Two Guns, Arizona – Death By Highway
Arizona’s vast landscapes hold secrets etched in time, and among them lies Two Guns, a ghost town in Coconino County. Situated approximately 30 miles east of Flagstaff, this relic of the past sits on the eastern rim of Canyon Diablo, a dramatic geological feature that has shaped the region’s history. Two Guns, Arizona, once thrived as a bustling tourist stop along the iconic Route 66. The promise of roadside attractions and the allure of the American West drew travelers in droves. However, the relentless march of progress, in the form of Interstate 40, ultimately led to its decline, leaving behind a haunting collection of ruins and whispered stories.
Before the rumble of engines and the promise of cheap gasoline, the land surrounding Two Guns resonated with the presence of Native Americans. Archaeological evidence suggests habitation dating back to between 1050 and 1600 A.D. These early inhabitants left their mark on the land, their lives intertwined with the dramatic landscape of Canyon Diablo. The canyon itself, a deep and imposing gorge, served as both a barrier and a focal point, influencing settlement patterns and shaping the interactions of those who called this area home.
The arrival of American settlers brought a new chapter to the story of Two Guns, Arizona. Traders and mountain men established a trading post known as the Canyon Lodge, fostering a relationship with the local Navajo people. This period of relative harmony was disrupted in 1864 when the U.S. Cavalry began forcibly relocating members of the Navajo tribe to a reservation at Fort Sumner, New Mexico, an event known as the "Long Walk." The Navajo endured four years of imprisonment before being allowed to return to their ancestral lands in 1868. The trauma of this experience left an indelible scar, and many returned to Canyon Diablo, their connection to the land unbroken.
The landscape surrounding Two Guns was also the scene of intense conflict between the Navajo and their long-standing enemies, the Apache. For years, skirmishes and raids punctuated their relationship, marked by cycles of violence and retribution. A particularly brutal episode occurred in 1878 when a group of Apache warriors attacked a Navajo camp, killing all but three young girls who were taken as prisoners. In response, Navajo warriors tracked the Apache to a cave, where they sought refuge. The Navajo warriors ignited sagebrush fires at the cave entrance, suffocating those trapped inside and killing any who attempted to escape. Forty-two Apache warriors perished in this massacre, and the site became known as "Death Cave," a chilling reminder of the intertribal conflict that once raged in the region.
Even notorious figures of the Old West sought refuge near Two Guns. During the winter of 1879-80, Billy the Kid and his outlaw gang reportedly hid in the ruins of a stone house and corral on the west rim of Canyon Diablo, across from the future site of the town. The rugged terrain and remote location provided an ideal hideout for those seeking to evade the law, adding another layer to the area’s already colorful history.
As white settlers continued to arrive, they recognized the strategic importance of the area as a crossing point over Canyon Diablo. Initially, wagons traversed the landscape, followed by the advent of motor cars. In 1880, about three miles north of present-day Two Guns, the railroad town of Canyon Diablo was established. Known for its lawlessness and rough-and-tumble atmosphere, Canyon Diablo quickly earned a reputation as one of the wildest towns in the West. However, its boom was short-lived, and it eventually faded into obscurity, becoming a ghost town even before Two Guns began to rise.
The early 20th century saw further development in the area. By 1912, homesteaders were staking claims, and the establishment of the National Old Trails Road brought increased traffic and accessibility. A concrete bridge was constructed across Canyon Diablo in 1917, opening the road to even more travelers.
In 1914, Daniel B. Oldfield and his wife established a trading post by the side of the new road. Their square stone house served as a hub for travelers, prospectors, cowboys, sheepherders, and Native Americans. The Canyon Lodge, as it became known, offered essential supplies and services, laying the foundation for the future development of the area.
The 1920s witnessed further expansion. Earle and Louise Cundiff purchased land and constructed a large stone building on the west side of the canyon, also operating it as a trading post. By 1922, they had added a restaurant and gasoline pumps, catering to the growing number of motorists traveling along the National Old Trails Road.
The individual most closely associated with the name Two Guns is Henry Miller. In 1925, Miller, claiming to be a full-blooded Apache, leased land from the Cundiffs. Described as an eccentric hermit, Miller was said to be wild, violent, and hostile to visitors. He adopted the persona of "Chief Crazy Thunder," wearing his long hair braided and crafting a captivating, if somewhat unsettling, image. With the help of local Hopi Indians, Miller began constructing pens for a zoo, intending to house mountain lions and other desert animals. He also built a long stone structure that served as the entrance to the zoo, incorporating a small store and living quarters. Controversially, Miller sold the skeletal remains of the Apache who had died in Death Cave to tourists, capitalizing on the dark history of the area. It was after Miller’s arrival that the town became known as Two Guns.
The following year, the National Old Trails Road became part of the famed Route 66, promising even greater prosperity for Two Guns. However, Miller’s tenure was destined to be short-lived and filled with drama. On March 3, 1926, a dispute erupted between Miller and Earle Cundiff over the lease agreement. The argument escalated, and Miller shot and killed Cundiff. Despite the fact that Cundiff was unarmed, Miller was acquitted of murder, a decision that remains a subject of debate and speculation to this day.
Following the acquittal, Miller returned to Two Guns, but his troubles were far from over. He was reportedly mauled by two mountain lions, bitten by a poisonous Gila monster, and fell ill. He eventually left Two Guns, taking with him a considerable amount of silver, turquoise jewelry, and merchandise.
In the fall of 1929, Miller’s store burned down, and Mrs. Cundiff constructed a large frame building to continue operating the trading post and tourist stop. However, Miller soon reappeared, claiming that the land was rightfully his, sparking a series of costly court actions that ultimately resulted in Mrs. Cundiff spending $15,000 to clear the title. In 1934, she opened a Texaco service station along a new alignment of Route 66, further cementing Two Guns‘ position as a roadside oasis.
Over time, additional small buildings were constructed, housing a restaurant and an Indian curio shop operated by others, including Hopi Chief Joe Secakuku. Hopi Indians were hired to build a pueblo-style house on the canyon rim directly above the cave. For a small fee, tourists could tour the Hopi house and purchase Indian products and other souvenirs.
Two Guns flourished as a tourist destination along Route 66, offering a range of amenities, including a gas station, overnight accommodations, a cafe, and a souvenir shop. The zoo was reopened, featuring mountain lions, panthers, and bobcats. The animals were housed in distinctive kiln-like structures made of brick, mortar, and chicken wire, built along the canyon rim.
The construction of Interstate 40 proved to be the death knell for Two Guns, as it was for many other roadside attractions along Route 66. Bypassed by the new highway, the town’s lifeblood was cut off. Despite numerous attempts to revive it, Two Guns remains largely abandoned today, a haunting reminder of a bygone era.
Visitors to the site can still see the remains of the old bridge that crossed Canyon Diablo when it was part of the National Trail and Route 66. The ruins of the zoo and several abandoned buildings stand as silent witnesses to the town’s rise and fall. Two Guns is located just off I-40 at exit 230, between Flagstaff and Meteor City. After exiting, a left turn crosses I-40 south toward the site.