The Ghost Town Trail – Gleeson, Courtland & Pearce
Embark on a captivating journey through time along Arizona’s Ghost Town Trail, a dusty path that whispers tales of boom and bust, ambition and abandonment. This historical route, a mere 16 miles from the legendary town of Tombstone, unveils the remnants of three once-thriving settlements: Gleeson, Courtland, and Pearce. Each town, a unique testament to the allure and volatility of the mining era, offers a glimpse into a bygone era when dreams of fortune drew people to the arid landscapes of the American Southwest.
The adventure begins just a short drive from Tombstone, Arizona. This well-marked turnoff initiates a trip back in time as you venture to the Ghost Town Trail, taking you through the remnants of the area’s more prosperous past.
Gleeson, Arizona: A Copper Queen’s Rise and Fall
Nestled on the southern flank of the Dragoon Mountains, Gleeson’s history stretches back to the Native Americans, who recognized the land’s potential, though for decorative turquoise rather than precious metals. The arrival of white prospectors in the late 19th century, however, irrevocably altered the landscape. Discoveries of copper, lead, and silver ignited a feverish rush, leading to the establishment of a mining camp in the hills. Originally named Turquoise, the settlement briefly flourished after the opening of a post office in 1890. Yet, its fate was intertwined with the whims of fortune. When gold was discovered nearby at the Commonwealth claim, which would later become Pearce, the lure of the more precious metal proved too strong. Turquoise was abandoned, and its post office shuttered just four years later.
The narrative of Gleeson took a turn in 1900, thanks to John Gleeson, a miner from Pearce. Recognizing the potential of the long-forgotten Turquoise area, he began prospecting anew. His efforts were rewarded with the discovery of substantial copper deposits. Gleeson promptly filed several claims and established the Copper Belle Mine. News of his success spread like wildfire, attracting a fresh wave of miners to the region. Soon, a flurry of new mines emerged, each vying for a share of the copper bounty: Silver Belle, Brother Jonathan, Defiance, and Pejon. To be closer to the water supply, the new mining camp, now christened Gleeson, relocated down the hill. The post office reopened on October 15, 1900, solidifying Gleeson’s status as a burgeoning mining town with a population of around 500, nearly all employed in the mines.
Gleeson’s prosperity continued for over a decade before disaster struck in 1912. A devastating fire swept through the town, consuming some 28 buildings. However, the mines remained productive, and Gleeson was quickly rebuilt. John Gleeson eventually sold his interests in 1914, but copper production boomed, especially during World War I, when demand for the metal soared. But the prosperity was not to last. The post-war era brought falling copper prices and dwindling ore production. By the 1930s, the mines had all closed, and most of the population departed. Gleeson’s post office, a symbol of its former vitality, finally closed its doors on March 31, 1939, marking the town’s official transition to a ghost town.
Today, Gleeson stands as a poignant reminder of its vibrant past. The settlement still has a few residents, and numerous ruins remain, testaments to its former life. Visitors can explore the skeletal remains of a hospital, a saloon, a dry goods store, and several houses. The town’s jail still stands, while numerous mining remnants dot the landscape, and the large foundation of what was once a grand school hints at the town’s former aspirations. The Gleeson cemetery, located just west of town on the road to Tombstone, offers a somber reflection on the lives that were lived and lost in this isolated mining community. To continue your trek through Ghost Town Trail, follow Gleeson Road. You will come to Ghost Town Trail Road, just a mile beyond the town, turning north to continue to Courtland and Pearce.
Courtland, Arizona: A Larger Boom with Fewer Echoes
The next stop on the Ghost Town Trail is Courtland, a town that experienced a boom even more dramatic than Gleeson’s. Interestingly, though Courtland started later than nearby Gleeson, it grew to four times the size. Even more interesting is that this once larger town, which died later than its nearby neighbor, has far fewer remains.
Established in the early 1900s, Courtland drew miners from far and wide, all seeking employment with major mining companies such as Copper Queen, Leadville, Great Western, and Calumet and Arizona Mining Companies. One of the largest, the Great Western, was owned by W.J. Young, who named the quickly growing settlement for his brother Courtland.
A post office was established in March 1909, and the town rapidly expanded. Before long, Courtland boasted a population of 2,000, supported by two newspapers, various stores, a Wells Fargo office, and the Southern Arizona Auto Company.
The arrival of the Mexico and Colorado Railroad from Douglas further cemented Courtland’s importance as a regional hub. The town offered a range of amenities and entertainment options, including a movie theater, an ice cream parlor, a pool hall, and even a swimming pool.
