Texas Forts Trail
Across the vast expanse of Texas, stretching from the Red River southward to the Rio Grande, lie the remnants of a once-imposing military presence – the 19th-century forts of Texas. These historical landmarks, scattered across the landscape, stand as silent witnesses to a tumultuous era of westward expansion, conflict, and the eventual taming of the Texas frontier. While a comprehensive exploration of all the state’s historical military sites is an undertaking far beyond the scope of a single journey, the Texas Forts Trail, a designated 650-mile Scenic Byway, offers a captivating glimpse into the lives and struggles of those who shaped the Lone Star State. This trail meanders through the heart of central Texas, connecting several of these lonely outposts, each with its own unique story etched into its weathered stones and sun-baked earth.
From 1848 to 1900, the United States Army constructed 44 major forts and established over 100 temporary camps throughout Texas. These installations were strategically positioned to protect settlers, maintain order, and assert federal authority in a rapidly changing territory. Beyond the U.S. Army’s efforts, numerous earlier fortifications, including forts built during the Republic of Texas era, private defensive structures, and Spanish Presidios, dotted the landscape, each playing a crucial role in the early history of the region. Today, these sites exist in various states of preservation, ranging from evocative ruins that whisper tales of the past to meticulously reconstructed forts that offer a tangible connection to history. Some locations are marked only by a simple historical marker, a poignant reminder of the events that unfolded on those grounds.
The 19th century witnessed a surge of settlers migrating westward, encroaching upon the ancestral lands of Native American tribes who had called this region home for centuries. The Kiowa, Comanche, and other Plains Indians, deeply resentful of the intrusion upon their territory, mounted fierce resistance, launching raids and attacks on wagon trains and settlements. These acts of defiance were a desperate attempt to protect their way of life and maintain control over their dwindling resources. However, the relentless influx of settlers, bolstered by the protection of soldiers stationed at the frontier forts, proved unstoppable. The Texas Forts Trail serves as a poignant reminder of this clash of cultures and the profound impact it had on the history of Texas.
When the Civil War erupted, Texas seceded from the Union, and all federal garrisons were ordered to evacuate their posts and surrender them to Confederate authorities. This marked a temporary shift in power, as the forts became strategic assets in the conflict. However, with the war’s conclusion, the U.S. Army returned to Texas, determined to maintain its presence and secure the frontier until it was fully subdued. The soldiers stationed at these forts were tasked with a multitude of responsibilities. They escorted wagon trains and ensured the safe passage of mail, patrolled designated sections of roads to deter bandits and outlaws, monitored the movements of Native American tribes, and pursued and punished raiding parties. Over the ensuing 15 years, these efforts gradually diminished Native American resistance, paving the way for the continued expansion of white settlement in Texas. Exploring the Texas Forts Trail provides insight into the dedication and hardships faced by these soldiers.
One notable engagement occurred in September 1874 when Colonel Ranald S. Mackenzie led his Fourth United States Cavalry in a strategic maneuver to trap Native American tribes within their refuge at Palo Duro Canyon in the Texas Panhandle. Mackenzie’s troops formed a vital component of the Red River Campaign of 1874-75, a military operation aimed at compelling the Kiowa, Cheyenne, and Comanche tribes to return to their designated reservations. On September 28th, Mackenzie’s scouts tracked the Native American trail to the precipice of Palo Duro Canyon. The soldiers then descended the steep slopes, plunging 700 feet to the valley floor below. The surprise attack forced the Native Americans to abandon their villages, allowing Mackenzie to seize over 1,100 horses, which were subsequently slaughtered to prevent their recapture. While casualties on both sides were relatively low, the relentless pursuit by the troopers and the onset of harsh winter weather ultimately compelled the Native Americans to surrender, effectively bringing the Red River War to a close. The Texas Forts Trail offers visitors a chance to reflect on the significance of this event.
In the five years following Mackenzie’s victory, white hunters descended upon the Plains, systematically decimating the vast southern buffalo herd for their hides and for sport. This unsustainable practice had a devastating impact on the buffalo population and the Native American tribes who depended on them for sustenance. Fort Griffin and the adjacent bustling town known as "The Flat" emerged as the epicenter of the buffalo hunting trade, attracting a diverse population of hunters, gamblers, prostitutes, gunmen, and thieves, all eager to profit from the booming industry. By 1881, the Comanche presence had vanished, and the buffalo population had dwindled to near extinction. With the primary purpose of the fort no longer relevant, the army closed Fort Griffin.
However, in the Trans-Pecos region of Texas, the army remained actively engaged in conflict, primarily against the Apache tribes. These skilled warriors conducted raids across the Rio Grande, launching attacks from their strongholds in the mountains of Chihuahua and Coahuila. In September 1879, a large band of Mescalero and Warm Springs Apache, led by the renowned Chief Victorio, initiated a series of attacks west of Fort Davis. Troops from throughout the region were dispatched to guard the area’s limited water sources. After several intense battles, Victorio and his men retreated back into Mexico, seeking refuge from the relentless pursuit. This marked the last major conflict between Native Americans and the U.S. Army on Texas soil.
With the decline of Native American resistance, the remaining forts transitioned into a period of relative peace and routine garrison life. As the need for these military installations diminished, the forts were gradually decommissioned and shut down.
Today, the Texas Forts Trail provides visitors with a unique opportunity to delve into the lives of pioneers, soldiers, and Native Americans who played pivotal roles in shaping the Lone Star State. The trail encompasses eight of the state’s most remarkable frontier forts in West and Central Texas, allowing visitors to walk in the footsteps of historical figures such as Robert E. Lee, John Butterfield, Buffalo Hump, Wyatt Earp, and Doc Holliday. In addition to the forts themselves, the byway offers access to a wealth of other attractions, including state parks, approximately 20 lakes, and numerous museums. This trail offers a rich and immersive experience, bringing the history of the Texas frontier to life. The Texas Forts Trail is more than just a scenic drive; it is a journey through time, a chance to connect with the past and gain a deeper understanding of the forces that shaped the state of Texas.