founder. In the early days, the coal was extracted manually and transported down the narrow canyon by wagons, a testament to the arduous labor involved in the mining process.
Word of the high-quality coal in Sego Canyon eventually reached Salt Lake City, attracting the attention of B.F. Bauer, a hardware store owner with a keen eye for opportunity. Bauer purchased Ballard’s property and established the American Fuel Company, a venture capitalized at $1 million.
In 1911, the American Fuel Company embarked on an ambitious plan to develop the area and establish long-term coal production. The company constructed a variety of essential infrastructure, including the American Fuel Company Store, a boarding house to accommodate the influx of workers, various mining buildings, the first coal washer west of the Mississippi River, and a tipple for loading coal onto trains.
The settlement was renamed Neslin, in honor of Richard Neslin, the general manager of the American Fuel Company. However, the name change was short-lived.
In 1914, the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad completed a spur line from Thompson to the coal camp, a feat of engineering that involved crossing the stream 13 times in just five miles. The arrival of the railroad was initially seen as a boon for the community, facilitating the transportation of coal to markets further afield.
However, the camp soon faced a series of challenges that would plague it throughout its existence. Water shortages were a recurring problem, often rendering the coal washer inoperable. The railroad spur line was also prone to derailments, disrupting the flow of coal and adding to the company’s woes.
By 1916, B.F. Bauer, the primary investor, had grown dissatisfied with the company’s meager profits. He dismissed Richard Neslin, and the town was renamed Sego, after the sego lily, the state flower of Utah. The mine’s name was also changed to the Chesterfield Company.
Until 1927, the camp relied on its own power generation for mine operations, which resulted in frequent breakdowns and further hampered productivity. In that year, the company secured electricity from Columbia, Utah, some 100 miles away, at a cost of more than $100,000, placing an additional strain on its finances.
At times, the company struggled to meet its payroll obligations, resorting to paying miners in scrip, which could only be redeemed at the company store. This practice further eroded the miners’ already precarious financial situation.
The financial difficulties eventually reached a critical point, prompting the miners to organize under the United Mine Workers Union in 1933. With the union’s support, they were finally able to secure regular wages. At its peak, the mine employed approximately 125 miners, and the town boasted a population of around 500 people.
In 1947, the company’s financial struggles culminated in a sheriff’s auction in Moab, Utah, where the mine and its associated property were put up for sale. By this time, only 27 miners remained employed, many of whom had dedicated decades of their lives to working in the mine.
Determined to save their livelihoods, the remaining miners pooled their resources and submitted a bid at the auction. They were successful, acquiring the equipment and property for $30,010. They renamed the operation the Utah Grand Coal Company and resumed operations.
However, tragedy struck in 1949 when a fire destroyed the tipple, significantly reducing production. That same year, the railroad discontinued its service to Sego, forcing the new company to invest in dump trucks, loading ramps, and a new tipple. Despite these setbacks, the employee-owned company persevered and managed to recover.
Ultimately, however, the company could not overcome the changing economic landscape. In the early 1950s, railroads began to replace coal-powered steam engines with diesel engines, drastically reducing the demand for the mine’s coal.
In 1955, the Utah Grand Coal Company sold all of its holdings for $25,000 to a Texas-based company that was primarily interested in the 700 acres of land, which showed promise for oil and natural gas exploration, rather than the coal mines themselves. Following the sale, some of the buildings were relocated to Moab, and Sego officially became a ghost town.
For several decades, many of the original homes and buildings remained standing in the canyon. However, in the spring of 1973, a devastating act of vandalism destroyed much of what was left. Two carloads of treasure hunters were seen searching the old town with metal detectors. Later that day, many of the buildings were found in smoldering ruins, the result of arson committed by the treasure hunters in their relentless pursuit of hidden riches.
Today, the ghost town of Sego stands as a poignant reminder of a bygone era. The stone walls of the old American Fuel Company Store still stand, albeit without windows or a roof. Nearby, the crumbling walls of another stone building and the remnants of the two-story “American” boarding house serve as silent witnesses to the town’s history.
Throughout the canyon, visitors can find numerous other crumbling structures, mine shafts, foundations, and the old railroad bridges that once spanned the creek. The cemetery, with its overgrown vegetation and weathered headstones, provides a somber glimpse into the lives and deaths of the people who once called Sego Canyon home.
Accessing the canyon requires a high-clearance vehicle, and travel is not recommended during periods of expected rainfall due to the risk of flash floods. During recent rains, a 4-wheel drive vehicle is recommended to navigate the rocky and muddy roads.
The exit to Sego Canyon is located 25 miles east of Green River, Utah, on I-70. Take exit 187 and drive north on the main road through the town of Thompson Springs. The rock art is located 3 ½ miles north of Thompson Springs. Continue beyond the rock art for about ½ mile to reach a fork in the road. The left fork leads into Thompson Canyon, while the right fork leads to the Sego Cemetery and the ghost town of Sego, located about a mile north of the cemetery.
Visitors are urged to respect the town of Sego, its structures, and the Native American rock art, as all are located on private property. By respecting these historical and cultural resources, you can help ensure that future generations will have the opportunity to experience the unique and captivating allure of Sego Canyon.