However, like other mining towns in the area, Courtland’s fortunes were tied to the fluctuating price of copper and the eventual depletion of its mines. Though the town managed to survive the Great Depression, its post office closed in 1942. Many of its buildings had already been razed or moved, and what remained was quickly reclaimed by the desert.
Today, Courtland offers a stark contrast to Gleeson. The only visible remnants of its once-thriving existence are the old jail, a collapsing store, several foundations, and scattered mining debris. The hills surrounding Courtland are riddled with mines and old shafts, posing a hazard to hikers and serving as a reminder of the intense industrial activity that once defined the area. The second stop in the Ghost Town Trail offers a lesson on the boom and bust of mining towns.
Pearce, Arizona: A Legacy of Gold and Outlaws
Continuing along the Ghost Town Trail, approximately 10 ½ miles from Courtland, lies Pearce, the sole survivor of the three ghost towns, still maintaining its post office.
Pearce holds the distinction of being the first of the three towns to emerge, thanks to a chance discovery by a man named Jimmie Pearce. Ironically, Pearce wasn’t even looking for gold. A former Tombstone miner and boarding house owner, Jimmie Pearce, along with his wife, decided to retire from mining, bought ranch land in the Sulphur Springs Valley, and settled down to ranching with their three children.
In 1894, while on his ranch, he stumbled upon gold lying on the side of a hill. He had it assayed in Tombstone and was pleased to learn that it showed a high ore content of gold and silver. The entire family immediately filed mining claims, and Jimmie Pearce was back in the mining business, this time as an owner. He named his mine the Commonwealth, and word of his find quickly attracted a flood of new residents to the area.
However, Jimmie Pearce did not remain in the mining business for long. He sold the Commonwealth Mine for $250,000 to John Brockman, but his wife insisted on a clause in the contract guaranteeing her the right to run a boardinghouse beside the mine.
A post office opened in March 1896, and businesses soon followed, including the Soto Brothers & Renaud General Store, which still stands today. Listed on the National Register of Historic Buildings, the old structure has been lovingly restored, providing a highly accurate view of the past.
Peak production at the Commonwealth Mine was quickly reached in 1896, but the mine continued to operate for years. Other businesses included a school, hotels, several saloons, and a motion-picture theater. Many of the town’s early buildings were transported over the mountains from Tombstone. The population of Pearce increased to 1500 residents.
Pearce, like other mining towns, wasn’t always peaceful. Miners and cowboys frequented the new boomtown. Though not as lawless as Tombstone, Pearce needed a constable and, in 1896, hired George Bravin, who hired a tough deputy named Burton Alvord. At that time, Alvord still had a reputation as a fearless lawman. Later, Alvord joined up with Billy Stiles, and the two formed the Alvord-Stiles Gang, robbing trains throughout Arizona Territory and often using Pearce as their headquarters.
In Pearce, the new Commonwealth mine owner, John Brockman, built a 200-stamp mill. With the rampant thievery throughout the territory, the mine deliberately formed their gold bars so heavy that they could not be carried out on horseback. The stamp mill burned to the ground in 1900, but another was soon built. Brockman operated the mine for two more years before selling it in 1902. In 1904, a cave-in caused the mine to shut down temporarily. A cyanide plant was erected the following year, and another fortune was made extracting the tailings.
The Great Depression took its toll, and in the early 1930s, the mine closed, and the railroad pulled up its tracks. Over the years, the Commonwealth Mine was one of the richest in Arizona, producing over 15 million dollars in Gold.
In the meantime, Pearce became a ghost town. Only a few residents remain in the area, and most of its buildings are gone, but Pearce hangs on. The old post office, decommissioned in the late 1960s, is now a private residence. Another business, Old Pearce Pottery, operates out of another historic building. The area is seeing a rejuvenation as retirees and others are attracted to the climate and are buying real estate.
Several other remains from the past can be seen, including a school, the old jail, several ruins and foundations, and the Pearce cemetery west of town on Middlemarch Road. This historic path crosses the Dragoon Mountains into Tombstone for those seeking a more adventurous trek. The old road was once commonly used by soldiers between Fort Bowie and Fort Huachuca in the 1870s and 1880s.
To access the Ghost Town Trail from Tombstone, take the well-marked turnoff for Gleeson Road heading east and follow for about 15 miles to Gleeson. A mile beyond Gleeson, turn left onto Ghost Town Trail and continue to Courtland and Pearce. Drive northwest from Pearce to reconnect with Interstate 10. Some of the routes are unpaved but suitable for passenger cars.
The Ghost Town Trail offers a poignant journey through Arizona’s mining past. Each stop, from the almost completely vanished Courtland to the still-surviving Pearce, tells a story of dreams, fortunes, and the relentless power of time.